Often, car owners’ concern for their four-wheeled pet is expressed even more strongly than for themselves. And the construction of a well-equipped and high-quality insulated garage is one of the manifestations of such careful care. The issue of insulating the garage from the inside comes first here. And since the main source of leakage of such precious heat is the garage door leaf, the need arises to decide how to properly insulate garage doors.

It doesn’t matter what the garage space is used for: parking a car, storing things, a workshop, or anything else. The important thing is that it always remains warm. In this publication, we will tell you exactly how to keep the garage warm by insulating its doors. And let's start, perhaps, with a description of the main mistakes that many car enthusiasts make when they acquire a garage and equip it.

• Ventilation. Having a good ventilation system is necessary in any room, and the garage is no exception. Alas, not everyone realizes this. Many people think like this: ventilation holes are an extra source of heat leaving the garage. In essence, this is true. However, their presence is necessary to avoid excess dampness in this room.

• Metal gate design. Many owners of a car home (which, in essence, is a garage), when setting up a garage, install gate leaves of a solid structure, without a gate. Meanwhile, the gate will allow you to achieve less heat loss during the cold season. Whether it’s the case, if we want to get into the garage in winter, we’ll open a small gate for a few seconds, or we’ll have to open a larger gate to do this. The difference, as you can see, is obvious. True, these doors will also have to be insulated. Their insulation is carried out similarly to the insulation of the door leaf.

• Insulation. When deciding how to insulate a garage door, many owners, in an effort to save on insulation, use porous insulation. An example of such an insulating material is mineral wool. The reason why such materials should not be used is the following: most often garage doors are an iron frame with the same door leaf. Moreover, the thickness of the latter does not exceed a few millimeters. Because of this, during the cold season, condensation may form on the inner surface of the canvas due to temperature differences. Porous insulation absorbs this condensate quite well, causing them to lose their main qualities.

Materials

Now let's look at the question of how to insulate garage doors to ensure maximum thermal insulation. Actually, 4 materials are most often used for these purposes:

1. Mineral wool;
2. Extruded foam;
3. Polyurethane foam;
4. Foam plastic.

Each of these 4 materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. Regarding mineral wool, then, as we already wrote above, it is not particularly suitable for insulating garage doors. Polyurethane foam is quite expensive, and not everyone wants to spend a lot of money on a garage. Extruded foam, although it costs less than polyurethane foam, is still not affordable for everyone.

Based on this, we will consider insulating garage doors using polystyrene foam. Although he is quite afraid of fire, taking into account the ratio of the area of ​​the garage door to the area of ​​the rest of the surface of the garage, insulating the garage door with polystyrene foam is quite acceptable.

Preparing for insulation

To insulate a garage door with polystyrene foam, you must complete the following steps:

Before you insulate your garage door, its inside surface must be cleaned. This is done using an iron brush. Particularly large and deep areas of metal corrosion on garage doors can be cleaned using a brush attachment on a drill. After which you need to seal and, if necessary, weld all the cracks and holes on the surface of the gate.

To prevent further formation of corrosion foci, it is necessary to treat the cleaned surface of the gate with some kind of anti-corrosion agent or antiseptic. For these purposes, a completely suitable remedy is heated drying oil, or even better, bitumen mastic. It is applied with a regular wide paint brush in two layers, perpendicular to one another.

After the anti-corrosion coating has dried, it is necessary to create a paving sheathing. It will become the basis for laying and securing insulation from foam boards. This lathing is made from bars with a cross section of 40x40 or 50x50 millimeters. The cross-section of the sheathing bars depends on the width of the end corners of the gate.

It is desirable that the bars are solid. The dimensions of the sheathing cells should be selected in such a way that they correspond as much as possible. The sheathing must be attached to the end corners of the gate. To do this, holes of 4 mm diameter are pre-drilled in the latter. The pitch between such holes should not exceed 200-250 millimeters. Next, the sheathing bars are fastened through the drilled holes with self-tapping screws.

If the design of the garage door is such that it does not imply the possibility of removing the gate from the hinges, a slight problem may arise with attaching the sheathing bar to the lower end corner due to the inability to reach there with a screwdriver or even an ordinary screwdriver. In this case, the block must be secured exclusively at the end. By the way, it is also better to treat the bars with some kind of antiseptic before fixing them. If the gate or wicket has locks, bolts or a ventilation hole, the sheathing must bypass these elements.

When the inner surface of the door is cleaned, treated with anti-corrosion and antiseptic agents, and the lathing is securely fastened, you can begin insulating the garage door with your own hands using polystyrene foam. What does it mean to insulate a garage door with foam? This means covering as much of the gate's surface area as possible with foam. If the dimensions of the sheathing cells do not correspond to the dimensions of the foam plastic slabs, then these same slabs must be adjusted to the size of the cells, using a penknife or an ordinary, but thoroughly sharpened knife along a ruler.

The slabs are cut into pieces based on the width of the cell plus 2-3 millimeters. The same goes for heights. This is done so that the foam boards fit into the cells of the sheathing as tightly as possible.

This installation system will help solve two problems:

1. The foam insulation will be securely clamped between the sheathing bars, which will eliminate the possibility of it sagging and falling out. In this case, no additional seal for the garage door will be needed.
2. Thanks to such a dense laying of the foam, the insulating effect increases significantly. In this case, no additional sealing is required either.

For additional fixation of foam boards, you can use polyurethane foam as glue. However, gate insulation polyurethane foam It's a very risky business. Why is this so? Let us explain: when drying, polyurethane foam tends to expand, creating pressure on the foam board and pushing it out of the sheathing cell. Therefore, for more convenient and comfortable fixation, we recommend using specially designed for such purposes.

As for polyurethane foam, you also cannot do without it. This product is ideal for sealing gaps between the sheathing and the insulation, if any. This is where its expansion properties come in handy. In this case, the foam, expanding, not only presses the insulation against the sheathing frame, but this also achieves better sealing of the insulated surface, for example, swing gates. After drying, excess foam must be trimmed flush (level) with the sheathing frame.

As additional measures For insulation, you can lay a seal for garage doors. This, in fact, rubber or silicone gasket is attached to the ends between the gate leaves. This ensures a tighter fit of the ends of the garage doors to each other, which prevents the penetration of cold air masses into the garage. Such seals are attached using a perforated metal strip and self-tapping screws.

The final stage of insulating garage doors with your own hands is their surface cladding.

To cover the gate, you can use OSB sheets, plastic or wooden lining or corrugated sheets as cladding material. Each of these facing materials has both its plus and minus. Let's take a brief look at them, and at the same time decide what is better to sheathe garage doors.

• Wooden lining. It is one of the most beautiful and practical solutions for facing the door leaf. However, they require pre-treatment with some kind of fire retardant and antiseptic.
• Oriented Strand Board (OSB). Beautiful looking, durable and rot-resistant material. Can be painted or glued.
• Plastic lining. Easy to install and looks attractive. But the strength of this cladding material leaves much to be desired.
• Profile iron sheet. Durable, practical and durable material. However, as experienced garage owners assure, it is better not to cover the door leaf with a profile sheet. The reason for this is a fairly high probability of condensation forming on the side where the insulation is located.

As you can see, of the above facing materials, OSB is the most optimal. Therefore, if you are deciding how and how to insulate garage doors from the inside with your own hands and what to cover them with, oriented strand boards are the optimal material for this.

The optimal board for cladding gates is OSB.

In conclusion of all of the above, we would like to once again point out the importance of the fact that you need to approach the question of how to insulate a garage door with your own hands with full responsibility. A high-quality and reliably insulated garage door with your own hands is a guarantee of a constant acceptable temperature, and therefore the longevity of your mobile vehicle.

A garage is a place to park a car, protecting equipment from bad weather, and a workshop if the car needs repairs. Some residents store equipment, summer supplies for the winter, and old things in this room. For a comfortable stay in this room you need to insulate it.

Many people have no idea how to insulate a garage door from the inside. You can do this work yourself, following the special instructions described below.

Preparing for work

There is an option that is easy to use, but very expensive - to buy a garage door model with built-in insulation and interior finishing. Insulating your garage door yourself will cost much less.

There is no need for this construction education or experience in finishing works, and it will take a little time to insulate. Let's look at how to properly insulate a garage door with your own hands, with all the nuances.

Garage doors are made mainly from sheet steel, so they cannot retain heat in the room. It is not advisable to heat an uninsulated room, since you can get condensation in the room and ice on the walls and gates in severe frosts. Before sheathing the garage door, purchase the material you will use to insulate the garage door.

What material should I use?

You can use different insulation materials; the cheapest and most effective option would be to insulate the garage door with polystyrene foam.

• Foam plastic has a small specific gravity, so no load will be placed on the structure. The material has low thermal conductivity, is environmentally friendly, lasts more than 50 years and does not absorb water. To install thermal insulation, no special tools are needed, since the foam sheet can be easily cut with a simple stationery knife.
• Stone wool(basalt) – fire-resistant fibrous material with high moisture resistance. It is used in any room for sound and heat insulation, does not emit harmful substances. This material is easy to use. Sold in rolls.
• Expanded polystyrene- one of the varieties of polystyrene foam, having the same composition. This material has lower thermal conductivity due to its increased density, and has varying degrees flammability, which is indicated on the packaging. To insulate garage doors, you need to use the NG or G1 brand. This material has a drawback: it is destroyed in the sun, so it requires additional finishing.
• Liquid penoizol- a material that is sprayed from a cylinder and is able to fill all the cracks and bridges of cold. It sets in 15 minutes, hardens within 4 hours, and final strength occurs after three days. The advantage is ease of use, good thermal insulation qualities, and non-flammability. The insulation is seamless, no need to rack your brains about how to seal the gaps between the sheets of material.

It is better to order a garage door with a gate; if it is not provided, then it is better to equip it before the insulation work begins. The gate will help retain heat in the room during renovation work.

Insulation tool

Before you insulate your garage door, you need to prepare the tools necessary for this process:

• screwdriver or drill;
• core;
• screwdrivers;
• square;
• level;
• hard brush;
• sandpaper;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• construction knife.

Almost every owner has this set of tools.

Finishing materials

Even before starting work, you need to decide how to cover the garage door:

• lining;
• corrugated sheeting;
• plywood, moisture resistant;
• PVC panels.

Based on practice, it can be noted that oriented strand board (OSB) has many advantages:

• strength and reliability;
• easy to process;
• does not require additional vapor barrier;
• moisture resistant;
• has an attractive appearance;
• It's inexpensive.

This the material is suitable for rooms with high humidity.

To make a frame for insulation, you need to prepare bars with a cross-section of 40 mm, which are pre-treated with special antiseptic compounds to prevent rotting.

Preparing gates for insulation

Before insulating garage doors, preliminary preparation is carried out. Inspect your swing garage doors for rust and peeling paint. They need to be cleaned well, rust is removed using coarse sandpaper, paint with a stiff wire brush. Next, the entire surface is treated with fine-grained sandpaper for better adhesion.

The next step is to treat the surface with a degreasing solution. After complete drying, anti-corrosion primer is applied in two layers. It is worth noting that the second layer of primer is applied after the first has dried and perpendicular to it.

After the primer comes waterproofing, it is equipped if polystyrene foam is used as insulation; with other materials it is not necessary. Bituminous mastic is easy to use; it is used to carefully coat the door leaf, and it is advisable to glue vapor barrier membranes to it. You can use self-adhesive material "Izolon"

Lathing

When insulating the gate from the inside with your own hands, you must strictly adhere to the instructions described below - this will help you avoid making fatal mistakes.

Lathing - installation of bars, pre-cut to the size of the gate leaf. It is desirable that the bars are solid. There is no need to neglect the framing of deadbolts and ventilation holes around the perimeter.

Before installing the bars, you need to mark the door leaf and tilt the places where the holes for fastenings will be located. The step between the screws should be no more than 25 centimeters. You need to pre-drill holes with a 4 mm drill in the pre-designated locations.

The bars are screwed with self-tapping screws (wood-metal) of the required length. To do this, use a screwdriver. The bars should be 60 centimeters from each other - this distance is just right for the width of the foam layer.

Installation of foam plastic

Insulation of swing garage doors with foam plastic begins with marking and cutting the material. The layers must be cut in such a way that the foam fits tightly between the sheathing. The cutting line must be smooth and vertical, so the use of a flexible blade is unacceptable.

It is worth noting that you do not need to use foam plastic fasteners when installing it, since it will be absorbed by the finishing material. But for reliability, you can use special silicate glue or polyurethane foam, which can also be used for sealing seams and cracks.

Advice: you need to buy material taking into account the sheathing and its location on the swing garage door leaf, otherwise there will be a lot of scraps. You can use polystyrene foam for insulation, then you don’t need additional waterproofing, and it’s easier to work with - it doesn’t crumble. The only drawback is the high cost.

Stone wool insulating gates

The process of insulating a garage door from the inside with stone wool is not difficult even for a beginner. This is a good insulation material, having an aluminum film on one side, which reflects 97% of heat. Mounted directly on the door leaf using mounting adhesive. On the garage side, the insulation must be protected with any facing material.

Application of expanded polystyrene

For garage doors, many people use insulation such as polystyrene foam, which has good insulating qualities. The installation method is the same as when installing foam plastic.

Insulation of gates with foam insulation

It is not possible to insulate garage doors with your own hands using liquid foam insulation - this will require special equipment and qualified builders. The material is sprayed in several layers by a spray machine. The lathing for this method is mounted as in the previous case; it will be needed to attach the finishing trim.

This method has a large number of advantages:

• does not change its properties over time;
• excellent adhesion;
• high thermal insulation properties;
• no cold bridges remain when applied;
• does not require installation of vapor barrier;
• service life 70 years.

Application of polyurethane foam

Once the layers of insulation are installed, you need to carefully seal the cracks. Optimal and simple option The garage doors will be insulated with polyurethane foam; all voids and cracks will be filled with it.

It is better to purchase professional material for the gun; this will help to significantly save material, since the gun helps to accurately distribute the foam in the right amount. Foam tends to expand, thereby filling all voids. As soon as the foam has dried, it is cut flush with the insulation.

How to cover the gaps between the base and the insulation? To do this, you can use Izolon, a self-adhesive material used as additional insulation and vapor barrier.

When insulating, the door leaf is often lined with penofol before installing the sheathing. This is an innovative, non-flammable, easy-to-use insulating material.

Insulation of gaps

When insulating the gate, gaps remain between the door leaf and the slopes, into which cold air penetrates from the street. For complete sealing, these cold bridges must be eliminated without fail. For this purpose, inserts and thresholds are used.

Vinyl inserts cope well with this problem. They are used to paste over the edges of the gate, having previously covered them with two layers of paint. For better adhesion, there are special notches on the inside of the inserts.

Before installing the inserts under the threshold, the space is first cleared of dust and dirt. The material is fixed using a special mounting adhesive.

Insulating a garage gate

Before insulating a garage door, the surface is prepared. It needs to be done in the same way as when insulating large swing gates. Waterproofing and vapor barrier are installed.

After this, the sheathing is mounted using pre-prepared bars. First of all, they are screwed around the perimeter of the gate. Then you need to cut out a block equal in size to the diagonal line of the gate and screw it with self-tapping screws. The sheathing is ready, it needs to be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting.

In the case of a gate, the insulation is cut in the shape of two triangles and inserted tightly into the sheathing. All cracks are foamed as described above.

Finishing the gate after insulation

As soon as the insulation of the sheets with your own hands is completed, the question arises - how to cover the garage doors. There are a lot of options, you can use:

• Railcar - which is an inexpensive environmentally friendly material. She has a presentable appearance, she tolerates temperature changes well, and is resistant to mechanical damage. Gates, swing gates, insulated, and finished with clapboard have an aesthetic appearance. It is mounted on wood screws to the gate frame.
• PVC panels are easy to maintain, installation is not difficult, and have a long service life. But there is a drawback: this material is susceptible to shock and mechanical damage. The panels are mounted on the sheathing using a construction stapler.

• moisture-resistant plywood is a material with excellent characteristics in terms of ecology and technical qualities, the only negative is its high cost.
• OSB panel - High-quality, inexpensive material for cladding work on garage doors, which even professionals recommend using.

The material is mounted on the sheathing using self-tapping screws. Before installation on garage doors or swing doors, you need to cut the sheets to size, trying to eliminate large quantities scraps. OSB has excellent characteristics, but it needs to be treated to increase its service life special compounds, or paint.

In conclusion

As you can see, the work of insulation is painstaking, but not complicated, and if you do it according to all the rules, then insulated garage doors will protect the room where the car is located from winter frosts.

It is worth considering one more important nuance - you should not use material such as mineral wool to insulate garage doors. The fact is that it absorbs moisture, which, when frozen, almost completely deprives the material of its thermal insulation abilities. This fact also applies to glass wool.

Do not forget that when cold and warm air a dew point appears - condensation, which, if the insulation is installed incorrectly, can reduce all work to zero. Now you know how to properly insulate a garage door and can do it yourself.

Source: //teplota.guru/teploizolyatsiya/nyuansy-utepleniya-garazhnyh-vorot.html

Insulating garage doors - choosing insulation and sequence of work

Insulating garage doors is a very important measure, without which this room in winter it will be extremely uncomfortable.

In a frozen garage, the parts of a car engine wear out more during startup, and it takes longer to warm it up (due to thickening of the oil), the service life of rubber elements is reduced, and if the basement is supposed to be used as a vegetable storage, then you simply cannot do without insulation. How exactly to do this and what material is best to use?

What types of garage doors need to be insulated?

First of all, you need to find out whether insulation can be installed on your garage door, and whether it is necessary at all. Reply to this question will depend on their design. The most widespread are 5 varieties.

Swing gates

The simplest option, which occurs most often. The gate consists of two leaves, suspended on hinges like regular doors.

Each leaf consists of a rigid, durable frame (profile pipe) and a steel sheet welded to it.

Through such gates, heat evaporates without being retained, so they must be insulated without fail.

Their design does not prevent this at all - you can install insulation of any type and thickness.

Sliding or sliding gates

This type of gate consists of a single leaf, which slides to the side along a guide. They usually have the same design as swing doors - a steel sheet on a frame.

They can and should also be insulated, but the thickness of the heat insulator is limited - it should not protrude beyond the frame.

Sectional

The leaf of this gate is composite: it is made up of several horizontal strips with a hinge connection. When opened, the canvas, bending at the hinges, moves up and inward along the guides and eventually takes a horizontal position under the ceiling.

For self-made the design of these gates is too complex - they are made in factories and insulated right at the production stage.

Sectional doors

Each strip is a so-called sandwich - a 3-layer structure consisting of steel sheathing and insulation located inside. But the user, if necessary, can perform additional insulation by attaching a heat insulator to the inside. Only it will have to be trimmed a little so that the sections do not rest against one another when closing.

Up and over gates

They open in the same way as sectional ones, only the sash is solid. Used in garages with sufficient ceiling height. Such systems also almost always have a factory design and a 3-layer insulated design. If desired, they can also be additionally insulated, but you need to take into account the location of the drive and guides.

Rolling gates

They are very similar to sectional ones, only there are many more sections (here they are called slats) and they are very narrow. This is the only type of garage door that cannot be additionally insulated - when opening, the door leaf is wound onto the drum and if there is even the thinnest heat insulator on it, the system will simply jam.

Roller type gate

Choice of insulation

The most important characteristics of thermal insulators are thermal conductivity and price: both should be as low as possible. This requirement is best met by two materials: mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

Mineral wool

Being an effective heat insulator, this material also has a number of positive qualities:

• is absolutely environmentally friendly (the fibers are a frozen melt of natural stone);
• does not rot and is not affected by rodents (biological stability);
• does not burn.

It should be noted, however, that all these advantages, except for biological stability, are not of particular value in a garage.

But the disadvantage of mineral wool - its hygroscopicity (actively absorbs water with loss of thermal insulation properties) - becomes especially noticeable here.

Foam plastic

In fact, this term can be used to describe any foamed polymer, but we will talk about the most common type in everyday life - expanded polystyrene.

This material is inferior in some ways to mineral wool:

• when exposed to heat, it can release volatile substances harmful to health;
• burns well and emits very toxic smoke;
• is a treat for mice.

Garage doors after insulation with foam plastic

But in the garage these shortcomings are not so significant. But the advantage of polystyrene foam - its absolute moisture resistance - in this case can be safely put at the forefront. Therefore, this material is more suitable for insulating a garage.

How to insulate garage doors from the inside?

At first glance, it may seem that it is enough to simply glue the foam to the inside of the gate. But with this method of insulation, the canvas will quickly be eaten away by rust: moisture will always be present in the gap between it and the insulation, condensing when warm garage air comes into contact with cold steel.

The owner will find out that the metal has rotted at the last moment, since the defects will be hidden for the time being by foam plastic. There is only one way to prevent such a nuisance: completely isolate the metal sheet from the internal space.

Internal thermal insulation

To do this, do the following:

1. A frame made of wooden blocks is tightly screwed to the frames of the shutters.
2. Foam boards are placed in the frame.
3. The frame and insulation are sheathed with some sheet material.

With this design, moist air will not be able to penetrate under the heat insulator, therefore, the gate will not “sweat”. And the foam will be reliably protected from mice.

Preparing the gate surface

Before starting work, the gate must be cleaned of dirt and thoroughly inspected. If rust or peeling paint is found, they must be cleaned off with a wire brush or drill with a special attachment. Next, the entire surface is treated with a degreaser and coated with an anti-corrosion primer.

For greater reliability, the canvas can be coated with a waterproofing compound (for example, bitumen mastic).

The sheathing should be assembled from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 40x40 mm. Here's what the process looks like:

1. All wooden elements are treated with two layers of antifungal impregnation. It is important to take into account that all such compositions are toxic, so they should be applied using personal protective equipment. Upon completion of processing, the bars are left alone until completely dry.
2. Now the bars need to be cut into parts the right size. You'll need pieces different lengths, because the frame must go around the locks and ventilation holes, if any.
3. In the frame of each sash along the entire perimeter, in increments of 200 - 250 mm, drill through holes with a diameter of 4 mm. If you plan to fasten the frame with self-tapping screws with a countersunk head, the holes will need to be drilled to a depth of 1 - 1.5 mm with a drill with a diameter of 8 mm.
4. Now each frame part needs to be installed in place, pressing it to the sash frame with a clamp.
5. Through the holes in the frame, we drill holes for fasteners in the bars using a 2-mm wood drill. Self-tapping screws must have a zinc coating and such a working length that they fit at least halfway into the bars. Having prepared the mounting holes, the bars are screwed to the frame.

Finished sheathing for insulation

In the same way, the intermediate vertical frame elements should be fixed in increments corresponding to the width of the foam boards (usually 500 mm).

Do-it-yourself insulation of garage doors: sequence of work

Now you can proceed directly to the installation of insulation. Since the frame will be sheathed in the future, the foam does not need to be attached. For convenience, it can be secured with “liquid nails” glue or polyurethane foam. Foam is also used to fill cracks if they remain here and there.

If the foam board is several millimeters wider than the gap between the frame elements, you should not squeeze it in with force. Being compressed, this material will partially lose its thermal insulation properties.

Ready-made insulation option with cladding

Inner surface lining

The frame can be covered with any sheet material. Use plastic, chipboard panels (OSB), fiberboard or plywood. Since garage doors have to be opened not only in dry weather, but also in slush, moisture-resistant materials are most preferable for cladding - plastic, OSB-3 or OSB-4.

The sheet material must be either solid or cut in such a way that the joints between the individual fragments fall on the bars. Don't forget to make cutouts for the lock and ventilation holes. When screwing the sheets, self-tapping screws are screwed in increments of 120 - 150 mm on the frame frame installed around the perimeter, and 200 mm on the intermediate elements.

Additional insulation measures

What other measures will help reduce heat loss? Here are some effective techniques:

1. Garage curtain: This option is good if the sash still has to be opened for one reason or another. The curtain can be made of tarpaulin or any other sufficiently dense and durable material. It is hung as usual - on a metal string using rings with hooks or hooks.
2. Insulation of gate leaves: a fair amount of heat is also lost through the gaps between the gate leaves and the frame of the opening. They can be closed by attaching a vinyl or rubber strip around the perimeter of the doors.

The presence of a wicket in the gate leaf helps to retain heat.

on the topic

Source: //microklimat.pro/uteplenie/garazha/vorot.html

Insulation of the garage from the inside, gates, shelves, ceilings, do it yourself

Storing a personal car in an outdoor garage requires additional measures to insulate the building, since changes in humidity and temperature will lead not only to corrosion of the body of your iron pet, but also to the destruction of the garage itself. The main flow of cold air always comes from the garage door, so insulating the garage door is a priority task that does not require delay.

Garage doors insulated with foam plastic

Solutions for insulating garages from different building materials

If the garage is made as a permanent building made of brick or concrete, then it often has autonomous heating installed in the form of a potbelly stove or liquid fuel boiler, but these measures for heating the room will be ineffective without additional thermal insulation of the garage and its gates, as well as windows, if any. Insulation measures are carried out for all surfaces of the object without exception - these are walls, ceilings, and floors. inspection hole(if there is one, and a basement), and do-it-yourself insulation of garage doors. A metal garage of the “shell” type needs to be insulated even more so.

Every car enthusiast knows that starting an engine at a temperature of -20°C and below is equivalent to driving 600 km, so the question is whether to insulate metal garage(as well as concrete, wood or brick) is not worth it in principle.

Only preserving the heat generated by the heating boiler will help preserve your car and garage. There are not so many options for insulation: these are internal, work, external insulation of the garage roof and other surfaces, and a combination of these options.

Graph of temperature fluctuations during external insulation of a garage

Since the facade of any garage is mostly gate doors, facade insulation will save the car from moisture and frost. Facade insulation of garage doors with foam plastic is suitable for wooden (frame-based), metal and permanent garages, as it shifts the dew point to the outer surface of the walls or ceiling.

If for financial or other reasons it is chosen internal insulation ceiling in the garage and its other surfaces, then you need to remember that for a metal structure this is not enough - it is advisable to insulate the iron garage from the outside in order to move the dew point beyond the boundaries of the thermal barriers, which, in turn, will not allow condensation to form inside the walls.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdCG7eJzsf8

A garage made of concrete or brick also ideally requires external insulation, but a good effect can be achieved if the garage is insulated from the inside with polystyrene foam. Polystyrene foam as a heat insulator is an excellent material, and its only drawback is flammability, which should be taken into account when using an insulating layer made of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam.

Internal insulation of garage with foam plastic

A detached garage is an object in which heat leakage can occur on any surface, and the roof is no exception, so insulation of the garage roof should be considered in conjunction with other measures for laying thermal insulation. Which roof insulation option to choose depends on the design of the roof itself:

1. A pitched, flat, or roof with a small slope angle can be insulated by laying thermal insulation materials on the outside, and sheets of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene are best suited for this purpose. To protect against moisture, the garage roof insulation is covered with roofing felt or other rolled waterproofing materials;
2. It is recommended to insulate a gable roof with mineral wool, polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene; the material is fixed in the space between the rafters and is advantageous in that the exact dimensions of the insulation do not need to be observed during installation, and the cracks and joints can be filled with the same insulation or polyurethane foam;
3. If the garage is built with an attic, then the easiest way to insulate the ceiling of the attic space is with rolled glass wool and cover it with roofing felt.

In addition to insulating the attic ceiling, you can also insulate the garage ceiling, that is, you will get a ceiling that is insulated on all sides. When insulating with mineral wool, it creates wooden frame, foam or polystyrene slabs can be mounted on umbrella dowels.

An almost continuous layer of insulation means there are no “cold bridges” or cracks for the penetration of cold air flows. To secure this result, the ceiling is additionally protected from the inside with a vapor barrier (membrane film) and a layer of waterproofing.

Protecting the garage ceiling with a layer of vapor barrier

Before purchasing thermal insulation, you should decide on the insulation technology in order to choose the insulation correctly. Thus, it is advisable to insulate an iron garage by spraying polyurethane foam, but you can create a warm “pie” from polystyrene foam slabs.

A garage with walls made of cellular concrete will be warm enough if you plaster them with perlite plaster.

There are also cheaper and easier to implement insulation methods, and the leader in this list is foam insulation from the inside in 2 rows in a checkerboard pattern to protect the joints.

1. Let’s say you are insulating a garage from the inside with your own hands, an area of ​​30 m2 of walls, using foam plastic 100 mm thick;
2. Since the recommended technology is two layers, we take foam plastic 50 mm thick with a total area of ​​60 m2. It is necessary to ensure a supply of material (waste, trimming), so we add 10% and get 66 m2;
3. The fewer insulation joints there are, the better, so we choose the largest PSB-S slabs measuring 1000 x 1000 mm in the amount of 66 units;
4. EPS boards are produced in a smaller area - 1200 x 600 mm, so foam insulation from the inside will require 120 sheets. If measured by packages, then, given that there are eight sheets in one package, you get 15 packages of EPS.

The foam is attached to the surface with glue construction foam for sealing joints.

The glue is sold in the form of a dry mixture, which must be mixed with water to the desired consistency, containers - 25 kg bags, dry mass consumption - up to 4 kg/m2. For our example, we will need 240 kg or 10 bags of adhesive mixture.

Polyurethane foam, based on the practice of its use, is consumed per 10 m2 - 1 cylinder. The foam is applied using a special mounting gun.

How to apply polyurethane foam correctly

Tools

Any insulation of a garage requires at least a minimum set of tools; their use depends on the insulation and the material of the insulated surfaces. If mineral wool can be easily cut with a construction cutter, then it is better to cut foam plastic with a steel wire so that it does not crumble.

To prepare the surfaces you will need:

1. Synthetic or metal brush;
2. Sander;
3. Spatula.

To secure the garage insulation from the inside with your own hands:

1. Screwdriver or electric drill;
2. Construction stapler and staples measuring 14-16 mm;
3. Foam gun, foam, glue and notched trowel for applying it.

Tools and materials for garage insulation

Insulation process

1. If the floor insulation is being done in a garage: first, a pit 50 cm deep is dug, roofing material is spread to the bottom, the joints of the rolls are covered with bitumen;
2. A layer of expanded clay 30 cm thick is poured, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top;
3. A concrete solution is poured to the edge of the pit.

Subsequent floor insulation is carried out using wooden joists:

1. A layer of insulating materials is laid between the joists - it is advisable to use a material with low water absorption. This may be low-density foam;
2. A one-sided membrane film is laid on the foam, which will provide air access to the wood so that it does not rot. The film should not reach 100–150 mm to the edges of the beams;
3. A wooden frame made of 5-centimeter slats is attached to the logs, which is needed to allow air to enter the space between the insulation and the logs;
4. A subfloor made of edged boards 30-40 mm thick is laid on the frame.

Insulating the floor in the garage

Any surfaces to be insulated are first cleaned of old coatings, dirt, grease and dust. Then the surfaces are leveled, the cracks are sealed according to the material, the surface is primed with deep penetration compounds. The insulation process is carried out in the following order:

1. A steel corner 40 x 40 mm or 50 x 50 mm is attached along the lower edge of the walls, which will serve as a guide for attaching the foam;
2. The dry adhesive mixture is mixed with water and applied to the foam boards with a brush, spatula or roller. Adhesive layer – up to 4 mm;
3. If the glue is purchased in cans, then it should be applied in small spots at the same distance from each other;
4. When gluing EPS boards, they should be laid from bottom to top with emphasis on the metal corner;
5. All upper rows of EPS are laid in a checkerboard pattern;
6. The seams between the plates must be filled with polyurethane foam or puttied with glue;
7. After 24-36 hours, the slabs are additionally strengthened with umbrella plastic dowels - 5 pieces per sheet;
8. The reinforcing mesh is not placed between the layers of polystyrene foam; it needs to be attached only to top layer Eps boards, glued;
9. After the last layer of glue under the reinforced mesh has hardened, you can proceed to the decorative finishing of the surfaces.

Thermal insulation of the garage inside and out

Such insulation of the garage from the outside and inside creates a barrier to cold air flows from the street or from the inspection hole (basement). To reduce the presence of moisture in the air, a forced and natural ventilation system is installed, and all wooden elements of the garage and internal structures must be protected by impregnation with antiseptic substances.

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Insulating garage doors in simple and affordable ways

Most car owners who are lucky enough to have acquired a cherished home for their four-wheeled friend quickly begin to understand that without decent insulation it is just a canopy protecting the car from the rain. Plus, a garage is not only a home for a car, for our man it is a workshop, a banquet hall and a club of interests all rolled into one. Insulating the garage door is the first and perhaps the most important thing that should be done to achieve comfort. Today we will talk about how to insulate a garage door with your own hands using affordable methods.

If you turn to regulatory documents, in this case it is SNiP 21.02-99, in order for the car body not to rust and the engine to start without warming up, a constant temperature of 5ºC is sufficient. Therefore, insulating garage doors does not require excessive effort and fancy materials.

What kind of gates are there?

It is no secret that it is better to take into account any nuances at the stage of building the premises. But most owners, when building or choosing a garage, are primarily interested in the reliability of the locks, leaving insulation for later. This is not entirely true.

For security, there are alarms and other similar systems. And, in the end, everyone knows that if they want to steal, they will steal. But having become acquainted with modern designs With a gate, you can solve the insulation problem before it even arises. Moreover, as a rule, there is no need to radically increase the budget.

Lift-and-swivel models

In our country, this design appeared in the nineties and immediately gained popularity. The entrance opening here is closed by one solid leaf, which, using a mechanical drive, rises and gently slides into a horizontal plane parallel to the ceiling, that is, changes its position by 90º.

This model is available as industrially, and by many home craftsmen. Factory insulated overhead gates are a one-piece sandwich panel made of sheet steel and filled with polyurethane foam. The thickness of such a sash usually fluctuates around 45 mm, which is quite sufficient even for the harsh conditions of the north.

A garage is a real home for a car, protecting the car from negative impact rain, snow, moisture and dirt. Here you can repair your car, store spare parts, tools or things you don’t need in your apartment. In order not to depend on weather conditions and the time of year, many owners strive to insulate the garage doors, because they main reason heat loss Recommendations and tips for insulating garage doors with your own hands can be found below.

Of course, there are many reasons to insulate the gate; we will list only the most obvious:

Insulating garage doors solves a number of reasons for both summer and winter. The photo shows polyurethane foam insulation.

• In summer, the metal sheets of the gate, heating up in the sun, heat the air in the garage so much that it becomes impossible to stay there. And in winter, frost penetrates inside through cracks, lowering the temperature to street temperature. Repairing in such conditions is simply harmful to health.
• If heaters are used in cold weather, then insulation of the garage door is necessary to maintain the temperature and conserve heat and electricity.
• In a properly insulated garage there will be lower humidity and less condensation, which leads to corrosion of the car body. The microclimate of the room becomes softer and devoid of temperature changes.

Is it possible to insulate my type of gate?

You can do the insulation of metal garage doors yourself

If you have swinging steel gates, as in most garages, then they can and should be insulated. After all, the material of the sheets and frame is ordinary steel, which reacts to any temperature fluctuations. You can do the work of insulating the gate from the inside with your own hands.

Proper insulation is the key to success

Important! Insulation is a material that has low thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity of a substance is expressed by the thermal conductivity coefficient. The lower the coefficient, the better the insulation performs its function. As the thickness of the material increases, its efficiency increases. However, for garage doors even five centimeters of thickness is enough .

There is a wide range of insulation products for garage doors on the market. How to understand all this diversity? It is best to thoroughly understand the main types, because not everyone is suitable for your case.

• Foams are synthetic foam materials based on polymers.

Foam plastic is an easy-to-use material

Polystyrene foam is perhaps the most known species, looks like connected white balls. Excellent for insulating gates due to its lightness, minimal hygroscopicity, strength and fire resistance. Sometimes called expanded polystyrene.

Urea-formaldehyde foam is also often used in heat and sound insulation. It has the property of not swelling when hardened. Also suitable as insulation for garage doors.

Sprayed polyurethane foam is an effective thermal insulator for gates

Polyurethane foam is divided into two types. The first is ordinary foam rubber, and the second is polyurethane foam. Used in thermal insulation last option. The foam has excellent thermal conductivity properties and even serves as a waterproofing agent. Sprayed onto the surface, filling cavities. An excellent material, however, the cost of application may be a reason not to choose this material.

• Mineral wool - a material used in construction, has three subtypes: glass wool, slag wool and stone wool. The use of mineral wool is limited due to its hygroscopicity.

Glass wool consists of tiny glass particles and has low thermal conductivity: 0.03 - 0.05 W/m*K. Caution should be used when working with this material.

Slag wool is produced from metallurgical residues (slag). The thermal insulation of the material is slightly worse - 0.04-0.05 W/m*K, which does not reduce its popularity in construction, but it will not work for sheathing garage doors - the material does not “get along” well with steel.

Stone wool is made from rocks. Thermal conductivity - 0.03−0.04 W/m*K. It is also not suitable for insulating garage doors, since when heated the material releases toxic substances.

First stage: preparing the surface and creating the sheathing

1. Even before starting work, it is worth working on the garage ventilation system. There must be supply and exhaust openings. If the air supply is already in the gate, it is important not to cover it with a layer of insulation.

1. It is important to treat the surface of the gate by removing any corrosion with a brush or grinder. The insulation can be hampered by, for example, peeling paint. After stripping and peeling off the paint, it is necessary to treat the metal with an anticorrosive agent. It will turn out better if you apply a layer of primer from a spray bottle.

1. The next stage is the process of making the sheathing. It helps to attach the insulation, and the outer, front layer of the cladding will hold on to it. It is optimal to use 4*4 cm bars for lathing, approximately this size. The lathing is attached to the gate frame. The wood must be dry and of high quality. The bars are treated with an antiseptic to prevent rot and moisture; it is advisable to do this twice. To secure the beams in the frame, a hole is drilled for a self-tapping screw. It is important to make recesses in the sheathing for the holes in the gates. The bars can also be fastened together if there is no rigid frame.

Second stage: insulation using various materials

Foam insulation

• When using PSB foam, you must also use waterproofing methods. Or you can sheathe it with EPS, which does not absorb moisture. Such panels are more expensive, but do not require insulation. To attach the foam to the surface of the gate you need:

• It is necessary to cut sheets of foam plastic, measuring 2-3 mm larger than the size of the lathing cells, this is done for a tighter fit of the insulation. Ideally, the number of joints between sheets should be minimal.
• The insulation can be attached using polyurethane foam; it is better if it does not increase much in volume when it dries. Foam is applied to the back side of the foam along the edges and in the middle and the sheet is pressed as tightly as possible against the gate. Within half an hour, a more precise adjustment of the insulation is performed.
• When the sheets are attached to the gate, all that remains is to fill the joints with foam. After the polyurethane foam has dried, you need to get rid of the protruding excess, which can be easily done with a regular knife.

Insulation with mineral wool

The use of mineral wool when insulating garage doors is quite acceptable. But in comparison with the technology of fastening polystyrene foam, mineral wool is more demanding in terms of surface preparation. Thus, due to the hygroscopicity of the material, it is necessary to treat steel surfaces with bitumen mastic or isolon.

After waterproofing the sashes, you can begin cutting the mineral wool into pieces of the required size. You should achieve the tightest possible fit of the insulation fragments to the sheathing and to each other, since mineral wool has a tendency to caking. Next, it is attached on top of the insulation vapor barrier film so that the inside is not exposed to moisture.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

Insulating garage doors with polyurethane foam is the fastest way

In this case, you should also take care of the lathing, as it will be needed for cladding the gate. To apply polyurethane foam, a special spraying technique is used, so you need to find a company that provides application services. Before covering with this type of insulation, you need to seal those holes and parts of the gate into which foam is undesirable. During the application process itself, it is necessary to use protection of the mucous membranes from harmful vapors of polyurethane foam in its wet state. When the insulation has completely hardened, it will become harmless to humans. Some advantages of using polyurethane foam:

• Thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.019–0.035 W/m*K. This is an order of magnitude better than mineral wool or polystyrene foam.
• Excellent cavity filling.
• Durability - service life of about 60 years.

Third stage: finishing cladding

When the insulation work is completed, there is a reasonable desire to make high-quality cladding. Since between the sheets of insulation there is wooden sheathing, this will not be difficult to do. How to cover garage doors? There are several widely used options:

• Corrugated sheet
• Plastic panels
• Lining
• OSB sheets

Advice. The cladding can be secured using either a construction stapler or self-tapping screws.

Sealing the sashes is the finishing touch in the insulation process

Often, measures taken to lay insulation are not enough to preserve heat - heated air is blown out through the cracks in the sashes. This problem can be easily solved by using a garage door seal. A hollow rubber strip with round, resembling a hose. It is attached to a special tail, which is fixed using a strip of metal and self-tapping screws.

Advice. The bottom of the sashes cannot be insulated with a sealant, but heat loss can be reduced by using a brush profile. It is also mounted with self-tapping screws.

Video: a budget way to insulate garage doors

Conclusion

Insulating a garage door is a difficult but necessary process, because being in the room should be comfortable for both the person and his car. The most optimal method of insulation today is polyurethane foam insulation. This is the most effective material in terms of its characteristics. At the same time, it is much more convenient to improve the microclimate in the garage with your own hands using polystyrene foam. What exactly to use and whether to cladding is decided only by the owner. We hope that this article was useful to you.

It’s not enough just to be the owner of a garage; it’s also important to be able to properly arrange the space - to rationally use the space and ensure comfort.

The central and defining element in the garage is the gate - the largest element of the building by area, through which the main heat transfer to the outside occurs - with them we will begin the work on thermal insulation.

It is a truism that the issue gains relevance as winter approaches, because the time has come to create conditions for the safety of the “iron horse”, equipment, tools, country supplies and preparations.

Temperature changes, high humidity, and the formation of condensation lead to a lot of troubles. First of all, it leads to the appearance of rust on the metal body of the car.

Even an anti-corrosion coating will not protect the car from dampness and cold, and the consequences will be very disastrous.

As a bonus - deterioration interior decoration garage, rotting electrical wiring, which risks causing a fire, mold, bad smell, the bleak prospect of getting sick.

Some nuances

There are some features depending on the types of gate construction. For example, it makes sense to insulate swing gates. Their frame consists of profile pipes, and externally they are sheathed in steel sheet. Since this material has high thermal conductivity, such gates are not very effective for heat conservation.

Sectional and overhead doors do not require additional thermal insulation. The body in such models also consists of sheets of steel, thoughtfully insulated inside with polyurethane.

It will be extremely useful to have a wicket in the gate, which will reduce heat loss during frequent use.

But you won’t be able to insulate roller shutter gates even if you want to. Their design allows for the web to be wound onto a drum - even with the finest insulation the system may fail.

Choosing an insulating material

The main thing in the work on thermal insulation of gates is the insulation material. It is necessary to pay attention to the quality and properties of the insulation. Here we will have to remember physics - the body’s ability to conduct heat, that is, thermal conductivity. The given value is characterized by the coefficient of thermal conductivity.

The lower the coefficient, the greater the likelihood that the material will suit you.

Let's move on to the list of the most common options and their disadvantages:

• Mineral wool (glass wool, stone wool) is fireproof, but not moisture resistant. Once you get it wet, you can forget about its thermal insulation qualities.
• Polystyrene foam is lightweight, durable, has low thermal conductivity, but is not fire resistant enough. Ideal for insulating gates with your own hands.
• Expanded polystyrene (PSB, PSB-S) is a type of foam plastic, one of the few materials that are fire-resistant and self-extinguishing, because impregnated with fire retardant.
• Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is fire-resistant, durable, with very low hygroscopicity.
• Polyurethane foam (foam rubber, rigid polyurethane foam) is an insulation material that gradually expands in volume. It is applied by spraying using special equipment. Polyurethane foam has high thermal insulation properties, good adhesion, and excellent sound and waterproofing properties.
• Penoizol (urea-formaldehyde foam) – liquid foam, which turns into foam when applied. Does not burn or smolder. It is resistant to moisture, which provides high thermal insulation and is not susceptible to attacks by microorganisms and rodents.

Please note that the choice of insulation also depends on the size and material of the gate surface.

Small fibers of glass wool are dangerous to humans, so do not neglect protective equipment when working.

Basic methods

The procedure for working with a specific insulation is individual. However, in most cases (except for the use of special equipment), insulation can be done independently.

Main thermal insulation options:

1. Gate frame and gates.
   They start by inspecting the frame and leaves of the garage door. Rust is cleaned off with an iron brush. Then it is necessary to cover or weld all the cracks and cracks, which will eliminate heat loss and drafts. It is recommended to prime the surface of the gate and treat it with an anti-corrosion or antiseptic agent. Special polymer inserts can be fixed to the floor.
2. For one or more targets.
   Most often, foam boards are used for such insulation. The material of the second sash should be the same as for the first - with the same characteristics and thickness.

The insulation must be installed close to the gate, leaving absolutely no air gap to prevent condensation from accumulating.

Polystyrene foam is laid in two ways:

• On a metal structure thanks to special glue.
• Between the sheathing using a frame. You can build a sheathing using metal profiles, slats, or timber.

Gates and wickets are usually sheathed with corrugated sheets or lumber: OSB, MDF, wooden clapboard, plywood. The optimal solutions are OSB and lining - strong, durable materials that are not afraid of rotting.

Wooden lining must be treated with fire retardants and antiseptics.

Profile iron sheet is also sufficient practical solution, however, condensation may accumulate on it.

Work order

Insulating garage doors includes the following steps:

1. Removing stains and dirt.
   Detection of defects and damage on the door leaf. Removing rust and filling cracks. Produced with a brush or sander.
2. Padding.
   Application of anti-corrosion agents.
3. Installation of sheathing.
   Traditionally used for the frame wooden beam or metal profile. Mounted on dowels. The sheathing is fixed to the canvas frame - on profile pipe or in the corner.
4. Placing insulation between the slats.
   Foam boards are attached with glue. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant or foam.
5. Gate trim.
6. Completion.
   The casing is opened with varnish, the metal material is painted.

Additionally, the gaps are insulated with vinyl inserts. They are glued to the pre-painted edges of the gate. The bottom and threshold of the gate are also insulated. For these purposes, fabric and rubber strips and brush profiles are used. The latter are fixed in increments of 15-20 cm with self-tapping screws on the bottom of the gate.

How to insulate swing gates

Insulation depends directly on the design of the gate. So, swing gates are waterproofed to avoid corrosion due to condensation accumulation. Self-adhesive insulation is often used as thermal insulation.

The degree of insulation depends on its thickness. To compact more, you can add sheets of expanded polystyrene and fix them with polyurethane foam. Foamed polystyrene foam requires external cladding of the gate. The extruded one is quite durable, so you can simply cover the seams with foil.

In addition, there are the following methods for enhancing thermal insulation, suitable for different garage structures:

• creating a garage curtain located behind the gate. The material should be chosen dense, durable, fire and moisture resistant. PVC fabric and tarpaulin impregnated with water-repellent spray are most suitable.
• surface treatment in modern ways insulation: heat-insulating paint or “warm” plaster.
• reducing the opening area by installing a small gate in it.

Bottom line

As you can see, insulating a garage door with your own hands is not a quick process, but absolutely anyone can do it if you follow all the instructions correctly.

This publication presents step by step order thermal insulation, the reasons for insulating garage doors are substantiated, information about insulating materials is structured (all kinds of foam plastic are in the lead).

Using our " short course"You can absolutely apply this when independent work. We guarantee the integrity and safety of the “iron friend” and autumn preparations!