A bright representative of evergreen coniferous trees is part of the Pine family. Siberian cedar (lat. Pínus sibírica) also known as “Siberian cedar pine”. The culture is widespread in Eastern and Western Siberia. Distinctive feature coniferous tree - a massive, multi-tiered crown with large branches. The whorled structure (a special arrangement of branches in which several leaves emerge from each shoot) makes the plant especially attractive. The slow development of the crop is caused by a short period of vegetative growth - only 45 days a year. At favorable conditions pine lives up to 800 years. An adult representative often reaches about 40 meters in length. There are known cases when the diameter of Siberian cedar was more than 3 meters. You don't have to be afraid to grow a bulky, giant tree at home. Breeders have bred no less useful dwarf subspecies of the crop.
Low-growing varieties of Siberian pine have been bred for growing at home.
There are several reasons for growing a coniferous tree at home:
- The special decorative value of evergreen culture.
- Nutritious and healthy fruits.
- The healing effect of nuts and pine needles.
Location
The tree has a very branched crown. Therefore, you should choose a free, spacious area of the site.
The minimum distance between green spaces must be at least six meters. You should retreat 3 meters from the foundation of buildings. Dwarf representatives can be planted a little closer.
Optimal lighting
Siberian pine prefers brightly lit areas. Young representatives can tolerate semi-shaded areas well. The plant is frost-resistant and not demanding on microclimatic conditions.
Watering rules
Siberian pine pine is a moisture-loving crop. During the summer season, wood absorbs a lot of moisture. Therefore, during the hot months, it is necessary to water the plant regularly as the soil dries out.
In autumn, in preparation for the dormant phase, watering should be reduced. You can notice a slowdown in the process of draining the earthen clod.
During the winter dormant period, a plant planted in a container practically does not need watering. The soil mixture in the container may dry out due to low air humidity. Trees consume moisture from the ground in very small quantities.
Siberian cedar is a moisture-loving crop. But excessive soil moisture or stagnant water will destroy the pine.
Excessive soil moisture can destroy the plant.
Cedar pine in winter
The absence of a dormant stage leads to slower growth in the next growing season. Therefore, for several months a year it is necessary to provide the coniferous representative with cooler climatic conditions.
Siberian cedar, planted in a container, can be transferred to a glazed loggia, cellar, veranda or winter garden. Water only as needed. With the onset of spring warmth, it is necessary to gradually move the flowerpot to a sunny place.
How to properly transplant Siberian cedar
Seedlings with a closed root system should be replanted permanently immediately after the morning frosts have subsided - early spring. You can also plant purchased Siberian cedar in the fall, immediately after the end of the growing season.
The ideal age for replanting pine is about 5 years. The height of the trunk is no more than one meter. The diameter of the stem is about two centimeters. When planting, there is a chance to keep the root system intact.
With large representatives of conifers it is much more difficult. Replanting an adult cedar is usually done in winter. In the cold season, you can dig up a large earthen ball and save most of the rhizome. As a rule, root system cedar is severely damaged.
The ideal age of pine for replanting is 5 years.
During the recovery period, the plant releases a component that attracts pests. If the crop is severely weakened, bark beetles can penetrate under the bark and lay larvae. It will not be possible to save the pine tree. Therefore, replanting an overgrown cedar is extremely risky.
Before planting you should:
- Weed out the weeds and thoroughly cultivate the soil around the planting site.
- Dig a hole suitable size. It is necessary to focus on the size of the root system with a lump of earth. The depth of the hole should exceed the size of the cedar roots by 40%.
- The bottom of the hole must be thoroughly loosened.
- Lay out drainage in a thick layer (about 15 cm). Crushed stone, gravel, shells, and bottle caps can be used as materials.
- The ideal composition of the soil mixture is greenhouse soil with peat and leaf humus. Organic ingredients can be added. A pine forest bedding is ideal.
- For subsequent tying of the seedling, a wooden support should be driven into the hole.
How to trim correctly
To naturally form a dense, even crown, the plant should be allowed to grow freely in an open area. Coniferous plant unpretentious. Therefore, there is no need to further intervene in the development process. It is enough to periodically clean the conifer from damaged and dead branches.
If the plant is used as an element garden design, you can give the crown the appropriate shape. It is not recommended to prune plants younger than five years old. Best time year for pruning - early spring.
It is advisable to use sharp garden pruners. The instrument should be thoroughly disinfected with alcohol. The affected areas must be treated with a healing component (var).
Cedar pine is an excellent representative of the flora for creating dwarf miniatures.
Amazing miniature of Siberian pine.
Using oriental techniques you can create a skillful bonsai. The pliability and elegance of the trunk and shoots contribute to the design of a smaller, exact copy of a coniferous tree.
Features of planting a tree can be found in the video:
Cedar pine in open ground
For growing on outdoors it is enough to provide the minimum conditions:
- open area;
- uniform sunlight;
- loamy and loose soil;
- lack of groundwater. Often young conifers develop well on the site, but adult representatives die. The main reason is that the root system is damaged by the accumulation of liquid in top layer soil.
Siberian cedar is a very sustainable crop. The plant is not afraid of severe frosts.
Siberian pine is a frost-resistant plant.
In winter, there is no need to cover the plant with mulch and protective material. In open soil, cedar does not need regular feeding and pruning.
Planting cedar at home
flower pot
The coniferous plant has a large and branched root system. Therefore, the choice of container should be taken seriously. For young cedars, it is advisable to choose small containers with drainage holes and side openings for air circulation.
The kit must include a tray to collect excess liquid. As the root system and crown develop, it is necessary to use a larger container.
Ideal soil
Cedar pine prefers loose and fertile soil. It is not recommended to use mixtures containing peat for growing. The multicomponent fossil causes rotting of the root system.
To protect the plant from pests, you should add some oxidizing agents to the soil. You can use a natural solution citric acid and pine needles.
Feeding cedar
During planting, a biogrowth stimulator should be added to the soil. The perfect combination components contained in the drug "Kornevin".
The plant does not require regular feeding. It is advisable not to experiment with chemicals. Preparations for indoor crops can harm conifers. Products with natural composition have been developed specifically for growing cedar.
To feed cedar you should use a special vermicompost.
Vermicompost "Kedronik", made from waste pine nuts, is ideal for cedar wood. The fertilizer also includes Siberian soil. The drug can not only be applied to the soil, but also sprayed onto cedar needles. It has a particularly effective effect after the appearance of yellowness on the leaves.
Cedar diseases and main pests
Bark beetles
Most often, cedar trees are affected by the common engraver. Mass attacks of conifers begin at the end of May. Spotting pests is quite easy. Beetles gnaw small holes in the bark.
The cedar will produce resin to control pests on its own. Inaction will result in females entering the stem. Once the larvae are deposited, it is almost impossible to save the tree.
As preventive measures, you can use systemic insecticides, inject into the trunk with biological protection agents, and also promptly clean the crop from affected areas.
Massive attacks of bark beetles can destroy a pine tree.
Pine Hermes
At the initial stage, all affected areas can be collected and destroyed mechanically. If the insect population has covered the entire plant, it is necessary to treat the soil with “Aktara” and spray “Decis” or “Iskra” on the cedar. Spraying should be repeated after a month. You will need to continue the procedure until the pests are completely eliminated.
Pine is also affected by scale insects, moths and aphids. Systemic insecticides should be used for treatment.
Pests rarely appear on a healthy plant. Therefore, you should purchase biological preparations in advance to strengthen the immunity of the coniferous tree.
Pine needle rust
A characteristic disease for warm and humid climates. Yellow marks appear on the tree. After some time, bubble spots form white coating. Fungal cells infect all parts of the tree. On initial stage Once infected, the needles will turn yellow and begin to fall off.
As a rule, infection occurs from sow thistle and coltsfoot. It is necessary to destroy all plants on the site that contribute to the spread of fungal spores. Affected branches must be removed and destroyed. Cleaning the tree will help prevent further spread.
Tar crayfish or seryanka
The crop should be immediately cleared of areas infested with spores. For prevention, it is necessary to clean the plant from dry branches and stems with cancerous ulcers. Inactivity attracts many pests. A weakened pine tree may die from insect damage.
Allergic manifestations
Pine nuts are very useful product. People with individual intolerance may experience an allergic reaction and anaphylactic shock.
It is quite difficult to determine the relationship with the cedar fruit. A reaction to peeled nuts may only appear after two days. The first sign is the appearance of a metallic taste.
It's not just fruits that can cause a reaction. The so-called wood allergy affects the upper respiratory tract. Redness and itching appear on the skin and mucous membranes. Once characteristic symptoms occur, direct contact with the crop should be avoided.
Reproduction options
There are several ways to grow pine. To grow coniferous cedar, you need to purchase seeds or seedlings from a garden nursery.
Planting cedars from seeds
Long term growing method. Planting material must be treated with potassium permanganate. A mixture of coarse sand should be used as primer. The nuts should be placed in the holes and sprinkled with a small layer of sawdust. To stimulate growth, you can place the container with the seeds in a cold room.
Periodically you need to moisten the soil.
Germination of Siberian cedar seeds.
After the first shoots appear, you can move the container to a warm room. After strengthening the sprouts, young cedar trees should be planted in separate containers.
You can experiment and sow treated seeds in open ground. But this is very risky. Often the planting material does not germinate.
Growing cedar seedlings
It is preferable to buy seedlings with a closed root system. The ideal age for planting material is three-year-old trees. The average size of a pine tree should be from thirty centimeters to three meters, depending on the subspecies.
Flowering and fruiting of cedar pine
Cedars do not produce inflorescences. Nuts are formed as seeds.
You will be able to try nuts from your own cedar tree only after 60 years.
Adult crops begin to bear fruit only at the age of 60 years. To speed up the process, you can pin the tree. The ripening process of cones occurs in the fall. As they form, most of the fruit falls to the ground.
How to choose Siberian cedar
Planting material should be purchased from nurseries specializing in coniferous trees. Siberian cedar seedlings 15-25 cm high can be purchased for 50 rubles. Grown seedlings in a container with a closed root system sell for an average of 1,500 rubles. Seeds of Siberian cedar "Shepard" are in the catalogs of online stores. The cost of one package is 42 rubles.
Hello, reader!
With this article I am opening a new section – trees. I want to tell you how to grow cedar (officially cedar pine) from a nut yourself. Cedar- an unusual tree, everything in it is healing - the bark, the needles, the wood, and, of course, the fruits - cedar cones.
Growing cedar from a nut
Methods for obtaining a seedling
- Sow in the ground in autumn;
- Sow in spring;
- Plant in cups at home.
I'll tell you more about everyone. But first you need to prepare the nuts for planting - awaken the sprouts. This is called a terrible word - stratification .
Setting the stage
Now we prepare the ground for planting. Where do cedars grow? In the taiga. The soil there is rotted pine needles and leaves. Therefore, we must add soil from a coniferous forest (from under pines, spruces, cedars) to the soil where our cedars will grow, otherwise they may simply not grow.
Landing
The nuts are ready, the soil is prepared - you can finally start planting. I tried all the planting methods, I’ll tell you about them all in detail.
Plant in the ground in the fall
The easiest way - 2 in 1 - is to plant in the ground in the fall. It’s not for nothing that it’s called “2 in 1” - we go through stratification, and the nuts are already in place (we’re waiting for the shoots!) The shoots will appear somewhere in early June. We look after a regular garden bed: weeding, watering, loosening. To reduce all these procedures, we mulch small cedars.
Of course, not all nuts will sprout, some will die, others may sprout in another year, keep this in mind. Of those that have sprouted, not all will become trees - they still need to survive summer and winter. Conclusion: plant more nuts!
Planting in spring
We plant in spring in April-May after stratification. We choose beautiful, healthy, already hatched nuts. We remove spoiled ones (black, moldy). We expect shoots in June-July. This year I planted half a cup of nuts this way - not a single one sprouted!
Why? They went through the stratification well - they sat in a snowdrift for 3 months and when planting, the nuts had already hatched. It rained all summer and it was cold - I'm afraid they rotted. And I didn’t prepare the soil for them in the garden (I learned about pine needles myself in the summer!), I planted them in loam - this is the result - the sprouts couldn’t break through the heavy, rain-beaten soil. Of course, I could describe how well everything has sprouted for me and is growing by leaps and bounds. And soon I will be collecting cones from cedar trees in buckets. But I want you not to repeat my mistakes, but to do it better and more correctly. So that your cedars will definitely come up.
In cups
We got to the third method - put in cups. Just pick everything here flower pot approximately 1-1.5 liters, prepare the soil and plant the nut to a depth of 3-5 cm. Water regularly, but do not overwater. My experience of growing cedar at home was also unsuccessful. Kedrick sprouted, but then withered - I'm afraid I flooded it. More home I haven’t tried planting, I sow directly into the garden bed. But this good way for those who live in an apartment. Not everyone has a vegetable garden at hand. What I wish for everyone!
Caring for young cedars
I think the landing has been sorted out. It is important to preserve the seedlings after appearing! If you sowed nuts in a sunny place, then transplant the cedars into the shade or cover them from direct sun. Of course, it is better to immediately choose a suitable place, but just know that while they are small, they tolerate the transplant normally.
In dry weather, be sure to water. Imagine for yourself how they grow in the Siberian taiga. High humidity + shade. While the sprouts are small, cover them with leaves for the winter.
Cedars grow very slowly. They will continue to grow until they are 80 years old. Well, your children will probably try the first cones. Although I read that the first cones grew at the age of 25, but officially after 35-50 years. But still, cedar must be planted on the site. It’s great if you care for and cherish him from birth. He will respond to your concern. Believe me!
Now is autumn - it's time to plant cedars, and any other trees too. Today we will tell you exactly how to grow cedars from pine nuts, because... Many people already know what the CEDAR tree is for our Earth, for humans, and in general for the entire Universe.
It is best to plant cedars in the fall - this is natural for them, because... In the cold winter, they need to go through the so-called stratification - this is when the nuts freeze, fall asleep, and in the spring they awaken and sprout.
Cedars do not like waterlogging, but prefer well-drained soils, i.e. those where water does not stagnate. Therefore, if water may stagnate in the place where you are going to plant pine nuts, we recommend that you sprinkle the bed with sand on top (about 1 cm thick, but then you need to reduce the depth of planting the nuts).
You need to plant nuts to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. It is not necessary to make holes at all - just take a nut and stick it into the ground with your finger, pressing it a little). It is better to plant with the pointed tip down.
If the situation does not allow planting cedars in the fall, then you can plant them in the spring, but to do this, the nuts must lie in the refrigerator or in the cellar all winter to undergo artificial stratification. How we did it: at the beginning of winter we ordered a lot of pine nuts from Siberia, mixed them with wet sand, put it all in boxes and put it in the refrigerator (we sewed it empty 🙂) There they lay with us until spring, in the spring we planted them in the ground.
The cedars sprout in an unusual and very cute way)) From the nut, the root first goes down, and then a sprout begins to hatch from the root, lifting the nut to the top, i.e. small green sprouts with nuts on top will be visible from the ground. And birds really like it, especially crows. Therefore, in the spring, when the cedars begin to sprout (or even immediately after planting), be sure to cover them with branches, otherwise they will be pecked by their feathered friends.
You need to find it or make it yourself wooden box with a side height of about 25 cm, there must be holes at the bottom for the free passage of water. They are placed in the box sawdust (any, but ideally, of course, pine), mixed with pine needles.
Stick in pine nuts at 0.5-1 cm. They can be planted often, at a distance of 1 cm from each other. (cedars grow best in such an environment, so don’t worry, there’s enough for them there). We pour peat 1 cm thick on top (you don’t have to do this, but without it you will have to water much more often in the summer).
The box stands outside in winter.
In spring, planting must be protected from birds with something (branches, rigid mosquito netting, etc.).
Cedar trees cannot be replanted in the first year. The transplant is performed at 2-3 years of age. When digging up small cedars using the latter planting method, their roots are not damaged or torn off.
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Here's what experienced people advise:
To begin with, cedar seeds need to be saturated with moisture. At the same time, wash out substances from the nuts that prevent their germination. Pour pine nuts into a bucket or basin, and pour hot water. Not with boiling water, of course. So that it doesn't burn your hand.
After an hour, when the nuts are a little wet, we’ll wash them a little. Just three of them in the water, among themselves.
A certain amount of resin and substances that interfere with germination will pass into the water. How black it will become - you have to see it!
We wash the pine nuts and refill them warm water- and leave it for a couple of hours. Then wash the nuts and change the water again. Thus, we soak the cedar seeds for about a day. By this time, most of the mature nuts will sink to the bottom of the bucket.
Well, we have done the preliminary preparation of cedar seeds.
Wet, saturated cedar seeds - spread out glass jars. The size of the jar depends on the number of cedar seeds. The jar can be filled halfway with seeds. Maximum - 2/3. It's best to take a screw-on jar. After wrapping the lid, we make holes in it, using a knife or a nail, to allow air to enter.
Packed in this way, cedar seeds are ready for stratification. Now we just have to find a place for their stratification, with a suitable temperature. I usually stratify the nuts in the cellar. The temperature there remains around 0°C. You can also stratify pine nuts in the refrigerator. But the effect will be worse.
If pine nuts are stratified early, you can hide a jar in the garden. The main thing is to cover it with some foliage. Direct sun rays- can ruin everything.
In general, stratification occurs at temperatures from +3 to −1. Freezing, even strong, is tolerated well by cedar seeds - with gradual thawing.
Don't forget that pine nuts are a favorite treat for mice. They won't be able to get the nuts through a metal lid... But mice can easily gnaw through a plastic lid. Such lids are definitely not suitable for us.
After 2-3 months of such stratification, pine nuts can already be germinated. Or you can leave them until spring, for sowing in the garden.
Even correctly stratified cedar seeds do not germinate at the same time. And all the seeds will definitely not germinate. For example, from 100 cedar nuts, we are guaranteed to get 20-30 cedars. In principle - not so little.
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When replanting, you need to take care of the root system, make sure that all the roots go underground and do not bend or break anywhere. It is necessary to replant with a clod of earth in which the cedar was sitting, since it contains friendly microorganisms for the tree and they will increase the chances of survival (the exception is the method with sawdust and pine needles - in this case the roots remain bare, but you can still grab a little sawdust and pine needles into the planting hole).
To drain and improve soil aeration, it is very good to add a little sand, sawdust, pine litter or pine nut shells to the hole where the seedling will be transplanted. This is especially recommended for clay soil.
To improve the survival rate of cedar seedlings, it is good to use mulching: mown grass, deciduous or coniferous litter, the same pine nut shells, tree bark or moss brought from the forest are laid on the ground around the trunk. Mulch prevents drying out of the soil, prevents abundant grass growth, creates a local microclimate, creates conditions for the development of worms under it and gradually forms material for fertilizer by winter.
You can also feed the seedling with natural immunostimulants: infusion of nettle and horsetail, leave for a week in a barrel, 1:1 water and plants, dilute with water when feeding 1:20. Nutrients and simply information from herbs play a role here.
And one more thing. Very important. Cedars really need mycorrhiza for survival and growth, i.e. mycelium. Mycelium, which maintains symbiosis with a tree and increases the area for collecting water and useful substances 10 times. What you can do:
You can bring forest litter with ready-made mycorrhiza.
But it’s better to grow your own mycorrhiza on the spot: multiply the fungal spores and “sow”, or rather, spill them into the soil.
To do this, old mushrooms are soaked for a day in warm water, and then the place where the cedars will grow is watered with this infusion, after which this place must be kept constantly moist (but not flooded with water). Mycorrhiza grows from fungal spores.
Under coniferous trees boletus, porcini mushrooms, green rows, and milk mushrooms grow. Under the birch trees there are boletus, porcini mushrooms, russula, and milk mushrooms.
Once porcini mushroom, milk mushrooms form mycorrhiza with both coniferous and deciduous trees, which means that old milk mushrooms and porcini mushrooms collected in birch groves should also be used to form mycorrhiza in places where cedars and other coniferous trees are planted.
Spilling the soil with an infusion of mushrooms is not only a help to the trees, but also a mushroom harvest within 2 years. And after 3 years already good harvest. This is how mushrooms are grown))
Cedars love partial shade, so it would be good to plant them near the “nanny” - this can be any bush or tree (any tree except oak and some exotic ones - the cedar will outgrow, so don’t worry about it). They are needed for protection from the sun, as well as wind, and to retain moisture.
But the most important thing when planting cedars and other trees is your thought! If your thought is harmonious, if you plant a tree with pure thoughts: selflessly, for the happiness of the tree itself, the happiness of Mother Earth and future descendants, then firstly, the survival rate of such a tree will increase many times over, and secondly, it will strengthen that thought and the energy with which you planted it. Therefore, try to plant trees, and especially cedars, with good mood, smile and joy, and then there will be more of this on earth.
Happy landing!
Cedar forests are the beauty and pride of Siberia.
Cedar - majestic and very decorative tree, long-lived among local tree species. It is believed that cedar begins to bear fruit very late, after 50 years of life, but in cultivated plantations tended by humans, this period is often reduced several times.
How to grow cedar from a nut Pollination occurs with the help of the wind, so cedars are planted in groups on a site. To ensure that cedars grown from seeds are well pollinated in the future and produce full-fledged seeds, it is recommended to take cones for sowing from different trees, and even better, from different places.
The cones ripen for a year and a half, ripen in September, after which they are easily knocked down by the wind. In order for cedar seeds to germinate well, you need to collect only mature cones, no earlier than September. Industrial harvesting with the help of “beater” logs often begins long before the final ripeness of the nut, and they often shell it after “bathing” in boilers with hot water, so that the resin does not interfere. What kind of germination is there...
Freshly collected seeds can be immediately sown in a garden bed, where they will sprout in spring and then grow for 2-3 years. Planting depth is about 2 cm, the distance between grooves is about 20 cm, between seeds is 2-3 cm. The bed must be mulched - with pine litter or pine nut shells, as in my version in the photo. It is precisely this kind of sowing that gives the most best result and excellent germination, adaptation of cedar trees to soil, climate and local conditions.
There are two important conditions successful growth and development of seedlings, especially relevant in regions with hot and active sun and dry winds. Firstly, crops in open areas need to be slightly shaded. Usually it is enough not to weed out all the grass, leaving the “scenes” between the beds and some herbaceous plants on the ridge (but don’t overdo it - it’s bad if in your “shading” you don’t see the cedars themselves). Secondly, cedar is a rather moisture-loving tree, sensitive to a lack of both soil and air moisture. Therefore, think about how to provide the seedlings with sufficient moisture - you can sow them in the partial shade of other plantings or buildings, or turn on the sprinkler system during drought. Plantings should overwinter under snow. In places where snow blows, provide snow retention.
How to grow cedar from a nut In the first years, cedar grows very slowly - the growth is only a few centimeters. In the third year of life in the spring, you need to place your pets in pots with a volume of at least 0.5 liters with a clod of earth, place them or dig them in the shade and make sure that the soil in the pots does not dry out.
Next spring, plant cedars on permanent place. If the soil is poor and dry, you need to add leaf humus, sawdust, forest litter, and peat. Water the planted cedar with infusions of mature mushrooms and forest litter. As you know, most trees grow much better in symbiosis with mycelium, and cedar is no exception. The four-year-old seedling reaches a height of 15 cm.
Until about 10 years old, cedars need attention, communication and supervision, then their growth accelerates sharply, and they begin to give back, to “thank” the person who raised them.
Let's all give beautiful cedar gardens to our descendants!
Who doesn’t want to have a self-grown evergreen tree at home! We are, of course, talking about the famous Siberian cedar. To some, this task may seem difficult to accomplish, but this is wrong. With minimal knowledge and funds, you can grow a cedar tree literally on your windowsill. But the question of how best to do this will be answered by this material.
So, it should be noted that we are not talking about the classic cedar from the cedar family, but about its “colleague” - cedar pine. Despite the visual and other similarities, it is still different types plants. Take, for example, the notorious nuts: in classic cedar they are inedible and dangerous to health. But it is used in perfumery and medicine essential oil, not cedar pine oil.
First of all, it is necessary to pay due attention to the selection of seed and planting material.
First, you need to take into account that the most suitable material for growing cedar is a cedar cone with the largest possible scales. As a rule, it contains higher quality and more viable seeds. Each bud should be checked for foreign matter or odor. So, if pronounced moldiness is felt, then such seeds are unlikely to produce at least some harvest.
It is important to know that pine cones that are most suitable for planting appear on sale only in the fall. Only at this time of year they are sure to be fresh.
The seeds are extracted very simply: the cone is doused with boiling water, causing it to open quickly. In this case, all the “by-product” material remaining during the extraction of seeds can also be useful.
From the resulting scales, many experts make healing decoctions and tinctures.
High-quality cedar seeds do not require any specific processing, but their stratification is quite troublesome. It occurs through the implementation of the following mandatory points:
- The seeds must be soaked in heated water for three days, and the water must be replaced with fresh water daily;
- empty seeds need to be sifted out every day. It is very simple to identify them - they will appear on the surface;
- after three days, the prepared seeds are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
- then the seeds are immersed in a fungicide solution for at least three hours;
The above procedures represent hot stratification. But it is also necessary to perform cold processes. So, when performing cold stratification, it is necessary to perform the following mandatory manipulations:
- pre-purchased fine sand needs to be properly calcined in the oven. Then, after allowing it to cool, prepared cedar seeds are added there. Sawdust and peat are also added to the mixture in a ratio of 1:3;
- when the mixture becomes homogeneous, it is poured into a “breathing” bag, which, in turn, is placed in wooden box or a box. Ventilation holes must be made in such a homemade container, otherwise the seeds will die;
- then the container is placed on the lower tier of the refrigerator, or in the cellar (but not in the freezer!) for three months.
In this case, every two weeks the mixture needs to be ventilated and moistened, monitoring the condition of the seeds. It is quite normal if some of them rot. Then they need to be removed and the sand replaced with fresh sand.
It is best to start sowing in May or April.
Accelerated seed processing
For those who do not have time to spend a long time preparing seeds for planting, we can suggest the following method. It also involves doing the following:
- Every two days, pour new hot water over the seeds. This must be done within 8 days;
- place the seeds in a sand-peat mix;
- within a month, the seeds are regularly moistened and kept at home;
- All this is stored at a temperature no higher and no lower than 0 degrees in the refrigerator. At the same time, the condition of the seeds must also be carefully monitored.
How to carry out correct planting at home?
The final stage is transplanting the prepared seedlings. Unfortunately, many fail at this stage. However, considering the following useful tips, can be avoided typical mistakes, and therefore achieve the desired result.
So, seedlings need to be illuminated most of the day with special lamps at a temperature no higher than 10 degrees. Failure to comply with this condition threatens the death of newly emerged shoots.
It is also necessary to regularly expose plants to the cold so that they develop a kind of immunity.
And the last piece of advice: cedar is incredibly fond of feeding. It is sold in any specialized store and choosing it will not be difficult. But you don’t need to use it so often - a couple of times in the summer and once in the spring.
