OWN-ROOT FRUIT: HOW TO GROW A PEAR AND APPLE TREE FROM A SHAFT. In one of the previous articles, we already talked about the method of preserving the variety of your favorite apple tree (or other fruit tree) without grafting - using air layering. The method is certainly good, but there are others. Tell me, would you like apple and pear trees to multiply as simply as currants? I cut the cuttings, rooted, planted and order! Dreams, dreams… Not so unrealizable dreams, as it turned out. Gardeners tried to grow a pear or apple tree from a cutting, and many succeeded. We should also master this method, right? Grafted and own-rooted apple and pear trees fruit trees grafted in our gardens. In some nursery, a wonderful variety of apple or pear was grafted to some rootstock, they sold us a ready-made seedling, and we planted it with the hope of a harvest. However, hopes are not always justified. There are a lot of nurseries selling seedlings, and few people think about the compatibility of rootstock and scion. As a result, we often get sickly apple trees with small fruits that are unstable to winter cold. And pears can die from the incompatibility of the stock and scion. An alternative to grafted seedlings are own-rooted pears, apple trees, cherries, plums, etc. They are grown from cuttings of varietal trees, they do not need grafting, which means there are no compatibility problems for them. Own-rooted trees have two more advantages: they better tolerate high groundwater (very important for pears) and they are easy to propagate further, even by cuttings, even by layering, even through root shoots. We do not in any way claim that grafted seedlings are evil, and seedlings on their own roots are ideal for everyone. It also happens vice versa. Growing seedlings of pear and apple trees from cuttings is not a panacea for all troubles and problems, but just another way of vegetative propagation of fruit trees. What varieties of apple and pear trees take root well Not all varieties of apple and pear trees give roots equally well when propagated by green cuttings. Some take root better and faster, some take longer and worse. The smaller the fruit, the easier the cutting takes root. The best varieties pears for growing from cuttings: Lada, Moskvichka, Smart Efimova, Autumn Yakovleva, Memory Zhegalova. The best varieties of apple trees for growing from cuttings: Altai dove, Altai dessert, Altai ruddy, Aport Alexander, Aport blood-red, Vityaz, Gornoaltayskoye, Dolgo, Zhebrovskoye, Zhigulevskoye, Kitaika Saninskaya, Kuznetsovskoye, Dream, Moscow red, Father's renet, Nakhodka Lebedyanskaya , Pepinka Altai, Pepin saffron, Gift for gardeners, Ranetka Ermolaeva, Ranetka purple, Severyanka, Ural bulk, Flashlight. How to grow a self-rooted apple tree and a pear from a cutting Horizontal planting of a seedling One of the options for obtaining a self-rooted apple tree suggests doing without cuttings at all. But this requires a ready-made two- or three-year-old seedling of the desired variety. Which seedling - grafted or own-rooted - does not matter. In the spring we plant our seedling, placing it horizontally in the planting hole. The lateral shoots of the seedling should be pulled out of the pit, set vertically and tied to pegs. At the junction of the lateral shoots with the trunk, notches can be made, an annular incision with the removal of a strip of bark, or constriction with copper wire to accelerate root formation. The roots and trunk of the seedling are covered with soil as in the usual planting of an apple or pear tree. Any tree tends to grow upward, so the side shoots will begin to grow as independent trees, perhaps new vertical shoots will appear from the dormant buds of the seedling trunk. After two years, these shoots will give small roots at the base and on the trunk. And in the third year, each of them will have their own normal roots. After that, the seedlings can be separated from the mother plant and grown separately for 1-2 years. And if you want, you can experiment - do not separate the young shoots, leave them to grow in the form of a kind of hedge. Propagation of apple and pear trees by cuttings If we do not have a young seedling or we need seedlings of the same variety as the existing adult fruit-bearing apple tree, we will have to follow the path of cuttings. We will need the so-called green cuttings - young shoots, the lower part of which has already begun to stiffen, and the upper one remains green. On such shoots, all leaves except the top one should already be open. IN middle lane optimal timing cut cuttings fall, as a rule, in the second half of June, in cold regions with a long spring - at the end of June - beginning of July. Cuttings are best cut in the morning when they are saturated with moisture. The shoot is cut with a sharp grafting knife closer to the kidneys. The lower cut should be at an angle of 45° towards the kidney without cutting it off. The upper cut is made horizontally above the kidney. From one shoot, you can get two or three cuttings. Each cutting must have at least three leaves or two internodes. Most bottom sheet should be removed, leaving only the top two. The remaining leaves are shortened by half for less evaporation of moisture. If the internodes are short, the cutting is made with three internodes. Now green cuttings are kept in a solution of a rooting stimulator for 18 hours. It is advisable to put on a container with cuttings plastic bag to increase the humidity inside. During this time, you need to prepare a box for cuttings. The box should be about 30-35 centimeters high. At a height of 20-25 centimeters, nutrient soil (humus, compost, black soil) is poured into it. Then for the remaining 4-5 centimeters - sand calcined in the oven. Calcination is mandatory, the top layer must be sterile. Before planting, the substrate is shed (for this purpose, again, you can use a root stimulator). Prepared cuttings are buried in the sand by 1.5 - 2 centimeters. Deeper is not necessary, otherwise the cuttings may rot. The cuttings are planted so that their leaves do not touch each other, with the box or with the film with which it will be covered. This is important, a leaf stuck together with something is more likely to rot and pull the entire stalk along with it. The box is covered with a film and placed in a greenhouse or greenhouse. It is advisable to choose a place for a box that is light, but sheltered from direct sun rays. Now once a week it is necessary to ventilate the cuttings and constantly monitor the soil moisture. Both top and bottom layer should be moist (but not soggy). It is better to water the plantings from a spray bottle. Decayed leaves and cuttings, if any, are removed as soon as possible. In a month, the cuttings may already have the first roots. Now they can be aired more often, gradually accustoming to " fresh air". In autumn, a box with cuttings is buried in the ground in the garden flush with the edges. And the cuttings are covered with needles, peat or sawdust. The following year, young seedlings are planted on a separate bed for growing. And in two years they can already be planted on permanent place. There is one more folk way root cuttings of fruit trees: not in a box, but in a champagne bottle. This is done as follows: the green shoot is cut off completely at the very base, the bottle is filled with chilled boiled water, the shoot is placed in a bottle and tightly corked. For this purpose, var or wax is used. The bottle is installed in a pre-dug hole and covered with earth. Now cut off the top of the shoot, leaving two or three buds above the ground. From above, the seedling is covered with a film or a large plastic bottle. Also ventilate and water if necessary. After two or three years, a seedling from a bottle can be transferred to a permanent place: it should already have good roots of its own. From green cuttings, you can grow not only apple and pear trees, but also plums, cherries, cherry plums, and quince. Only cherries and apricots cannot be propagated by green cuttings. Let's try and experiment! We wish you success and great harvests!
This is about 400 varieties of garden roses of domestic and foreign selection and not greenhouse varieties. Indoor roses (greenhouse) in our gardens often turn out to be non-hardy and (or) unstable to diseases. We grow roses in the Noginsk district (east) of the Moscow region. The varieties that we offer have been growing in our open ground for more than one year.
Objectively:
- In own-rooted roses, it is impossible for wild-growing shoots to appear from the roots, as in grafted ones. That is, you do not need to constantly dig out the roots and carefully cut out the wild shoots.
- Rooted ones are practically eternal. There is a rose in Germany that is over 800 years old. We grow 4 roses of the Morning of Moscow variety, which were drawn more than 40 years ago. Paternal bush "Morning of Moscow" (grafted) lived only 3 years. Grafted roses live from 3 to 10 years with good care.
Subjectively, i.e. market realities:
Good, "correct" grafted roses were once grown in the USSR in accordance with the then existing GOSTs. Such roses were grown for 2-2.5 years on the roots of wild rose, already 2-3 years old (4-5 years in total). Rose hips, in order to suit our climate, should only be "canina" and not just any, but a specially selected line that does not produce shoots from the roots. Such roses grow well for several years (until they get tired of the freeloader from above - a cultivated rose). It is only interesting if anyone has seen these “correct” roses for sale for the last 15-20 years. We are not. The market demands savings. That's all they save. Someone at the growing time (6-8 months for the rosehip root + 2-3 months for the growth of the graft). Someone takes a wild rose, "what it was" in the nearest thickets. The most advanced organize the export of spent roses from foreign greenhouses after the winter forcing of flowers. They are cut, dipped in green paraffin (to give "freshness"), packaged in beautiful packaging, which does not always correspond to the variety, and is brought to us.
Problems, unfortunately, can be with roses from worthy European nurseries. You can get roses on a rootstock that does not hibernate with us. To save these varieties, you have to immediately root cuttings from them.
In this respect, own-rooted roses are beyond suspicion. They do not have a rootstock of unknown origin. Objective publications regarding the benefits of own-rooted roses can be found in Floriculture magazines for the 70-80s.
We sell roses grown in containers with leaves.
In spring 2019, prices for most roses will be as follows:
Prices for roses in containers:
- 0.5 liters (one-year-olds) - from 500 to 600 rubles, depending on the complexity of growing the variety.
- 1 liter (two-year-old) - 600-700 rubles.
In limited quantities, there are older roses, both grafted and on their own roots. They can be in containers from 4 to 10 liters. Availability and cost to be agreed.
Orders are brought to the house (between Dynamo and Dmitrovskaya metro stations) on the agreed day or self-delivery from a 60 km site is possible. along the Shchelkovo highway.
Rose seedlings of the first year, please note that depending on the variety, the bushes are different!
An example of seedlings of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd years.
One more example
Large containers in containers from 4 to 10 liters. In this case, an example of seedlings in 10 liter containers is presented.
Another example of rose seedlings.
Many buyers ask about the age of roses
We answer: we cut roses in May-June. In the process of growth, we transplant from a tiny pot, where the cutting was rooted - first at 0.25 liters, then at 0.5 liters. We grow until November - December in the greenhouse, then we send it to the basement for 2-3 months (we light it up if necessary). We get from the basement in February-March (according to the weather) and into the greenhouse. We sell in April-May with leaves. It turns out that the first year we grow a rose for 9-12 months. In nature, the rose grows from May to September-October, i.e. only 5-6 months and everyone thinks it's a year. It is not clear how to count in our case. In the summer, unsold roses are transplanted into containers of 1-2 liters and sold for next year. Roses in any offered containers are quite viable and grow well over the summer for further wintering in the ground with shelter.
We do not mail roses
The Post Office cannot guarantee the safety of live seedlings. After acquiring a plant, before planting in the ground, roses should be in the brightest place and watered as indoor plant. Our roses have a closed root system. And this is not at all what some "innovators" mean - dug out of the ground, cut off the roots and stuck it in a bag with sawdust or peat. Our roses are grown in containers (this was recorded by the photographs taken by us by the consumer magazine) from the very beginning of rooting. We do not hide from anyone how we grow, preserve and propagate our roses. We have already visited and filmed the magazine "Consumer - Garden Affairs", TNT channel for the transfer of "Instructions for Use". The magazine "Garden and Garden" gives our recommendations for the right purchase roses, care for them, shelter for the winter, propagation by cuttings.
Apple trees can be cut. Propagation by cuttings gives us own-rooted apple trees. Rooted apple tree - varietal apple tree, not grafted onto a wild, but having "its own roots".
I emphasize: this is not about vaccination. If we manage to root the cutting, we will get the same variety, but we will lose shape. That is, when I root a cutting cut from a dwarf melba, I get a melba, but already full-grown.
What are good rooted apple trees?
First, due to the lack of transplants, they develop a powerful root system. A good root system is the basis for the success of an apple tree.
Secondly, the root growth of such apple trees is also varietal. Grow at least an apple bush.
Thirdly, in my opinion, it is terribly curious to root a cutting of an apple tree.
How to grow a rooted seedling?
You can ring a varietal shoot on an adult apple tree, wrap it with polyethylene, fill the place with moist soil, and wait for the roots to form. And you can root the cutting.
I, in fact, was not going to do either one or the other, but I still had a Melba stalk from grafting under the bark. I updated the oblique cut, made a few longitudinal cuts in the bark from the same end, and, especially without bothering, wrapped the stalk in a damp (wrung out) cloth and placed it in a plastic bag so that it would not dry out. A spring stalk, he apparently had a desire to live, and now a callus (callus) has already appeared. The photo shows sagging on the cut - this is the callus. Roots form from it. If everything continues to go well, I will get my own root melba. Melba is one of my favorite apple varieties. Have you tried?
(I think to increase the probability, you can use all sorts of rooters ...)
Another interesting article and the method itself http://argumentiru.com/earth/n324/152445?type=all -
All gardeners know reliable way reproduction by cuttings - stuck a twig early in the spring, and it quickly took root. And by autumn, quite a decent bush grows. And what about the apple tree? Advise how and is it possible to grow a self-rooted apple tree without sophisticated equipment? Or pear?
Thank you, your reader, Mikhail Skvortsov, Stavropol
Indeed, the unpretentious currant is easily and naturally propagated by cuttings. And the apple tree is probably hindered by its "blue blood". It is not possible to quickly and efficiently obtain own-rooted material. Many scientific works and do promise a complete fiasco to such a process. However, our regular author and tireless experimenter Nikolai FURSOV has been receiving own-root planting material of fruit crops for several years with 90% efficiency! Today he shares his practical experience with AN readers and strongly advises to start propagating apple and pear trees right now.
Which of us has not tried to put twigs into the water and wait for the leaves, and then the roots? All gardeners who have tried to root cuttings of apple, pear, cherry and many other fruit and ornamental crops know that this is very difficult. Noble apple and pear trees do not want to easily take root. But nothing is impossible for true gardeners. “Let us ask and force” the apple tree to take root, and the result will be stunning.
The secret is simple - you need to stimulate the apple tree to concentrate hormonal growth substances in future cuttings. Their excess turns on new processes in cells. And as a result, under the favorable conditions we have created, the formation of the root system will begin.
So, let's stimulate the plant. To do this, firstly, go to the dacha right now, in winter. It is necessary to have time to take the necessary actions no later than two months before the start of active sap flow.
Secondly, select a well-ripened branch on the tree with
1-2 year old wood. Break the branch in half, organize a “closed fracture”. Perfect option- fracture to the core without damage to the cortex (see Fig. 1). But a partial fracture (see Fig. 2) of the cortex is also allowed. A long branch can be broken in several places. The ideal cutting length is 15–20 cm.
Thirdly, wrap the fracture site in a half-bent state with a dressing material: electrical tape, grafting tape, plaster, etc. You can first wrap the branch loosely and then break it. And fix it in this position, apply a fixing splint, tied to a wire or stick (see Fig. 3).
Fourth, leave the prepared cuttings until spring. During this time, the plant will begin to send to the fracture sites the very growth substances we need for tissue fusion. And these substances will accumulate an excess amount.
Fifthly, at the end of March - beginning of April, remove the "gypsum", unwind the strapping material and cut the cuttings at the fracture site.
Sixth, use plastic tall bottles (2 liter) dark color. Cut off the narrow neck, fill with 5-7 cm of melt or rain water, add two tablets activated carbon. Place cuttings in these containers (according to
10-12 pieces) and place on a light windowsill. And wait. At room temperature, after three weeks, a callus "bump" will form, and the roots will begin to actively grow.
They appear at the cut site, from under the kidneys buried in the water, on the bark.
When the roots are reached
5-7 cm long, plant cuttings in open ground into nutrient soil. It is better to create a shelter-greenhouse. Shade lightly, water regularly. Plants will grow very quickly, powerful specimens will form by autumn, quite corresponding to 2- and even 3-year-old seedlings. Good luck.
practical argument
I'm experimenting with different breeds plants for five years. According to his method, he cut almost all fruit trees: apple trees, pears, cherries, plums, apricots, lemongrass, actinidia. Many ornamental plants. For example, lilac, which is difficult to propagate vegetatively. I tried linden, maple, weigela, mock oranges, hazel. And everywhere the result of rooting is at the level of 70-90%! Those who have tried cuttings know that such a percentage is very high. And at the same time, I do without any fogging installations and growth stimulants. Try it, I'm sure you'll succeed. Write to us in the editors of "AN" about the results of your experiments with different cultures. Will wait.
Own-rooted grape seedlings are grown from annual lignified or green shoots, cut into cuttings of various lengths, most often 40 - 50 cm. Longer cuttings with deep planting do not form roots well at the lower node. To speed up the reproduction of valuable grape varieties, seedlings are grown from shortened cuttings (one- or two-eyed), harvested from green or lignified shoots.
Procurement of cuttings
The quality of seedlings depends not only on their care in school, but above all on the quality and freshness of the cuttings. Cuttings are harvested from pre-selected bushes, characterized by high and constant yield, without any damage by diseases, pests, frost or hail. It is advisable to harvest cuttings from the most productive shoots of the bush. top scores obtained by using shoots of medium growth strength for propagation, with a normal length of internodes characteristic of this variety, with a diameter in the upper part of the shoot 7 - 10 mm And overall length escape about 130 - 160 cm. Cuttings from too thin (diameter less than 5 mm) or too thick shoots (diameter more than 13 mm) take root much worse.
Only fully matured shoots are suitable for harvesting cuttings. The most viable and productive bushes give cuttings harvested from shoots grown on the 3rd - 5th and located above the nodes. The shoots developed from the 1st and 2nd eyes are less fruitful. Mature stepchildren, having the required thickness, are also quite suitable for harvesting cuttings.
It is best to cut the cuttings from the lower and middle parts of the shoots, since those taken from the upper part of the shoots take root worse and give low-quality seedlings due to a smaller supply of nutrients in them.
If stepchild shoots meet the requirements of the standard, they can also be used.
Cuttings should be harvested only in autumn (late October - early November), regardless of leaf fall. At later terms of harvesting cuttings, the eyes are preserved worse.
Before laying in storage, the vine should not be cut into cuttings. Only the remaining leaves, tendrils and stepchildren are removed on it, then tied in bunches of 100-200 pieces and stored until spring.
In practice, cases of propagation of grapes by annual cuttings with a heel are known. In this case, the cutting is cut off at the very base of the shoot. From one shoot only one cutting is obtained. Due to the convergence of the nodes at the end of the cutting, roots are abundantly formed in it.
You can also plant annual cuttings, cut with part of the two-year-old shoots on which they grow. This also forms many roots, mainly on two-year-old wood.
There are known cases of planting annual cuttings cut with a part of perennial wood. With this method of reproduction, the multiplication factor is very small, since only one cutting is formed from one shoot. In addition, infection of young plants is possible due to decay of old wood.
Use for propagation of two-year-old cuttings. If annual vines are insufficient for propagation, biennial vines can be used. This method of reproduction is common mainly in the Crimea. Two-year-old cuttings should have at least 1-2 eyes at the end, located on a one-year-old shoot. If cuttings are going to be planted in a permanent place, then their length should be at least 60 cm for the steppe regions of Crimea, 65 - 70 cm for foothills and 80 cm for the southern coast of Crimea. When planting cuttings in a school, their length should be equal to 40 - 45 cm.
Seedlings from two-year-old cuttings, with good care for them in the school, are distinguished by strong development due to the presence of a significant supply of nutrients in them.
Storing vines in the winter
Grape vines can be stored in basement or cellar areas, as well as in covered earthen trenches.
When laying the vines for storage, the floor of the room is covered with a layer of moist earth or sand 10 - 12 meters high. cm, and then a layer (5 - 6 cm) cuttings of the vine, pre-treated with a 3 - 5% solution blue vitriol. After that, the bunches of vines are laid horizontally without interbedding with any material. After laying, the stack is covered on all sides with small trimmings of the vine (layer thickness 10 - 12 cm), treated with copper sulphate.
If the vine is supposed to be stored in a dry room, then, in order to prevent drying out, another layer of wet sand or earth is poured onto the trimmings 12-15 meters high. cm.
Trenches for storing long vines make a depth of 110 - 120 cm, for shorter ones - smaller ones; trench width 1.5 - 2 m. With such dimensions on one square meter trenches fit 2.5 - 3 thousand vines. Bundles of vines are installed vertically in a trench, tightly to each other, then fall asleep wet sand or earth. If the trench walls are too dry, they are moistened (the thickness of the moistened layer is 10 - 15 cm). In the presence of vines damaged by necrosis, this method of storage is not applicable.
Of particular interest is the Bulgarian way of storing vines in winter. In this case, the bunches of vines are placed vertically, the vines fall asleep for 15 - 20 cm from the base with wet sand or immerse their ends in water for 10 - 12 cm. This method of storage prevents damage to the vines by spotted necrosis and ensures good preservation of the eyes.
For grafting, do not use the lower eyes of the vine, which were in the sand or water, and one or two of the upper ones.
The storage temperature may vary from 0° to +7°. To lower it, the room is ventilated. When drying, the sand is moistened, for which it is removed, watered and covered again. Watering the sand in place should not be, as the water will flow to the vines. Once or twice during the winter, the vines are shifted and aired. If excessive moisture is observed during storage and the vines begin to grow moldy, it is necessary to shift their bundles, dry the sand and regularly ventilate the room.
If the vines are going to be stored during the winter in an earthen trench, then the bottom and walls of it are covered with trimmings of vines (layer 4 - 5 cm), treated with a solution of copper or iron sulphate. Bunches of vines are laid on them, without interbedding them with sand or earth, and a layer of scraps 12–15 thick is again poured on top. cm. After that, the trench is covered with earth or clay and a canopy is made above it or a groove is made around it to drain water. For good ventilation, vents are arranged in the trench.
If the vine is stored in trenches, observing the conditions listed above, it is possible to keep all the eyes healthy by spring.
Before laying the vines for storage, it is necessary to analyze the eyes and determine the degree of ripening of the shoots, since sometimes the eyes partially die during the first autumn frosts, long before the vines are laid for winter storage.
How to determine the degree of ripening of shoots
When determining the degree of ripening of shoots, a number of signs are used.
In well-ripened shoots, the color of the bark is bright, uniform, without dark or dark green spots, more intense at the nodes.
Shoots have a normal length of internodes - 9 - 13 cm.
When bent, the ripened vine does not break, but crackles due to good development cork layer.
In well-ripened shoots, the diaphragm is dense and the same color as the wood. In unripened shoots, the diaphragm is loose, light green or brownish in color.
The amount of starch in the vine is also an indicator of the degree of maturation of the shoot. It is determined by staining sections of cuttings with a 1% iodine solution. For this purpose, the ends of the cuttings are immersed in an iodine solution for 1 minute. Starch stains dark purple with iodine. Well-ripened vines containing a lot of starch acquire a solid black-blue color of bast and wood from iodine. Shoots, slightly matured, are stained with iodine c. Brown color; only the core rays are stained in dark purple.
The iodine-starch method for determining the degree of ripening of shoots is applicable only in autumn or late spring, when the bulk of carbohydrates in the vine is contained in the form of starch. In winter and late autumn, part of the starch turns into sugar, which does not react to iodine.
The degree of maturation of the vine is also determined by the ratio of the diameters of the wood and the core of the shoot. In well-ripened shoots, the thickness of the wood and bark in the thinnest part of the shoot should be 2 times the core.
Preparing cuttings for planting
1 - 1.5 months before planting, the cuttings are removed from storage and the condition of the eyes and internal tissues of the shoots is checked. For this purpose, on the cuttings selected for the sample, each eye is cut along with a razor or a sharp knife. On the cut, the main and, as a rule, two replacement kidneys are usually clearly visible. It is not recommended to make a transverse section through the peephole, since in this case not all the buds in the peephole are visible. In addition, if the cut of the eye is too low, the underlying layer, which in all cases is green, can be mistaken for the preserved kidneys. The living buds of the eye on the cut also have a bright green color.
The peephole is considered alive if the main bud or at least one replacement bud is preserved in it, since in this case shoots will develop from them. Replacement buds in the eyes are usually less damaged than the main ones. The presence of dark dots in the center of the main or replacement buds indicates the death of the growth cone, and such eyes are classified as damaged.
If damage to the eyes does not exceed 20%, then the cuttings are quite suitable for planting. With their greater death, the cuttings are stratified before planting.
Before landing, it is important to know not only the condition of the eyes. The survival rate of cuttings is greatly influenced by their humidity. Dried cuttings lose their ability to root. The cuttings have normal moisture when, after soaking, droplets of liquid are released on the surface of a fresh cut with light pressure with a knife blade. The bast has a green color.
In dried cuttings, the bast tissues are painted whitish-yellow. Such cuttings are soaked for 3 - 6 days in water at a temperature of 16 - 18 °. If their moisture is fully restored, then they are suitable for planting. If the buds on heavily dried cuttings do not swell after 8-10 days of soaking, the cuttings are unsuitable for planting.
It is not recommended to plant cuttings damaged by spotted necrosis. Planting cuttings with a dark core and a darkened diaphragm should also be avoided, as they do not take root well and weak plants develop from them.
Immediately before planting, the vine is cut into cuttings or cuts are updated on them.
The length of the cuttings should usually correspond to the depth of planting grapes adopted for a given area and soil. It ranges from 50 to 70 cm. Shanks longer than 50 cm take root much worse than shorter ones. Therefore, if a deeper planting of grapes is necessary, the cuttings should be grown due to the growth of the seedling during the first year after planting it in a permanent place. This can only be done with a native-rooted grape culture.
When cutting cuttings, the lower cut is made under the knot, and the upper cut is 1.5 - 2 cm above the eye, with an inclination in the opposite direction from it. The lower cut on the handle is made very carefully so as not to crush the diaphragm. Therefore, it is recommended to make a cut by 1 - 2 mm below the node. It is not necessary to blind the eyes on the cuttings, since this technique does not improve root formation. In addition, undeveloped eyes gradually become dormant and can be useful in rejuvenating bushes.
For better rooting, the cuttings are subjected to pre-planting treatment - they are soaked, kilch, stratified, treated with growth stimulants.
Soaking cuttings
The cut cuttings are immersed for 2/3 of their length in water heated to a temperature of 15 - 16 °. The number of days the cuttings are soaked depends on their moisture content (usually 2-5 days).
The soaking of the cuttings is stopped when droplets of liquid appear on their fresh cut without pressing with a knife blade. The cut is made with a sharp knife, since it is difficult to notice droplets of moisture on an uneven surface. It is not recommended to soak the cuttings for too long, so as not to wash out the nutrients. Water is changed every 3 days.
In order to better root the cuttings, it was previously recommended to furrow their lower nodes, that is, to apply small scratches with a special nail file. This technique can be successfully replaced by kilching cuttings, their pre-planting stratification or treatment with stimulants, the action of which is much more effective than furrowing.
Kilchevanie and stratification of cuttings
The purpose of kilchevaniya is to accelerate the formation of root rudiments on the heels of the cuttings with some delay in the opening of the eyes. The fact is that when planting, the upper eyes, being in more favorable conditions for blooming, germinate due to the nutrients of the cutting at a time when the roots have not yet formed. Using the reserves of moisture and nutrients in the cutting, the green shoot dries out even before the development of the roots.
Killing of cuttings can be carried out in cold and hot greenhouses, in greenhouses with top heating, in greenhouses with bottom cooling.
In the southern regions of viticulture, cold greenhouses are used for kilching. For this purpose, bunches of cuttings after soaking are placed in pits with their lower ends up at a distance of 12 - 15 cm from glazed frames, covered with moistened structural soil or sand in a layer of 8 - 10 cm and covered with frames. Under one standard greenhouse frame they are placed 4 - 5 thousand. The soil during kilchevaniya periodically watered and loosened after each watering.
The temperature in greenhouses is regulated by raising or lowering the frames. Best Temperature during kilchevaniya at the heel of the cuttings 18 - 20 °. With more high temperature(30 - 32 °) roots are formed faster, but in smaller numbers.
Kilchevanie lasts about 16 - 18 days and is considered complete when 70% of the cuttings on the heel node form root tubercles or callus influxes. It is impossible to allow the roots to grow out during kilching, since long roots break off when planted in a shkolka and in the vast majority die off, and the cuttings do not have enough nutrients to form new ones.
In the northern areas of viticulture, cuttings are kilchuyut in hot greenhouses. Depth of greenhouse pits 110 - 120 cm. Manure is poured into the bottom of the greenhouse with a layer of 50 - 60 cm. Then, as soon as the temperature in the greenhouses rises to 30 °, the manure is covered with a layer of wet sand or earth (17 - 18 cm), the cuttings are placed with the upper ends down. The gaps between the cuttings are covered with sawdust or moss, leaving the upper eyes open.
Good results are obtained when cuttings are kilched in trenches using upper biological heating. The trench is made with a depth of 15 - 16 cm more than the length of the cuttings, width - 120 - 150 cm. Its length depends on the number of cuttings to be kilchevanie.
The cuttings are installed in the trench with the lower ends up. Then they are covered with moist humus soil. Cuttings cannot be covered with pure humus. This will cause burns on the root primordia and callus. Moss and straw are also unsuitable for this purpose, since with excessive access to oxygen, large influxes of callus are formed, which worsen the laying of roots.
After backfilling, the earth is additionally (very carefully) moistened. Then the ditch is covered with a wooden lattice or stakes, and the distance of the lattice from the soil surface on the cuttings should be 7 - 10 cm. This air gap serves as a temperature regulator. Freshly lit manure is poured onto the grate with a layer of 30 - 40 cm.
During kilchevaniya it is necessary to monitor the temperature. For this purpose, during the laying of the cuttings, a tube is installed at the heels, the second end of which goes to the surface of the manure. To measure the temperature, a thermometer is lowered down the tube. Less desirable, but possible, is to kilch cuttings in an ordinary pit with upper biological heating, filling them with moist humus soil.
Pits and trenches intended for kilchevaniya are dug in places well lit by the sun.
Preplant stratification of cuttings is most often resorted to in case of large damage to the eyes on the cuttings (more than 20 percent). To do this, after soaking, the cuttings are placed in boxes, sprinkled with wet sawdust, and in the lower part with earth (7 - 8 cm) so that the upper eye is open, and kept at a temperature of 20 - 25 ° until the eyes germinate. Sprouting of eyes is most successful in trenches with good lighting (in direct sunlight).
At the growth points of young green shoots that have grown from the eyes during stratification, growth substances are produced that stimulate root formation on the cuttings. Stratification lasts 20-25 days and is considered complete when approximately 70% of the cuttings form roots at the lower node. The cuttings germinated in this way can be planted in a school without covering the green sprouts with earth.
The use of growth stimulants
Treatment of cuttings with growth stimulants has a positive effect on their rooting. The effect of growth promoters is that they seem to increase the flow of water to the cells and activate the movement of nutrients in the plant. The most common root formation stimulants are: indoleacetic acid (heteroauxin or IAA), alpha-naphthylacetic acid (NAA), 2,4-dichlorophenoxybutyric acid (DM), 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (DU), etc.
When using growth stimulants, it must be remembered that the success of the case depends on the correct concentration of the solution, the time the cuttings are kept in it and the temperature (not higher than 22 - 25 °).
The following concentrations of solutions of stimulating substances and the duration of soaking matured cuttings in them were established: IAA - from 0.02 to 0.03% (200 - 300 mg for 1 l), processing time 24 hours; NAA - 0.0025% (25 mg per 1 l), process 24 hours; DM - from 0.00008 to 0.0002% (0.8 - 2 mg for 1 l), duration of exposure 24 hours; DU - from 0.00005 to 0.0001% (0.5 - 1 mg per 1 l), processing time 12 hours.
An increase in concentration can be detrimental to the cuttings. The cuttings are soaked in a water-alcohol or aqueous solution of a stimulant.
Preparation of alcohol solutions. A sample of the drug is dissolved in a small volume of wine alcohol (0.5 mg of alcohol per 5 - 10 mg IUK and NUK and for 1 - 2 mg DM and DU). Alcohol solutions of stimulants are well preserved in a cool and dark room for a long time. Then, immediately before use, alcohol solutions are diluted with water to the required concentration.
Preparation of aqueous solutions. Pour into glassware 2 l water, bring it to a boil, pour a sample of the drug into boiling water and stir until completely dissolved. After that, the solution is poured into a vessel with a previously known volume and water heated to 25-30 ° is added in small portions with continuous stirring.
The cuttings are treated with stimulants on the day they are planted or laid for stratification. The temperature of the solutions is 15 - 17 °. Treated cuttings should be protected from direct sunlight. Aqueous solutions of IAA and NAA are stored for no more than seven days.
Site selection and pre-planting soil preparation for shkolka
The school is usually placed on a warm, well protected from the wind and sun-heated area. The best for shkolka are sandy or sandy, well-permeable soils. Chernozem and loamy soils are also suitable. Stony, calcareous and heavy clayey, poorly heated and poorly permeable soils should not be taken under the school.
In cases where heavy clay soils still have to be used, they must be improved by introducing a large amount (40 - 60 T/ha) organic fertilizers. If nibbling pests (beetle larvae, wireworms) are found on the site allocated for shkolka, during pre-planting tillage it is necessary to add hexachloran to the furrows at the rate of 15 - 20 G for 1 running meter.
The size of the plot for the school depends on the number of planted cuttings. The distance between rows in shkolka is usually set at about 1 m, and between cuttings in a row - 10 - 12 cm. If the area for the school is very small, and it is desirable to grow as many seedlings as possible, you can apply a two-line planting of cuttings. In this case, the distance between rows is assumed to be 80 - 100 cm, between lines - 15 - 20 cm, and between the cuttings - 10 - 12 cm.
Since autumn, deep plowing has been done on the site (on personal plot- digging) by about 45 - 50 cm. During plowing or digging the soil under the school, it is very good to apply 2 - 4 kg organic fertilizers per 1 sq. area meter. As an organic fertilizer, you can use humus, compost, feces (at the rate of 1 - 1.2 kg per 1 sq. meter). Straw unripened manure should not be applied, as this can cause damage to young roots on the cuttings with root rot and nitrogen starvation of young plants. TO organic fertilizers it is good to add granular or powdered phosphate fertilizers at the rate of 12 G per 1 sq. meter.
On soils poor in potassium, 40% potassium salt should be added to manure at the rate of 15 - 20 G per 1 sq. meter. In the spring, the surface of the site for the school is leveled.
Planting cuttings in school
Cuttings that have not undergone kilching or stratification can be planted early in the school, as soon as soil conditions allow. If the cuttings are kilched or were on preplant stratification, they are planted when the soil temperature is at a depth of 20 - 25 cm will reach 12 - 13 °.
For better rooting of cuttings, before planting, their lower ends are immersed in a mash, consisting of two parts of clay and one part of mullein, diluted with water to a creamy state. To the mash, you can add heteroauxin at a concentration of not more than 0.01 - 0.02%.
The root system of the cutting develops the better, the closer to the surface of the soil is its heel. The depth of planting cuttings in shkolku - 30 - 35 cm. In the northern regions of viticulture, as well as on heavy, poorly permeable, poorly warmed soils and in places of excessive moisture, cuttings are planted obliquely. For this purpose, when digging grooves, one of the walls (often the northern one) is cut at an angle of 45 °. In other areas of viticulture, cuttings are planted vertically in grooves.
When digging the grooves, the soil is thrown to the side opposite to that in which the cuttings are installed during planting. In this way, knocking of the cuttings from their places during backfilling of the grooves is avoided.
On heavy, poorly warmed soils, cuttings can be planted vertically, but in open grooves. Do it in the following way. During planting, the cuttings are sprinkled with earth only half the depth of the groove. Then, after each watering, the groove is covered with soil with a layer of 5 - 7 cm. Planting in open grooves is recommended if the cuttings are kilched and stratified.
There are two main ways to manually plant cuttings in a shkolka: planting in an open furrow and planting in a closed furrow.
When planting in an open furrow, they are installed under one wall, then sprinkled with a layer of earth (6 - 7 cm) and trample. After that, 2-3 buckets are watered per 1 linear meter. meter. Simultaneously with irrigation, 10 G superphosphate, 7.5 G ammonium sulfate, 4 G potassium salt and 4 - 5 kg humus per linear meter of furrow. After the water has been absorbed, the furrow is completely filled up, the cuttings are spudded so that their upper eye is open. In places that are abundantly moistened, the cuttings can not be spudded and the top 2 eyes can be left open. In areas where dry winds are observed, the tops of the cuttings are covered with a layer of soil in 2 - 3 cm to prevent drying of young seedlings.
If the cuttings are planted in a shkolka at a later date, when the soil is already well warmed up, the second method of planting the cuttings is used - in a closed furrow. Furrow depth with this planting method - 35 - 40 cm. During the cutting of furrows, fertilizers are applied in the same quantities as when planting in an open furrow. Then the furrows are filled with water and cuttings are stuck into the liquid mud. After soaking up water, the cuttings are spudded.
Instead of hilling, waxing of the upper part can be applied (15 - 20 cm) cuttings. The planting of cuttings or grafts over large areas in collective farms and state farms is carried out mechanized by special machines.
In order not to confuse varieties during planting, small gaps are left between them, and the beginning and end of each variety are marked with labels.
School care
The high survival rate of plants in shkolka is ensured by the implementation of all agricultural practices for the care of the soil and cuttings. School care consists in performing the following work: tillage, weed control, watering, fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers, removal of superficial roots (katarovka), pest and disease control, pinching the tops in order to accelerate the formation of plants, pinching and chasing shoots.
Soil cultivation. After planting the cuttings, the soil between the rows is loosened. Then, during the summer, this operation is repeated after each watering and as weeds appear in rows and between rows.
School irrigation. If there is no rain and soil moisture drops to 60% of field capacity, the school needs to be watered.
In practice, the timing of irrigation is set as follows: if the soil compressed into a lump is thrown from a height of 1 m on the ground and it crumbles into several large lumps, the moisture content of such soil is about 60% of the field moisture capacity and watering should be done.
Usually, on chernozem soils, shkolka is watered 3-4 times, on sands more often - 5-6 times during the summer. During watering, the soil should get wet to the depth of the roots (30 - 70 l water per 1 sq. meter). Watering is combined with top dressing.
Top dressing. During the first and second dressings, they are applied from 100 l water 250 G superphosphate, 200 G ammonium nitrate and 150 G potassium salt. At the third top dressing, for better ripening of the shoots, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded.
In the first half of summer, you can use slurry, previously fermented for two weeks (per 100 l water take 2 buckets of mullein, when watering the mixture is diluted 100 l water).
Good results are obtained by foliar feeding of plants in shkolka. To this end, while spraying the school with Bordeaux liquid, 7% of an aqueous extract of superphosphate, 1.5% potassium chloride and 0.5% ammonium sulfate or 0.3% ammonium nitrate are added to the solution.
Solution preparation technique foliar feeding next: for cooking 100 l solution 7 kg powdered superphosphate is poured into a barrel 50 - 60 l water; for better dissolution in water, superphosphate is stirred several times, and then the solution is allowed to settle. After that, an aqueous extract of superphosphate is poured into another container and 1.5 kg potassium salt, 0.3 kg ammonium nitrate (or 0.5 kg ammonium sulfate) and 1 kg copper sulphate (blue stone). Then milk of lime is added to the resulting solution until it becomes neutral. In order to check the reaction of the solution, it is necessary to immerse a shiny metal object (knife, nail) into it. The darkening of the part of the object dipped into the solution indicates that the solution should be added milk of lime. If the wetted part of the knife or nail does not darken, then the solution is neutral and suitable for spraying.
After that, the volume of the solution, adding water, is brought to 100 l and sprayed grape plants just as it is usually done with Bordeaux liquid. For foliar feeding to the solution Bordeaux mixture it is possible, in addition to nitrogen, phosphorus and potash fertilizers, to add trace elements: boron, manganese and zinc (100 G each element by 0.1 ha, schoolchildren).
Removal of superficial roots (katarovka). In order for the lower roots to develop well on the cuttings, it is necessary to remove the roots developing on 2-3 upper nodes during the summer. With a shallow planting of cuttings, it is not necessary to do a roll. With the usual planting of cuttings, the cut is carried out two or three times during the summer: the first time - as soon as the roots form on the upper nodes of the cutting (usually in June), the second time - in July and the third time - in early August.
The knolls after the appearance of green shoots on the cuttings are gradually reduced, and after the third cut they are finally raked and the stems of the cuttings are left open for better lignification and hardening. The lowering and complete loosening of the mounds should be done in cloudy weather so as not to cause burns on the tender parts of the shoots. The roots are cut off with secateurs during the cutting, and at the same time, coppice shoots are removed from the lower eyes of the cutting.
Chasing escapes. The purpose of minting is to create favorable conditions for better ripening of shoots of seedlings. They begin it during the autumn slowdown in the growth of shoots, which is accompanied by the alignment of their tops, while during the period of vigorous growth of shoots, their tops are usually curved. Most often, the minting of shoots is carried out at the end of August - the first half of September. Only well-developed shoots are minted (at least 50 cm). When chasing, the top of the shoot is removed with 3-5 underdeveloped leaves adjacent to it.
To accelerate the formation of plants in shkolka, pinching and pinching shoots is used. Pinching shoots is to remove the top of the shoot with 2 - 3 leaves adjacent to it. Pinch shoots in June over 4-5 leaves. As a result of pinching, usually strong stepchildren develop from the 2 upper stepson buds located at the base of the leaf petiole. At the same time, the stem of the seedling thickens, the root system strengthens.
If, after pinching, many stepchildren develop on the shoots, then some of them are removed, leaving no more than 3-4 shoots on each plant. Well-ripened stepchildren are not removed when preparing seedlings for planting, but are used to accelerate the formation of young bushes.
Growing own-rooted seedlings from shortened cuttings
For faster propagation of any particularly valuable grape variety, shortened cuttings (one- and two-eye) are used. Before planting in a school, they are first germinated and rooted in greenhouses or hotbeds for 45 - 60 days, so they start cutting shortened cuttings in late February - early March.
Length of one-eyed cuttings 3 - 4 cm, the eye is in the middle; length of two-eyed cuttings 5 - 15 cm, the lower cut is made under the node, and the upper cut is 1 - 1.5 cm above the eye. Cuttings from the first three lower nodes should not be cut, as the eyes on them are poorly developed.
Before planting, one-eyed cuttings are germinated in the sand. The eye is covered with a layer of sand in 1 - 2 cm. Two- and three-eyed cuttings are stratified before planting, for which, after soaking, they are placed vertically in boxes, covered with wet sawdust or sand so that the upper eye is open, and placed in a greenhouse or greenhouse. During stratification, the temperature in the room is maintained within 20 - 22 °, high humidity air (90 - 95%). Lighting must be good.
When 60 - 70% of the cuttings form the beginnings of roots, the stratification is stopped, and the cuttings are planted in humus soil, in paper cups, humus earth or peat cubes.
Paper cups are prepared as follows. Mulch paper or thick wrapping paper is cut into strips 18 - 20 wide cm and length 30 - 35 cm. A cylindrical mold is preliminarily prepared from thin sheet iron (height 14 - 16 cm, diameter 7 - 8 cm), which is filled with earth, then wrapped in paper, bending its ends. After that, the mold is removed, and the earth is compacted by tapping the bottom of the cup on the table. In the manufacture of cups, 50% humus and 3-5% river sand are added to the soil in the manufacture of cups.
In the manufacture of humus-earth cubes to 60% sod land add 40% (by volume) of humus. In addition, for each bucket of the mixture add 150 G fresh cow dung, 40 G superphosphate and 20 G ammonium sulphate.
For peat cubes, take 65% of well-decomposed peat, 35% of sod land and minerals as much as for humus-earth cubes.
For the manufacture of cubes, a well-moistened earthen mass is placed in a special mold with 5-6 cm nests and slightly compacted. Then the cubes are pushed out of the nests.
When planting in cups or cubes of one- or two-eye cuttings, the upper eye should be 2 - 2.5 cm above ground level. After that, cups or cubes are placed on a rack and covered with sand up to the top eye. If the cuttings are germinated without cubes, then they are also planted in the sand, poured on the rack. After planting, the sand is watered warm water(25 - 30°). The optimum air humidity during germination is 65 - 70%.
On the 25th - 30th day after planting the cuttings, when the length of the shoots reaches 7 - 8 cm, start hardening plants. After hardening, they are planted in a school.
Planting is best done on cloudy days or in the evening. Plants in cups or cubes are planted so that the edges of the cup or cube are 3-4 cm below ground level. Planting depth 20 - 22 cm; plant only in an open furrow. After planting, the plants are spudded so that the leaves are open. Further care for the shkolka is the same as with a normal landing.
Growing seedlings from green cuttings
This method of reproduction is used quite rarely, as it requires a lot of attention and painstaking work. For green cuttings, the main and stepson shoots are used, as well as their tops, which are removed during fragmentation, chasing and pinching. Cuttings begin to be harvested when the length of the main shoots is more than 30 cm, and stepchildren - when 4-5 leaves develop on them.
This work is best done early in the morning, in the evening or on cloudy days. It is very important that green cutting not wilted, otherwise he will not be able to take root. The shoots cut from the bushes with leaves are cut into cuttings in a cool place. If the mother bushes grow in greenhouses, then the cuttings are cut in April.
The shoot is cut through each node above the kidney slightly obliquely, half of the plate is cut off at the leaf.
If the bushes grow in normal conditions, cuttings are harvested later, in June, with a greater length of shoots. The lower cut is made under the knot, and the upper cut is made above the knot, leaving no spike.
After that, the cuttings are installed with their lower ends in the water and planted in a greenhouse or hotbeds. If the cuttings are going to be rooted in a greenhouse, they arrange greenhouses on the racks. Broken brick or pebbles are poured into the bottom of the greenhouse with a layer of 3 - 5 cm for drainage, then a layer (3 - 4 cm) of structural soil, and on top coarse-grained sand with a layer of 4 - 5 cm. After that, the racks are covered with greenhouse frames, the distance between the frame and the sand surface is set to 12 - 15 cm.
After rooting, the cuttings are transplanted for further cultivation. You can grow cuttings without transplanting; in this case, a layer of earth is poured in the greenhouse at 15 - 17 cm.
During rooting, good lighting, moderate temperature and high humidity are necessary.
Greenhouses for rooting cuttings are prepared in the same way as for garden seedlings, pouring 18 - 20 cm sod land and 3 - 4 cm sand. 250 - 400 cuttings are placed under one standard frame. Distance between rows 8 - 10 cm, and in a row between plants 6 - 8 cm. Planting depth of cuttings 1.5 - 2 cm.
The first 8 - 10 days after planting, it is important to protect the cuttings from decay and wilting. To this end, the inner wall of the greenhouse is systematically sprayed with water; the moisture content of the sand is maintained within 70 - 75% of its total moisture capacity.
During rooting, the temperature in greenhouses and greenhouses should be 24 - 27 °. On sunny days, to prevent overheating of the cuttings, the glass is covered with shields or whitened. After 12 - 15 days, the plants are planted in a school, after hardening them for 4 - 5 days by removing the frames and replacing spraying with water by irrigation.
cuttings early dates blanks after rooting are planted in humus pots or paper cups, and then at the end of May, together with them, in a school. Cuttings harvested later (June) are planted after rooting in cold greenhouses. The temperature in greenhouses is maintained at 25 - 30°, soil moisture is not lower than 50% of full capacity.
Simultaneously with watering, the plants are fed (3-4 times), adding 100-120 G superphosphate, 70 - 80 G ammonium sulphate and 40 - 50 G potassium salt to 10 l water. By autumn, watering is reduced, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded from top dressing. In late autumn, the seedlings are dug up and stored in the usual way.
In spring, seedlings with a mature growth of more than 25 cm, planted immediately in a permanent place.
Plants are planted at the desired depth, gradually growing the bole due to green growth. For this purpose, when planting around the seedling, a hole is left. When growing the bole after the development of green shoots, 2-3 strong ones are left, the rest are broken out. Then, with the length of the left shoots 45 - 50 cm they pinch the tops to thicken the trunk.
Seedlings with an increase of less than 25 cm, planted for growing in peat pots and placed in greenhouses or greenhouses. Then in May they are planted in a permanent place, where they carry out the final growing of plants, as described above.
The use of Chinese layering for grape propagation
This method of propagation of grapes is suitable only for areas of native root culture of grapes. It is used for accelerated reproduction of especially valuable grape varieties. With this method of reproduction from one bush, you can get 10 - 12 pieces of own-rooted seedlings.
Layers are laid in early spring. Use only strong, well-ripened shoots. For this purpose, a ditch is dug from the bush in the direction of the row with a depth and width of 40 - 45 cm. Then the soil from the ditch is mixed with 8 - 10 kg humus, 200 - 300 G a mixture of superphosphate and potassium sulfate and fill up the ditch to 3/4 of its depth. On the vine intended for laying, the eyes are removed to the place where it is immersed in the groove.
The vine is laid horizontally, pinned to the ground and poured over it 7 - 8 cm loose earth. Two weeks after laying, the eyes germinate; in addition, the development of roots begins at each node. During the summer, two or three liquid top dressings are produced. The first dressing is given at the end of May, the second - in mid-June and the third at the beginning of July. Water before top dressing is passed through humus in order to flush out nutrients from it. In autumn, after the leaves fall, the laid shoot is dug up and cut into separate seedlings.
Storage of seedlings in winter
Seedlings are sorted before storage. When sorting seedlings, the best of them are selected - first-class. These include seedlings without mechanical or any other damage, with a mature growth of at least 35 - 40 cm and at least 4 - 5 roots at the heel, each with a thickness of more than 1 mm and a length of at least 15 - 20 cm arranged in a circle.
In grafted grape seedlings, in addition to these qualities, a complete circular fusion of the scion with the rootstock must be obligatory. Without this, the seedling is not suitable for planting or reschooling.
The second grade includes seedlings that do not have signs of any damage, but with a weaker growth and root system. It is better not to lay a vineyard with second-class seedlings, as they will develop into weak, low-yielding bushes. Such seedlings should be planted a second time in the school (reschool) and the best of them should be selected the next year.
In winter, seedlings can be stored in trenches or basements. Preliminarily, wet sand is poured onto the floor with a layer of 5 - 7 cm. Bunches of seedlings are laid horizontally on it. For the convenience of backfilling seedlings with sand, they can be laid in two rows with roots to roots. Wet sand cover only the roots of seedlings.
During the winter, it is necessary to systematically check the condition of the seedlings. To prevent mold and drying, they need to ventilate the room and moisten the sand as needed. Watering sand is not recommended; it must be removed from the seedlings, moistened, and then poured over their roots again.
For winter storage, seedlings can also be laid in trenches: on chernozem soils with a depth of about 80 cm, and on lighter and sandy soils - at least 100 cm. Trench width - 1.5 m.
Before laying seedlings, the bottom and walls of the trench are moistened (the thickness of the moistened layer is 15 - 20 cm). Bundles of seedlings are laid in rows, obliquely, at an angle of 65 - 70 °, and the roots are sprinkled with wet sand. After laying all the seedlings in the trench, they are covered with scraps of unusable vines, previously treated with a 5% solution of copper sulphate. With the onset of frost, the trenches are carefully covered with earth, for which a shaft of earth with a height of 25 - 30 cm. A drainage ditch is dug around the trench.
Transfer of planting material
When forwarding planting material(seedlings, cuttings), special care must be taken to prevent it from drying out on the way and freezing if it is transported in winter. At the same time, it is necessary to know and follow the rules for protecting grapes from phylloxera.
If seedlings or cuttings are intended for transportation over a long distance, they are packed in boxes, covered with wet moss or sawdust. In the absence of boxes, bags or mats can be used; in this case, the seedlings are carefully covered with sawdust, moss, straw.
Fruit trees are usually propagated by grafting cuttings to a rootstock, this is the most common method. Growing own-rooted seedlings - old and undeserved forgotten way reproduction, because a grafted apple tree can acquire the properties of a rootstock, and when growing own-rooted seedlings, the purity of the variety is preserved.
The essence of the method of growing own-rooted seedlings
The method consists in growing seedlings from cuttings. Branches from the mother tree are tilted to the ground and sprinkled with soil. Receiving nutrients from the mother tree, the branch will put down its own roots and give rise to a shoot that will get stronger in a year and can be separated from the mother tree. You will get a young apple tree, ready to be transplanted to a new place.
The seedlings bought in the nursery are propagated by grafting a cultivated variety onto a wild apple tree. Therefore, if you want to propagate an apple variety grafted onto a rootstock, then you need to select a branch above the grafting point. This is done in order not to grow a seedling wild apple tree. If the apple tree is own-rooted, then you can drop any branch.
How to root a branch of an apple tree?
Rooting an apple tree is very simple. To do this, tilt the branch to the ground and make cuts on the bark for faster formation of the root system. Next, they dig a groove about 10 cm deep and place a branch in it, and then sprinkle it with soil. The place where the buried branch is located must be marked with a peg so as not to accidentally damage the future seedling. Around you need to make a small groove so that the branch is convenient to water. After a year, the buried branch will give growth. When it gets stronger, it will be possible to cut off the seedling from the mother tree with secateurs and transplant it to a permanent place.
Is this method rational?
Some gardeners question this method of reproductionbecause it is very long: after all, you have to wait a whole year until the dug branch gives growth. If you propagate an apple tree with self-rooted seedlings, and dig in a few branches every year, then it will take no more time than growing a grafted apple tree.
But growing own-rooted seedlings is not suitable for all varieties of apple trees. So, for example, a vigorous apple tree takes root worse than undersized and medium-sized varieties.
The advantage of growing own-rooted seedlings is that a new tree grows with its own root system, which can be transplanted anywhere on the site. Due to the developed root system, the survival rate of the tree increases several times, and the taste qualities of the mother variety are preserved.
