How to make a solenoid valve. Solenoid valve. DIY water solenoid valve installation

A water solenoid valve is a widely used electromechanical device that regulates the flow of liquids and gases through a pipeline.

The valve design is quite simple:

Valve body and covers. For their manufacture, brass, stainless steel, cast iron or various polymers (ecolon, polypropylene, nylon and others) can be used.

Valves (24 VAC solenoid and the valve itself) operating at any pressure and temperature. Thanks to the use in their design modern materials, they are quite resistant to aggressive environments.

The plungers and rods are made from special magnetic materials.

The solenoids (electric coils) are enclosed in a sealed housing, which serves as reliable protection from dust. The winding is made with enamel wire high quality from electrical copper.

Operating principle

The electromechanical water valve is designed in such a way that in the event of a power outage or failure of the control panel, it can be used like a regular water tap.

To do this, simply turn the control solenoid a quarter turn in the direction indicated by the arrow:

• ON - open
• OF - closed.

In addition, manual control allows you to quickly preserve the irrigation system for the winter.

Connection

The valve is connected to the electrical network using a plug. It is controlled by applying a pulse (voltage) to the solenoid. The supply voltage can be:

• AC (AC: 24 V, 110 V, 220 V);
• DC (DC: 12 V, 24 V).

Main operating position magnetic valve depends on its execution:

• normally open (NO);
• normally closed (NC);
• pulse (bistable) - the most common and switch from one position to another according to a control pulse.

The solenoid valve for supplying and releasing water pressure is widely used in automatic irrigation systems and performs the function of an electric tap.

At the required time, it opens through the control panel and allows the required flow of water into the irrigation pipeline.

Choice

The range of models of valves produced is very extensive, but they all meet the main requirement - to provide access to water into the irrigation system. The main parameter when choosing a device is the size of its inlet and outlet openings (1-3 inches).

All produced models can only have design features, which do not affect the performance of the valve.

However, the most popular are 1-inch solenoid valves with high throughput: up to 50 l/min, installed both on long pipelines (HDPE 80 with a diameter of up to 40 mm) and on short irrigation lines, but with high water consumption.

Positive feature solenoid valve is a built-in mechanical regulator that regulates the water level in the irrigation system.

In this way, optimal water consumption is achieved, it becomes possible to more accurately adjust the radius of irrigation using sprayers, and the valve also becomes an integral part of drip irrigation, that is, it is used in low-pressure systems.

The most popular are normally closed inch valves of the SRV series with a capacity of more than 100 l/min and a working pressure range of 1.5 - 10 atm.

For safety reasons, a water pressure regulator must be installed on a valve with an inlet opening larger than 1 inch.

Installation and reasons for failure

An electric valve for lowering and increasing water pressure is installed on a crushed stone drainage pad near the irrigation system, after which it is covered with a box.

This close location to the pipeline allows you to significantly save money and maintain operating pressure in the irrigation system.

Any, even the most reliable equipment, during its operation, can suddenly fail. The solenoid valve for water is no exception.

Breakdowns can occur for several reasons:

The cable from the control panel is broken - the voltage does not reach the valve.

The plunger spring is broken (replace the solenoid) - the valve does not operate under normal power supply.

The electromagnetic coil has burned out. In this case, there is no click when turned on.

The hole on which the solenoid screws is clogged. It is necessary to unscrew the structure and flush the hole.

Where is it used?

The scope of application of the solenoid valve, in addition to its use in the irrigation system, is very extensive:

Industrial uses of water solenoid valve are:

• Firstly, its installation in the automation system for washing water treatment lines (industrial reverse osmosis). Valves with fairly high pressure are used here - up to 70 atm.

  Their second purpose is to automatic mode maintain the required level in tanks, as well as distribute and mix various flows.

Electric valves are required to automatically control various hydraulic systems. Finished goods quite expensive. Let's look for a cheaper solution.

The most commonly available valves are from broken washing machines.

The coils of such devices are designed for 220 volts AC, which limits their capabilities. Sometimes it is more convenient to control the valve with a low voltage voltage of 12 volts.

I needed such a device to regulate the interior heater mode of a VAZ car. Suitable valves from foreign cars are outrageously expensive, and with the increase in the exchange rate they even become a luxury item. Let's try to remake the solenoid valve from washing machine under the vehicle's on-board voltage.

First, let's see how everything works.

We remove the coil by inserting a thin screwdriver into the gap between the solenoid and the housing. In this case, you can slightly squeeze the petals that secure the solenoid coil with pliers.

To operate at 12 volts, the valve solenoid (coil) must be replaced.

The most suitable solenoid was found in the EPPXX air valve of the VAZ 2105.

Since no images of the insides were found on the Internet, I will provide them for the curious.

Let's start disassembling

The simplest thing is to cut off the rolling using sandpaper or file it along the outer edge.
Valve cover (view from inside):

Stock, aka cork. The air flow is blocked by a rubber insert at the end. At the opposite end there is a recess for the spring:

A steel washer for closing the magnetic flux and a non-magnetic guide in which the rod moves:

Coil:
1. In the case.

2. Removed.

Oval O-rings seal the terminals from the inside of the housing. We will need one of them later, so save them.

And finally, the body from the inside. The end of the stationary magnetic circuit with a protrusion for the spring is visible:

Next, we finalize the body. Using sandpaper, we grind down a tube with a riveting on the back side, and placing the body bottom up, carefully knock out the remains of the internal magnetic circuit with a beard. If the body is dented inward, we eliminate the deformation. Next, drill out the central hole to a diameter of 9mm.

To create a magnetic system similar to the valve system from a washing machine, it is necessary to cut two strips from tin from a tin can - one 15 mm wide, the other 10 mm wide. The length of the strips should be such that a ring of approximately 1.5 turns is wound on the body of the valve stem from the washing machine.

A solenoid driven valve is modern look shut-off valves. They allow remote control of liquid or gas flows in pipeline systems. Such valves are well integrated into automated control systems technological processes, allow you to save scarce human resources and make the work of enterprises safer. There is a large number various types valves for different environments, they differ in their design and purpose.

Purpose and application of solenoid valves

The solenoid valve is designed to control the flow of liquid and gaseous products at a distance. It can be shut-off or regulating. Control can be carried out either manually or using automation systems. In its design and purpose, an electromagnetic shutter is very similar to a regular one, with the difference that the locking element is driven not by muscular force, but by a solenoid, an electromagnet with a movable core. When voltage is applied to the solenoid inductor, it, depending on the polarity, pulls in or pushes out the core connected to the valve stem.

Such shut-off and control devices are used both in complex industrial installations, and in home heating systems, water supply, household appliances. They are also used in vehicles running on liquid fuel.

Valve device

The composition of the main parts and assemblies of the solenoid valve largely coincides with a conventional manually operated device:

• Housing with inlet and outlet pipes.
• Working chamber with saddle.
• Disc, ball or petal locking element.
• Return spring.
• Rod connected to shut-off element and solenoid core
• Solenoid.

The magnetic valve body is made of metal non-magnetic alloys or durable plastics. The high tightness of the body allows the valve to be used in various environments, including active ones. Solenoid valves for water use rubber as sealing gaskets; for more active media, fluoroplastic is chosen. The solenoid must open and close the valve thousands or even tens of thousands of times during its service life, so the highest quality windings are used. copper wires, covered with insulating enamel.

The solenoid valve is controlled via wires; for their connection, contact groups are provided on the outside of the body.

The device must be resistant to external electromagnetic fields, noise and vibration.

There are other types of electromechanical drives, such as pneumatic or hydraulic.

Operating principle of electromagnetic systems

The operating principle of the solenoid shut-off valve is based on physical phenomenon electromagnetic induction. When current flows through an inductor, a magnetic field arises inside it, acting on a core of magnetic materials with a force applied in the longitudinal direction. This force, depending on the polarity of the applied voltage, tries to pull the core inside the coil or push it out. In this case, the shutter element opens or closes.

Solenoid valve coils can operate on either 5 to 36 volt DC or 220 V AC.

Devices with low control voltage have low power and limited force transmitted to the locking element. This allows the use of low-voltage semiconductor circuits to control them. Such devices are used in low-pressure systems working environment, on pipelines of small diameters.

Drives operating on alternating current develop much greater forces and can be used on main pipelines of high pressure and large diameters.

About the types of products

Products are classified according to several parameters.

Based on the position of the locking element in the absence of voltage on the coil, the following are distinguished:

• Normally open, or BUT. The passage for liquid or gas is open, but when voltage is applied, it closes.
• Normally closed, or NC. The passage for the medium is blocked, and when voltage is applied it opens.

Some models are produced as universal ones, and normally the position of the locking element is adjusted during installation and connection to the control network. Such switched devices are called bistable.

Three-way valves of the first type are used to redirect flows from one circuit to another (for example, in a heating system). This allows you to maintain the temperature of the working environment constant without changing the operating parameters of the heat source. Devices of the second type are used to mix two streams having different temperatures. A typical example serves as a single lever ball mixer in the kitchen or bathroom.

Area of ​​use

Solenoid valves are used in a wide variety of areas human activity, wherever there is a need to control the flow of liquids and gases remotely. This includes:

• Domestic heating systems.
• Water supply and water treatment systems.
• Technological installations.
• Pipeline transport.
• Heat generation and distribution.
• Household appliances.
• Sewerage.
• Irrigation.
• Vehicles.

The use of solenoid valves in transport is gradually declining as more and more more types vehicles are switching to electric energy sources and abandoning liquid fuels and hydraulics, replacing them with more reliable electric drives. Similar prospects are visible in heating systems. But in water supply, sewerage and other industries, the role of electromagnetic gates will only increase.

Advantages of solenoid valves for water

The main advantage of the device is the ability to remotely and quickly regulate the flow of the working environment. Without electromagnetic shutters, the operation of complex technological installations and simple household appliances, such as a coffee maker and washing machine, becomes impossible.

In addition, the electric drive allows:

• Connect the solenoid valve to a centralized and automated control system. This greatly increases the accuracy and efficiency of parameter adjustments compared to manual control.
• Reduce labor costs for managing technological processes.
• Increase production safety and eliminate operator exposure harmful factors production environment.
• Increase the efficiency of household appliances and production plants through precise and fast control of the flow of working media and their parameters.

An important advantage of a solenoid drive compared to an electric motor and gearbox is the absence of gear and worm gears, exceptional simplicity of the device and a minimum of moving parts.

This ensures high equipment reliability, minimal wear and a long service life.

The disadvantage of this type of device is the inability to smooth adjustment shutter opening degree. Only two positions are provided: “open” and “closed”.

DIY water solenoid valve installation

Before proceeding with installation, you must determine the type of connection. The most commonly used are:

• Threaded. The inlet and outlet pipes are equipped with external or internal threads; through the corresponding fittings, the fittings are built into the pipeline gap. Most convenient for self-installation, it is better to choose this type of connection.
• Flanged. The pipes are equipped with flanges; the ends of the pipes must also have flanges of the appropriate standard size; they are tightened together with bolts. Provide high blood pressure and flow intensity, are more often used on high and medium pressure lines.

Before installing the device, a number of preparatory operations should be performed. Pipes must be marked, cut to size and cleaned. The location for installing the electromagnetic device must provide free access to the device for its installation, maintenance and repair. Experienced professionals also formulated several recommendations:

• All work on installing or removing the device can only be carried out when disconnected from the network.
• The pipeline system must be supplemented with a mechanical cleaning filter. This will prevent contamination and damage to parts by foreign matter such as sand, rust flakes and lime deposits.
• The device body should not bear the weight of the pipeline section.
• The device should be connected in accordance with the arrows marked on the housing. They indicate the direction of flow.
• When installed outdoors, the valve should be protected from exposure natural phenomena. A waterproof casing is usually sufficient. When working in conditions low temperatures it is necessary to ensure heating of the casing.
• Threaded connections must be sealed with FUM tape or plumbing thread.
• Cable for connecting to control system you should choose copper. He must have enough cross section not less than 2 mm 2.

The selection of a specific model is carried out based on calculations of the parameters of the pipeline system.

The pressure, pipe cross-section, required response speed and characteristics of the controlled medium should be taken into account.

Signs of a malfunctioning carburetor solenoid valve

In carburetors latest models A solenoid fuel supply control drive is used. How to check the solenoid valve for serviceability?

Its breakdown is determined by the following signs:

• The engine runs unsteadily at low speeds.
• The motor stalls when coasting.
• After turning off the engine, detonation of the working mixture is observed.

Indirect signs of a malfunction are also a decrease in speed when connecting powerful electricity consumers, such as a radio, low or high beam, heated windows.

Valve check

The carburetor valve should be checked in the following modes:

• Idling. After starting, increase the speed to 2100 and listen to the carburetor. A sharp characteristic sound should be heard indicating the shutter is closing. Next, smoothly reduce the speed to 1900; an opening click should be heard.
• Engine braking. You need to let off the gas without changing gear. In this case, a working valve will not work, even if the speed has dropped to 1900. If a click is heard, the device is faulty.
• After stopping the engine. If, when the ignition is turned off, spontaneous outbreaks of the detonating working mixture continue in the cylinders, the engine jerks and vibrates - this means that the valve does not shut off the fuel supply to the chambers and further to the cylinders.
• If you pull the solenoid valve power wire out of the connector while the engine is running, the engine should stall. If it continues to work, it means the valve is faulty.

In addition to ways to check the solenoid valve “on the go,” you can unscrew the valve from the carburetor body and try to apply voltage to it from the battery. One wire from the battery is connected to the contact block, the other to the body of the device. When voltage is applied, the valve should click and pull the needle inward. After the circuit opens, another click is heard and the return spring retracts the needle. At the same time, you can check whether the parts of the device are contaminated with resinous deposits. They need to be soaked in gasoline and removed with a soft cloth.

It is also necessary to check whether control voltage is supplied to the contacts. Its normal value is 10.5-14.4 volts. If there is voltage on the control unit, but not on the contact, it means the wire is faulty. It needs to be repaired or replaced.

If there is no voltage at the control unit connector, then most likely the unit itself is faulty. It is checked by connecting the valve to the battery with another temporary wire. A voltmeter or test light is connected to the terminal of the control unit that controls the valve. Next, you should start the engine. When the speed reaches 900 rpm, the light should flash, and at 2100 rpm it should go out. If you reduce the defense to 1900 rpm, it will flare up again. This behavior of the light bulb means the control unit is working properly. If the light does not light up or go out at all, and also turns on and off at different speeds, the control unit is subject to in-depth testing and, possibly, replacement.

Pipeline operation for various purposes assumes that the liquid and gaseous media that are transported through them must move in a certain direction. By making a check valve with your own hands or purchasing a serial model, you can meet this requirement for the operation of the pipeline and its equipment, which will allow long time keep them in working order.

Purpose and principle of operation of the device

Backflow in piping systems can occur for a variety of reasons. If we are talking about liquid media, such a reason may be a pump shutdown, and in the case of ventilation, an incorrect installation of the exhaust pipe or a small amount of incoming air. Whatever causes the reverse flow of the working medium in the pipeline system, such a phenomenon is extremely undesirable, since it can lead not only to incorrect operation of the elements of such a system, but also to their failure.

To prevent the formation of reverse flow in the pipeline system, as mentioned above, check valves are installed on it, which may differ in both their appearance both dimensions and design. The main function of such a device, installed on pipelines through which liquid and gaseous media are transported, is to pass the working flow in one direction and block its movement at the moment when it begins to move in the opposite direction.

The design of check valves, regardless of their type, consists of the following elements:

• a housing, the inner part of which is formed by two communicating cylinders;
• a shut-off element, which can be a ball, a valve or a cylindrical spool;
• a spring that presses the locking element against seat located at the outlet of the valve through hole.

The principle of operation of the check valve is quite simple and is as follows.

• After the flow of the working medium entering the valve reaches the required pressure, the spring pressing the locking element is pressed out, allowing gas or liquid to freely pass through the internal cavity of the device.
• If the pressure of the working fluid flow in the pipeline drops, the spring returns the shut-off element to the closed state, blocking the flow in the opposite direction.

There are many check valves available on the market today. various types, which allows you to select such devices to solve specific purposes. Meanwhile, many home craftsmen, guided by a natural desire to save money, make check valves with their own hands and share drawings and diagrams of their homemade products on the Internet.

Making your own check valve for water

A homemade check valve for installation on a pipeline through which water is transported does not require expensive manufacturing consumables and sophisticated equipment, which makes it possible to save big. So, to make a check valve yourself, you need to prepare:

• a coupling with an external thread cut into its body;
• female tee;
• a spring, the diameter of which allows it to freely enter the tee;
• a steel ball, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the cross-section of the internal cavity in the tee;
• screw plug;
• sealing tape FUM.

If you have not found a spring suitable in diameter, you can make it yourself, using a rod of the appropriate diameter and a rigid steel wire. It is necessary to drill a hole in the rod on which the homemade spring will be wound, and the end of the wire will be inserted into it. To make winding the spring more convenient, the rod can be clamped in a vice, and the wire winding itself can be done using pliers.

After all the materials for making a homemade check valve have been prepared, you can begin assembly, which is performed in the following sequence.

• A coupling is screwed into the internal threaded hole of the tee. This is done in such a way that it overlaps the side hole by approximately 2 mm. It is necessary to fulfill this requirement when tightening the coupling so that the ball, which will be located in the inner part of the tee, does not jump out into its side hole.
• A ball is first inserted into the hole located on the opposite side of the tee, and then a spring.
• The hole in the tee into which the ball and spring were inserted is plugged with a screw plug, tightened using FUM tape.

A check valve made according to the proposed scheme will work as follows: the flow of water entering such a device from the coupling side will push away the ball, pressed by the spring, and exit through the perpendicularly located hole of the tee.

The most important thing when making a check valve of the proposed design with your own hands is to correctly adjust the spring so that it does not deviate at the moment when the water pressure in the pipeline decreases, and at the same time is not too tight so as not to impede the flow of water passing through the device. In addition, all threaded connections must be made very well to ensure absolute tightness of the check valve.

How to make a check valve for ventilation systems

The question of how to make a check valve to equip a ventilation system is no less pressing than making a similar device for water supply or sewerage. By installing a check valve in ventilation system, you will reliably protect your home from polluted and cold air entering such a system from the outside.

It should be noted that the check valve of the proposed design, when compared with serial models, is no less efficient and can successfully serve you for two to three years.

So, the manufacture of a homemade check valve to equip the ventilation system is carried out in the following sequence.

1. First of all, it is necessary to manufacture the main element of the check valve - the plate on which the flaps will be fixed. To create such a plate, which is cut strictly according to the shape and dimensions of the ventilation duct, you can use sheet textolite or other durable plastic 3–5 mm thick.
2. It is necessary to drill holes along the edges of the sawn plate, with the help of which it will be connected to the fan and fixed in the exhaust duct. In addition, holes must be drilled in the central part of the plate. This is necessary so that air can pass through it freely. The capacity of your ventilation system will depend on how many holes you drill in such a plate.
3. The plate should be fixed in the exhaust pipe using sealant and a sealing gasket. It is also necessary to place rubber gaskets under the places where the plate will be fixed with screws. This way you will reduce the level of noise and vibration in your ventilation system.
4. A piece of dense film is cut out according to the shape and size of the plate, the thickness of which should be at least 0.1 mm. From the film, which is glued to the plate along its edge, the flaps of a homemade check valve will be formed in the future.
5. The exhaust pipe, in which a plate with a film glued to it is already installed, must be installed in ventilation duct using dowels or screws for these purposes. After installing a check valve in the ventilation duct, it is necessary to reliably seal the gaps between the walls of the duct and the exhaust pipe.

The final stage of installing a homemade check valve in a ventilation system is cutting the film glued to the plate into two equal halves. When performing this procedure, for which it is best to use a sharp mounting knife, you must ensure that the cut is perfectly even.

The principle by which the check valve of the design proposed above works is quite simple and is as follows.

• Nothing interferes with the flow of air that passes through such a valve in the direction from the room: the flaps open and allow it to pass freely.
• When reverse draft occurs in the ventilation system, the check valve flaps close securely, preventing outside air from entering the room.

Thus, this check valve, which is of the membrane type, reliably protects the ventilated room not only from polluted and cold air, but also from foreign odors.

1, average rating: 5,00 out of 5)

Summer is the best season for innocent water fun in the country house and surrounding areas. Why at the dachas? Because I wouldn't use this valve at home. What are we talking about?
Let's try to figure it out.
So, let's get started!

In fact, this part of automation is still completely unexplored for me,
however, I would like to find a budget option for experimentation. Fortunately, there is a dacha and often, for certain reasons, the possibility of my presence on it does not coincide with the desired water distribution schedule... What exactly is this for?
There are a lot of options - automatically distribute water to certain areas of the dacha, automatically fill an additional container (since the water supply is limited in time, and the water pressure does not allow you to do everything at once).

1/2 thread, no external casing, cast coil, metal mesh at the entrance to the valve, water supply arrow (input-output) on the body, operating principle - membrane, under the action of a spring, closing the valve. The valve is normally closed.

The seller sends with a track that is absolutely not tracked.

Seller details:

Data from device:

I want to say right away that the seller’s data does not coincide with reality, although the data on the nameplate is more reliable (except for zero pressure).

Firstly, and this is the most important factor - for systems with low pressure the valve WILL NOT work! He needs support to open the membrane.
Secondly, the current consumed by the coil is 2! (TWO) times more - 430 mA, and during prolonged operation, it heats up significantly. True, the valve begins to open around 7-8 V.

Now let's start preparing the patient:

We unscrew the 4 screws and see: a whole cast plastic frame, a rubber valve, a cylindrical flask containing a metal core and a spring that supports the valve in a closed state. On the left in the photo is the water inlet, on the right is the outlet.
As you can see, there is a threat of leakage and there is a threat of failure due to the unprotected core and spring from rust.

PROS: simplicity of design, low cost.
DISADVANTAGES: plastic threads and housing, high current consumption, lack of additional sealant other than a rubber membrane, inability to use in systems with low pressure.

It remains to test it in combat conditions.