Hydrangea paniculate sunday. Hydrangea paniculata Sunday fries. Application in landscape design

Hydrangea paniculata is one of the four most popular species cultivated in Russia. Hydrangea paniculata got its name from the shape of the flower. It is a motley "panicle" at the very end of the branch, which is wrapped in large leaves of various shapes. Hydrangea Care Guide room conditions.

Panicled hydrangea flowers - flat shape, and across are about 15 centimeters. The length of one panicle is 35 centimeters, in diameter it is 20 centimeters.

Foliage paniculate hydrangea It happens:

  • Velvety;
  • Serrated;
  • Serrated;
  • Broadly ovoid;
  • Chereshkova;

In saturation and brightness of color, the foliage is located from top to bottom, from the brightest to the palest at the foot. The maximum length of a hydrangea leaf is 12 centimeters.

The difference between panicle hydrangea and tree hydrangea

The two leading species garden hydrangeas- These are tree-like and paniculate hydrangeas. Both plants have a mass positive qualities but they also have disadvantages:

  1. The tree hydrangea is a typical shrub, unlike the paniculate counterpart, which is more like a small tree in shape, often a multi-stemmed and less often single-stemmed plant.
  2. Paniculata hydrangea tolerates well low temperatures. Young shoots of panicled hydrangea gain strength by autumn and are completely covered with "bark", for this reason, even they are not afraid of Russian frost. What can not be said about the tree hydrangea. In winter, all young shoots freeze, because they do not have time to get stronger. And the next year, fresh shoots are released again and bloom in the same color. If you cover this species under the snow, then next year the bush will fill with strength and again continue its path to the sun's rays.

Both species have a wide colors, anyone can choose the plant that he likes. And it will be a great addition to the natural ensemble in the garden.

Hydrangea paniculata, varieties with photos

The most comfortable varieties of panicle hydrangea for the Moscow region can be considered:

  • hydrangea panicled vanilla fraze - frost-resistant, large. At the end of flowering, the flowers turn crimson, and by the end of autumn they are completely painted in purple;
  • hydrangea paniculata grandiflora
  • hydrangea paniculata pinky winky - a variety suitable for a single planting, prone to “attack” by ticks
  • hydrangea paniculata limelight - characterized by a dense sterile inflorescence. Frost-resistant, "loves" acidic soil;
  • hydrangea paniculata bobo - the best place partial shade for growth. The soil needs to be drained. The best option for a terrace or a border;
  • Hydrangea paniculata mega mindi is unique in that the dried inflorescences can remain on the stem all winter. The flowers on the "panicle" are quite large, loves the light;
  • hydrangea panicled tardiva - a variety that has an incredible height (under 2 meters). Wind protection required. Often used by florists to make a winter bouquet.
  • hydrangea paniculata silver dollar - it is recommended to plant in group ensembles in places of rest;
  • Hydrangea paniculata Sunday Frize is characterized as very compact, dense and uniform. Its height reaches a meter.
  • hydrangea panicled kyushu - loves partial shade, frost-resistant, cannot be cut during the period of sap flow;
  • Beautiful decoration of the site - hydrangea paniculata kyushu

  • panicled hydrangea mega pearl - perfect for a single landing, but it will also take its place in a group;
  • hydrangea paniculate polar bear - snow-white flowers, frost-resistant, large and abundant inflorescences;
  • hydrangea paniculata bombshell - this species is a small shrub that is abundantly strewn with snow-white flowers.
  • There are a huge number of varieties of panicled hydrangea, some of them are distinguished by their love of moisture and the sun:


    Kirill Sysoev

    Calloused hands do not know boredom!

    Content

    This flowering shrub can often be seen in gardens. country houses and neither summer cottages. The main features that distinguish paniculate hydrangea from other flowers are frost resistance, a wealth of species and varieties, unpretentious care, frost resistance and abundant flowering. If you do not have time for long and frequent work in the garden, but have a desire to decorate it, planting a bush will be the best solution.

    What is hydrangea paniculata

    Hydrangea paniculata is one of the most large species bushes developing in the form of strong, dense branches. There are also multi-stem trees among hydrangeas, reaching a height of 10 m, but most varieties stop growing when they reach 1.5-3 meters. Paniculata hydrangea has a rounded crown shape, develops rapidly (annual growth is 25-30 cm). The leaves of the flower reach a length of 12 cm, covered with a weak edge on the upper part and a strong underside along the veins. The shape of the leaves is ovoid or oval.

    The main decoration is not foliage, but thick, wide pyramids of panicles, reaching 25 cm in length. Inflorescences have two types of flowers: small fruit-bearing, inconspicuous and beautiful large sterile. At different types their ratio, as well as the density of arrangement, are very different, due to which the structure of the panicles is very diverse.

    Paniculata and tree hydrangea - differences

    The two most popular garden varieties- it is paniculate and tree-like. Both plants have a lot of positive qualities, but they also have disadvantages:

    1. Tree-like - is a typical shrub, in contrast to the paniculate flower, which is more like a multi-stemmed or single-stemmed tree in shape.
    2. Panicled - is considered winter-hardy, because it tolerates low temperatures well. Young shoots gain strength by autumn and are completely overgrown with bark, thanks to which even the harsh Russian climate is not afraid of them. The tree-like variety does not have such an ability, therefore, in winter, young shoots freeze, not having time to get stronger. The next warm season, the flower again releases fresh shoots.

    The best varieties

    Inflorescences are able to gradually change their color, while most varieties of shrubs have a very pleasant smell, which is felt during group landings shrub. Without exception, all representatives of this type of flowers are honey plants. Below are the best varieties of panicled hydrangea, which will not leave any gardener indifferent.

    Grandiflora

    The flowers are collected in large beautiful inflorescences-panicles of a pyramidal shape. They are creamy white during flowering, becoming snow white at their peak, and turning pinkish by the end of the summer season. In autumn, the grandiflora is greenish-red. It actively grows in urban conditions, prefers partial shade, but only when providing abundant watering, since it is a moisture-loving plant. Young seedlings are recommended to cover trunk circle for the winter. Average Height grandiflora - 2 meters.

    unpretentiousness in care and lush bloom made this variety very popular. Fraise Melba is distinguished by a spreading crown, an unusual pointed shape of leaves, and vertical shoots. Compared to other species, this one grows slowly, but with proper care can reach 2 meters in height. Spectacularly at Fraise Melba, the tones of the inflorescences look spectacular: at first they are milky, then they change color to pale pink, and by the end of flowering they become wine red.

    Often on one bush there are three different shades at once. The branches have a dense structure, so they do not need a garter. In order for the inflorescences to develop large, a short pruning is carried out every spring. Fraise Melba does not require winter shelters and loves lime, which is applied to the soil when planting in small quantities. Seedlings require abundant watering.

    Differs in compactness and density of branches. The shoots are red-brown in color, the leaves are lowered, especially along the veins. The flowers of the Sunday Frize are white at first, and turn pink-lilac in late summer. Sunday Frize blooms with large pyramidal-shaped inflorescences up to 30 cm in diameter, resembling a glass of ice cream in shape, for which gardeners called such panicled hydrangea "strawberry ice cream". This species is resistant to diseases, pests, in addition, it is frost-resistant. Sunday Frize prefers fertile soil and partial shade.

    Weems Red

    This type of inflorescence is conical in shape, the length of which reaches 35 cm, and has a pleasant honey aroma. From the beginning of flowering until frost, they gradually change color: from white to pink, and then deep red. Weems Red loves bright light, but can also thrive in partial shade. It does not need shelter for the winter, feels more comfortable in acidic soils and, growing on them, has a more saturated color.

    A low view, similar to Lime Light hydrangea with its inflorescences, which have green tint, and by the end of the process become pinkish. These two species are strikingly different only in size. It winters well without shelter (young weak shoots, however, should be wrapped up), loves moisture, drained and fertile soil.

    The most beautiful varieties of paniculate hydrangea must include this species flower. Pink Diamond grows on a high straight shoot, the leaves of the variety are rough light green, and the inflorescences are large. At first, the buds are white in color, after they turn pink, and by the autumn season they become crimson. Needs heavy pruning in spring. Pink Diamond tolerates winter well, but in young age it is better to provide shelter for the cold season.

    The shrub is distinguished by its tall stature (reaches 2.5 meters), a rounded crown and pyramidal paniculate inflorescences, the length of which is about 20-25 cm. Kyushu is often grown in city parks and on household plots. The flowers are white in color and exude a very pleasant aroma. Distinctive feature of this variety is the arrangement of glossy rich green leaves on red cuttings, which turn yellow in autumn. Kyushu grows rapidly, is demanding on soil moisture, and is attractive to insects.

    Magical Candle

    This spreading shrub has jagged, elongated leaves and large pyramidal inflorescences with a pleasant aroma. It blooms creamy white. After the inflorescence, they acquire a creamy hue (sometimes giving off a greenish color). Gradually, the flowers acquire a pinkish color, and in September they become crimson. Magical Candle loves partial shade and acidic soil, tolerates pruning and frost well.

    Bobo

    Differs in beauty and simplicity of leaving. Its flowering begins in July and ends in autumn. During this time, the buds change their color from yellowish to pale pink. Bobo inflorescences are cone-shaped. Due to its low growth, the bush is suitable for growing in containers that can be kept on a summer terrace or balcony. It is desirable that this be a semi-shaded place, since in the bright sun the inflorescences become smaller, and it is important to protect Bobo from gusty winds.

    Landing

    Not even experienced gardeners can easily grow this beautiful flower on their site, since caring for it does not require any special skills. It grows rapidly, inflorescences are formed on the shoots even in the year of planting. Gardeners recommend choosing areas with good and bright lighting, but some varieties prefer partial shade. When planting, you need to take into account that if the flower grows in direct sun, the buds lose their ability to change their color, they can turn pale and fade.

    The soil

    To ensure abundant flowering when growing hydrangeas, planting should be carried out on fertile, red earth, loamy soil. The plant does not like sandy, alkaline soils and does not grow well in neutral ones. In this case, the color of leaves and buds may turn pale, the shrub will be weak. Hydrangea paniculata grows better on acidic soil, then the color of the flowers turns out to be bright, and a lot of panicles form. If the soil in your area is not acidic enough, you can add sawdust, brown peat or coniferous soil to it. Ash or lime is not applied to this crop.

    When to plant

    Paniculata hydrangea is best planted in spring (in its first half) or in September, if this happens in open ground. The first option is preferable, since in this case the probability of active growth and development of a healthy plant is higher. You can buy suitable seedlings at flower shows, fairs, specialized garden shops, and nurseries. When planting in the fall, there is a risk that a cold snap will not allow the flower to take root in a new place for it.

    Planting time determines which year it will bloom. So, subject to a warm climate, the flower is planted in early spring(in March), then the paniculate hydrangea will throw out buds already in the year of planting. In the northern regions, it is better to root the shrub when the soil has already warmed up a little (in April), so that it takes root well. You can plant in the fall, but then the flower should be insulated for the coming winter. In the latter case, the bush will bloom the next year.

    How to plant

    On permanent place young shoots are planted at 4-5 years. The roots grow in breadth, going far beyond the crown, so the place must be prepared based on this. How to plant panicle hydrangea? Experienced gardeners advise:

    • form pits for a flower measuring 50 by 50 cm, in the presence of strongly developed roots, the depth of the hole can reach 80 cm;
    • the gaps between plants (if you plant several bushes at once) should be 2-2.5 m;
    • the planting pit is watered abundantly (up to 3 buckets of water are poured inside) and left overnight so that the moisture has time to soak into the soil;
    • in the morning, the pit must be filled with a substrate of peat, fertile soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 1;
    • a mixture of organic and mineral fertilizers should also be added here (for example, 25 g of potassium sulfate and urea together with 65 g of superphosphate);
    • before planting, the roots and the length of annual shoots are shortened, leaving only 3-5 pairs of buds;
    • after the preparation, the seedling should be placed in a pit, crushed with soil, covered with a compost layer and peat.

    Care

    Ornamental shrub with spreading stems, straight shoots and opposite leaves that form a stem-shaped crown. Metallic hydrangea is unpretentious, therefore it can grow even in harsh conditions. climatic conditions, gassed areas near highways. However, to get a healthy plant with large flowering pyramids, you need to provide him with the right care. If you properly care for the flower, the buds will last from June to mid-autumn.

    Watering

    All types of hydrangeas are very fond of moisture, so the soil around it should always be moist. Hydrangea paniculata should be watered frequently in the summer (daily or every other day), since the soil should never be allowed to dry out. The rest of the time, watering should be done once a week, while up to 30 liters of water per square meter of soil are consumed. Reduce watering during rainy periods. Mulch the soil regularly to keep moisture in the ground. For the flexibility and strength of the crown, sometimes watering is carried out with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

    How to crop

    Annual pruning of the shrub is mandatory, thanks to which the latter looks lush and blooms profusely. In autumn (October), all panicles, weak and old shoots, branches that grow inside the crown should be cut. Only 10-12 of the strongest shoots are left for wintering. Spring pruning is carried out before the release of the kidneys. For 2-3 buds, as a rule, adult stems are cut, and green shoots - for 3-5 buds. This helps to gain strength and bloom profusely by August. If you do not prune, the plant may not throw out the buds at all.

    fertilizers

    Shrubs are often fed, as fast-flowering plants require a lot of nutrients. In autumn, mineral fertilizers are added to the soil, in spring - a solution of urea (20 g per bucket). At first, green fertilizers are applied during the growing season, for example, from young nettles, while they are diluted with water 1:10. For a high panicled hydrangea (2 meters), there is 1 bucket of solution.

    Once every 2 weeks, when watering, an infusion of mullein should be applied (a bucket of manure is diluted with 3 liters of water and infused for 3 days). Before use, 1 liter of infusion must be diluted in a bucket of water. Before flowering mineral fertilizers deposited every 2 weeks. In August, feeding stops. If, before the release of buds, the flower was little or not fertilized at all, then the color of the petals will be faded, and few inflorescences will form.

    Diseases and pests

    Even with quality care, there is no 100% protection against diseases or pests. If the plant looks sluggish, then the likely cause may be overheating of the soil and the roots located in it. top layer. Since the shrub prefers sunny places, be sure to mulch its soil with peat, wood chips or crushed bark to protect it. root system from overheating.

    If the leaves begin to turn yellow, and the color of the veins does not change, this is a symptom of chlorosis, which develops in an alkaline soil environment. You can cure by acidifying the soil and feeding the flower iron vitriol. Other serious diseases that disturb a bush planted in the shade or too thick are:

    1. Powdery mildew. It starts with a gray coating on the foliage, gradually affects everything more area. The leaves darken, wither and fall off. When powdery mildew gets on young shoots, purple spots form on them, after which these parts of the plant die off.
    2. Gray rot. The disease is characterized by the appearance of rapidly growing brown spots. In rainy weather, gray myceliums are noticeable on such spots, while the spores of the fungus are easily transferred to other crops of the garden. This is due to the need to treat the disease as quickly as possible.
    3. Tracheomycotic wilt. The disease develops from the root system, after which the fungus spreads to the entire vascular system bush. As a result, some of the shoots turn yellow and the plant dies.
    4. White rot. Shrub roots suffer from this disease, as a result of which it does not receive the right nutrition from the ground, gradually wither and may die.

    These ailments can be treated with special preparations with a fungicidal effect. In addition to diseases, the plant can be affected by pests that are fought with insecticides. The bush can serve as a habitat:

    • snails that eat leaves;
    • aphids sucking juices from foliage;
    • weevils, leafworms, leaf beetles;
    • bugs, pennits, sucking life juices out of the plant;
    • nematodes eating roots;
    • spider mites (the main symptom of the disease is wilting and falling leaves; a cobweb on the underside of the leaves will confirm this diagnosis).

    reproduction

    As a rule, use the petiole method or reproduction by layering. For this purpose, green cuttings harvested during spring pruning are taken, but experienced gardeners recommend cutting them for planting in early June, when the shoots accumulate the right amount of moisture. Good material for grafting is the one that is located at the bottom of the table, it is plucked off with hands, and not with pruners. Cuttings are harvested up to 10 cm long and with 3-5 buds, after which they are soaked in a growth stimulator for a couple of days.

    When propagating by layering, it should be taken into account that this method is less productive than the petiole. Young flexible branches are taken from the mother bush, which grow on the side, after which they are pinned to the ground (for this, a hole 15 cm deep is prepared). In this case, supports in the form of a peg are necessarily used, with which the ends of the branches are tied. The bases of the shoots are sprinkled with a light mixture of peat and soil and moisten the ground. After the formation of its own roots, they can be separated from the mother bush and transplanted, given that the plant prefers loose, acidified soils.

    How to save a bush in winter

    Despite the resistance of the bush to temperature extremes and cold weather, it is better to take care of its safe wintering in advance. To this end, the most tender, vulnerable part of the plant should be well covered. The best insulation is rotted manure, dry leaves or peat. They are laid in the base with a thick layer (about 20 cm). With the help of such a pillow, the roots will be protected from the cold throughout the winter period.

    Video

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    There are many varieties of hydrangea, let's talk about one of the most beautiful varieties of this flowering shrub— Sunday Fries. This variety is considered a novelty, it was bred less than 10 years ago. What kind of care in the summer cottage does the hydrangea paniculata Sunday Frize require? In cultivation garden plants to preserve their decorative nuances have great importance so it's good to know about them.

    Variety Description

    Hydrangea variety paniculata Sundae fraise can be classified as miniature. In height, it grows by only 1.2 meters and reaches a meter in width, which is a very modest figure compared to its counterparts. Blooming hydrangea Sundae fraise wide pyramidal pink inflorescences up to 30 cm in length, resembling a strawberry ice cream in a glass. That is what gardeners called this variety of hydrangea.

    The flowering period starts in June and ends in October. When dissolving, the brushes have a snow-white color, then it is replaced by pink and the hydrangea ends its flowering with crimson hues. Thus, on one bush you can admire at the same time different colors It is a mesmerizing spectacle beyond description. It is well known that the color of the color and its intensity is affected by the acidity of the soil.

    The variety is considered frost-resistant. Its advantages include: effective appearance , undemanding to light and care, the ability to bloom in the first year after planting. Hydrangea Sunday Fraise in 2010 became a silver medalist at an exhibition in Holland.

    care requirements

    One of the main conditions for long flowering is regular top dressing. For spring and summer top dressing is carried out 4 times:

    1. simultaneously with the beginning of sap flow;
    2. during budding;
    3. in the middle of flowering;
    4. in preparation for wintering.

    Fertilizers should be purchased specially designed for hydrangeas, they are sold at any garden center. The inflorescences become larger and brighter, and the flowering itself is prolonged.

    Hydrangea variety Sundae fraise very moisture-loving, therefore watering should be regular and plentiful, with the exception of the rainy season. The soil under the plant should always remain slightly moist. Watch this especially on hot days. Periodically, it is useful to add a few crystals of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation.

    Hydrangeas necessarily carry out formative pruning. The best time for this is early spring. Old shoots are cut to the base, up to 5 buds are left on young and strong stems. In total, from 5 to 10 strong shoots should be present on the plant. All this contributes to the growth of a large number of new stems and a more compact form of the bush.

    Panicle hydrangea winters best under a dry flat shelter. shoots last year must be preserved, because it is on them that brushes of inflorescences will appear next season. The stems are bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches or plywood sheets. If the bush is small, you can cover it with a wooden box.

    Diseases

    Most often panicled hydrangea aphids infect and powdery mildew. Against aphids, the plant is treated with an infusion of garlic - it is non-toxic, completely natural remedy. To prepare it, 5-6 large heads of garlic are crushed, poured with a bucket of water and insisted for 48 hours. Then 50 g of chips are added to the infusion. laundry soap and mix properly.

    When processing, the bush is sprayed in such a way that the infusion falls on the underside of the leaves, this is where the accumulation of pests is located. Treatment is carried out 1 time per week until the complete disappearance of aphids. If folk way does not help, you will have to use industrial insecticides, their choice on sale is very wide. You need to act according to the instructions.

    Powdery mildew on panicled hydrangea can be defeated Bordeaux mixture in 1% concentration or foundationazole. The treatment is carried out several times with an interval of 10-12 days, until they are convinced that the signs of the disease have disappeared completely.

    reproduction

    The most popular way to propagate paniculate hydrangea is considered cuttings and propagation by layering. Cuttings can be obtained during the spring pruning of plants. Before planting, they are soaked in a root solution for 1-2 days and then planted in open ground suitable acidity, deepening into two kidneys.

    The land with plantings is regularly moistened and the seedlings are protected from bright sun. When leaves appear, the shading is removed and the hydrangeas are allowed to freely gain green mass. Seedlings bloom in the second year, but it is recommended to remove the first inflorescences so that they do not take away strength from young plants.

    For propagation by layering, young shoots are pinned to the ground and sprinkled with peat or loose fertile soil. Until next spring plants are not separated from the mother bush. Caring for them comes down to regular watering. Layering hibernates under spruce branches. After wintering, they are planted and grown as independent bushes.










    Variety: Sunday Frize ( Sundae Fraise)

    The “ice-cream” series from Jean Reno, beloved by gardeners, has been enriched with a new masterpiece. Hydrangea Sunday Frize is just what the owners of small gardens lacked; those who want to decorate a room or terrace with live, blooming hydrangeas will also be happy to buy seedlings of this variety.

    Characteristics

    The best way to demonstrate how the Sundae Fraise hydrangea is different from other paniculata is with a photo where it is in contrast with any of the tall varieties. A charming bush does not exceed a meter in height.

    Multi-stemmed, fast-growing, highly ornamental shrub resistant to diseases and pests. Panicle hydrangea Sunday Frize planted in Moscow ('Rensun' and 'Strawberry Sundae' - this is also her) thrives, despite dust, soot and exceeding the maximum concentration limit for ... (something there). Does not tolerate dry soil. Long before the "critical mark" reproachfully hangs the leaves, urging the owners to take up the watering can.

    Indifferent to how low the temperature drops in winter. After all, flowers are formed on the branches of the current year. Only very young seedlings cover, and then to protect not the branches, but the roots.

    The crown is dense, evenly developed. The branches are red-brown, crowned with wide-conical panicles 25 cm or more long. Under the weight of many inflorescences, they droop picturesquely, but do not lie on the ground.

    The cover is dense. The leaves are bright green, oval, arranged oppositely, covered with a thin, short soft pile. On the underside of the leaf, especially along the veins, the pubescence is more noticeable.

    In terms of flowering duration, the dwarf hydrangea Sundae Fraise is a real giant: from June to the end of September. In the city, where it is noticeably warmer, and even longer - until October.

    decorative

    Even a lengthy description of the Sunday Frize hydrangea is powerless to reflect the amount of color nuances on its petals. In addition to the classic strawberry red, you can find pink, purple, and even lavender ones on sale. And all because the variety reacts very subtly to growing conditions and climatic features of the current year.

    The authors of the variety claim that the true richness of colors comes with age. When placing an order, check if there are older hydrangea saplings Sunday Fries for sale. Prices are slightly higher, but the famous color a la strawberry ice cream is already there. Plus, the bushes are more powerful, if desired, they can soon be divided.

    The scope of application is extensive: tapeworms, groups, mixborders, hedges, container gardening and more. Effective on the stem. Colorful panicles do not fade in the sun, do not fade in partial shade.

    If horsetail is found on the site (indicator acidic soils) - the place is exactly right. To bring the pH closer to 5.5 - 6.0, peat or coniferous litter is added to the pit.

    Landing

    The root system of the shrub is compact, a hole of 20 * 20 * 20 cm is enough for him. The soil is mixed with peat and humus in equal proportions.

    The best time for planting in the Moscow region is spring, from the beginning of sap flow to bud break. The pit is shed ahead of time: for one seat consume no less than a bucket of warm water.

    The root neck can be slightly deepened - by a centimeter, no more. And it's better to leave it the way they grew in the nursery: our seedlings are sold with a lump, which you need to navigate. The final touch is a thick, 7-10 cm layer of mulch.

    Care

    Dwarf varieties of hydrangeas need fertilizer with the same frequency as tall ones. However, the rate should be halved.

    Pruning schemes differ depending on whether you need a thick bush or large inflorescences. The first is achieved with a minimum pruning depth (only last year's inflorescences are cut, plus 1-2 buds). In the second case, the crown is intensively thinned out, removing all weak branches that break the schedule.

    Are you looking for where to buy seedlings of hydrangea paniculata Sunday Fries? We have highly reliable planting material plus no trade markups. Own nursery in the Moscow region, fast delivery in the region. Lifetime guarantee.

    Many of us grow in summer cottages not only fruit and vegetable plants, but also cultivate flowers - petunias, daffodils, tulips, lilies, clematis. And if you have a desire to replenish your collection with some other lush flowering plant, then we recommend that you read our article on panicled hydrangea.

    The natural habitats of this hydrangea are the territories of the southern coast of Sakhalin, the islands of Japan and China. There it can reach ten meters in height. In our latitudes, it also grows remarkably well, adapted to both heat and frost. But its height is usually no more than two or three meters. With careful care per year, the bush adds 25 centimeters. Even if some of the shoots suffer in harsh winters, this hydrangea will quickly recover. The shoots are brown-red, grow straight, sometimes spread out, from the second year the stems become debilitated.

    This representative of the hydrangea family looks very picturesque from mid-summer to October frosts, when wonderful flowers open in its panicle inflorescences, reaching a length of up to 35 centimeters. They can be of two types:

    • sterile (about three centimeters, do not fall off for a long time);
    • bisexual (they are smaller in size, after pollination happens, they quickly lose their petals).

    The first flowers on the paniculate hydrangea appear at the age of three years.

    In many varieties of panicled hydrangea, during flowering, a change in the color of the petals occurs. They may be creamy at first, then turn pink, and then turn red or green. It happens that there are so many flowers that under their weight the branches bend and even break if supports are not put in time. The leaves of this plant are bright, large (up to 15 centimeters in length), elliptical in shape, with a pointed tip and small teeth along the edge. They have a pleasant velvety texture, there is pubescence. The veins are strongly depressed. All branches are abundantly covered with closely spaced leaf blades. The age of these centenarians can reach up to 60 years. Hydrangea can adapt to adverse conditions environment, for example, if there are increased levels of gas and smoke in the air.

    Which hydrangea to choose?

    First, we will give the names of varieties of panicled hydrangea, which flower growers have been successfully growing for a long time:

    1. "Limelight" - grows like a neat shrub, keeps its shape even without props. The height is within two meters. In partial shade, the flowers have a lime shade. If this plant is constantly under the influence sun rays, then the flowers will be white, and in the final stage they will turn a little pink. In autumn, the leaves turn from green to purple. A plant of this variety needs loose soil with an acid reaction of the environment, where lime was not added.
    2. "Kyushu" - the crown is sprawling, fan-shaped, the height of the plant is about three meters. From the white-pink flowers comes a pleasant aroma. The color of the leaf stalks is reddish.
    3. "Matilda" - the height of the plant is within two meters, and the width is about three. During long flowering, it is interesting to observe how the color of fragrant flowers changes - from cream to pink-green.
    4. "Grandiflora" - pleases with large pyramidal "panicles", but they bloom a little later than other varieties. At first their color is cream, then white, later appears pink shade, but in autumn the color is reddish-green.
    5. "Floribunda" - shoots up to two meters, decorated with creamy white lush inflorescences. The flowers are large, located on long stalks.

    Gradually, other varieties spread in gardens and parks:

    • "Tardiva" - this three-meter bush blooms from August to October. Looks good in group compositions. At first, the cone-shaped "panicles" are creamy white, by the end of flowering they are pink-purple.
    • "Vanilla Fraise" - by the beginning of autumn, white-pink inflorescences turn crimson, and in October they turn purple, while the top remains white. Such a wonderful variety was created by Jean Reno, a breeder from France.
    • "Fries Melba" is another unpretentious and frost-resistant "brainchild" of the Frenchman Renault. Strong shoots (up to two meters), supporting large inflorescences without supports, where white and crimson colors contrast.
    • "Candelight" - a dense, profusely flowering bush, whose height is not more than 150 centimeters. Conical inflorescences, first with yellow-green flowers, which then change color to golden-cream, and by October - to reddish.
    • "Brussels Lace" - fruiting white flowers are so delicate that the bush is compared to the beauty of the bride. Wine-colored shoots, less than two meters.
    • "Baby Lace" - easy to grow, resistant to powdery mildew. Its height is not more than 120 centimeters. The inflorescences are small (up to 15 centimeters), initially their color is white, then turning into pink tones.
    • "Pink Diamond" - over time, the inflorescences become almost red.
    • "Pinky Winky" - the color of the "panicles" is first white, then pink-red, purple-pink. The stems are strong. In autumn, the color of the leaves turns purplish-purple.
    • "Unique" - has fragrant snow-white wide-conical inflorescences that turn pink by autumn.
    • "Diamond Rouge" - at first the inflorescences are white, and in the fall they are cherry red.
    • "Silver Dollar" - its landscape designers place it in parks next to others ornamental plants. Inflorescences are greenish-white, by autumn they turn into silver-pink.
    • "Mega Pearl" - looks good both on the lawn and in combination with other bushes.
    • "Dolly" - its "height" is just over 150 centimeters, white inflorescences flaunt on strong stems, turning pink by autumn.
    • "Sunday Fraise", translated as "Strawberry Ice Cream" - a compact bush, whose height is no more than a meter. The inflorescence consists of sterile greenish-white flowers, then in the lower part the inflorescence changes to a strawberry color.
    • "Weems Red" - on strong shoots, whose height is up to 180 centimeters, large inflorescences look amazing, some of them are 35 centimeters long. From June to September, you will see them first cream, then pink, then turn into a richer pink, and finally wine red.
    • "Bombshell" - the entire dwarf shrub is covered with white flowers.
    • "Bobo" - does not grow more than 70 centimeters in height, already at the end of June, the first flowers in dense cone-shaped inflorescences open on it. At first, their color is white or with the presence of a lemon tint, then pink.
    • "Little Lime" - greenish flowers open on one and a half meter shoots, which turn pink by autumn.
    • "Phantom" - against the background of velvety dark green foliage, large creamy inflorescences stand out, in which most of the flowers are sterile. At the ends of the inflorescences, a pink "blush" is noticeable.
    • "Polar Bear" - a frost-resistant bush with an abundance of snow-white "panicles".

    Varieties that need a lot of sunlight and moisture: Unique, Levana, Diamond Rouge, Phantom, Diamantino.

    The most suitable varieties of panicle hydrangea for the Moscow region are: "Bobo", "Grandiflora", "Vanilla Fries", "Pinky Winky", "Limelight", "Tardiva", "Kiushu", "Polar Bear", "Mega Pearl", " Phantom", "Fries Melba".

    It is difficult to single out the best varieties of paniculate hydrangea, they are all good in their own way. We only note that the varieties bloom delightfully - Great Star, Vanilla Fries, Airlie Sensation, Magical Candle, Diamond Rouge, Magical Fire, Fries Melba.

    Let's plant panicle hydrangea

    It is very important to choose the right place for the seedling on the site. Some varieties grow well in partial shade, while others need plenty of sun. As for the soil, it should be clay or loamy, but necessarily fertile. Sandy soils are not suitable for hydrangeas. Most hydrangeas need an acid reaction of the environment, then the color of the flowers will turn out bright, and there will be a lot of “panicles”. To acidify the soil, you can take semi-rotted needles (from spruce or pine), brown peat, sawdust. Under this culture, dolomite flour, ash, lime are not introduced.

    In order to keep moisture under the crown longer, ground covers are placed near the hydrangea, for example, stonecrops, saxifrage.

    Paniculata hydrangeas are planted in open ground in early spring or September. It is still advisable to buy a panicled hydrangea in the spring, then it will take root very quickly and go into active growth. You can do this at flower fairs, nurseries, garden shops and centers. When planting this plant in the fall, there is a risk that a rapid cooling will prevent the hydrangea from settling in and taking root in a new place for it. Make a hole for planting a paniculate hydrangea wide (at least 70 centimeters in diameter) and deep (about 50 centimeters). Add a portion of fertilizer (mineral or organic) to the recess. Fill in a mound of fertile soil, moisten it. When the water is absorbed, distribute the roots on the mound, and then cover them with the remaining soil so as not to accidentally deepen root collar. It should remain level with the ground. Tamp the place under the hydrangea and water abundantly. If you have several seedlings, it is recommended to leave a distance of 150 centimeters between them (for tall plants) or 70 centimeters each (for compact and dwarf forms).

    Recommendations for the further care of paniculate hydrangea

    1. Water the hydrangea regularly and plentifully. If the weather is hot, without precipitation, then at least twice a week. Avoid cracking the ground under the hydrangea, loosen the soil shallowly after rain or watering, while pulling out weeds.
    2. Mulching with needles or peat chips will help retain moisture in the soil layer longer.
    3. It is desirable to carry out top dressing every ten days, alternating organic with mineral complexes. Organic is diluted slurry or chicken. You can add a little fermented nettle infusion to the water for irrigation. IN flower shops special fertilizers are sold, designed specifically for hydrangeas, in which all dosages are verified. In August, all feeding stops. If top dressing is rare or not carried out at all, then few inflorescences are formed, and the color of the petals turns out to be faded. To make the color more vivid and expressive, you can use mixtures for hydrangeas created on the basis of alum.
    4. Pruning - too important element hydrangea care. Let's dwell on this in more detail.

    How to prune paniculate hydrangea?

    Annual pruning for Hydrangea paniculata is very important, as it helps to ensure that the bush looks lush and blooms profusely. In autumn, it is necessary to cut off all the "panicles", as well as weak and old shoots, branches, the growth of which is directed inside the crown. From 10 to 12 of the strongest shoots are left for wintering.

    Spring pruning should be done before bud break occurs. For 2-3 buds, adult shoots are usually cut, and young stems - for 3-5 buds. As a result, the bush will gain strength, by August it will give an abundance of inflorescences. Do not forget to shorten frozen shoots and those that look weak or sick in the spring. For gardeners who do not prune paniculate hydrangea, it may not produce flowers. If your bush is old and you want to rejuvenate it, then cut all the shoots under the "stump". In two years, the bush should be restored.

    Possible difficulties in growing paniculate hydrangea

    It happens that the gardener diligently moisturizes his pet, but the leaves on it still droop, the bush looks lethargic. Probably, under your hydrangea, the soil and the roots located in its upper layer are overheating. Be sure to mulch the soil with peat, crushed bark or wood chips.

    Another nuisance is the yellowing of the foliage on hydrangeas. At the same time, the color of the veins does not change - they are green. These are signs of chlorosis. And it occurs if the soil environment is alkaline. Symptoms will go away when you acidify the soil by feeding the hydrangea with iron sulfate.

    There are serious diseases that can disturb hydrangeas that are in the shade or heavily thickened:

    1. Gray rot - it is characterized by fast-growing brown spots. In inclement, rainy weather, gray mycelium can be seen on such spots, spores of the pathogen fungus can quickly spread to other crops. garden plot. Therefore, immediately, as soon as you notice the listed symptoms, take measures to save the hydrangea and prevent the spread of the disease to other plantings.
    2. Powdery mildew - begins with the fact that a gray coating appears on some leaves. Gradually it becomes more, it darkens. Other leaves are also affected, which then wither and leave the hydrangea. If powdery mildew gets on young shoots, then purple spots are noticeable on them, these parts of the plant die off. Such shoots are unlikely to survive the winter.
    3. White rot - hydrangea roots suffer from it, as a result of which it does not receive the necessary nutrition from the soil, withers and may die.
    4. Tracheomycotic wilt - the lesion begins with the root system. Soon the fungus passes to the entire vascular system of this plant. Some of the shoots turn yellow, wither, and all this can lead to the death of the bush.

    You can try to cope with the listed diseases with the help of special preparations called fungicides.

    What does the drying and falling of leaves on a bush indicate? First, pay attention to the underside of the sheet plates. Gossamer - a sure indicator that they settled on hydrangeas spider mites. To combat them, the Aktellik tool is suitable.

    There are other pests on hydrangeas:

    • snails that feed on leaves;
    • aphids sucking juices from leaves;
    • bedbugs, pennitsy, also sucking out vital juices;
    • weevils, leaf beetles, leafworms that feed on foliage;
    • root-eating nematodes.

    From these pests you can try folk remedies or special insecticides.

    How does hydrangea winter?

    Now many wonderful varieties have been created that winter well without any shelters. But young seedlings should still be covered with spruce "paws". If you live in regions where winters are harsh, then it is better to play it safe and cover even adult hydrangea bushes in panicled autumn.

    How can this species be propagated?

    There are a few possible ways breeding hydrangea paniculata:

    • seeds;
    • layering;
    • dividing a bush that has grown over the years;
    • cuttings.

    We will immediately warn you that the hydrangea has very tiny seeds, their germination is low, and grading may be lost. Such a seedling blooms only after four years. Usually flower growers resort to cuttings. Cutting (or pinching off) cuttings from panicle hydrangea is carried out in June (from the 10th to the 15th) from annual shoots (ripe, at this time buds appear on the plant). If the cuttings were cut in the spring or autumn months, then their rooting is poor. There must be at least three pairs of buds on the handle. From the lower kidney, you must leave a distance of two centimeters, and only then make a cut. On short shoots, upper cuts are not made. But if the shoot is long, then the upper cut should be made so that five more centimeters remain above the upper kidney. The lower leaves must be removed, and it is permissible to leave one or two leaves on the top, cutting them off in the middle. For several hours (possibly a day), hold the cuttings in water with a growth stimulator (for example, "Heteroauxin"). Fill the containers with a mixture of peat and sand. Bury each cutting into the substrate by three centimeters. Cover the cuttings with clear plastic cups. For rooting to be successful, keep the substrate in the container moist. Every day, the cups are removed so that it is possible to water the cuttings and sprinkle. You will notice signs indicating rooting in about a month. For the winter, such containers are transferred to a cool room where they will not freeze. Such cuttings can already be transplanted to their designated places next year, in August. If a small bush tries to give buds at this time, then you will have to cut them off so that the plant does not waste energy on flowering, but uses them to prepare for winter. Such seedlings are covered in autumn, winter hardiness will come to them after flowering (after four years).

    By layering this hydrangea is propagated like this. Next to the adult bush, make a groove 20 centimeters deep. Bend the one-year-old shoot there, first making small cuts in the place where the roots may grow. The layer must be attached to the ground with a bracket. The top must be vertical. Backfill the groove so that the top remains unfilled. Water this place periodically. A year later, the grown young growth can be cut off from an adult bush and transferred to another place.

    If you have already developed good bush, which you want to divide into two or three parts, then dig it completely in the spring (you can at the very beginning of autumn), and then divide it. At the same time, several kidneys should remain on each part, from which renewal will begin.

    Landscape designers often combine panicle and tree hydrangeas to create spectacular compositions. These plants are combined with conifers, lilacs, spireas, irises, peonies, roses, astilbes, Goryanka, anemones. In parks and squares, hydrangea is alternated with plantings of birch, maple, and willow.

    Hydrangea paniculata, photo







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