Dacha garden classmates in contact. Little garden secrets and tricks for gardeners and gardeners. How to keep carrots until spring

Eustoma will decorate your garden Eustoma is a very attractive plant with bluish, as if covered with wax, leaves and large funnel-shaped simple or double flowers delicate shades. Flowers in eustoma grandiflora reach 7–8 cm in diameter. They come in a variety of colors - white, pink, lilac, purple, white with a colored border, etc. Half-blown flowers look like rosebuds, and when they open completely, they look like large poppies. The stems of the eustoma are strong, 80–90 cm in height, branching strongly from about the middle, so that one plant looks like a whole bunch. On one plant, I once counted 35 buds. All varieties of tall eustoma produce long peduncles and are suitable for cutting. And cut flowers last a long time in a vase. Reproduction Unfortunately, eustoma does not reproduce by dividing the bush - this, as a rule, ends in failure. Since the adult lisianthus does not tolerate the violation of the root system, all resulting divisions may die. Cut eustoma cuttings do not take root either. Therefore, the main and most reliable way reproduction of this beautifully flowering plant - seeds. Terms of sowing seeds Amateur flower growers begin sowing eustoma seeds in winter (December - January). This is due to the fact that eustoma blooms on the 15-20th week after germination, so when spring sowing, it simply does not have time to bloom. I sow eustoma seeds from the end of November until the first days of February. It makes no sense to sow later, I was convinced of this when my first eustoma with buds was covered with snow. So I didn't get to see them bloom. Sowing in detail Eustoma seeds are sown in disposable cups (50 g) with light, moist peat soil, to which sand or perlite is added to make it more loose and breathable. Suitable from purchased substrates ready ground for Saintpaulia. Sow the seeds superficially and slightly press into the soil, after a month and a half it is necessary to make a pick. After sowing, put plastic bags on the cups to create greenhouse effect and you can wait for the emergence of shoots. Lighting and temperature For the first two months after sowing, eustoma seedlings need bright diffused lighting so that they grow compactly and do not stretch. Such lighting can only be created using fluorescent lamps. The optimum temperature for germination of eustoma seeds is 20–25°C; small seedlings appear in 10–15 days; they develop slowly for the first two months. Watering the seedlings For the first two months, the seedlings are practically not watered, because immediately after sowing, put plastic bags on the cups, and the humidity remains under the bags for a long time. As experience shows, eustoma seedlings growing in such greenhouse conditions need watering only once every 2-3 weeks, and even then not plentiful. Small seedlings of eustoma a month and a half after germination must be dived into separate cups. In late February - early March, already grown young plants should be transplanted by transshipment, without destroying the earthen coma, into pots with a diameter of 8 cm. It is imperative to pour a thin layer of drainage from expanded clay, zeolite or just finely chopped foam onto the bottom of the pots. Place the transplanted plants on a well-lit window sill and gradually, removing the bags and accustoming to the sun, adapt the seedlings to a film-free content. So eustoma grows in these pots until the seedlings are planted in the garden. In mid-May, plant seedlings in a flower bed. Eustoma is ready for transplanting when it has 4-8 true leaves. As soon as you plant eustoma in open ground, she immediately starts to grow. So in a month it is no longer recognizable. Fertilizing eustoma should begin after a good rooting of seedlings, about a month after planting. To do this, you can use high-quality mineral fertilizers For flowering plants which are completely soluble in water.

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Classes 101

Irina Kondratieva: My new experience of growing winter garlic. Gardener's World magazine, October 2018, p. 5: "U experienced gardeners there are special secrets of planting garlic. Sometimes these are the smallest details that summer residents do not pay attention to. But in vain. Here is the secret. The garlic cloves are precisely oriented when planting. In diameter, they have the shape of a "skewed" drop - one side is rounded, the other has a rib. The rib is set so that it looks north or south, then the head of garlic grows much larger, because the plane of the leaf fan is located from north to south, and the plant is better illuminated and supplied with food. In the fall of 2018, I planted the rounded side to the south. A fan of leaves in 90% of garlic grew turned exactly to the south! In the remaining 10% of "naughty" garlics, the leaves are not quite oriented, apparently due to the fact that the cloves turned in the ground during rooting. In general, the advice from the magazine works! We are waiting for the harvest!

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Classes 63

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Classes 170

Tomato top dressing recipe Over the summer, I spent three such top dressings. As a result, we got an excellent harvest! The tomato bushes grew powerful, there were no burns on the fruits, the plants easily endured heat and any bad weather. But the biggest surprise was that the tomatoes ripened and delighted us throughout October, despite the rains and cold nights. The end result brought great joy. You will need: Water - 2.5 - 2.7 liters Yeast - 100 g Sugar - 0.5 cups Preparation: Pour 2.5 - 2.7 liters of water without chlorine (settled) into a three-liter jar. I breed yeast in warm water. I add diluted yeast and sugar to the jar. Having covered with gauze, I keep the jar warm, shaking the contents from time to time. The solution (mash) is ready when fermentation is over. I dilute one glass in 10 liters of water and water it under each bush. Good harvest!

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Classes 370

Micronutrient Deficiency Symptoms in Cucumbers The symptoms of each essential nutrient deficiency in cucumbers are very clear and very specific. Magnesium With a lack of magnesium, cucumber leaves become brittle and appear burnt in appearance. They acquire a lighter color (pale green, yellowish), only the veins remain intense green. Nitrogen With a lack of nitrogen, the stems become thin, hard and fibrous. The lower leaves wilt and the upper leaves turn yellow - they become light green. The fruits are small, few of them are formed, cucumbers develop poorly and gain weight slowly. Ambulance- immediate feeding with a solution of mullein per liter per plant. The composition of the top dressing is a liter of mullein per 10 liters of water. Potassium With a lack of potassium, the leaves become dark color and domed shape. They grow small, and along the edge of the sheet you can see a light yellow border. In varieties of cucumbers, the fruits of which have an elongated shape, cucumbers grow round, tapering at the stalk. First aid - a glass of ash in a 10-liter bucket of water, water at the rate of a liter of the mixture per plant. Phosphorus fertilizers for cucumbers With a lack of phosphorus, plants stop growing, flowers and ovaries fall off, leaves become blue-green and small. Excess boron Characterized by the death of living tissue along the edges of the leaf and the domed shape of the leaves. Excess calcium Leaves become brittle and hard. Excess fertilizer It is noteworthy that not only a lack of certain elements is dangerous for cucumbers, but also an excess - in this case, growth also slows down and fruiting weakens.

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Classes 509

Iodine, ammonia, brilliant green - in the garden! Iodine in the garden An ordinary vial of iodine can provide a gardener with more than one great service. Since we all know from childhood that iodine is an excellent antiseptic, it is a sin not to use this property in the prevention of plant diseases, especially all kinds of rot. A solution of 5-10 drops of iodine in ten liters of water is recommended to spray strawberries and strawberries before flowering. This simple procedure will rid it of gray rot and activate vitality. Spraying is carried out 2-3 times with an interval of ten days. With a solution of one drop of iodine per three liters of water, tomato seedlings are watered once in order to increase the productivity and future size of the fruit. After planting seedlings in the ground, you can carry out iodine feeding again by adding three drops of iodine to a bucket of water. Watering rate: a liter under a bush. If you mix 40 drops of iodine in 10 liters of water with a liter of serum and a tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide, it will excellent tool to combat the hated phytophthora. By adding a liter of non-fat milk and 10-12 drops of iodine to 9 liters of water, a solution is obtained that destroys downy mildew on cucumbers. In addition, iodine is part of the means that prevent yellowing of leaves in cucumbers and promote rejuvenation of lashes. FEEDING ONIONS WITH AMMONIA The tips of the onion feathers turned pale, and the feather itself became yellowish?! He lacks nitrogen. A solution of ammonia will help to replenish it. It is done like this: dilute 3 tablespoons of ammonia in 10 liters of water. And in the evening, pour the onion with this solution under the spine. Zelenka in the garden Brilliant green solution is no less famous than iodine, it will also be used in the dacha, no doubt. Zelenka can lubricate the wounds of plants with small pruning or accidental damage instead of garden pitch. 40 drops of brilliant green dissolved in a bucket of water will help rid tomatoes of phytophthora, and cucumbers from powdery mildew. In order not to measure a drop each time, you can dilute a vial of brilliant green in a liter of water, and then add a little bit to the eye for spraying. Spraying cherries with a weak solution of brilliant green helps to better set fruits. Trichopol in the garden "Trichopol" is used as a prophylactic against phytophthora. For this purpose, 1 tablet of "Trichopolum" is dissolved in 1 liter of water and tomatoes are sprayed every two weeks. Aspirin in the garden Aspirin is part of one of the means of combating powdery mildew gooseberries and currants. Potassium permanganate in the garden Potassium permanganate is well known to any gardener and is used everywhere. First of all, in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 grams per 100 ml), it is recommended to treat the seeds before planting in order to destroy possible pathogens that hibernate on the seeds. To this end, the seeds are soaked in the solution for 20 minutes and then dried. If in a bucket of a pink solution of potassium permanganate (3 grams per 10 liters) add boric acid on the tip of a knife, then a good early spring dressing for strawberries, raspberries, currants and gooseberries will come out. This fertilizing option is especially good in areas with sandy soils. 2 teaspoons of potassium permanganate, dissolved in 10 liters of water, will save strawberries from gray rot, if you do not forget to spray the berry after flowering. Potatoes are soaked in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate before planting, as well as seed tubers before being stored. Neither the wireworm nor pathogenic fungi like this treatment. In addition, soil for seedlings is shed with potassium permanganate dissolved in water, boxes, cups and pots are washed in which they plan to grow seedlings or forcing greenery, and greenhouses and greenhouses are treated inside and out to prevent plant diseases. The only thing to keep in mind when using potassium permanganate is that everything is good in moderation. You should not get too carried away with watering "rose water". An excess of manganese in the soil can adversely affect the development of crops.

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Classes 262

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Classes 45

HOW TO HELP ONION FEATHERS GREEN AGAIN It is impossible to imagine the hostess' kitchen without onions. Let tears flow from him like a river, but in many dishes a vegetable is necessary. Therefore, in private plots, onions are grown everywhere. It is planted either for the winter or in the spring. Onions are growing well. Rarely enough is capricious and shows discontent. But oh serious problems signals. Often - yellowing of the pen. What to do if the onion turns yellow? Everything depends on the season. If the onion began to turn yellow in June, for example, then this is bad. The plant is not happy. Or someone wound up in the garden. You need to figure out why the onion feather turns yellow, and take action. If this happens at the end of July, then there is no reason for concern. The harvest has begun to ripen. We'll clean up soon. Provocateurs of yellowness: Why do onion leaves turn yellow? Causes of the problem: a pest has wound up, there is not enough nitrogen in the soil, the plant lacks moisture. Rescue measures will depend on the specific cause. Pests: As a rule, the plant is damaged by flies and secretive proboscis. Onion fly Symptoms of its presence: feathers turn yellow and wither early, a larva can be found in the bulb, the vegetable rots, and the plant is pulled out of the ground very easily, even accidentally during weeding. Pest orientation: 1. Size adult- about seven millimeters. The body is yellowish-gray with dark sparse stripes. 2. The larva is a white worm with cone-like processes at the end. It can be seen in the bulb or in the soil near the plant. The pupae of flies hibernate in the soil. In spring, the pupae wake up. Egg laying coincides with the flowering of dandelions. A week later, the larvae appear. They sneak into the bulb and feed on it. Protective measures: Deep soil digging before sowing; early boarding; neighborhood with carrots, the smell of which repels flies; destruction of infected plants; sprinkling the earth around the onion with ashes mixed with tobacco dust; cleaning from the garden of all plant residues. Onion Stealth Trunk Very dangerous pest, which eats away feathers from the inside. Signs of its invasion: on the leaves - white spots and longitudinal stripes, yellow tips of feathers, twisting and drying of the feather. For young plantings, both adults and larvae are dangerous. How to recognize a pest? 1. An adult beetle is a small insect up to two millimeters long. The body is covered with light scales. The tarsi and elytra are brownish. There is a light stripe at the base of the elytra. 2. The larva is a light worm with a dark head. Hidden trunks hibernate in the ground, grass, shrubs or unharvested onions. They feed on them in the spring, gradually moving to fresh plantings. The female gnaws the onion feather and lays eggs there. After two weeks, the larvae emerge. They eat the internal contents of the feathers, and then descend into the soil to pupate. Protective measures: timely cleaning of plant residues; sowing on ridges remote from the plantings of the previous year; regular loosening of row spacing; cutting off damaged feathers plus loosening. Lack of nitrogen in the soil It can be observed both on dry days and on rainy days. Nitrogen is absorbed in dissolved form, so moisture is needed. At the same time, after heavy rainfall, nitrogenous compounds go too deep, from where the roots of the plant cannot absorb them. To compensate for the deficiency of nitrogen, onions are periodically fertilized with saltpeter, ammonium sulfate, urea or slurry. Lack of moisture During the period of active growth and gaining strength, onions need regular watering. Here are some recommendations: The plant is watered before and after weeding; pour water into the grooves made between the green bushes; with dense plantings, when you have to water over the feathers, use a watering can so that the water does not wash out the soil near the bulb; the need for watering is checked with a finger; if the soil is dry at the depth of the nail, then you need to water it; one and a half months before harvesting, watering is stopped. Feather Rescue: Let's Consider a Few folk methods comprehensive problem solving. That is, such recipes that allow you to immediately eliminate several causes. 1. In ten liters warm water dissolve half a glass of table salt and one ampoule of ammonia. Add three zhmenki ash. Water this composition once every ten days. Until the feathers turn green again. 2. planting material soak in strong potassium permanganate and land in rows sprinkled with salt. 3. For half a bucket of water - half a tablespoon of iodine, two bags of potassium permanganate and five hundred grams of soda. This is a concentrated formula. It must also be diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. And already divorced to water. 4. Sprinkle the aisles with sand mixed with naphthalene.

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Classes 62

Which plants improve the soil Plants that improve the soil In order to improve the chemical and physical properties soil, increase its fertility, resort to phytomelioration. Thanks to the use of phytomeliorants, the soil can be cleared of diseases and pests, reduce the number of weeds, reduce pollution, etc. Phytomeliorants include green manure plants and concentrator plants. Siderates are grown as green manure. This is one of the most effective ways restore soil fertility. Legumes and other plants or their mixtures are used as green manure. Legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen. As a green fertilizer, fodder peas, fodder beans, narrow-leaved lupine, beans, phacelia, seradella, vetch, clover, yellow and white sweet clover are most often used. Green fertilizer is able to heal the soil. In this regard, the most suitable are plants of the cruciferous family - radish, rapeseed, mustard, colza. They suppress the growth of weeds due to their rapid development. In addition, pests such as wireworm do not like mustard, and marigolds and spring rape can destroy several types of nematodes. Also, planting cruciferous plants prevents leaching of mineral elements from the soil, and mustard helps plants get sparingly soluble phosphates. If the soil is light, then phytomeliorants will increase its moisture capacity, and on heavy soil they will improve the water regime. Concentrator plants absorb large quantities certain elements, i.e. are phytoremedians. They are planted in order to cleanse the soil of heavy metals. If you use these plants every year, then the level of heavy elements in the soil will decrease significantly. ➣ Legumes are able to accumulate 6 times more radioactive elements than cereals. To cleanse the soil from radioactive elements, it is necessary to plant barley, alfalfa, mustard, sunflower, dwarf or downy birch. Plants that go to green manure are crushed and then buried in the soil. They are added dropwise during budding and at the beginning of flowering, because it is at this time that a large amount of biologically active substances are present in them. On light soils, plants are planted to a depth of 12-15 cm, on heavy soils - 6-8 cm. Siderates Siderates (green manure) are plants that quickly form a green mass and are a source of organic matter and nitrogen for other plants. Green manure is sown to enrich the soil with nitrogen and organic matter, potassium, calcium, phosphorus, improve soil structure and its physical and physico-chemical properties, increase the activity of beneficial microflora, protect the soil from erosion and blowing, and suppress weed growth. Siderates have a phytosanitary effect, attract beneficial insects due to their bright colors etc. Siderates are plowed into the soil until seeds are formed. In this way, they prevent their self-sowing and turning into weeds, and at the same time the soil receives a supply of certain nutrients. The most commonly planted green manures are: legumes - lupins, beans, soybeans, lentils, seradella, clover, sainfoin, fodder beans, sowing and field peas, alfalfa, sweet clover, spring and winter vetch, sap grass, etc.; cruciferous - mustard, colza, rapeseed, oilseed radish; buckwheat - buckwheat; hydrophiles - phacelia; Compositae - sunflower; cereals - rye, oats, wheat, barley. Principles of sowing green manure Green manure is sown in spring and autumn, before and after planting the main crop. Sow thickly in spring, less often in autumn. If they sow in early spring, then they pick up early ripening cold-resistant plants - oats, mustard, fodder peas. Green manure is plowed 1-2 weeks before planting the main crop. The effectiveness of green manure depends on the age of the plants. Young plants are rich in nitrogen, so after incorporation, the main crop can be planted after 2-4 weeks. It is important to remember that too much green mass should not be closed. Soil preparation The soil for green manure crops should be well prepared. Every year in early May, it is necessary to sow in different areas such early crops as peas, dill, early potatoes, radishes, kohlrabi, lettuce, cauliflower. After harvesting, plant residues need to be embedded in the soil, level the surface and sow green fertilizer, having previously applied 1 bucket of nitroammophoska per 1 weave. If the soils are acidic, then 0.3-0.5 kg of lime is applied per 1 m2 to a depth of 5-7 cm. Seeds are sown randomly, covered with a rake, sprinkled with earth. Some green manure Lupine - a genus of plants of the legume family, is grown for green manure. Lupine is able to accumulate up to 200 kg of nitrogen per 1 ha in the soil. Lupine grows well on the poor acidic soils. The plant is sown in late July - mid-August after harvesting potatoes, cabbage, greens. After lupine, you can grow almost all crops. Seradella sativa is a genus of plants in the legume family. Moisture-loving, grows well on light slightly acidic soils. Seradella is usually sown in early spring as an independent crop or sown with cereals (oats, rye). Sweet clover, burkun - a genus of biennial, sometimes annual plants of the legume family. Sow it in spring, summer or autumn. In crop rotation, it is often sown under the cover of grain crops. Grows well in neutral soil. White mustard is an annual oilseed plant of the Cruciferous family. Grows in almost any soil. The green mass of the plant is mowed when the leaves are fresh and juicy. After planting mustard, the incidence of plants with late blight, rhizoctoniosis, tuber scab, etc. decreases. Also, mustard crops reduce the number of wireworms. ➣ Cruciferous siderats should not be alternated with cruciferous vegetable crops such as radishes, turnips, mustard, cabbage, etc. These plants have common diseases and pests. Oil radish - annual plant cruciferous family, 1.5-2 m high. Radish can be sown with early spring until late autumn. A bag of seeds is mixed with one glass of dry sand and scattered over the site, then harrowed. The plant has phytosanitary properties - it destroys pathogens, suppresses nematodes. Annual sunflower, or oilseed, is an annual plant of the Aster family with a deep root system. The plant produces a lot of compost mass. It grows on any soil with a pH from very acidic (pH4) to alkaline (pH8). Buckwheat - a plant of the Buckwheat family, it is characterized by rapid growth, enriches the soil organic matter, phosphorus and potassium, absorbs organic phosphates well. Buckwheat is the best green manure under fruit trees and bushes. It is recommended to grow on poor, heavy, acidic soils. Precursors Good precursors are useful for all crops. So, cucumber, pepper, cabbage and onion, if grown in one place for 3-4 years, will reduce the yield by 30-50%. When choosing a predecessor, it is important to consider the timing of harvesting. For example, late cabbage is harvested in October. At this time, it is no longer possible to prepare the soil for carrots, early greens and other crops. The volume of grown products also plays a big role. For example, potatoes take up more space than all vegetables combined, and parsley takes up less space than tomatoes or cucumbers. This is why it is necessary to group the vegetables for the crop rotation so that they occupy approximately the same area. After potatoes, you can plant potatoes and other vegetables, except for pepper, tomato and eggplant. Potatoes can be grown after any crops. Tomato, pepper and eggplant (nightshade) should not grow in one place for more than 2 years in a row. They can be grown after any vegetable crops except cucumber, and cucumber cannot be grown after nightshade. Pumpkin (pumpkin, zucchini, squash, melon) are good predecessors for all crops except cucumber. You can grow pumpkin after any crop. Cucumber is a plant demanding of its predecessor. It can be grown in one place for only a year. Cucumber is undesirable to sow after pumpkin, melon, cabbage, swede and tomato. In turn, the listed plants are not recommended to be planted after the cucumber. Root crops (carrots, beets, rutabaga, parsnips, parsley, celery, etc.), like cucumbers, should not be planted in the same place in the 2nd year. They grow well after nightshade crops, cabbage and cucumber. After root crops, you can plant any crops. The only exception is spinach, which should not be planted after beets. Cabbage (white cabbage, red cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, etc.), as well as radish and radish do not grow well after corn, cucumber and cabbage. Beans, peas, beans and soybeans are good forerunners for all vegetables. They, in turn, can also be planted after other crops. It is better not to plant onions for 2 years in one place, although they are undemanding to their predecessors. After garlic, onions, shallots, you can plant any vegetable crops. Lettuce, dill, artichoke, chicory and other greens can grow after any predecessors.

If you have a cottage, garden or just household plot, then our site will be a real find. Here you will find many useful, relevant articles on various topics related to gardening and horticulture.

Many may think that everyone can grow vegetables or fruits. Like, it’s enough just to plant seeds in the ground, water them and wait until the harvest begins. In fact, this is not so, because you have to work very hard to achieve the desired result. It is important to know at what time to plant tree seedlings, how to care for them, what procedures need to be performed in order to ultimately reap a rich harvest. You need to know what pests of garden and horticultural crops exist. These and more questions will be answered by our website.

Growing vegetables and fruits in the country is a profitable occupation. After all, at minimal cost, you can collect healthy gifts of the earth every year. Only an avid gardener will feel joy, pride, as soon as he picks the first vegetables grown from the garden. with my own hands. In the future, they can be preserved, processed in such a way as to enjoy the taste of compotes, jams, canned tomatoes or cucumbers all winter. You can not worry about nitrates, as everything will be grown with love, with care for your health and your loved ones.

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A few years of working at the dacha changed my life a lot. Most importantly, they brought joy and satisfaction. And what inventors are my colleagues in the garden! I never cease to be amazed! I have learned a lot from them and I hope to learn a lot more. I solved all garden secrets and country tricks or useful tips for gardeners to collect in one place. I am sure that there are a lot of little tricks for gardeners and gardeners and the page will be constantly updated.

1. Tops of tomatoes from pests

Cut tops of tomatoes (stepchildren, lower leaves) fill with water. Insist for a day. You can spray with this composition cruciferous (for example, cabbage, radish, radish, etc.) and pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins) from various pests. Another secret - if the tops are allowed to sour, you will get an excellent top dressing for any crops.

2. How to water onions sown with seeds so that they are healthy

Black onions should be watered not only with water, but alternately, either with a weak ash solution (1 glass of ash per bucket of water), or with a very weak solution of potassium permanganate - all pests disappear - the onion becomes strong, healthy.

3. How to keep carrots until spring?

Just leave one bed of carrots undigged. Carefully cut off all the tops, cover the bed on the palm of your hand with earth on top. In the spring, rake the ground - dig up the carrots. It will be fresh, juicy and delicious!

5. Parsley shoots will appear in three hours

Many of us grow greens for the table on the window or balcony. It is very comfortable. Parsley seeds germinate very slowly, but there is one trick to "make" them germinate very quickly. Prepare a container with earth, moisten it, sprinkle the earth quicklime three times every 10-15 minutes. Sow parsley seeds pre-soaked in milk. The seeds will sprout in three hours. The room should be warm, not lower than 20°C.

6. Iodine for the garden

a) If, when growing seedlings, tomatoes are poured once with a weak iodine solution (one drop of iodine per three liters of water), flower brushes will form faster, will be more branched, and the number of ovaries will increase. The fruits on such tomatoes will be 10-15% larger, ripen several days earlier. When the seedlings are planted in the ground, then after two weeks the plants can again be poured with iodine water 1 liter under each root (three drops of iodine per bucket of water).

b) To protect strawberries from gray rot, it is useful to spray the bushes 2-3 times with a solution of iodine (10 ml per 10 liters of water) with an interval of 10 days.

7. Pine needles in pest control

Pine needles can be effectively used in the fight against pests in the garden. To do this, take 1 kg of needles per 5 liters of water, put in a dark place for a week. Stir the infusion daily in order to extract the necessary substances from the pine needles. Then strain the infusion. Before spraying, add water to the original volume. Adding 20 g of liquid soap to 5 liters of infusion increases its effectiveness. Apply an infusion of pine needles against aphids, suckers.

When you need to urgently prepare an infusion, you can take pine needles, pour boiling water over them in a 1: 1 ratio, leave for a day. Strain, add liquid soap- the drug is ready. Such a strong infusion should be diluted with water 1:5 before use. The experience of gardeners has shown that spraying should be carried out in the late afternoon. The effect multiplies.

According to the norms, the advice is as follows: for a currant bush - 1.5 l, for a gooseberry bush - 1 l, for a raspberry bush - 2 l, for square meter strawberries - 0.2 l, for an adult tree - 10 l. Currants and gooseberries are sprayed at the very beginning of flowering in order to prevent the appearance of moths. Repeat the operation with an interval of 5 days.

An infusion of pine needles helps strawberries against gray rot - this is very important for preserving the crop. Pine suppresses gray rot during the ripening period of berries, so it’s a good idea to mulch planting strawberries with pine needles.

8. To keep strawberries, strawberries from birds

immediately after flowering, spread various small objects painted in bright red color between the plants, similar to ripe berries (for example, walnuts, round stones). By the time the berries are ripe, curious birds will already understand that they have nothing to do here.

9. How to use bird (chicken, pigeon) droppings?

It should be remembered that bird droppings are a very concentrated fertilizer, it is impossible to overestimate the doses of its use. When digging the soil per 1 sq. m contribute 500 g of dry bird droppings. When planting plants, it is introduced into holes, nests no more than 8-10 g per plant. Effective liquid feeding: fresh bird droppings are diluted with water in such a ratio - if the bird droppings are fresh - then 1 kg per 10 liters of water, and if dry - then 1 kg per 20 liters of water.

As soon as the bird droppings get wet, they mix it well and bring it under the plants, without leaving it to ferment. A solution of bird droppings is consumed at 2 liters per 1 sq. m. After pouring the soil around the plant with this solution, it should be covered with a layer of dry soil of 1 cm and poured with clean water.

10. We burn garbage

Burn garden waste in spring or late autumn - difficult task for many gardeners. Wet residues do not want to flare up. In this difficult matter will help ... a brick. Put it first in a dry place so that it dries well. Completely submerge the dry brick for three hours in kerosene. When it is soaked, wrap it in plastic wrap. Firstly, so that it does not “flavor” the air, and secondly, this way it will retain its combustible properties longer. When it will be necessary to burn the garbage, it is placed inside the prepared heap and set on fire.

It burns long and evenly. In order to extinguish the flame later, the brick is pulled out of the fire with a stick, covered with a wet thick rag.

11. How to sow carrots without the hassle?

Carrots have very small seeds. It is very inconvenient to sow them - sometimes a lot, sometimes a little gets into the groove of the bed. There is an exit! Take a small medicine bottle. Make it in a lid small hole slightly larger than a carrot seed. Pour the seeds into a bottle and, closing the lid, sow on the garden bed like salt. Very economical option receive.

12. About tool sharpening

We, gardeners and gardeners, need a good cutting tool: garden knives, shovels, secateurs, axes, choppers, flat cutters, saws. But, alas, it is very rare now to get a quality tool. Choppers quickly become dull and jagged. Blades bend and break. Our heavy black soil does not withstand all modern tools. But these shortcomings are easily eliminated by treating them with a weak solution of table salt.

hardening and point cutting tool gardeners have been using it in a solution of table salt for a long time. I learned about this trick, about this method of sharpening from my father.

The solution is prepared simply: 1 glass of water + 1 tablespoon of salt. Water temperature matters. If the tool is made of hard and brittle (brittle) steel, then it should be slightly warm - + 28-35 ° C. And if the steel is soft, then the brine water should be even warmer - + 35-40 ° С. Of course, the volume of the solution depends on the size of the tool that you will be preparing for sharpening. The tool must be completely immersed in water.

If you are going to harden a new instrument with salt, then you first need to sharpen it, and then put it in a salt solution for half an hour. After that, it can already be finally sharpened and directed. Periodically rinse the tool in salt water while sharpening. The father is sure that with such sharpening the tool will not break - fragility will disappear, solid steel will become more elastic. Not only that, this tool lasts longer and does not grind as quickly as when sharpening without the use of salt water.

13. Seed treatment before sowing

Seed treatment with hydrogen peroxide is not a completely new, but rather promising method for disinfecting and preparing seed material for sowing, especially in the absence of potassium permanganate, which is familiar to us, on sale. At the same time, hydrogen peroxide increases the sowing qualities of seeds, plant immunity, growth and development rates, and increases the yield.

To improve sowing qualities and stimulate germination, seeds are soaked in a 0.4% hydrogen peroxide solution for 12 hours, and difficult-to-sprout seeds, for example, beet seeds, parsley, for 24 hours.

For disinfection, the seed is treated in a 10% hydrogen peroxide solution for 20 minutes at a ratio of seed weight to solution of 1:1. Then the seeds are washed with water and dried to the flowability required for sowing.

Soaking seeds in a 0.4% hydrogen peroxide solution increases the germination energy, accelerates the emergence of seedlings by 2-4 days, increases yield, and helps to reduce the nitrate content in products. Treatment of seed material with a 10% hydrogen peroxide solution reduces the infection of seeds with pathogens.

Don't be lazy! Carry out the treatment and disinfection of seeds before sowing with hydrogen peroxide, and the result will not be long in coming.

14. How to protect trees in winter from hares and mice

It turns out that you can do without such time-consuming work as tying the boles of young trees with film, spruce branches and other materials. The trick is that hares can't stand some smells. For example, smell fish oil or stale fat. Lubricate the trunks with one of these "drugs". There is another way: hang bags of mothballs on the lower branches of the tree.

15. Sweet peppers have stopped setting new fruit.

How to "force" the pepper to tie new fruits? I read the answer to this question a long time ago, but I was in no hurry to publish it, as I myself forgot to follow it in practice. It often happens (for me, at least), you seem to know about something, but memory does not throw up the answer at the right time. And last year (summer 2018), just such a situation happened with sweet pepper. It bloomed on time, fruit set, but there were no new flowers. And I really saw that I would not see a big harvest. Quite by chance, looking through my notes, I saw this advice and decided that it would not be worse than it was. There won't be enough pepper anyway.

So the advice was that as soon as you saw that after the first ovaries of pepper no new buds are formed, you must ruthlessly cut off all the ovaries. The practical experience of expert gardeners assured that after such an operation, the pepper would begin to bloom with renewed vigor and give a good harvest by the end of the garden season.

Ruthlessly cut off all the ovaries, as you might have guessed, I could not. The worm of doubt: how to cut it all off, suddenly there will be nothing at all, did not let me do it on all plants. I still left some of the peppers with ovaries untouched. And what? The advisers were right!

After 10-12 days, peppers with torn fruits gave as many buds as I had never had before. Part of the ovaries and flowers fell off, but started enough fruits. These peppers never stopped blooming again. The ovaries formed regularly, the plants themselves became more powerful, branched than those that I regretted. I have not been left without a harvest! By the way, peppers left with ovaries stood for a very long time without new ovaries. They appeared only closer to autumn, but they did not have time to fully mature.

And what country advice you can give to fellow gardeners?

What could be better than a country house that gives comfort and peace? In which you can escape from this everyday bustle and from this gray crowd, constantly demanding something that surrounds us. As you may have guessed, today we decided to talk about the garden and the garden. There are a lot of communities in VKontakte that are devoted to this topic. We decided to review the most informative of them. Those groups and publics in which you can learn the maximum for yourself useful information on this topic.

Great community for all gardening lovers. Unlike the previous community, this one has just under a hundred interesting videos on the topic. You will learn how to beautifully and effectively equip your country cottage area, plant flowers, vegetables and fruits, take care of trees, bushes and beautiful flower beds. An excellent hobby that brings quite concrete results to itself (by the way, another good hobby is). Also in this public you will find four albums with colorful photos. Show off your dacha, show it to thousands of people on VKontakte!

All the brightest and most interesting

Community of the same name

According to the administration of this public, it contains the most best advice relating to gardening and gardening. Don't know what siderates are and how to use them? How to grow beautiful and large lettuce leaves? Is it possible to vaccinate an apple tree in August? You will learn about all this, and even more, on the wall of the public.

That's it, dear friends. It becomes clear that if you are really interested in the garden and the garden, it makes sense to join all four of these communities in Vkontakte, and become an active participant in them. Constantly perceiving new information, asking for advice. Don't forget to share your experience as well. Believe me, for someone it may seem really priceless. The garden and garden on the VKontakte social network is a topic that will never become irrelevant and will always be in trend!