Construction of a sloping roof with your own hands. How to build a sloping roof with your own hands. Cutting out and knocking down the rafter assembly

A sloping or mansard roof is one of the popular and common types of roofing. It is particularly effective and convenient when the attic involves the arrangement of a living room. The break in the slopes provides significant additional space, with the upper level serving as a roof, and the lower level becoming the walls for the room.

A house with a sloping roof is quite common in our country. This type of roofing is widely used both for covering private houses and dacha construction. Frame house often happens with a sloping roof. This is explained by the peculiarity that the frame structure does not involve the construction of a large house, and the attic roof helps to make maximum use of the space on the second floor to create another living room in the country house.

A broken roof is quite simple to construct, although it requires special calculations during its design. At certain experience You can build it yourself. In this article we will look at how to build a sloping roof with your own hands.

In this article

Design

A sloping roof requires preliminary calculation of all elements. Design is carried out in two stages:

The rafter system of a house with a sloping roof is calculated taking into account the weight of the finishing coating. The required amount of roofing is calculated by calculating the roof area. This roof consists of four planes in the form of rectangles, its area will be equal to the sum of their areas.

It is important not to forget to add 15% to the resulting number to form joints of the roofing material and unforeseen situations.

Having calculated the area of the roofing material, it is easy to find out its weight and, in accordance with this, design the rafter system as capable of holding this roofing material. In addition to the weight of the roof itself, when designing rafter system must be taken into account:

A lot of other elements of the roofing pie: insulation, insulating materials, sheathing;
The length of the rafter legs, the pitch of the rafter system and sheathing;
The slope of the roof slopes, the height of the ridge;
Temporary loads on the roof, such as the weight of builders, roof windows (if they are planned), various fences and abutments.

Choosing the slope angle of roof slopes is one of important points design, which is based on a number of factors:

Type of roofing;
Wind load and precipitation intensity of a particular region.

The classic angles of inclination of the slopes of a sloping roof are located within the range of 35-45° for the upper tier and 60° for the lower.

It must be taken into account that if the under-roof space is used for a living room, then the height of the ridge cannot be less than 2.5 m.

If you plan to add an extension to a house with a sloping roof, we recommend adding this to your plan in advance. As a rule, such extensions are covered pitched roof, which is like a continuation of one of the lower slopes of the roof.

If the design of the house requires a roof with a balcony, then it is advisable to extend the roofing so that the balcony is under its slopes and is not subject to the destructive effects of precipitation.

Selection of materials

After completing the calculation work, you can begin to select materials for constructing the roof. Broken roofs require a fairly standard approach to the formation of a roofing pie and selection building materials:

The Mauerlat and purlins are made of strong thick beams with a section of 200*200 and 50*100 mm, respectively;
Rafter legs are formed from beams 50*200 mm;
To create counter-lattice and sheathing, boards with a smaller section of 50*50 or 20*90 mm will be used;
To create a warm room under the roof, you will need 200 mm thick insulation, as well as hydro- and vapor barrier materials.

A broken roof and its strength depend not only on the accuracy of the calculations made and the choice of building materials, but also on the quality of the wood. We recommend choosing beams and boards of coniferous trees with a moisture content of no more than 20-22% without cracks and knots.

Before we start installation work All wooden elements They must be coated twice with special antiseptic solutions that protect the wood from rot and pests. A roof constructed from such materials will be durable, solid and will last for decades.

It is important to decide on the roofing material before starting installation work, since a number of factors depend on its type. important features rafter system, such as rafter spacing and sheathing. Mansard roofing is compatible with any type of roof, as it has a fairly simple geometry and does not result in a large waste of materials.

Installation

So, how to make a sloping roof? Construction mansard roof on its own requires compliance with a number of rules. Let's take a closer look at how to build this type of roof step by step. sloping roof with your own hands.

Installation of the Mauerlat and rafter system

The Mauerlat beam is attached along the top of the walls to specially prepared studs. The optimal pitch between studs is approximately 2 meters. The Mauerlat bars are additionally secured to the walls with a wire tie. To protect the walls from moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of roofing material under the Mauerlat.

The next step is to lay the floor beams, which will serve as the frame for the vertical posts of the rafter system. The beams can be laid on a mauerlat secured with iron corners or in pre-made recesses in the masonry walls.

When laying beams, it is important to maintain a horizontal level.

Installation of the rafter system begins with vertical rafters with level control. Next, purlins secured with iron corners are placed on the racks. The parallel racks are fastened together with ties, which can be reinforced with struts for additional support.

The lower tier of rafters is supported by a mauerlat and purlin. The rafters are cut at an angle in advance and secured to the support with plates. Strengthening the lower rafter legs is done with struts, the lower edge of which is installed at an angle on the beam, and the upper edge is mounted to the rafter with a bolt.

The upper rafters are also pre-cut according to the template. In the upper part they are connected by boards or plates, and in the lower part they are inserted into the purlin with fastening with corners. The rafter legs are additionally strengthened with a stand to the place where the rafters are fastened and tightened.

Insulation, lathing and roofing

After installing the rafter system, roof insulation work is carried out. Waterproofing with an overlap is laid on the rafters from the outside roll material 10-15 cm. The material is attached to the rafter legs with nails. Next, the work moves under the roof. Layers of mineral wool are laid between the rafters and covered with a vapor barrier material. The entire structure is sewn up from the inside with construction cardboard for finishing the interior.

From the outside, a counter batten is placed on the waterproofing layer and then lathing with a pitch corresponding to the type of roofing material chosen.

The roofing material is laid in accordance with the installation rules for the selected type of roof, but in general outline repeats the basic rules: laying from the bottom of the slope to the top.

We figured out how to make a sloping roof on our own. By following our instructions, you will receive a strong and reliable roof that for many years will delight you with its efficiency and convenience.

Thanks to its ergonomics and cost-effectiveness, the construction of pitched roofs and the ability to properly utilize attic space is very famous. The organization of insulated and non-insulated attic spaces is used in this technology. This technology differs from the traditional one in that the roofing structure here comes with a variable angle of inclination of the slopes, while in the usual one there is a gable system. And therefore, those who want to make such a roof with an attic floor need to understand how the sloping roof system is structured and how the dimensions of the materials for its construction are determined.

One of the most famous representatives of the category of broken roofs is a 5-gonal construction with a visible difference in the angles of inclination of the slopes. Even if you do not know all the intricacies of its construction, it is possible to understand that the structure is made of two tiers installed on top of each other. The attic is located in the lower fundamental tier, which gave another name to sloping roofs. Strengthening the lower part of the roof, the less extensive crown tier gives shape to the building in the area of the apex. But the use of “broken” technology cannot always be recognized by the appearance of the roof. The roof may look like a simple gable structure, but the angle of inclination of the slopes of the upper and lower levels can be equal. There are countless variations of sloping roofs, but they are all built according to the same principle - by erecting two or more tiers.

Creating a rafter frame for two departments attic roof be carried out according to the rules emanating from the usual technology for constructing pitched roofs. The bottom of the sloping roof base is constructed using layered rafter support “legs”. In the upper part it is possible to use both layered and hanging rafters. The bottom of layered rafters has the right to be based on a Mauerlat “Mauerlat is an element of the roofing system of a building. It is a beam or log laid on top along the perimeter outer wall." or on floor beams.

In most cases, a wooden frame is used as the basis for the top, which also plays the role of the frame of one of the walls of the attic. In the organization of the upper part of the roof, it is usually aimed at the livability of the work for the actor.

The angle of inclination of the slopes of the lower tier of the roof, as usual, is much steeper than the upper one. They are a clear example of the use of “broken” technology in the construction of a roof, in the form of a break. However, the verticality of the lower and upper tier of the slopes may be the same, which is why the broken structure may seem like an ordinary gable roof. Due to the need for the frame of the lower tier to provide the ability to organize the area used, the roof is erected in a manner typical for sloping roofs. That is, the truss structure must have the necessary parts with an established transmission capacity for the construction of the walls and ceiling of an uninsulated or insulated attic.

The parts of the lower and upper tiers are calculated separately, since the loads on the rafter legs are uneven. Also, in a pentagonal sloping roof, it is certainly determined by the presence of two parts, slopes having different angles of inclination and most often different lengths.

It makes no sense to consider the difficult calculations that designers of construction companies make, since each calculation is individual. Specialists will do this for you. There are enough programs on the network that can solve complex mathematical operations for calculating the cross-section of rafters, beams and supports in a few seconds. Let's look at what types of loads on the rafters of the upper and lower tier and the overlap you should know.

Calculations of the lower rafters are made for compression with bending, and more often, only for compression, since the roofs of such schemes are made, according to the standard, for steeper slopes on which snow does not hold and the main load becomes the wind and the weight of the upper triangle. And the wind, even of hurricane force, is unlikely to break the rafters; rather, it will tear off the cover or throw off the entire roof. Here anti-wind measures already come into play: installation of twisted wires and weaving the roof to a single wall belt with threaded anchors.

The literal power from the weight of the snow cover, which is required to calculate the guiding ability of rafter structures in a specific construction location, must be determined in regional construction companies or establish according to the maps SP 20.13330.2011 “Loads and impacts”. The number of the snow region is formed according to the zoning map, which was compiled according to the calculated data of snow cover on the territory of the country. Then from the table below we select the snow load suitable for this region.

Wind load is necessary to calculate the strength of the rafter system. To describe it, we again use a zoning map, but this time compiled by the magnitude of wind pressure.

This coefficient is needed for the rafters of both tiers of the roof, since a gusty wind can tear off the steep part and carry it away.

In regions with high wind loads, the frequency of strengthening rafter legs to the walls increases, that is, they are attached with wires more often than just through one. For survivability, the number of wind connections is added - slopes, stops, boards or slats, which are nailed to four or more rafters. Their weight must be taken into account when calculating the total weight of the roofing.

The weight of the roof is a complex characteristic with individual characteristics. Essentially, this is the weight of the roofing shuttle of a certain insulated or non-insulated device with a distinct type of covering and a solid or thin frame constructed specifically for the covering. It is calculated per 1 meter of roofing area.

Average coating weights can be found in the table on the Internet. You can also find many photos and drawings of a broken line on the Internet. It must be taken into account that when using protruding roofing materials, the mass of the snow cover should be increased by 10 percent. For example, if it is installed with a large wave, then you need to keep in mind that the snow cover in the channels can accumulate and lie there for days.

The mass of the sheathing is the most significant component of the roofing structure. The weight of the frame is related to the type of coating. The structure of a soft roof requires a continuous flooring made of boards, layers of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB sheets. Sheet metal profiles, slate, clay tiles are installed on beams mounted with the required spacing. The mass of the “base” frame will be increased due to the installation of diagonal wind connections in places with the highest wind load. The weight of insulation is also calculated separately.

Each part of the roof can be subject to different types of loads. The entire set of loads should not be subject to deformation and malfunction, which could lead to mandatory repairs. Calculation of load-bearing structures according to the standard is done taking into account two limit values, this

Maximum strength is a condition that, if exceeded, leads to a breakdown of the building structure and loss of stability.
Maximum deformation is a condition that, if exceeded, leads to unacceptable sagging, as a result of which the geometry of the structure changes and the nodal connection breaks.

Among the loads that act on the roof are: winter precipitation, wind, its own weight, the weight of people, furniture that use the attic. The influence of loads can be simultaneous, alternately and in combination, like furniture + people + wind; snow + man and so on.

Thanks to the calculations, the maximum probability of influence of the maximum load is provided.

Before you start building a rafter system for a sloping roof, you need to calculate the details of the system and create a project. Let's imagine that this stage is done.

Let's look at one of the standard examples of building an attic with two tiers of layered rafters fastened on top of a brick frame. We will attach the rafter structure to the Mauerlat, that is, to a wooden frame made from a 150x200mm beam, placing it at the same level as the inner perimeter of the walls. A row of bricks are placed along the outer edge of the box, which mask the maerlat and relieve part of the spacer load. The upper part of the Mauerlat must be 2-3 centimeters higher than the brick fortification.

The construction of the structure begins with the installation of the outermost beams, the removal of which determines the width of the eaves eaves. Further along the tension between the outer beams we place intermediate elements with a step equal to the length between the rafter legs. For insulated rafter systems, it is recommended to set the pitch equal to the width of the heat insulator slab, so that the heat insulator sits tightly in the required space between the rafters. For non-insulated buildings, the step is proportioned so that a whole number of roof trusses are accommodated with an even gap between them.

The size of the block for constructing the floor is 100x200mm. When placing the beams, we adjust their upper plane if it is not possible to place them strictly horizontally. We make the placement through maerlat undercuts or wood chips under the beam. After strengthening the beams to the maerlat, we install a short beam at their end, so that they create a plane for the front eaves overhangs. The distance between the short bars is not important, even 1m or something like that.

We make marks on the constructed floor line for placing a row of supports for the rafter legs of the lower tier. Along with their supporting function, they act as a frame for the attic walls.

We do it this way:

We use 100x150mm timber, which is 10 cm longer than the final height of the attic ceiling; with its help we mount corner supports. We coordinate the verticality of the supports using a plumb line, we will strengthen them only after we make sure that the installation is ideal. For complete stability, we strengthen their position with temporary supports.

Similarly, we install stops in the middle of the end walls.

We connect the corner stops with a cord to determine the installation location of the intermediate supports. To create intermediate supports, a 50x150mm material with a height equal to the corner supports will do.
On top of the two levels of supports we stack beams made from 50x150mm boards. There is no longer a need for intermediate supports; the constructed walls of the future attic are strong even without them.
To form the ceiling, you need to install the board edgewise on the beams.
We erect a 25x150mm board on top of the attic under construction. There is no need to mount it along the axis of the structure. The best solution would be to lay it parallel, retreating 20-30 centimeters from the axis.

The rafters of the lower level of the roof of the “broken” technology are produced and installed in the usual layered manner:

We install a 25x150mm board of the required length at the end of the structure being built and draw the lines of the upper and lower cuts with a technical pencil. Provided that there are no flaws in the geometry of the rafter structure, this sample can be used for the production of all rafters of the lower row.

If there are deviations in the work, we install only the outer legs and stretch a cord between them. Following the example on the other rafters, we leave only the top cut. Combining the upper part of the workpiece with lacing, the bottom line must be marked according to the fact.

We install the rafter legs. We fasten them to the floor beams with staples or iron corners, and on top of the beams with nails, several pieces.

It sometimes happens that just one board is not enough to cover the entire length of the lower sloping surface. In these cases, the rafter is installed from two short boards, reinforced with a piece of material of similar cross-section 1 meter or more in length. But, it is most advisable to order boards of the required length in order to weaken the structure with fastened sections.

To make and install the upper rafters, you first need to make a mark central axis. In order to do this, you need to attach a piece of inch to the outermost ceiling board of the attic, always vertically. The cutting edge must exactly coincide with the main axis of the sloping roof truss structure marked on the diagram, after:

We take measurements to the edge of the inch to create a sample and make a mark on it along the line of cuts, the upper part of which is drawn directly along the marked piece of the axis.

We make several rafter legs for the upper slopes according to the sample. If there is no doubt about the correctness of the constructed frame, we make a couple of forages at once. In another case, we act in the same way as with the lower pairs.

We install the first pair of rafters, calling someone to help. The installation cannot be overpowered by one, as they do not have upper support. To ensure that the created reinforced rafter system does not fall apart, support it with a slope.

We attach the remaining trusses to the upper part of the structure. It is necessary to substitute them with struts every 3-4 pieces. The slope angle must be greater than 45 degrees.

You need to follow the path of their slope one by one.

The designed type and installation step of the frame does not matter at all; anyway, along the “ridge” line and the slope break line, the sheathing is made continuous. Opposite to the direction of the rafter legs, two boards are “targeted” with a gap of 2-3mm between them. The most continuous structure is built in the valleys, if there are any, around the attic windows and holes for the chimney. If a soft version of the roofing is used, the frame is installed continuous along the entire slope area. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to or greater than the width of the rafters, a counter frame is installed in front of the frame, built in by installing a remote beam. It is needed to create a gap between the waterproofing and the material to be coated. There is no need for a spacer bar if the thickness of the heat-insulating boards makes it possible to leave a ventilation gap without removing tricks. There is also no need for it if you build an uninsulated roof.

The popularity of sloping roofs is due to the cost-effectiveness of construction and the ability to rationally use attic space. They are used to organize insulated and non-insulated attics. The technology for constructing roofing structures with variable slope angles differs from the traditional gable scheme.

Therefore, those who want to acquire an attic floor and successfully prove themselves in the field of roofing need to know how the rafter system of a sloping roof is structured and how the dimensions of the materials for its construction are calculated.

The most striking and expressive representative of the class of sloping roofs is a pentagonal structure with a clear difference in the angles of inclination of the slopes. Even without delving into the specifics of its construction, one can understand that it is made of two tiers stacked on top of each other. In the lower solid tier there is an attic, which gave the second name to broken roofs. The less voluminous top tier, crowning the lower part, determines the shape of the structure in the ridge area.

Briefly about the specifics of the rafter structure

Rafter frame for both parts mansard roof They are built according to the rules dictated by the usual one. The lower part of the sloping roof frame is built by installing layered rafter legs. In the construction of the upper part, both layered and hanging rafters can be used. The bottom of the layered rafters has the right to rest on the mauerlat or on the floor beams. The support for the top is most often a wooden frame, which at the same time plays the role of a frame for one of the walls of the attic. The design of the upper tier is focused mainly on ease of use for the performer.

According to tradition, the angle of inclination of the slopes of the lower part of the sloping roof is much steeper than the upper one. They create a break - a clear indicator of the use of broken technology in roof construction. However, the steepness of the upper and lower parts of the slopes may be equal, which is why the broken structure will look like an ordinary gable. But they are installed using the standard method for sloping roofs, because the frame of the lower tier must ensure the possibility of organizing the space being used. Those. the rafter system must have the necessary elements with a given load-bearing capacity for constructing the walls and ceiling of an insulated or cold attic.

Types of loads and their combination

Tricky formulas according to which designers calculate the sloping roof truss system construction companies, we will not bring it. The builders know them without us. Those who decide to build one or two roofs on a suburban area do not need such fundamental information at all. There are plenty of programs on the Internet that perform complex mathematical operations in a couple of seconds to calculate the cross-section of rafters, supports and beams. Let’s better understand what data will be required to be entered into the program, as well as what types of loads on the floor, rafters of the upper and lower tier should be taken into account.

Download the program itself here -(you only need Excel to work). Further we will give examples of working specifically with it.

Why are limits needed?

Each element of the sloping roof rafter system will be subject to different types of loads. The sum of the loads should not lead to deformations and damage requiring mandatory repairs. According to the rules, load-bearing structures are calculated taking into account two limit values, these are:

Ultimate strength is a condition, the excess of which leads to the destruction of the building structure, loss of endurance or stability.
Limiting deformation is a condition, the excess of which leads to unacceptable deflections, as a result of which not only the geometry of the structure changes, but the nodal joints are disrupted.

For both types of specified limit states designers make calculations. An independent roofer does not need these subtleties too much. The calculation programs available on the Internet with their formulas already take into account the limits. They are entered into the calculation algorithm in the form of signal values of the type:

N tr. strength - the size of an element of the rafter system, a decrease in which will lead to a loss of strength.
N tr. deflection is the size of an element, the reduction of which will lead to threatening deformation.

When turning to automatic computing help, you need to pay close attention to such values. This is an extreme minimum indicating that actual design values should be higher.

The list of loads acting on the roof includes the weight of winter precipitation, wind force, dead weight, the weight of furniture and people using the attic. Loads can act simultaneously, alternately or in any combination such as snow + furniture + people; snow + wind, etc. Calculations are carried out to the maximum in an effort to provide for the likelihood of exposure to the greatest load.

How to determine the weight of snow cover

To determine the weight of the snow cover, you do not need any special knowledge. It is carried out by determining whether the construction site belongs to a specific “snow region”. We found a region on the map with a number assigned to it, then looked at the sign to see how much snow would press on the horizontal surface.

For the rafters of the upper and lower tier of a sloping roof, the snow weight indicators will be different. The slopes of a sloping roof in most cases are unequal in angle of inclination. Solid sediments have more opportunity to linger and lie on the close to gently sloping top than on the steep slopes of the lower part. It should be taken into account that on slopes with a steepness of up to 30º, the weight of snow is taken equal to one unit of the average value accepted in the region based on long-term observations of the weather service. It is believed that on slopes with a steepness of 60º or more, snow does not remain at all, i.e. equal to zero. The value of the snow weight in the interval between the indicated slopes is found by interpolation. For example, if the angle of inclination is 45º, then the table indicator should be multiplied by a factor of 0.5, for 50º by 0.33, etc.

How to find wind load

Wind load is needed to calculate the stability of the rafter system. To determine it, we again use a zoning map, but this time compiled from wind pressure values. This indicator is necessary for the rafters of both tiers of the roof, because a gusty wind can tear off and carry away the flat part, and simply overturn the steep part. Information about wind strength determined from the map is corrected by multiplying by a coefficient developed for different types terrain.

In regions with high wind loads, the frequency of attaching rafter legs to the walls increases, i.e. they are fastened with wire twists more often than not. For stability, the number of wind connections increases - struts, supports, boards or slats nailed to three or more rafters. Their weight must be taken into account when calculating the total weight of the roof structure.

Roof weight load

The weight of the roof is a prefabricated characteristic with individual parameters. Essentially, this is the mass of the roofing pie of a specific insulated or cold design with a certain type of covering and a continuous or sparse lathing specially arranged for the covering. It is calculated per meter of roofing area.

The average weights of coatings can be found on the plate. It should be taken into account that when using embossed roofing materials, the weight of the snow cover should be increased by 10%. For example, if you are making corrugated sheeting with a large wave, you should remember that the snow cover in the recesses can accumulate and lie for a long time.

The weight of the lathing depends on the type of coating. The installation of a soft roof requires a continuous flooring made of boards, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB boards. Profiled sheet metal, slate, and clay tiles are mounted on bars installed at a certain pitch. The weight of the sheathing will increase due to the installation of diagonal wind ties in regions with high wind loads. The weight of insulation and the rafter system itself with struts, supports, purlins and other elements is also calculated individually.

For preliminary calculations, there are approximate average indicators:

weight wooden sheathing from 10 to 12 kg/m²;
weight of layered rafter legs with a run from 5 to 10 kg/m²;
the weight of the hanging legs of the truss is from 10 to 15 kg/m².

The readings calculated using the programs should not differ too much from the figures given. For insulated attics, the list of loads should be supplemented with the weight of the sheathing. In the case of using insulation with a thermal conductivity coefficient slightly different from 0.04 W/m×°C, its mass can be neglected.

We showed where and how to find values to enter into calculation systems. All other information for the mathematical determination of the cross-section of rafters, beams, and supports is entered according to the design data. If the calculation system warns that the “condition is not met” or the load-bearing capacity is not ensured, the dimensions of the elements should be increased.

Construction of a broken rafter system

Before you begin constructing a rafter system for a future sloping roof, you need to make a project and make calculations of the structural elements. We will assume that the design stage has been completed.

Let's consider one of the typical examples of constructing an attic with two tiers of layered rafters installed above a brick frame. We will attach the rafter system to the Mauerlat - wooden frame made of timber 150x200mm, laid flush with the inner perimeter of the walls. A row of bricks is laid along the outer edge of the box, masking the Mauerlat and removing part of the thrust load. The upper plane of the mauerlat should be 2-3 cm higher than the brick trim.

Installation of floor beams

We begin the construction of the floor by installing the outer beams, the extension of which determines the width of the eaves overhangs. Next, along a cord stretched between the outer beams, we install intermediate elements with a step equal to the distance between the rafter legs. For insulated roofs, it is recommended to make the pitch equal to the width of the thermal insulation slab, so that the insulation fits tightly in the space between the rafters intended for it. For non-insulated structures, the pitch is calculated so that a whole number of roof trusses with equal distances between them fit.

The size of the timber for the construction of the floor is 100×200mm. When laying beams, we level their upper plane if it is not possible to align them strictly to the horizon. Leveling is carried out by lifting the Mauerlat or placing wood chips under the beam. After attaching the beams to the Mauerlat, we attach a short beam to their end, so that they form a plane for the end eaves overhangs. The spacing between short beams doesn't matter, maybe 1m or so.

Construction of attic walls

On the constructed ceiling we mark the location lines of a row of supports for the rafter legs of the lower tier. Along with their supporting function, they play the role of a frame for the walls of the attic.

We proceed as follows:

We install corner supports, for the manufacture of which we use 100x150mm timber 10cm longer than the final height of the attic ceiling. We check the verticality of the supports with a plumb line; we will fasten them only after we are convinced that the installation is perfect. For stability, we fix their position with temporary braces. By analogy, we install supports in the middle of the gable walls.
We connect the corner supports with a cord to indicate the installation location of the intermediate posts. For the manufacture of intermediate supports suitable material 50×150mm with the same height as the corner supports.
On top of two rows of supports we lay purlins made from 50x150mm boards. Temporary spacers will no longer be needed; the constructed walls of the future attic are stable even without them.
We install a board edgewise on the purlins; it will form the ceiling of the attic.
We lay a 25x150mm board on top of the ceiling of the attic under construction. It does not need to be installed along the axis of the building. It is better to lay it parallel, 20-30cm away from the axis.

The result of the efforts is a finished attic frame and supports for installing the upper tier of rafter legs.

Installation of rafters of the lower tier

The rafters of the lower tier of a sloping roof are manufactured and installed using the standard layered method:

We apply a 25x150mm board of the required length to the end of the structure being constructed and, in fact, mark the lines of the upper and lower cuts with a pencil. This is a template that can be used to make all rafters of the lower tier, if there are no deviations in the geometry of the rafter system.
If there are doubts about the perfection of the previous work, install only the outer legs and stretch the lace between them. Using the template, we make only the top cut on the remaining rafters. We will mark the bottom line after the fact, aligning the top plane of the workpiece with the cord guide.
We install the rafter legs. We fasten them to the floor beams with staples or metal corners, and at the top to the purlins with two or three nails.

It happens that to cover the entire length of the lower slope, one board is not enough. In such situations, the rafter is assembled from two short boards, sewn together with a piece of material of a similar cross-section, 1 m or more in length. True, it is still advisable to order lumber of the required length, so as not to weaken the structure with stitched sections.

Installation of rafter legs of the upper slopes

To manufacture and install the upper rafters, you must first mark the central axis. To do this, the inch piece should be nailed to the outermost ceiling board of the attic strictly vertically. One of the cutting edges must exactly coincide with the central axis of the sloping roof rafter system indicated on the diagram, then:

We try on an inch to the end to make a template and mark the cut lines on it, the top of which we draw straight along the axis marked by the cut.
We make a pair of rafter legs for the upper slopes according to the template. If we have no doubt about the geometry of the constructed frame, we make several blanks at once. Otherwise, we do the same as with our lower brothers.
We install the first pair of rafters, calling for the assistance of two pairs of working hands. You can’t handle the installation alone, because they don’t have an upper support. To prevent the newly erected roof truss from falling, we support it with a strut.
We install the remaining trusses of the upper tier. We support them with struts every 3-4 pieces. The angle of inclination of the struts must be more than 45º. The direction of their tilt should be alternated.

Please note that in order to prevent stretching and sagging of the attic ceiling boards, each upper roof truss must be equipped with a board suspension of approximately 25x150mm.

The photo selection will familiarize you with the specifics of the nodal connections of the truss system of a broken-type roof:

Sheathing of gables and construction of sheathing

Along the ridge line and the break lines of the slopes, the sheathing is made continuous, regardless of the designed type and pitch of its installation. Two boards are nailed across the direction of the rafter legs with a gap of 2-3mm between them. A similar continuous flooring is installed in the valleys, if any, around the attic windows and openings for the passage of the chimney pipe. In the case of using soft types of roofing coverings, the sheathing is arranged continuous over the entire area of the slopes.

If the thickness of the insulation is equal to or greater than the width of the rafters, a counter-lattice is installed in front of the sheathing, constructed by installing a spacer bar. It is necessary to form a gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. Nail the spacer bar from the outside of the system to the rafter edge. If the thickness of the thermal insulation boards allows you to leave a ventilation gap without remote tricks, there is no need to install a distance bar. It is also not needed in the construction of an uninsulated roof.

Upon completion of the installation of the rafter system, the cornices and gable walls, called gables in wooden house construction, are sheathed. Short overhangs adjacent to the gable walls are built, after which it is time to lay the roofing.

Video selection for self-builders

For those wishing to visualize the process of constructing a sloping roof, three videos with step by step production works:

It is impossible to consider all options for constructing truss structures for sloping roofs in one article. Roofing types, architectural parameters, and regions vary. There are many nuances that apply to specific construction conditions. However, the examples we have given perfectly demonstrate the general technological principle. This information about calculation rules and construction schemes should help both home craftsmen and owners supervising the work of a hired team. Leave your questions, if any, in the comments.

When building a house, much attention is paid not only to its appearance, but also to its functionality. It's unlikely that anyone wants to lose interior space, because funds are also spent on its construction. When installing a roof with two slopes, it is definitely possible to arrange attic floor, but even more additional space will appear if you follow the instructions for making a sloping gable roof with your own hands, although such a design will be more difficult to construct.

Roof design

So that the space created under the roof can be comfortably used as a living space, the minimum recommended width of the house is six meters.

A sloping roof must be provided for at the design stage of the house, because it will require additional strengthening of the walls. Thus, brick, gas silicate blocks or foam concrete will require pouring a reinforcing belt into which threaded rods are pre-installed. Their step is one and a half to two meters.

Scheme of a sloping gable roof

Before starting work, you need to decide on two questions:

What is the ratio of the parts of the stingrays? This parameter will affect the height of the interior space.
Will they be installed? skylights and if so, what is the location? At large quantities rooms they will help organize the correct natural lighting.

After this you can proceed to the calculations:

Amounts of roofing material.
Thickness and volume of insulation.
Waterproofing (determined by roof dimensions).
The required amount of wood for the rafters.
Fasteners.

To make the task easier, you can use the found standard project roofs. If you have design skills, you can make it yourself detailed drawing. Specially developed programs will help in calculating the rafter system, namely the pitch and section of the beams. They are based on what roofing material you are going to use, what loads will be placed on the roof, what area of construction and others.

Materials for work

Rafters are the main structural element. It is recommended to use timber as legs and braces high quality with a section of 5x10 cm. You will also need edged boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm.
Mauerlat - support for rafters. It would be good to use timber with a cross section of 25x25 cm.

Coniferous wood is well suited for organizing a rafter system. But it must be dried to a moisture content of no more than 22 percent. A sloping roof differs from a simple gable roof by its greater weight. Due to this, more massive material will be needed.

Instructions for the construction of a rafter system

The tools used are standard, as for any carpentry work. A ladder and safety equipment will also come in handy.

Before starting assembly, it is necessary to treat all the wood with special antiseptics, and also impregnate it with a fire-fighting solution. This work is carried out in accordance with the instructions on the packages. And in order to ensure deeper penetration of solutions into the material, it is better to treat all elements of the rafter system twice. Next, you need to let the wood dry before further assembly. The sheathing slats and counter battens should also be treated. One more preparatory work- drilling holes in mauerlat bars. Their pitch should correspond to the pitch of the studs installed on the walls.

Calculation of the rafter system of a sloping gable roof

In principle, the rafter system can be considered as modularly connected sections, which it is advisable to assemble on the ground, and then lift it to the roof and carry out further installation according to the drawing. This will make the job easier. The upper and lower rafter legs are connected to each other at a selected angle. In order not to disturb the overall geometry of the roof, it is necessary to monitor their precise cutting, as well as observe the dimensions of all parts. This will affect the safe installation of the roof pie. To simplify the work, you can prepare templates. They are made using metal or plywood, in accordance with the project.

Stages of work

On load-bearing walls buildings, it is necessary to lay roofing felt in one or two layers. It will provide waterproofing protection.
Then they proceed to the installation of the Mauerlat. The beams are fastened to the studs using nuts.

The installation of the Mauerlat beams must be carried out while maintaining strict parallelism between them.

If the house is made of wood, the top beam or log will serve as the mauerlat, depending on the material of the building.

When all work with the installation of the rafter system is completed, you can proceed to the next stage of forming the roofing pie - laying heat, steam and waterproofing.

Layer-by-layer image of a roofing pie

The vapor barrier film is attached with inside premises. Metal staples work well for this. It is important to maintain uniform tension on the material.
Mineral wool or polystyrene foam can be used as insulation. They are installed between the rafters.
Laying waterproofing is the final stage; it is overlapped in several layers. This will help reduce the risk of leakage to a minimum.

The waterproofing material may sag, but not more than two centimeters.

Further work can be described as roofing:

When the waterproofing film is laid, the installation of the sheathing begins. Determining the pitch of the slats depends on the type of roofing used in construction. For ease of work, it is made at 30-35 cm, provided that hard materials are used. But for soft roofing, a solid sheathing made of plywood sheets or OSB boards is better suited.
The slats must be positioned straight so that later, when laying the roofing material, no problems arise.
There are no special features for laying the roof covering for a sloping gable roof, so the work is carried out in accordance with the selected material.

Construction experience should be decisive when creating a sloping gable roof with your own hands. Its design can be quite complicated for a beginner.
Roofing material heavy weight It is better not to use it for an already heavy structure. Because of this requirement, tiles will have to be abandoned in favor of existing alternatives - for example, bitumen or metal shingles.
Ventilation of the roofing pie is a prerequisite for proper installation. Vents are installed in the roof and in the ridge part.
The resulting under-roof space is perfect for organizing an attic. And if you plan to locate living quarters there, then you need to approach the issue of its insulation especially carefully. The thickness of the material must be selected in accordance with the requirements of the joint venture. This parameter is selected depending on the construction area.
Also, do not skimp on vapor barrier material. High-quality products will help create a comfortable living environment.

Do-it-yourself sloping gable roof: rafter system, step by step installation etc.

Design and step by step production sloping two-cascade roof, advice on choosing building materials.

Broken roof - device, options, installation instructions

Owners of private houses think about every detail of their home: the type of foundation, the decoration of the facades and the shape of the roof. The attic sloping roof is one of the most popular designs for this part of the building.

Device

The rafter system of a gable sloping roof is different from others a large number kinks on the slopes. It is considered to be one of the most beautiful shapes, but, at the same time, and, like the hip one, quite expensive. It is equipped for houses in which a residential or non-residential attic is planned.

Structural elements

Features of the rafter system:

Unlike the classic gable roof, this model has special stiffening ribs. These racks provide strength to the roof and create smooth walls inside the attic;

Rafter system with headstock

A headstock must be installed between the hanging rafters and the tie. It guarantees tightness and creates additional support;

Scheme without headstock

In turn, struts are mounted between the racks (they are also called scrums) and the layered rafters (which give shape to the roof). They are also stiffening ribs, but for the internal system of rafters - racks;
A broken half-hip roof can also be hipped. The number of slopes depends on the height of the racks - the higher they are, the more kinks. A hip roof is more convenient to use;

The difference between a gable and a hipped sloping roof

The tilt angle cannot be less than 15 degrees. A single-pitched, two or more sloping roof must have a good slope for proper precipitation drainage. Otherwise, a house or an extension with this type of roof will be constantly flooded.

Experts recommend choosing coniferous wood as materials for the rafter system of a private house. Such beams can withstand sudden temperature changes, resist moisture and snow, and also have excellent antiseptic properties.

Roof options

Types of sloping roofs for private buildings:

Square. Here, a right triangle is formed between the layered rafters and the racks. The internal section of the attic resembles a square, which is where the scheme gets its name. Ideal option for houses with a small area and the ability to equip a high attic. This option is ideal for a gazebo or a small frame house;

Square sloping roof design

Rectangular. This type of construction involves increasing the eaves overhang due to wider slopes and floor beams. This option is suitable if the house has a large square area. To prevent deformation of the layered rafters, the struts are strengthened with the help of small racks. This is how both residential buildings and country houses are decorated, i.e., seasonal;

Example of a rectangular system

Combined. This scheme combines the design features of the previous ones. Beams of supports and layered rafters can be installed as additional supports. The grandmother is often strengthened. The system is used for large residential attics. The main convenience of this design is its strength, thanks to which turrets or domes can be installed on the roof surface. This is how a cottage or country house with veranda;
Three-front and more. The pediment nodes in this design are additionally strengthened with special elements, since otherwise they may become deformed. The main difference between this design and the classic broken line is the presence of special reinforced ridge girders. There are also diagonal rafters, which are much larger than the rafters. This type of design is used for brick building, buildings made of timber or blocks. Thanks to this installation scheme, you can make interesting interior attics with sloping roofs.

Sloping roof attic interior

In addition, broken roofing can be used for any utility rooms (garage, bathhouse) and houses with built-in rooms (verandas, greenhouses, etc.).

Before starting work, you need to make drawings of the sloping roof. Various options with a balcony, windows and other elements are freely available on the Internet, in dwg format, for example. It must be taken into account that this is a modular design, its nodes require appropriate connections. Brackets are used to secure the beams together. To calculate the fasteners you will also need a drawing and a technological map.

Drawing of a sloping roof with a window Example of a professional drawing

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a sloping roof with your own hands:

First, the mauerlat and floor beams are installed. They will serve as a ceiling for the lower floor. Before installation, they must be treated with an antiseptic to protect them from moisture and microorganisms;
A vapor barrier and waterproofing are installed under the wooden slope. These measures are needed to protect the ceiling from condensation from the house and possible humidity under the racks;
Depending on the layout chosen, you need to think about the size of the racks in advance. As a standard, they are 10 cm higher than the required ceiling height, since after installation of the rafter system, internal finishing will be carried out;
It should be noted that the slope of the entire roof will depend on the size of the vertical posts. Therefore, select their height so that the roof is at an angle of 15 degrees or more. Otherwise, it will be difficult to drain liquid from it;

Step-by-step instructions with photos

Next, the racks are installed. Their construction involves the installation of vertical beams with temporary spacers, which are removed after installing the top floor and headstock. Otherwise, the structure will be deformed and the roof structure will be disrupted;
Floor boards are installed above the racks. Special corner spacers are used to connect the top floor and vertical beams. To install the headstock, the lower horizontal boards are additionally reinforced with crossbars. They guarantee the rigidity of the temporary installation;
Afterwards, the required distance between the lower rafters is calculated. This can be done based on the material with which the roof will be covered, or using standard values. Experts recommend using a step of 1 meter, if the area is large - 1.2. They must be built into vertical posts;
Layered rafters should hang slightly over the walls. This will help ensure additional protection houses made of logs or foam blocks from the effects of rain and snow. Upon completion of installation, the cornice is hemmed. To do this, you can use plastic siding for a log house, corrugated sheets or wooden boards;
When the fastening is complete, the temporary transoms are replaced with permanent brackets.

The cost of installing a rafter system by professionals varies from 1000 USD. up to ten. It all depends on the chosen design and size of the house.

Insulation and finishing

After completing the installation work, the attic with a sloping roof is insulated and finished. Thermal insulation technology is similar to other types of roofing structures. First placed on the beams vapor barrier film, waterproofing is laid on top of it. These surfaces are attached with an overlap, installation is carried out using thin small nails.

Roof waterproofing

For insulation can be used pressed mineral wool, foam plastic, penoizol and other materials. The heat insulator is installed in such a way that when installing it, the gaps between the beams remain visible - this will help with further finishing.

The finishing of a sloping roof is carried out depending on what material was chosen for the covering. Ondulin is very popular now - it tolerates temperature changes and exposure very well. ultraviolet rays. The cheapest and most accessible option is slate. But the easiest way to work on a sloping roof is with metal tile panels - this design requires constant trimming of the covering, but this is not necessary with tiles.

DIY broken roof: photo, video

Do-it-yourself sloping roof: device, options, installation. Insulation and finishing. Broken mansard roof. Photos, videos, drawings.

DIY broken roof

1 How to choose the angle of inclination
2 Drafting
3 Material
4 Construction stages
5 Sheathing and roofing pie

Among the variety of roofing structures, a sloping gable roof occupies a special place. Its peculiarity is the division of the slope into several planes, which makes it possible to use the space under the roof to construct an attic. Having a room under the roof will reduce the overall heat loss of the house. A do-it-yourself sloping roof can be built correctly only if you have competent calculations and follow all construction standards.

How to choose the angle of inclination

The angle of inclination of the attic roof

When choosing the angle at which the roof slopes are installed, you must consider:

type of roofing;
amount of precipitation and wind strength;
purpose of the room - for a living space, the height of the ridge should not be placed below 2.5 meters.

The optimal value for the upper slopes is 30–45 degrees, for the lower slopes – 60 degrees.

Drafting

Sloping roof project

Any construction begins with a drawing, and such a complex structure as a sloping roof will require drawing up detailed diagram with all dimensions and calculations. You can start by looking at photos and diagrams that will help you understand how to build a sloping roof structure. Knowing the dimensions of the building, the type of roofing and insulating material, you can use special calculators to calculate the dimensions of the components for the rafter system.

The consumption of material for roofing, as well as waterproofing, is calculated by the size of the roof area, which is calculated by adding the size of all slopes. The insulation layer for an attic roof should be at least 20 cm.

Glued laminated timber

Before making a sloping roof, select quality material for its construction. To do this, purchase dry laminated veneer lumber, the moisture content of which is 18–22%. Before installation, it undergoes mandatory treatment with an antiseptic and a fire retardant. Treatment with compounds is carried out on open space, the products are applied in two layers.

timber for mauerlat 200×200 mm, for struts 50×100 mm;
board 50×150 mm;
unedged board;
metal staples, angles, bolts, nails, screws;
slats for sheathing 25×50 mm;
vapor barrier membrane, insulation, waterproofing;
roofing material.

Construction stages

The Mauerlat is fixed

Mauerlat. Installation of the rafter structure is expected at the stage of wall construction. In the top row, special studs are laid for subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat, which is the basis of the roof. This timber is laid along the entire perimeter of the walls, prepared studs are inserted into the drilled holes and tightened with nuts. The pitch of the studs is two meters, the best option is if they are located between the rafters. Roofing material is placed under the Mauerlat, providing protection from moisture. To securely hold the structure, wire strapping is used.

Beams. Thick timber with a cross-section of 200×200 mm is laid directly on the mauerlat or in special pockets left in the masonry walls. The edges of the beams located on the masonry are coated with mastic. The beam will serve as a support for the vertical posts. They are attached to the Mauerlat with metal corners. Strict adherence to the horizontal level is required to obtain a high-quality base for the roof. You can change the position of the beam by placing boards.

Installation of rafters

Installation of rafters. The vertical stops on the gables are installed first. Their level is controlled using plumb lines. The racks are temporarily fixed with spacers. A cord is pulled between the exposed rafters and all remaining racks are installed with a step equal to the location of the beams. Purlins from the board are laid on the racks, they are fastened with corners and self-tapping screws. On top of the purlins, longitudinal ties are attached, connecting the parallel posts and completing the top trim. Before the final installation of the remaining rafters, the tie-rods are supported by struts.

The lower rafters are installed with support on the purlin and the mauerlat. To make the work of preparing the bars easier, a template is first made. A thin board is applied to the purlin and sawing is performed at the desired angle. All lower rafters are cut to pattern and installed. The lower part, lying on the Mauerlat, is cut out on site. For fastening, use plates or corners, tightening them with self-tapping screws or hammering them with nails.

Before installing the top hanging rafters, you need to mark the center of the roof. To do this, use a temporary stand, fixed in the center of the Mauerlat and pediment tightening. The top edge of the board will mark the center of the roof. A base for a template is applied to this board, according to which the cuts of the upper rafters will be made, the second edge of the workpiece rests on the purlin.

All upper rafters are the same size, so they are cut to the same pattern. The upper ends of the rafters are connected with scraps of boards, plates or bots. The lower part is inserted with a cut into the purlin and secured with corners. Each rafter leg is supported by a hanging post measuring 25x150 mm, which is attached to the junction of the rafters and to the tie.

The lower rafters are reinforced with permanent braces. To do this, use a 50x150 mm board, the lower end is cut at an angle and installed on the beam, the upper end is attached to the rafter with a bolt or pin. Having installed all the struts, remove the temporary supports.

Sheathing and roofing pie

After completing the installation of the rafter structure, it is necessary to correctly lay all the layers of the roofing pie. Initially, the rafters are sheathed with a vapor barrier membrane, starting from the bottom of the roof. The joints of the material are taped with tape. Then the insulation is laid. It is necessary to install vents between the roof insulation layer to ventilate the space. Poor ventilation will lead to condensation and dampness. The roofing covering should be selected taking into account its thermal insulation qualities, so the use of metal is not advisable. Choose safe ones as insulation non-flammable materials that are not exposed to moisture. Such materials include foamed polystyrene and foam glass. After insulation, waterproofing is installed.

The lathing is performed directly under the selected type of roofing.

The installation of a sloping roof will not only give the architecture of the house a special look, but will provide additional living space. Watching a video explaining the nuances of construction will help you complete the job correctly.

Small house with attic

House with an attic

Broken roof of a wooden house

Bathhouse with an attic sloping roof

Country house with attic

Garage roof

Do-it-yourself sloping roof - photo making

Learn how to make a sloping roof with your own hands. The article describes the technology for installing an attic sloping roof, taking into account design features.

Using an attic instead of a full second floor allows you to rationally use the available space and significantly expand the living area. There are many options for attics; the most popular of them is the sloping roof, which is not only aesthetically attractive, but also financially profitable. If you wish, you can build such an attic with your own hands.

Users often search:

What parts does a broken attic consist of?

The first stage of roof construction is design and calculation; Regardless of whether the project is ordered from a special organization or you plan to make a design drawing yourself, first of all you need to understand what main parts the broken attic consists of.

In essence, a sloping roof is a residential attic, sufficiently well insulated and protected from moisture and noise to make it comfortable to live in. Therefore, in design it differs slightly from an ordinary gable roof.

The following main elements of a sloping roof are distinguished:

vertical racks;
ties - horizontal beams;
rafters - stiffening ribs, which are the skeleton of the entire structure;
struts - diagonal beams supporting rafters;
Mauerlat - wooden beams with special fasteners connecting the structure to the walls of the house;
ridge run- a set of upper elements of the rafter system;
headstocks - fastenings that provide rigidity to hanging rafters;
contractions - horizontal struts that remove part of the load from the rafters;
sheathing - frame for fastening roofing material and insulation;
roofing - can be made of ceramic tiles, different types slate, corrugated sheets and many other materials;
heat, hydro and sound insulation.

Thus, the entire structure consists of a set right triangles. They are connected to each other by wooden beams. All the described elements can be easily found in the drawing of a broken attic.

Technical requirements for a sloping roof

The following requirements apply to sloping roofs:

the height of the attic walls must exceed 2.2 m;
good ventilation must be ensured so that moisture does not condense under the roof;
the roofing material should have a small mass;
the design must provide measures against the impact of additional load on the rafter system - that is, the roof elements must withstand not only their own weight, but also, for example, snow;
the attic loses heat faster than the lower floors, so special attention should be paid to thermal insulation;
to ensure fire safety all wooden beams and sheathing elements should be treated with fire retardants.

Types of rafter systems

The structure of a sloping roof is very simple - its slope seems to break into lower and upper parts, each of which is installed at its own angle. Most often they are mounted at an angle of 60–70° and 15–30°, respectively.

Based on the design features of the attic, these types of attic sloping roofs can be distinguished.

Two types of rafters are used: hanging and layered. The attic floor beams are installed slightly short of the edges of the walls of the lower floor. The lower slope is made of layered rafters, which are attached to the walls of the house using a Mauerlat. The frame of the attic walls is made from the racks. Such triangles are installed along the walls and connected with contractions. At the top they are joined by triangles of hanging rafters resting on a tie.
To increase the area of the room, the lower edges of the rafters can be extended outside the house. In this case, they will not be attached to the Mauerlat, but to the ceiling, which, in turn, is supported on the external walls of the house using the Mauerlat. The rafters must be supported by struts. The racks go deep into the floor beams by no more than a third of their thickness.
This sloping roof rafter system is distinguished by the fact that the upper triangles are made from layered rather than hanging rafters. The ties serve as supports for the struts of the upper triangles.

Calculation of a sloping roof

Before starting work, two calculations must be made:

determining the amount of required building materials;
calculation of the bearing capacity of the structure.

Determining how much material is needed is very simple due to the simple geometry of the sloping roof. Load-bearing capacity is not so easy to figure out. To calculate it, you need to take into account:

roof mass;
approximate mass of snow;
the mass of the sheathing;
mass of steam, hydro and heat insulating materials;
roof dimensions;
angles of installation of slopes;
step of installation of elements of the rafter system and roofing sheathing;
additional load: mass of people and equipment, windows, ventilation, etc.

Based on these data and using special programs, the load-bearing capacity is calculated. Depending on what load-bearing capacity is required, the cross-sectional area used in construction is selected wooden beam. If something doesn’t suit you, the project can be corrected by changing the rafter system, choosing a different roofing material, placing the rafters less frequently.

In most programs, the structure of a sloping roof can be visualized - the 3D model will immediately show how changes will affect the appearance of the attic.

What materials need to be prepared?

After developing the project, it will be clear what cross-section of timber should be used, what roofing material is best to choose, and what the roof sheathing should be like. You will have to purchase a wide variety of lumber: timber for forming the mauerlat, edged boards for the rafter system, boards for sheathing. They need to be selected correctly to ensure a durable and reliable design.

Tips for choosing lumber:

Coniferous wood species - pine, spruce - are best suited for attic construction - they are strong and rigid enough to withstand the entire load;
the wood must be well dried - its humidity should not exceed 20%;
the material must be free of knots, cracks, traces of biological damage and other defects.

Before installation, all wooden structures are treated with fire retardants and antiseptics, as well as impregnations against rotting. This treatment should be repeated periodically so that the load-bearing elements of the structure do not have to be replaced.

In addition to the main material, you need to stock up on metal fasteners to connect the rafters to the Mauerlat and to each other, insulating and roofing materials.

Roof installation

Mauerlat installation

The construction of a sloping roof begins with the installation of a mauerlat to which the ends of the rafters will be attached. The nuances of this stage vary depending on the material from which the lower floor is built - if its walls are stone, holes for anchors must be punched in them in advance and fasteners installed. The spacing between anchors should not exceed 2 m.

Waterproofing material is laid on the wall surface. Then the beam is marked, and holes are drilled at the fastener installation points. The Mauerlat is put on the anchors and tightened tightly with nuts.

Installation of floor beams

Installation sequence:

first, the outer beams are installed at the ends of the building;
strings are stretched between them to indicate the plane;
intermediate beams are installed.

Installation of racks

The racks must be positioned strictly vertically. The principle of operation is the same as in the case of floor beams - first the outer racks are mounted, then the intermediate ones in the same plane. The step between structural elements should not exceed 2 m. The racks are fixed with temporary spacers. The height of the beams is 10 cm more than the planned ceiling height.

Purlins made of edged boards are installed between the racks. The result should be a finished frame for interior walls attics.

Installation of puffs

The cross beams are connected not to the posts, but to the purlins, using metal roofing corners. If the width of the room is large, it is worth installing temporary spacers under each tie so that when walking on them during the construction of the upper slopes, the beams do not break or bend.

Installation of rafters

First, the lower rafters are installed. They are placed in the following order:

mounting points on the Mauerlat are outlined - the step between them should be 1–1.2 m;
fastening points are cut out on the rafter legs according to the template;
First, the outer rafters are attached, then, as before, the intermediate rafters are attached along the twine;
The struts are installed in accordance with the drawing.

The upper rafters are installed in the same way - according to the template. They are attached to puffs and connected to each other; a longitudinal connection with a ridge beam is required only if the length of the attic exceeds 10 m. Otherwise, you can get by with struts, with which the structure of the sloping attic roof will be quite rigid.

The last stages of work are covering the gables and attaching the sheathing for the roof. Window openings should be left in the gables (at least 1/8 of the total area of the external walls of the attic).

Structural insulation

All that remains is to lay the roofing pie on the finished frame. Its first layer is a vapor barrier, which prevents moisture from penetrating the insulation. Placed on a vapor barrier membrane thermal insulation material- it is recommended to use stone basalt slabs. They are laid in several layers with the joints shifted, which will protect against the occurrence of cold bridges. The size of the plates should be several cm more step between counter-lattice beams. To prevent the insulation from sagging and losing its performance characteristics, its density must be at least 35 kg/m3.

The insulation is covered on top with a waterproof membrane, which allows steam to pass through but does not allow liquid moisture to penetrate into the room. The roof is laid on top of the waterproofing layer - the specifics of its installation depend on the selected material.

After installing the roof, only the finishing touches will remain - installation of drainage systems, decorative finishing. Inside, the finishing material is also attached to the sheathing over the thermal insulation. The broken roof has been built. As you can see, it is quite possible to do this with your own hands - only the design and calculations will probably have to be entrusted to professionals.