Garlic is used for food by all peoples of the world. It is an ingredient in many spice mixes. In cooking, garlic is added to salads, soups, sauces, meat, cereals, vegetables, mushrooms, fish, flour, egg dishes, offal, poultry, game, seafood dishes.
Garlic gives a pleasant aroma to pickles, sauerkraut, marinades, while protecting food from spoilage. In the USA, England and some other countries, garlic leaves are put in salads. They are much richer than bulbs in vitamin.
But garlic is not only tasty, garlic increases the body's resistance to colds and other infectious diseases, stimulates appetite, improves digestion and heart function, dilates blood vessels, lowers blood sugar, supports the function of brain cells, has a diuretic, mild diaphoretic, antiscorbutic, antiseptic and pain relieving properties.
And garlic contains phytoncides and bactericidal substances. Garlic is rich in vitamin C (8-10 mg in the bulb, up to 55 mg in the leaves). Bulbs contain carbohydrates, polysaccharides, inulin, phytosterols, vitamins A, B, D, PP, minerals(iodine, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium), trace elements, organic acids.
Impressive? If yes, then we urgently plant garlic before winter! Of course, it would be better to prepare the land a month before planting garlic, but I think if you risk a couple of heads, then there will be a lot of damage family budget you will not apply, and next year you will act strictly according to science, although science is science, and everyone chooses a landing method specifically for themselves, their area and their capabilities.
Garlic is winter and spring. Winter garlic is planted before winter so that the teeth take root, but do not have time to form leaves. We will now plant winter garlic, and we will deal with spring garlic in the spring.
Fertile neutral soils are allotted for garlic. The best predecessors for winter garlic - cucumbers, pumpkin, zucchini, cabbage, legumes and green crops. It is impossible to grow garlic on soils where onions and garlic grew earlier than after 3-4 years, and you can’t plant garlic after potatoes, tomatoes, as this contributes to the damage of garlic by fusarium and nematode.
Garlic is planted from September 20 to October 10. Early-planted garlic sprouts, and late-planted - freezes. Winter garlic is usually planted 25-35 days before a cold snap. During these days, the planted teeth should take root and form a good root system, but at the same time leaves should not sprout from the teeth.
For autumn planting, freshly harvested winter garlic is used. Healthy, well-dried bulbs are selected for planting. They are divided into teeth, avoiding mechanical damage. The teeth are calibrated in size for large and medium. Small teeth are best left for eating.
Then, it is best to soak the teeth for 5-6 minutes in Fitosporin, and use the solution to spill all the beds on which you will plant garlic, bulbs or small sets. After that, the teeth, without washing with water, are planted on the ridges.
What is a bulb: winter garlic forms flower arrows, at the end of which, instead of an inflorescence, air bulbs develop - bulbs. If gardeners are interested in getting large underground heads of garlic, then the flower arrows, soon after they appear, are cut obliquely, leaving a small column, up to 2-3 cm, the remaining tail can be sprinkled with ashes.
When planting winter garlic with teeth, a lot of garlic is consumed, this is completely unprofitable. Therefore, on best plants garlic leaves arrows with inflorescences. After waiting for the inflorescence wrapper to burst and the air bulbs to acquire the color characteristic of the variety, the plants are completely pulled out of the soil and dried.
Before sowing, air bulbs are released from the inflorescence, the largest are selected and sown before winter from September 25 to October 10. From one small bulb in July, a decent single-tooth grows, which will be the most best material for planting before winter on a large bulb of garlic.
Small onions are planted - bulbs on a small bed. Its height can be 12-15 cm, width - no more than 90 cm. For 1 sq.m. add 3 kg of humus or compost, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate, dig up and level. Across the beds, grooves are made 2-3 cm deep with a distance of 10 cm from each other, in which the bulbs are laid out at a distance of 1-2 cm from each other. Then the grooves are covered with soil, compacted a little and left before winter.
If the winter promises to be cold, then the beds are mulched, that is, they are covered with sawdust with a layer of 2-3 cm. They are removed in the spring, as soon as the soil begins to thaw. Planting care during the spring-summer period is the same as for garlic when planting with teeth.
Let's get back to winter garlic. If "Fitosporin" is not at hand, and you want to plant garlic right now, then you can rinse it in a solution of table salt (3 tablespoons per 5 liters of water) for 1 minute, and then lower it for 1 minute in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon spoon for 10 liters of water).
There is another option - before planting, the whole head of garlic is soaked in a saline solution (3 tablespoons of table salt per 10 liters of water). Garlic is kept in this solution for 10 minutes, after which it is washed in running water and only then divided into cloves. And the land in the beds can be treated with a solution of copper sulfate.
A bed for garlic is made in a sunny, dry place. Width - 100-110 cm. In addition, a bucket of peat per 1 sq.m. is added to clay soils. For 1 sq.m. loamy soil contribute 3 kg of manure humus and compost, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, as well as 1 glass of dolomite flour, or chalk, or fluffy lime. IN peat soils make 1 bucket of loamy soil, sandy - 2 buckets of clay soil and 1 bucket of peat and everything that is recommended for loamy soil.
Very often, yellowing of the leaves is observed in winter garlic. There are several reasons for this: plants can freeze even in winter, and acidic soil is often the cause of yellowing of garlic leaves.
For normal growth and development of garlic, you need a neutral one. Deoxidation of the soil is carried out by adding chalk, dolomite flour or calcium nitrate. In garlic planted before winter, the cause of yellowing of the leaves is often a lack of nitrogen. This nutrient, when it is introduced into the soil in the autumn in the nitrate form, is washed out of the soil during the autumn-winter-spring period. Still, it is better to apply nitrogen fertilizers for winter garlic in early spring.
The earth for winter garlic is dug up to a depth of 18-20 cm, then the bed is leveled and slightly compacted. And after all, they are treated with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1 liter. per 1 sq.m. beds. Then the bed is covered with a film until the garlic is planted. This is how science should work.
Garlic is planted with five-line ribbons with a distance between lines of 20 cm, between plants (depending on the soil and size of the planting material) 6-8 cm. The planting depth is 6-8 cm, which also depends on the soil and the size of the teeth. Deep planting of large cloves and single cloves in autumn contributes to the rapid rooting of plants and their preservation from freezing. Just before the frosts, a garden bed with garlic is covered with peat, humus or sawdust with a layer of 3-4 cm, and when the snow falls, they throw it over.
If the winter went well, and garlic shoots appeared, then the first dressing is done when 3-4 leaves are formed. It is necessary to fertilize with organic and mineral nitrogen fertilizers: urea, ammonium nitrate - at the rate of 2 tablespoons of the drug per 10 liters. water.
The second top dressing is done at the beginning of the formation of the bulbs, around the second decade of June. At 10l. 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska are diluted with water, 3-4 liters are consumed. solution per 1 sq.m. After watering and top dressing, the soil between the rows is loosened.
It is good to feed every 10 days with chicken manure (1 liter of litter per 10 liters of water) or mullein (1 liter of mullein per 8 liters of water). A bucket of solution is spent on 5 square meters. m, pouring it under the root. With absence organic fertilizers use mineral (75 g of garden mixture per 10 liters of water for the same planting area).
Garlic is moisture-loving. Unlike other vegetables, it can be watered cold water, but, it will grow better if watered with water warmed in the sun. If the year turned out to be with a dry spring, it is useful to mulch all plantings of garlic after the first watering with humus or peat with a layer of 1-1.5 cm. Watering is stopped 20 days before harvesting.
It is very important not to miss the time of harvesting winter garlic. In case of delay, the scales (wrappers) of the bulbs burst, and over time, the heads break up into teeth, which reduces the shelf life. Garlic is harvested in the third decade of July. Harvesting is started when the outer leaves turn completely yellow, and the middle ones - one third or a quarter from above.
Garlic is carefully dug up with a pitchfork and dried under scattered sunshine or in the shade of a ventilated room for several days, preferably in a suspended state in bundles of 18-20 pieces. The roots are cut, leaving 2 cm. When picking garlic, it is not necessary to shake off the ground from the heads with blows. Remove the earth carefully so as not to scratch or break the first scales, on which the shelf life depends.
I hope that everything will work out for you, and you will be able to show off for a long time, showing your friends and acquaintances the heads of garlic grown on your site.
16.10.2018
If the garlic has sprouted, what should I do?
Sometimes the garlic sprouts in the fall and gardeners ask, "What can be done to preserve it?" And some fear that the garlic will die, and it must be planted again. What are we to expect?
According to observations experienced gardeners, garlic does not often die, even if it sprouted in November. Only in case of severe frosts without snow or after a very harsh winter does the garlic freeze in the ground. Usually, only the tips of the first leaves that popped out in the fall freeze slightly.
However, this phenomenon greatly reduces the yield and keeping quality of future bulbs. Therefore, you need to plant garlic so that it does not have time to germinate.
In old literary sources and some articles on the Internet recommend planting garlic in September. But for last years the weather has changed: autumn has become naughty with late thaws, and sometimes they happen in December!
In this regard, it is necessary to reconsider the timing of planting and plant garlic no earlier than mid-October. The roots of garlic are able to grow at a soil temperature of +4..5 degrees, but if such a degree (and even higher) lasts a long time, then the arrow begins to grow.
What to do now? In principle, even without your participation, garlic can be preserved. Its viability is calculated on the fact that sometimes weather disasters occur in nature. But if you put in the effort, you can help the garlic survive the winter better.
So what are we going to do? Mulch! This universal technique was invented by nature itself. For example, in forests where wild onions and garlic are found, the mulching material is leaves and withered grass. In the garden, you can also use this material.
You can also fill the bed with compost or rotted manure (if it is covered with a film, then it probably has not frozen yet). Suitable peat, sawdust and coniferous litter from the forest. If none of this is available, then collect a few buckets of earth from the greenhouse. A polycarbonate greenhouse keeps heat well, the earth does not freeze there for a long time and remains loose.
Cover the bed with any mulching material so that the sprouted garlic leaves hide under this "fur coat". In winter, this will protect them from drying out in the cold.
Prefers sandy soils. The beds for it are prepared in advance, a week and a half before planting. The soil is dug up to a depth of 25 cm, weeds are carefully removed, 5-6 kg of humus (but not fresh manure!), 30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium salt per 1 sq. m. A day or two before planting add ammonium nitrate at the rate of 10-12 g per 1 square. m. Dry soil is watered.
Before planting, several teeth need to be "undressed" and inspected: teeth with signs of rot, mold, and numerous yellow spots (bacterial spotting) are unsuitable for planting. Garlic should be well dried, dampish will quickly start to grow.
To protect garlic from diseases, it can be soaked for 2-3 hours in a warm solution of potassium permanganate Pink colour. More effective disinfection: 3 minutes in a solution of table salt (1 tablespoon per 2 liters of water), then 3 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 2 liters of water).
For planting, the largest cloves are selected from the largest bulbs. Parsing is carried out immediately before planting - otherwise the bottom of the clove, on which the roots form, will dry out. The old maternal bottom must be removed, as it will play the role of a cork.
Rows on a well-leveled bed are placed at a distance of 20-25 cm, leaving 10-12 cm between plants. Can be planted in grooves. The main thing is not to press the teeth into the ground, this will delay the growth of the roots. In addition, the compacted earth can then push the garlic to the surface, and it will freeze. But the earth should not be too loose either (you need to lightly tamp it down with a board), because then the cloves can “drown” and the bulbs will turn out to be small and will not be stored well.
Planting depth depends on the type of soil and the size of the cloves. From its crown to the surface of the soil should be 3-4 cm. Too shallow planting threatens with freezing. Plantings need to be mulched with a layer of peat, humus or sawdust 2-5 cm thick, spread out brushwood to hold snow in the beds. Remove the mulch layer in the spring to keep the plants warm.
Care is quite traditional: systematic loosening, weed removal. Watering is necessary during active growth (otherwise a large head will not form), and is not needed during the ripening period of the bulbs.
If necessary, carry out top dressing: in early spring- urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) and one or two more in the summer. You can use slurry bird droppings, diluted 12-15 times. Feed (and water) garlic only under the root. If the leaves have become too light, it means that it needs to be fed with a solution of nitrophoska (2 tablespoons per bucket of water).
When the arrows of the arrowing garlic grow to 10 cm, they should be removed, otherwise good harvest may not be counted. Some strong plants you can leave "for divorce" and let the bulbs ripen.
Shortly before harvesting, the soil is raked from the bulbs - this contributes to the ripening of the garlic. And they remove it when they turn yellow lower leaves at the end of July - beginning of August. By the way, winter garlic ripens better than spring garlic. Scales become dense, durable. It is not worth overdoing the garlic in the garden: the bulb will begin to disintegrate into teeth, germinate and will be poorly stored.
Exists cold way storage of garlic (in a dry room at a temperature of 0-3 ° C) and warm - at room temperature.
Almost all gardeners plant garlic in the fall. autumn planting garlic is called winter. And there is also spring garlic, which is planted in the spring.
Unlike spring garlic, winter garlic hibernates in the garden and begins to grow with the first warm rays of the spring sun. Winter garlic has much larger heads and cloves, which may be why gardeners prefer it. Or maybe because you want something so that in the spring there is a little less work. Yes, and garlic greens in early spring are a great help in the first green salads.
By the way, what is the first salad you make in spring? We have the very first salad of everything that is just beginning to turn green on the earth waking up from winter: garlic greens (planted everywhere under berry bushes and growing like a perennial), from the greens of perennial onions (slizun, chives), very tender and VERY healthy, hard boiled eggs and sunflower oil as a condiment.
However, back to planting garlic in the fall before winter.
Days of planting garlic before winter
You can choose any days for planting garlic before winter after September 20, but it’s better, nevertheless, in the first decade of October, because in September the weather is still not stable enough, which can suddenly turn into warming, which will be inappropriate for garlic cloves in the ground.
Garlic cloves in the soil should have time to take root before winter, but in no case should they give greenery. Even if the weather is warm enough (without frost) even in the first two weeks after planting, then this is not bad for rooting. But then it is desirable that the temperature does not rise above +5 degrees. And this is just the beginning of October.
One year it turned out that I had to plant it under the snow in October. It is not very comfortable when you have to break through the frozen earthen crust, so it is better to choose good and more comfortable weather for planting garlic in the fall.
And yet, some gardeners argue that it is better to plant in the snow, then garlic will certainly not give green sprouts. This is a controversial point, since the teeth not only do not germinate, but also do not take root. And, if they sprout in the spring, then only on the occasion of a favorable winter, during which they simply survived: they did not rot and did not freeze without a root system.
In short, the days of planting garlic before winter should be on the border of heat and cold: on the eve of the onset of stable cold weather, interspersed with small night frosts that melt under the rays of the daytime sun.
Beds for planting garlic before winter
In the garden for planting garlic before winter, it is necessary to add ash or dolomite flour Beds for planting garlic before winter should be prepared a few days before planting day. Although it is possible for a longer period, if you planned to plant siderates, which still have time to grow.
The preparation of the bed is as follows:
- should be dug up or loosened (whoever is used to it)
- you can add humus, because during the season the soil gave everything it could and you need to somehow replenish its fertility
- pour 0.5 buckets per square meter ash or 0.5 kg of dolomite flour, because only garlic and onions from all garden crops prefer alkaline soil. Therefore, it is not worth saving on deoxidizing mixtures.
- form with ridges: align and make sides. Along the way, mix dolomite flour with soil.
Once again, the fact that garlic requires alkaline soil: the introduction of humus or rotted manure shifts the ph of the soil to the acid side, so you will need to add an increased amount of ash to normalize the ph.
For this reason, it is better to sow mustard in advance on the bed for garlic and plant garlic directly on the mustard. By October, she will already gain a good green mass and, when frosts come, she will cover the garlic, saving her from the cold.
Under the snow, mustard will form a dense carpet and will protect all winter until spring not only garlic, but also living good soil bacteria. Such a bed in the spring will wake up faster than the others. In the spring, it is not even necessary to remove the cover layer of rotted mustard from its surface: the garlic will sprout through it and will feel great under such protection.
Processing garlic before planting before winter
Processing garlic before planting before winter includes a couple of measures to disinfect the cloves:
- soak the garlic cloves in a solution of table salt (2 tablespoons per 1 liter of water) for 5 minutes. Garlic responds very well to salt: its strength of germination and development increases. In addition, salt is a good antiseptic.
- rinse with plain water
- hold in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (a little stronger than pink) for 5 minutes
- can be used instead of potassium permanganate blue vitriol: 1/4 teaspoon per 2.5 liters of water for 1-2 minutes
Someone else likes to trim the butt: a thin root layer to renew it, thinking that then roots will form faster. Although, this is a controversial issue, since any cut is an environment for decay, especially in conditions of high humidity and cold.
Still want to stop at planting material garlic:
- from a large head of garlic for planting, you need to take only large extreme cloves, and let medium, smaller ones into food
- a good harvest will give cloves from heads with three to four cloves
If your garlic is born with large large heads with big amount teeth - this indicates that it is already old and it is desirable to update it: sow it with seeds.
How to plant garlic in the fall
How to plant garlic in the fall so that it:
- not frozen
- did not go deep into the soil
- came up healthy in the spring
Since we have already discussed the time of planting, preparing the cloves for planting and preparing a bed for garlic, it remains to be clarified how to plant the cloves themselves in the ground:
- the distance between the teeth in a row should be 12-15cm. This is the most optimal value so that the growing garlic will not be cramped in the future. The larger the cloves, the larger the bulbs will grow, the more space they need. Garlic should not grow in cramped conditions, it loves freedom.
- the distance between the rows should be at least 30 cm so that it is not crowded and that it is possible to loosen and weed with the help of Fokin's flat cutter.
- if you plant in a bed with low mustard, then nothing needs to be done with mustard. Directly along it you need to make holes in the soil with thick cuttings so that you can safely lower (throw) garlic cloves into them. Depth -5-6cm. If the mustard is high, then first you need to cut it a little, pull it up (although I would not do this either).
- if the bed is without green manure, then you can simply make holes with your hand (like a spatula) and lower the cloves there. In no case should they be pressed even if the soil is very loose.
- it is better to sprinkle the holes with something loose: sand, rotted sawdust, humus, fertile soil. Loose and fertile soil is better, so that in the spring it is comfortable for garlic to sprout and there is something to “feast on” at first.
Some gardeners ask: "Do I need to cover the garden for the winter?"
I can't give a specific answer because it depends on the region. For example, we have middle lane Russia, winters are very cold, but snowy. We never cover it, because under a 2-meter layer of snow, garlic certainly will not freeze. Why don't you cover mustard and other green manure?!
In addition, the question immediately arises: “When to cover?”. How not to miss with shelter: cover early - garlic will rise. If you cover when the frosts crashed, then it may already be useless.
And why hide? Winter garlic is winter because it does not care about winter. Planting garlic in the fall before winter is a delicate matter, but not so difficult.
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Garlic can be found in any garden. Many summer residents are trying to plant this culture, as it is very much appreciated by its useful properties. In order for her harvest to be large, you should know exactly when to plant garlic before winter. In addition, it is necessary to study all the rules for planting a plant and find out the timing of the collection of ripe heads.
Harvest of garlic depends on the right time
Why garlic should be planted in the fall
Many summer residents, having heard the question of when to plant winter garlic, boldly answer: in the fall. But why did they choose this particular season of the year? And here are some of the main reasons:
- Planting garlic in the fall guarantees an early harvest. Seedlings germinate evenly.
- Planting in autumn allows you to collect garlic with large heads, on which the cloves are clearly divided.
- Winter garlic, if put into the ground in autumn, has time to adapt to the upcoming cold weather. This is for him a kind of hardening, which is sometimes not enough. garden plants. Such garlic is not afraid of frequent and sudden changes in temperature, it is resistant to many pests.
Planting garlic in the fall should be done 3 weeks before frost
Winter garlic will never face such a problem as spring drought. The plant will receive all the necessary moisture from snowmelt.
Thanks to this summer resident, it is not necessary to water the beds until the summer heat begins.
These reasons will certainly convince the summer resident to plant the crop in the fall. It remains only to choose the day when it is worth doing this business.
Planting time for winter garlic
Summer residents are used to planting winter garlic in the fall. At this point, it is important to accurately calculate the month and approximate days when such work should be done.
If the time is chosen incorrectly, then the crop simply will not give a good harvest.
Bed preparation must be done in advance
Planting too early will cause the plants to germinate in the fall. And this cannot be allowed. After all, the inputs will be too weak. They will not be able to withstand the winter cold. Negative consequences will float if planting the garlic too late. By the first frosts, the seedlings should at least get a little stronger and get used to the new place. Cold deprives them of this opportunity.
That is, they should fall at the end of September beginning of October. But there are more risky summer residents among them. They prefer to plant garlic seedlings in the ground towards the end of August. And they get the same result. Culture is actively starting to move arrows. By the next year, large garlic sprouts from it in large quantities. True or not, everyone can check for himself. But you need to understand that such an emergency planting can completely deprive the crop.
Before frost, the garlic should take root
Choosing a specific date for planting winter garlic
The timing of planting winter garlic can be very difficult to determine. It is impossible to single out one specific time that is suitable for everyone. Actually in this matter great importance have climatic conditions the region where winter garlic is planned to be planted.
It is necessary to plant garlic on a waning moon
The most difficult thing is to determine the time for planting for a gardener who first decided to grow this crop on his own plot. As mentioned earlier, it is recommended to do such work before the onset of cold weather.
For landing work, a day is selected that corresponds to the following indicators:
There is no precipitation outside. It is recommended to immerse seedlings in dry soil. Rain may cause the material to get wet. In a humid environment, garlic will quickly deteriorate and rot. And this always leads to the fact that the seedlings get sick and die. So, the summer resident will not wait for his harvest.
Time to Plant Garlic - Harvesting Winter Apples and Pumpkins
The air temperature should not be below 12 degrees Celsius. Ideally, it does not exceed 16 degrees. If it is hotter outside, then there is a risk of premature germination of the crop. And the cold will not let her take root.
The weather outside should be dry and preferably calm.
Choose the time for landing is solely on weather conditions. In order not to be mistaken, it is recommended to study the weather forecast for the coming weeks. You don't have to rely on just one source. To be sure, you can read the weather information on several sites that give correct forecasts in most cases.
Folk signs and the lunar calendar to help summer residents
Our ancestors often used folk signs that allowed them to determine the right day for planting a crop. Not all of them work. But every gardener should take a couple of such tips into service.
In the past, our grandfathers and great-grandfathers started planting winter garlic only after almost all the leaves fell from the trees. At this point, it's not too hot outside, but not too cold yet.
They paid attention to the birds. As soon as they were about to fly south, it was possible to start laying garlic seedlings in the prepared beds.
Mass departure of birds - time to plant garlic
Many gardeners continue to watch lunar calendar allowing you to gain a good day for planting garlic in the ground. Preference should be given to periods when the heavenly body is waning. They say that then the harvest will be rich, and the plants themselves will quickly germinate. Pay attention to the stay of the moon.
Lunar calendar 2016 for garlic
If the satellite is in the area of such earth signs as Capricorn, Taurus and Virgo, then the culture will be able to develop and grow well, and the amount of the crop will certainly please the gardener.
Whether to listen to the weather forecast or follow folk omens- everyone decides for himself. If the summer resident still doubts the correctness of choosing the right day for planting winter garlic, he should consult on this matter with summer residents from neighboring plots who have been growing for several years useful culture.
