Caring for Victoria after harvest. Proper care of strawberries after harvest How to process strawberries after fruiting

The wonderful strawberry (garden strawberry) is both very tasty and very healthy. That is why, in addition to food, it is actively used for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. However, its nature is capricious and requires careful and patient care, which is not always compensated by a generous harvest. To have a good harvest garden strawberries next season, we need to lay its foundation this year. It is especially important to carry out a number of measures to care for strawberries after fruiting and harvesting, in particular, to properly prune strawberry bushes.

Caring for strawberries after fruiting and harvesting in July: main activities

After fruiting and harvesting, in mid-summer (July), strawberries need proper care.

Perhaps the most important thing at this time, which, in fact, is what this material is devoted to, is to prune the strawberry bushes after they bear fruit.

Positive experience shows that after the summer pruning of strawberries has been completed, optimally well weed the beds from weeds and loosen the soil. Moreover, you need to loosen near the bushes shallowly, so as not to touch the root system, which is located very close to the surface. Next, you should water abundantly, and then apply light nitrogen fertilizing. A little later (maybe in a day or two, or closer to autumn) feed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers, and then treat the bushes against diseases and pests (or do this at the end of summer).

Thus, the algorithm for caring for strawberries in the summer, after harvest, consists of the following stages:

  1. trim leaves, peduncles and tendrils;
  2. perform weeding and loosening of the soil;
  3. water generously;
  4. feed with nitrogen, and a little later with potassium and phosphorus (or immediately after pruning with complex mineral fertilizer);
  5. carry out treatment against diseases and pests (you can immediately after pruning, or a little later - in August).

By the way! To avoid tedious weeding and loosening every year, simply mulch the strawberries or plant them under black film. Read about how to do this

Video: caring for strawberries after harvest: pruning, removing tendrils, weeding and loosening, fertilizing

Pruning strawberries after harvest

When to prune

After fruiting is completely over and you have harvested the entire crop, it is recommended to cut off some of the strawberry leaves, its flower stalks and the resulting rosettes.

As for the timing, as a rule, it falls in the second half of July.

How to trim correctly: which leaves to remove and which to leave

Recommendation ! It is recommended to carry out pruning of strawberries exclusively with gardening gloves and only with the help ofacute scissors or pruning shears. Only no need to cut off leaves and mustache hands, since they are quite strong and sit firmly in the ground, and you simply you can pull out part of the bush.

Next, look at the condition of the bush: if there is leaves with signs of disease(dotted or speckled, all spotted), old and withered, then they are also needed trim, A healthy and young - leave.

Most often, strawberries, namely their leaf apparatus, are affected.

By the way! Don't forget to remove the fruiting ones too. flower stalks.

Video: pruning strawberries after fruiting

It would be quite logical to note that due to such pruning, the strawberry bush will get rid of some of the spores of pathogens and pests, and will also be better ventilated and will not sour during the autumn rains.

Advice! All cut strawberry leaves are better burn (or take outside the site) to avoid the spread of various diseases, especially if they show obvious signs of disease and the presence of pests.

And in no case are they such leaves cannot be composted!

There is a lot of controversy about whether it is possible to remove all strawberry leaves after fruiting, because this is the easiest way to do it.

Worth knowing! The fact is that if you cut off the entire bush, it will quickly become depleted and strawberries will spend all their energy restoring green mass instead of laying flower (fruit) buds for next year and storing nutrients before wintering.

However, you must understand that in any case you will have to remove part of the green mass, which means that in the future you will have to help the plant recover, that is, feed it - give it the whole complex of macro- and microelements.

Pay attention! But it makes sense to completely remove garden strawberries, which are very damaged by diseases and pests, in order to plant a new strawberry plantation next year.

However, if you really feel sorry for her, then without fail it will be enough remove all mulch(of course, if it has been mulched), and then carefully treated against diseases and pests.

Mustache trimming

Necessity trim your mustache strawberries don't just happen. She directly depends, do you plan to replant them? to expand your strawberry beds.

Advice! It is in the first year after fruiting (in the second year of life of the rosette after overwintering) that the mustache should be taken for propagation, since such a dependence manifests itself - the older the bush, the less potential it has for reproduction and the weaker the mustache it will produce.

More often mustaches are regularly removed as they grow. But it is optimal to do this before flowering, after fruiting and harvesting, as well as at the end of the summer season. In fact, they are very convenient to remove when you once again loosen or weed the beds.

Pay attention! Removing the whiskers also further stimulates the formation of future strawberry flower buds.

Video: how and when to remove mustaches from strawberry bushes

Fertilizing strawberries after fruiting

After pruning the strawberry bush, it is advisable to carry out intensive feeding of the weakened plant, since during this period garden strawberries experience quite severe stress and you need to help form its new leaf apparatus.

As a rule, immediately after trimming the leaves, it is recommended to give nitrogen fertilizer, and after a few days (7-10) or closer to autumn - potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

By the way! More information about autumn feeding of strawberries after fruiting you can find .

Strawberry bushes can be watered as nitrogen fertilizermullein solution, diluted in a ratio of 1 to 10, orpoultry (chicken) droppings, which should be infused for 24 hours, and the concentration should be half as much - 1 to 20. It’s also perfectgreen manure(3-4 days herbal infusion, best nettle).

Video: feeding strawberries after harvest

After this (best after a few 7-10 days, although it is possible at the end of summer), you definitely need to give the plant potassium, for example, dust the beds (or make an infusion or solution) or use “ Potassium humate" with trace elements, the most common potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate).

It is also very advisable to use phosphorus (for example,).

Pay attention! You need to feed only on damp soil and under the bush (without getting on the leaves), so be sure to water the strawberries before feeding plain water, or fertilize after rain.

However, as an option, you can immediately after trimming the strawberry bushes (and then again after 7-10 days), feed the plant instant complex fertilizer with microelements(such as Kristalon, Master, Plantafol, Kemira), in which equal amount of macronutrients(for example, 15:15:15 or 18:18:18).

Important! If, after heavy feeding, small flowers begin to appear on the bushes, they need to be promptly removed, because they will only weaken the plant, and they will no longer be of any use.

Treatment of strawberries after harvest from diseases and pests

Or immediately after feeding, or already in second half of August worth doing treatment of strawberries from diseases and pests.

  • For pests, especially against ticks, it is best to use Fitoverm (Actofit), Bitoxibacillin, Vertimek, Masai.
  • For strawberry diseases, especially against brown spot - Horus (for all spots), Topaz (for powdery mildew), .

By the way! In general, you can make a tank mixture (from 2-3 selected products) by first dissolving each drug separately in water (according to the instructions), and then pour the resulting solutions into a common container (sprayer).

Remember! If after mixing the preparations no sediment forms, they can be used in a tank mixture.

Samu processing it is advisable to carry out in calm weather, while carefully You need to spray not only the bushes themselves, but also mulch(if your bushes are mulched). After 2 weeks it is advisable to repeat.

However, if strawberry this season was very heavily affected by diseases and pests, then it is recommended remove all old mulch, and then carefully treat against diseases and pests.

A folk remedy for treating strawberry bushes against diseases is to use brilliant green, diluted in water in a proportion of 4-5 drops per 1 liter of water. According to some summer residents, brilliant green is an excellent antiseptic that helps in the fight against gray rot, powdery mildew and other diseases.

Features of caring for remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberry is capable of bearing fruit all summer (hence its name), therefore traditional summer pruning for remontant bushes is not done. Complete or even partial pruning of leaves also noticeably weakens the plant, even if you feed it well afterwards.

Another thing is that it is necessary periodically inspect the bushes for diseased and dry leaves, in other words, you need do selective pruning, including after each fruiting and harvesting of strawberries.

But as for mustache, then them still needs to be trimmed, unless, of course, you need them for reproduction.

Video: features of caring for remontant strawberries

Thus, if you properly care for strawberries in the summer, following all the tips and recommendations, namely, correctly pruning the bushes after fruiting and harvesting, and also give good feeding If you treat them against diseases and pests, then next year you will definitely have a bountiful harvest of tasty and ripe berries.

Video: caring for strawberries after fruiting from A to Z

Every gardener loves to harvest large harvests of strawberries. But its cultivation does not end there. In this article you can find out what actions are necessary to prepare strawberries for the new harvest season.

Many gardeners who grow strawberries on their plots will not be able to answer how strawberries develop after harvesting and what to do after fruiting. But proper care of strawberries after picking the berries becomes the basis good harvest next year. It is necessary to carry out preparatory activities back in the fall.

Strawberry

Strawberries begin to bloom and bear fruit very early. Around the middle of the season, the first berries begin to ripen. However, during this time, plants simply would not be able to obtain all the necessary substances in sufficient quantity for the formation of sweet and large berries.

A natural question may arise here: how is such a harvest formed? The future harvest begins to form at the end of summer of the previous year. As soon as the harvest of fragrant berries is harvested, new buds begin to form, flowers grow and mustaches grow. It is very important to take care of your strawberries at this time.

It should be taken into account that various varieties Strawberries will ripen differently. The majority of varieties finish bearing fruit at the beginning of summer. However, the latest varieties of remontant strawberries can ripen until mid-August. Therefore, the timing of events may shift.

Mulching with straw

Trimming

After the end of the fruiting period, the foliage on the strawberry bushes begins to die off and be replaced by new ones. Thus, the strawberries themselves get rid of old leaves after harvesting, what should a gardener do (video) in this case? It is necessary to help the plants get rid of excess old leaves and trim them.

Reasons to get rid of leaves:

  • Old leaves can no longer participate in the process of photosynthesis as effectively. They require much more nutrients to maintain them than the benefits they can bring. If the leaves begin to turn yellow and die due to their old age, then you should help the plants and carefully remove them.
  • Leaves need to be removed if they have been affected by diseases or mites. Such leaves must not only be trimmed, but also burned to completely destroy the infection. Tools that will be used to trim leaves must be disinfected so as not to spread the infection to all plants.

After this procedure, it would be appropriate to feed the strawberries so that the strawberry roots have time to gain nutrients before the winter period.

During this same period, the mustache begins to actively form. When processing strawberries after harvest, it is important to know what to do with the mustache. Strawberry whiskers are a means of reproduction. If there is no need for this, then you can cut them all off. Otherwise, 1-2 best copies are left. They dig in carefully.

It is not advisable to start trimming your mustache. In this case, all the nutrients necessary for the formation of new buds will be spent on the development of mustaches and rosettes, which will still be trimmed.

Treatment of strawberry bushes should be carried out constantly, but the bulk of the work occurs in the period after fruiting. If after such treatment the strawberry bushes are completely without leaves, you should not panic. Before the onset of winter, it will have time to grow new foliage.

Weed removal

There is nothing complicated in loosening the soil, although there are some features that should be taken into account when carrying out this agricultural activity.

  • The soil between the bushes is loosened thoroughly, but carefully and not deeply. The main part of the roots is located at a depth of 10 cm. It is necessary to loosen so as not to affect the roots.
  • When loosening, you should lightly hill up the soil so that the side roots are underground.
  • The question may arise when caring for strawberries after harvesting, what to do with weeds. It is very convenient to carry out weeding and weed removal simultaneously with loosening.

Feeding

During flowering and fruiting, it is not recommended to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers. They promote the formation of new foliage. And this is not very good for ripening berries. But after fruiting is completed, everything changes dramatically, and fertilizers containing nitrogen are especially necessary for strawberries.

Fertilizing strawberries

Watering

Before the onset of winter, watering should be carried out regularly. Watering is very important for caring for strawberries after fruiting; what to do next and how to water correctly can be found below.

  • The soil must be kept moist. This can be ensured by regular watering.
  • Frequent and superficial watering does not give the desired result. It is better to water strawberries rarely, but abundantly. Heavy watering every 7-10 days is considered optimal.
  • To protect the soil from drying out quickly, it should be mulched with peat or use non-woven covering material.
  • Watering should be done in the morning or evening, otherwise the strawberry leaves may get burned.

Carrying out proper irrigation after harvesting will have a positive impact on the quality of the crop that can be obtained in the next harvest year.

Treatment for diseases and insects

Diseases and insects can cause enormous damage to strawberry plantings. In some cases, this can lead to the complete destruction of all plants. Therefore, it is necessary to treat plantings annually against the most common pests and diseases. It is better to do this after harvesting so as not to disturb the flowering and ripening of the berries. How signs of disease appear on strawberries after harvest, and what to do (video) to combat them, can be found below.

Diseases

Powdery mildew

  • Powdery mildew. The disease occurs quite often and manifests itself in the form of white plaque. Fungal spores overwinter in the affected parts of plants and are carried by the wind when favorable conditions. May lead to slower development of berries and further drying.
  • Gray rot. A small spot of gray or brown color begins to appear on the berries, on which a gray mossy coating then forms. Such berries begin to rot very quickly and become unsuitable for food. On foliage such signs are much less common.
  • Brown spot. The fungus develops on old leaves from mid-summer. A sign of the disease is the formation of brown spots. The fungus negatively affects the formation of flower buds, which can have a bad effect on the future harvest.
  • Late blight rot. Brown spots appear on the berries, which gradually spread to the entire surface of the berries. The berries themselves acquire a bitter taste and fall off. Dark green spots of heterogeneous shapes form on the foliage.
  • White spotting. It manifests itself in the appearance of brown spots on any part of the strawberry bush. Later the spots turn white. The fungus reduces the yield of bushes on which it has managed to develop.

Pests

Pests can cause the destruction of the entire crop. They easily overwinter in plants, and in the spring they begin to feed on their juices. Therefore, it is very important to know the signs of their appearance on strawberries after harvest, and what to do to get rid of these pests.

Spider mite

  • Nematodes. Small and poorly distinguishable worms that usually live in the soil. They reproduce very quickly. They stick to accessible parts of the plant, feeding on its juices and poisoning it with their enzymes. They are very difficult to remove, and in advanced cases it is necessary to change the soil.
  • Strawberry mite. Quite a small insect. Overwinters at the base of leaves. Mite larvae feed on plant sap, after which they become wrinkled and yellowish, and then die off altogether.
  • Strawberry-raspberry weevil. A small black beetle, only 3 mm long. They overwinter under the remains of leaves. With the onset of warmth, young individuals begin to feed on leaves and buds. As flowering begins, female beetles begin to lay eggs in the buds.
  • Small black mower. Small black bugs, up to 5 mm long. They overwinter underground, where they lay eggs. The larvae prefer to feed on roots, and the young beetles prefer to feed on leaves.

Prevention

The best way to protect your crop from pests and insects is to take preventive measures.

The structure of a strawberry bush

  • Growing resistant varieties will help protect plants from diseases and pests.
  • It is not for nothing that compliance with the rules of crop rotation is considered fundamental in gardening. You can grow strawberries in one place for no more than 2 years in a row. Then it should be transplanted to another place.
  • Most strawberry diseases are fungal. Therefore, after harvesting, the area can be treated with fungicides for preventive purposes. This is strongly recommended if signs of disease have been detected
  • The use of insecticides will help destroy most insects that live on plants and feed on their juices. This procedure must be carried out after harvesting so as not to interfere with flowering and not to turn the berries into an inedible poison.
  • Weeds often harbor pests, so they need to be removed from the area as soon as possible.

Compliance with these simple rules will help prepare strawberry bushes for winter, and in the spring the efforts spent will pay off in the form of a rich harvest. Knowing how strawberries develop after harvest and what to do (video) after removing all the berries, you can develop the optimal plan for growing these plants.

Caring for strawberries in August and September:

Caring for strawberries in summer should be carried out systematically. The future strawberry harvest greatly depends on this. You need to pay attention to spots on strawberries, also mites on strawberries can do a lot of harm and you also need to constantly fight them.

Caring for strawberries in August



Without knowing how to care for strawberries in August, you risk losing your harvest next year. The last month of summer is often dry and hot. Therefore, it is important to water at least 2 times a week. The plants themselves “signal” the need for watering - the bushes droop and the foliage dries out.


You can water strawberries either by sprinkling or at the root - the sun is no longer so aggressive, and there will be no burn on the leaves

If the leaves continue to dry out, become stained, or weaken, they should be carefully cut off and only 3-4 healthy leaves should be left to improve the “green mass”. The same goes for mustaches, which can be removed if they are still growing or if you forgot to do so in July.

Plants can be fed with a weak solution of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20) and loosen the soil. One 10 liter bucket should be enough for 10-12 bushes. You can form earthen “sides” up to 15 cm high around the beds and fill them to the top with water.

And it is also recommended in August plant new strawberry bushes on the site. It is best to do this in the evening or on a cloudy day. The seedlings must have three true leaves and developed root system. It is planted in a previously prepared wet hole.

Caring for strawberries in September

Autumn strawberry care differs slightly from summer activities. However, they should not be neglected either.

Some varieties of strawberries continue to form flowers even in September. The berries on them will not ripen before the onset of cold weather, so such “idle” inflorescences should be picked off. The same goes for strawberry mustaches.


Even if forecasts promise a mild winter, feed the bushes. Ammophos is perfect for this (the contents are added at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m.). For “warming”, rotted chicken manure diluted in water in a ratio of 1:15 is also added. 1-1.5 liters of the composition are poured under each bush. Sometimes cow manure is used, diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10 with the addition of 1 cup of ash. Strawberries are watered generously with the resulting mixture at the rate of 1.5-2 liters per bush.

For the last time before winter, inspect the strawberry bushes and discard diseased and affected specimens, as well as remove excess tendrils and withered leaves. Don't throw away "bad" plants, but put them in the compost heap.

Caring for strawberries after trimming the leaves

Caring for strawberries open ground involves not only the removal of tendrils and inflorescences, but also leaves. However, there is no need to “expose” the plant completely, since by tearing off healthy leaves, you reduce the likelihood of the formation of peduncles and fruits, reduce the yield and doom the strawberry to difficulties during the wintering period. First of all, remove dry and withered leaves affected by strawberry mites. If the fruit-bearing plant is almost entirely affected, then it is easier to cut it off with pruners just above the growth point and burn the remains.


If you need seedlings for propagation, then you should not remove the whiskers, you need to give them the opportunity to take root and grow a strong rosette

After pruning, loosen the soil and water it. Treat the bushes with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkle with ash. To provide good growth kidneys, feed the strawberries universal fertilizer at the rate of 10 g per 10 liters of water. Ammonium nitrate and nitrogen fertilizers are also suitable (use according to instructions).

Towards the end of September, strawberry bushes can be covered with straw to protect them from upcoming frosts. Place freshly cut grass between the rows - it will become the first spring fertilizer.

Fertilizing strawberries in autumn

After the above work on autumn strawberry care, dig up the rows, hill up and feed the bushes with fertilizer. You can use manure (2-4 kg per 1 sq.m.), chicken droppings (1 kg per 10 liters of water) or wood ash (100 g per 1 sq.m.). In this case, manure is applied so that the fertilizer does not touch the strawberry leaves: to avoid burns to the plant. On the contrary, ash is sprayed not only under the roots, but also on the leaves.

Complex fertilizer (2 tablespoons of nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water) is suitable as a mineral fertilizer.

Caring for remontant strawberries

From mid-September, start caring for fruit-bearing bushes. Loosen the soil to hide the root system and protect it from the cold. As a rule, at this time the plants are covered with a “blanket” of cut green manure or the soil is mulched with straw, hay, fallen leaves and mowed weeds. Remove remaining flower stalks so that they do not weaken the plants, and cut off any withered leaves after the first frost.

Covering strawberries for the winter

Final stage autumn care for garden strawberries - this is insulation. 2 days after treatment and feeding, cover the bushes with straw, spruce paws or fallen leaves. This will not only protect your strawberries from winter frosts, but will also serve as an additional source of organic matter.

For good fruiting of strawberries, year-round care for this crop is required. After harvesting, strawberry bushes require special care to restore. With proper preventive maintenance, strawberries increase fruiting by at least 15-30 percent.

The fruits become larger, juicier and sweeter. Any variety of simple or remontant strawberry is grateful for care, and berries grown with your own hands are strikingly different from store-bought ones.

How to properly care for strawberries after fruiting

Care after picking berries in July

In July, after fruiting of strawberries, care appropriate for this period is carried out, these are:

  • mustache trimming,
  • dried leaves,
  • weeding,
  • feeding,
  • hilling strawberries.

In July, after picking berries, the plants begin to grow new leaves, form new horns, the growth of tendrils with lateral rosettes intensifies, and new flower buds are formed.

First, the beds are weeded. Excess tendrils and dried leaves are removed. Reddened leaves are removed first. You cannot tear off the foliage and mustache, you can only cut it, otherwise the bush will be damaged and will hurt.

For pruning, use sharp scissors or pruning shears. It is better to burn old leaves to prevent the proliferation of pests. If young leaves curl or take on a corrugated shape, this is an indicator of strawberry mite infestation and the plants should be treated with acaricidal preparations.

If the central leaves turn yellow and the petioles are thickened and short, this is a sign of a nematode. At the same time, the plant is dug up, treated with boiling water and removed from the site.

After pruning, old mulch is removed from the beds. The soil around the strawberries is loosened, fertilized, and watered.

The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10 centimeters. Around the plants, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5 centimeters. The bushes are sprucing up.

In this case, the roots should be completely covered, and the upper part of the bush should remain above the ground. This is especially true for plants that have been growing for several years, since their root system begins to protrude above the ground.

Taken for feeding mineral fertilizers with an admixture of microelements. There are about 30 grams of fertilizer per square meter. A special fertilizer for garden strawberries, Fertika, ammophoska, is suitable for this.

Fertilizers containing potassium chloride cannot be used, as it slows down growth and impairs fruiting. Fertilizers are embedded in the soil to a depth of about 6 centimeters.

In addition to these fertilizers, you can use last year's humus. It crumbles on top. It will improve the soil structure and make it more fertile.

You can also fertilize the beds with diluted chicken manure (15 parts water and 1 part manure). When feeding, we must not forget that this solution should not get on the foliage, otherwise burns will appear on the plants, which provokes the development of diseases. A high concentration of the solution can completely destroy the bush. That's why this type fertilizing is not used so often.

In dry weather, the beds are watered. Soil moisture should be maintained until the end of the season. Watering is done once a week with a bucket per square meter.

For better results, you can use drip irrigation. This type of watering will allow you to receive the right amount of moisture and at the same time the plants will not rot, since the soil will not become waterlogged.

The soil around the bushes is mulched with chopped grass, peat, and straw.

Caring for strawberries in August

To get a bountiful strawberry harvest next year, proper care is required. The last month of summer is best suited for this.

Care includes:

  • pruning leaves,
  • mustache transplant,
  • preparing plants for winter.

Old leaves are cut off. If varieties grow in groups, they are processed first early varieties. Then come the middle and late varieties, this will allow you to evenly care for the plants and will not allow them to outgrow, which leads to the threat of infection with diseases and pests.

The mustache is cut off at a distance of 10 centimeters from the base of the bush. After pruning, young foliage and the core (horns) remain on the bush.

The mustaches with new rosettes and young roots are planted to form young bushes. For this purpose, the strongest specimens are selected, and the weak ones are removed.

For better yield, after harvesting, the strongest tendril remains on the bush. A new mother bush will grow from it to replace the old one. This operation is performed every three years.

And the spots are treated with therapeutic and preventive spraying of strawberries.

For spraying the following preparations are used: Karbofos or Actellik, this is protection against weevils and strawberry mites; Azocene and Topaz are used for the prevention and control of powdery mildew; one percent lime solution and copper sulfate saves bushes and berries from rot and spotting.

Feeding the bushes during this period increases the degree of frost resistance of the plant and promotes the formation of flower buds.

Feeding with fertilizers

For fertilizers, fertilizers with nitrogen are used (a strong urea solution is not suitable).
Complex mineral fertilizers should include: 1 part nitrogen, 2 parts phosphorus, 4 parts potassium. IN ready-made version, it could be: Fusco, Autumn, Autumn. All of these preparations, in addition to the base, contain other useful substances.

The Autumn fertilizer does not contain nitrogen, which allows it to be used even at a later period, but this preparation contains all the elements that are necessary for the growth and good fruiting of strawberries.

Suitable organic fertilizers include: peat, horse manure in granules, humus, bone meal.

Bird droppings are not used to avoid excess nitrogen.

Mineral and organic fertilizers should not be mixed. In rare cases, when the soil is depleted, mineral and organic fertilizers are applied over the entire area of ​​the beds. If the strawberry planting area is quite large, this mixture can also be used.

After feeding, the plants are covered with mulch, and for wintering the bushes are covered with leaves, pine needles, potato tops, and straw. Dry weather is chosen for shelter, otherwise the layer may cake and cause the formation of pests and diseases inside the layer or lead to root rot.

The layer of mulch protecting plants from frost should be at least 7 centimeters. In addition to mulch, non-woven material, such as spunbond, is used.

Caring for remontant strawberries after picking berries

Remontant strawberries differ from standard varieties in that they produce several harvests per year. Proper care guarantees not only bountiful harvests, but also the formation of new bushes, which allows you to quickly grow this variety on the site.

To get the second and third good result, flower stalks must be thinned out.

After each fruiting, reddened and diseased leaves are removed from the bushes. The first order whiskers remain on the mother bush. It is best to root them in prepared cups for further planting. After the end of the season, the cups are collected, the tendrils are cut off from the main bush and they can be planted in prepared beds.

When caring for remontant strawberries, watering should be done more often than when watering standard varieties, but less abundantly. For irrigation, it is better to use heated water. The soil should be moist, but not waterlogged, otherwise the strawberry root system may begin to rot.

Remontant varieties of strawberries are demanding of fertilizers and must be constantly supplied with potassium and nitrogen. When preparing the soil for planting new plants, phosphorus fertilizers are added.

You should not leave bushes with berries under the snow

After collecting the last autumn harvest it is necessary to cut off all the foliage and flower stalks from the plants and cover the bushes with a special non-woven material, which will protect plants from frost.

Remontant strawberries, in comparison with simple varieties, have a short life span and after two years the plants must be replaced by new ones. Some varieties do not produce whiskers and are easier to care for, but they use seeds to propagate them, which complicates the breeding process.

July and August are suitable for renewing strawberry plantations. By autumn the bushes take root and easily endure the winter.

In preparation for winter, flower stalks and leaves are torn off from the mother bushes. The bushes are earthed up so that the roots are covered with soil. But the core must remain open, otherwise it will begin to rot. The prepared beds are covered with leaves and grass.

In addition to the standard growing method, remontant strawberries can grow on trellises, columns, and in tunnels.

To protect plants, protective plants, such as corn, are planted on trellises on both sides of the strawberries, which remain overwinter and additionally save the strawberries from freezing.

After the last fruiting, the strawberries are covered with breathable non-woven material, which saves the plantings from freezing. When grown in tunnels, fruiting lasts until the first frost.

During the warm period of Indian summer, the covering material is raised on one side for air circulation. Even when temperatures drop under the material, strawberries fully ripen and do not lose their taste.

And remontant, and this especially applies to the period after fruiting, as the plants become depleted, grow and may begin to hurt.

With careful and careful care, the yield increases, the size of the berries of even small varieties becomes larger, the fruits are saturated with moisture and sweetness.

And in every region, even quite cool ones, you can choose a suitable option that will delight you with a tasty and aromatic harvest.

Every gardener wants to get tasty, large and juicy strawberries in season. And it’s time to take care of the future harvest immediately after harvesting.

Caring for a fragrant berry is a long process, almost all-season, but having felt the careful care of the gardener, strawberries will not be stingy in rewarding him with a generous harvest. Let's look at how to care for the soil after harvesting strawberries.

Trimming old strawberry leaves and tendrils


The plant transferred its juices to the ripening berries, now the gardener’s task is to help the bushes regain their strength, give them the opportunity to form new leaves and prepare for a long winter, so that next spring they will have a decent harvest.

Important! Five-year-old strawberry plantings should be replaced with young plants.

Having collected the last berries at the beginning of summer, it is necessary to carry out weeding the beds with strawberries, because weeding is not carried out throughout the entire fruiting period. Then remove straw, sawdust, pine needles and other mulch and carefully loosen the soil under bushes and between rows.

Cut material must be removed from the beds. This seemingly cruel procedure will give the bush the opportunity to produce new leaves and buds by autumn.

Having discovered many shoots thrown out by the plant, a logical question arises: what to do with a strawberry mustache. Nature provides that strawberries are needed only for reproduction.

Therefore, if it is necessary to propagate strawberries, the strongest tendrils are left for rooting, and the resulting young seedlings are separated and transplanted into beds in the fall.


The remaining tendrils must be removed, since they will take away juices and strength from the mother bush, thereby making it weak and reducing next year’s harvest. Discarded by the plant and not needed by the gardener mustache is cut off as low to the ground as possible with a sharp pruner or knife.

Breaking off a shoot can lead to the pulling out and death of the entire plant. Since strawberries throw out mustaches several times during the warm season, the mustaches are trimmed several times as they appear. This will save the bush from unnecessary expenditure of effort.

How to feed strawberries after harvest

The plant needs to recover good nutrition, therefore it is necessary strawberry fertilizer after harvest. You can do it with this mixture: Dissolve potassium sulfate, ammonium nitrate and superphosphate in a ratio of 1:1:3 in water and pour this solution over the bushes.

Strawberries will also benefit from sprinkling the base of the bush with vermicompost, rotted compost, or covering the plant with pieces of dried manure. You can nourish a strawberry plantation by sprinkling it with crushed wood ash - 2 kg per square meter.

Did you know?After two months of growth, strawberry leaves begin to age.

How to water strawberries after harvesting


After the harvest, strawberries do not require intensive watering of the soil. Bushes need to be watered only during dry periods. The main thing is not to let the soil dry out after fruiting.

At the strawberry growing site, it is recommended to carry out mulching the soil straw, peat or sawdust - this will retain moisture in the soil. After watering, you need to let the soil around the strawberries dry slightly and thoroughly loosen the soil in the beds.

How to treat strawberries to prevent diseases and pests

After fruiting is complete, the plants should be inspected and treatment against diseases and pests.

Diseases, affecting strawberries:

  • powdery mildew- manifests itself as a gray coating on the foliage, which rots, curls and falls. For treatment, the beds are treated with a solution of colloidal sulfur - 50 grams per 5 liters of warm water.
  • gray mold– appears as gray spots affecting the berries, can be cured with a solution of copper chloroxide – 40 grams per 10 liters of water.
  • black rot- an analogue of sulfur, only the spots on the berries are black, the treatment methods are the same.
  • spotting– leaf damage with brown-red spots, get rid of it with a solution of copper chloroxide – 50 grams per 10 liters of water.

Important! Reddish foliage is cut and burned in preparation for wintering - this will protect the plantings from pests.

Areas for growing berries need constant control and protection from strawberry pests.

Most Frequent pests:


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