Air conditioners are the most popular equipment during the hot season. That is why they are widely used in offices, houses, apartments, etc. Air conditioning systems are characterized by the complexity of installation, so users often turn to specialists for help. If you understand the diagram, you can make a connection.
Installation of indoor and outdoor units
In order to ensure high level performance of air conditioning systems, it is important to correctly install the indoor and outdoor units. Installation of the indoor unit is carried out on special plates, which are supplied in the kit.
The mounting plate is attached to the location where the indoor unit of the air conditioning system is installed. In order to ensure reliable operation of the unit and prevent condensation from leaking out, it is necessary to properly secure the plates. First, mark the locations of the holes in the plate on the wall and use a hammer drill to drill holes. Dowels are installed in them. The mounting plate is attached to the wall by screwing self-tapping screws into dowels. The final stage is installing the indoor unit on the plate.
The outdoor unit is installed from the outside of the building. To ensure convenience during its maintenance, the mount is made on the side of the window or under it. The outdoor unit of the air conditioner is connected using a special device that is supplied in the kit.
IMPORTANT! In order to ensure efficient operation of the unit, it is installed at a distance of 10 centimeters from the wall.
Features of connecting the route
Many people ask how to connect an air conditioner with their own hands. It’s quite easy to do it yourself – you just need to know the air conditioner connection diagram. An important role in it is played by the route, which consists of:
- drainage pipeline;
- power cables;
- equipment management;
- freon line.
Connecting the air conditioner to the electrical network requires measuring the length of the route. 30-50 centimeters are added to this indicator. Initially, copper tubes are wired, which are cut using a pipe cutter.
Attention! When laying copper pipes, using a hacksaw or grinder to cut them is strictly prohibited. This is explained by the fact that during the cutting process with such tools, chips are generated, the entry of which into the air conditioning system leads to its breakdown.
Connecting the air conditioner requires placing the pipelines in a thermally insulating shell before installation, and the holes are closed with plugs to prevent the possibility of dust getting inside. All components of the route are put together and secured with vinyl tape. Next, the route is installed in place.
After the communications have been laid, they begin to connect the freon line and electrical wiring. You can independently connect the air conditioner to the electrical network - the diagram is included in the kit. It shows in detail how to connect the air conditioner to the electrical network.
IMPORTANT! When installing the electrical system, all actions must be performed strictly according to the diagram. Otherwise, the air conditioner may burn out when first turned on due to a short circuit.
The next stage of installation is adjusting the length of the tubes and removing burrs. A reamer is used for this purpose. The nut is threaded and each edge of the tubes is flared. Then, we connect the edges of the tubes to the fittings of the indoor and outdoor units. Using a torque wrench, tighten the nuts as efficiently as possible.
WARNING! If the nuts are not tightened enough, they will loosen a little over time, which will negatively affect the operation of the air conditioning system.
After connecting the route, check its tightness. In the video you can see the leak testing technology. Next, moisture and air are removed from the system. For this purpose, a vacuum pump is used. Connect it to the service port of the outdoor unit via a pressure gauge corrector. Pumping out air and moisture should be carried out within half an hour. The next step is to fill the circuit with freon.
Warning! If the route is not sealed, a freon leak may occur - a common cause of breakdown of air conditioning systems. The air conditioning compressor wiring diagram will show how to tightly connect the route.
Compressor connection features
Let us consider in detail how to connect a compressor from a bk 1500 air conditioner. The connection is made taking into account:
- features of the compressor itself;
- used by the voltage conditioning system;
- power of air conditioning systems.
The air conditioning compressor starts in a few seconds.
Operation scheme
Connecting the air conditioning compressor - simple task. Any of the two compressor outputs are connected to the power supply. A terminal is connected from the third output. Wiring is connected to the second output. We complete the connection of the compressor and check its level of performance. To do this, the air conditioning system is turned on for several minutes and the degree of heating of the compressor is determined.
Attention! If the compressor heats up strongly and quickly, this indicates bad work wiring. To correct problems, it is swapped at the compressor outlet.
Automotive air conditioning systems differ from stationary ones. Therefore, when installing them, a connection diagram is used air conditioner Panasonic on Lada Granta. Proper connection of air conditioning systems in a vehicle will guarantee its excellent performance.
Example of connecting air conditioning systems
Connecting a mobile air conditioner is carried out in the same sequence as a stationary one. Connecting to the electrical network with your own hands is done in several stages. Initially in electrical panel a separate machine designed for the air conditioner is installed. Next, the phase wire of a three-core cable, which is black or brown in color, is connected to the phase terminal of the machine. The blue cable wire is connected to the neutral bus of the electrical panel. A yellow-green wire, if available, is attached to the ground wire of the electrical wiring.
IMPORTANT! Electrical wiring must be connected correctly. Otherwise, you can cause the air conditioning system to suffer serious damage or complete failure.
In the absence of grounding, use for protection against damage electric shock differential relay. If you don’t know how to connect an air conditioner with your own hands, the video will tell you about it. With its help, you can also learn about the features of connecting a diffuse relay.
If you want to learn how to connect a floor-standing air conditioner, then you must first install its indoor unit. For this purpose, use a three-phase cable with three wires of different colors:
- black;
- blue;
- green.
Sometimes the color of one wire may be yellow-green. The electrical connection diagram for the air conditioner will tell you in detail about the installation of the indoor unit. The wire, characterized by the presence of a black braid and coming from the machine, is connected to the L-terminal. Wires coming from the automatic switchboard and having blue, are connected to the N terminal. In the internal block of the device, yellow-green colored wiring is connected to the terminal ground. The connection diagram for the Kalina air conditioner shows exactly the same installation of air conditioning systems.
Attention! The external unit of air conditioning systems is connected according to the same scheme. When installing an outdoor unit, wiring with a cross-section of 3x2.5 millimeters is used.
The output circuit breaker is installed on the load current in the electrical panel. When installing electrical wiring, special tubes are used. If electrical wiring is laid together with drainage or near areas where freon leaks, then use a corrugated tube.
It is quite possible to connect the air conditioning system with your own hands. To do this, you must study the instructions and perform all actions in strict accordance with them.
Anton Tsugunov
Reading time: 4 minutes
All more people V lately are thinking about purchasing and installing devices to control the microclimate in their home. In urban environments, especially if the apartment is entirely on the sunny side, air conditioning is the only option for creating comfort during the hot summer months. The considerable cost of this useful device makes you want to save money by installing the split system yourself. Is this procedure as complicated as air conditioning installation companies claim? And how to install an air conditioner yourself according to all the rules to ensure its uninterrupted operation for as long as possible?
Types of air conditioners
To create comfortable conditions The following types of air conditioners are used in apartments:
Monoblock systems
All air conditioner units are placed in one housing. This reduces the cost of the device, but also leads to certain inconveniences: the bulkiness of the system and rather high noise from the compressor operating even not at full power. They, in turn, are divided into two types:
- Window air conditioners. Pioneers among apartment systems. The main disadvantage: the device block occupies a significant part of the window opening. This prevents access sunlight into the room, and it is extremely difficult to fit its interior harmoniously. Therefore, air conditioners of this type are becoming increasingly rare.
- . Much more attractive in design than window ones. In addition to the tempting possibility of movement, they have another undeniable advantage: the block practically does not require installation. It is enough to simply equip with your own hands an exhaust hood from the room to the outside, to which the system is connected. But the cost of such air conditioners is quite high.
Two-block systems
In devices of this type, refrigerant circulates between the outdoor and indoor units of the air conditioner. The main advantage of such systems is noiselessness. The main “troublemaker” – the compressor – is located behind the wall. Indoor units have different design and can be placed in the most convenient place. Divided into 3 types:
- Wall split systems. The most affordable and widespread currently have a power from 2 to 7 kW. They are perfect for maintaining the desired microclimate: they create coolness in the summer, but it is also possible to operate the air conditioner for heating in the winter. It is for such systems that the most pressing question is: how to install an air conditioner without resorting to the help of professionals?
- Duct air conditioners. They are installed under a suspended ceiling structure and have a high power of 12–25 kW. This is enough for a fairly spacious apartment. The task is complicated by the need to correctly calculate the air exchange in the room. By installing thermostats and special electric valves, you can set the system to its own temperature for each room in the apartment. Naturally, this complicates the installation of system units and significantly increases its cost.
- Cassette air conditioners. The main system is also hidden suspended ceiling. Cassette split systems are made so as not to stand out. As a rule, the dimensions of the cassette air conditioner grille coincide with the dimensions ceiling tiles: 600 by 600 mm, and with higher power - 600 by 1200 mm. The dimensions of the indoor unit make it possible to easily place it and all the necessary communications inside a standard metal profile grille used for the installation of suspended structures.
Preparing to install an air conditioner with your own hands: choosing a location
Since wall-mounted split systems are the most popular, we will describe how to install an air conditioner with your own hands in relation to them.
Choosing a location for the outdoor unit of the air conditioner in apartment building may cause some difficulties:
- The external unit of the system cools the refrigerant, so it should be placed in such a way as to avoid heating from the sun as much as possible. The north or east side of the house or balcony works well.
- The massive outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be placed so as not to disturb the neighbors.
- It is unacceptable for condensation from drainage pipe flowed down the wall of the house. It needs to be taken out as far as possible.
- Like any device, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner requires periodic maintenance. Therefore, it must be located so that it can be approached without special effort and risk.
When choosing a location for the internal part of the system, there are also a number of conditions:
- It should not be placed near heating system elements.
- It is unacceptable for the inside of the split system to be covered with curtains or other objects that impede the free movement of air.
- The processor of the air conditioner unit may fail if it is in an area of intense electrical noise generated by household appliances. Therefore, for example, it cannot be placed in the kitchen.
Tools
Selection the necessary tool It won't be easy either. To work you will need:
- Pumps: vacuum and bicycle.
- Pipe flaring kit. It's better to come with a pipe cutter. You cannot cut copper tubes with any other tool - sawdust will certainly get inside them, which will damage the vacuum pump.
- Reamer for finishing of flared pipes.
- Pressure gauge for measuring pressure in the air conditioning system.
- Indicator screwdriver and tester for installing electrical wiring of units.
- Hammer.
- Copper tube coil.
It is better to take a whole coil of tubes, with the ends rolled at the factory. You can never guess which tool was used to cut the tube if you purchase only part of the coil. Copper tubes should not have dents, cracks or other defects.
Installation of the external air conditioner unit
You should immediately take into account that the outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be located lower than the indoor one.
- After marking the mounting locations for the brackets, a hole for communications is drilled. Of course, in this case it is necessary to avoid the drill from getting into other communications or fittings, so the location for the hole must be chosen carefully. In a brick wall, it is better to lay it along the masonry seam. If the concrete slab has frequent reinforcement, then the only way out is to drill a separate small hole under each wire or tube of the system.
- The brackets are secured to the wall with anchor bolts. You can fix the outdoor unit of the air conditioner directly on the balcony by slightly changing the mounting pattern. But in any case, it is important to maintain the level: at the slightest distortion of the system, problems with condensate drainage will arise.
- The most difficult stage of the operation is the direct installation of the external unit with your own hands. It weighs at least 60 kg, which is why this work must be done by at least two people. To securely secure the air conditioner to the brackets, you may need the help of industrial climbers or special equipment.
For normal operation of the system, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 100 mm between the air conditioner housing and the wall.
Installation of the indoor unit and necessary communications
Work progress:
- The indoor unit is attached with your own hands to the mounting plate using a latch system. The plate is securely attached to the wall at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling and at least 5 cm from the corner of the room. Having lifted the inner part together, it is fixed with latches.
- Copper air conditioner pipes for supplying refrigerant are cut with a meter margin for expected bends. The minimum length of these communications is at least 1.5 meters. Having carefully bent them, put on the nuts and flare the ends. The nuts are tightened tightly on the fittings, but without much force.
- The drainage tube is attached to the block with a threaded flange or using a piece of heat-shrinkable hose.
- The power supply to the air conditioner must be done through an automatic machine. For a split system, its own wiring with a cross-section of at least 1.5 square meters is laid. mm. A yellow wire with a green stripe is usually zero. This is where an indicator and a tester come in handy.
- Both parts of the air conditioner are connected with stranded wires according to the diagram from the instructions. If you have the slightest doubt, it is better to consult a specialist; repairing the system in case of incorrect connection will cost more.
Checking the tightness and filling the system
Performed in the following sequence:
- A bicycle pump is connected to the nipple, and all joints and tubes are covered with soapy water. If bubbles appear when air is supplied, the nuts on the fittings should be tightened.
- After checking the tightness, the air is pumped out from the air conditioner. A vacuum pump is connected to the nipple and runs for at least an hour. This is necessary for complete removal moisture from the system.
- By connecting a freon cylinder to the unit using an adapter with a pressure gauge, the system is filled until the pressure specified in the instructions is reached. Then turn on the power supply through the machine.
When purchasing a modern split system, the issue of its installation and connection comes to the fore. Typically, service providers offer quite expensive assistance. An alternative solution would be to connect the air conditioner yourself. This procedure It seems quite complicated and time-consuming, however, this is only at first glance. In fact, it is quite possible for an ordinary consumer to produce it.
Before acquiring the skills to independently connect, you must first familiarize yourself with the principles of operation of the split system.
Basic operating principles
In order to install correctly and avoid critical errors, you need to know well how the device works. 
- The main part of the device is the refrigerant. Usually it is freon. The refrigerant gradually enters the evaporator container. There, freon is subjected to heat treatment, its expansion and evaporation occurs. Thus, the refrigerant consumes excess heat.
- Excess moisture enters the radiator in the form of condensation, from there it flows into a special container and is removed from the device through it.
- Freon vapor is pumped out of the evaporation compartment using a special compressor. The refrigerant undergoes an increase in temperature and changes its state to a foggy-like state.
- Freon enters the compartment with the capacitor located in it. There the temperature of the refrigerant decreases and it turns into a liquid state.
- Liquid freon again enters the evaporator compartment, and then the main operating cycle of the device is repeated.
In order for installation and installation to be completed correctly, before connecting the air conditioner yourself, it is recommended to understand and remember the basic principles of the air conditioner.
Basic nuances during installation
Before installing the equipment, you must also familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for proper operation:
- It is imperative to monitor the condition of the drainage pipe. It should not have additional kinks or bends. Excessive kinks are an excellent environment for the emergence of pathogenic bacteria.
- Maximum energy savings. It is worth protecting the compressor from excessive load.
- Carry out the procedure for installing the outdoor unit in the coolest place. Its additional heating ensures unnecessary electricity consumption by the device.
- During installation, it is necessary to prevent dust and dirt from entering the system.
- To save energy and reduce the load on the compressor, it is necessary to mount the indoor unit higher than the outdoor unit.
- When working, you must strive not to break the tightness of the device and prevent the appearance of cracks. Otherwise, it will cause refrigerant leakage.
Before connecting the air conditioner yourself, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with these nuances and follow them during installation.
Choosing an installation location
Before installation, you should carefully study the requirements for the split system. They are outlined in the instructions for the device.
The air conditioner does not require a specific installation location, but when choosing it you should adhere to the following criteria: 
- The location of the indoor and outdoor units should be selected by calculating the minimum length of the route. If it is less than 6 m, then additional refilling of the equipment with freon will not be required. If its length is short, the formation of moisture and condensation in the device will be reduced.
- When installing the indoor unit, the distance of the unit from the ceiling should be taken into account. It must be at least 15 centimeters. The distance to the side wall should be higher than 30 centimeters.
- Air flows must circulate without obstacles, freely at a distance of at least 1.5 m.
- The outdoor unit also requires compliance with basic installation rules. It is recommended to install it either directly under the window or on the right side of it.
Connecting an air conditioner with your own hands requires compliance with basic installation requirements and the right choice device locations. Only if all these requirements are met can the correct and durable operation of the split system be guaranteed.
Route length
When installing the system, you may encounter the problem of route length. It is necessary to calculate its length as accurately as possible for further maximum efficient operation of the air conditioner.
Remember that after calculating the optimal length, you should add 50 centimeters to it. In this case, you can not be afraid to carry out installation with bends, without fear of damaging the integrity of the pipes.
The optimal length should not exceed 6 meters. If during calculations it turns out to be significantly higher, it is recommended to change the layout and perform the calculation again.
For any (both low and high) route length, a loop must be installed. It is necessary to suppress vibrations.
After calculating the length, you should purchase a kit for connecting the air conditioner. Its minimum length should be approximately 1.5 meters.
Tools
To carry out the self-installation procedure, you will need the following tools:
- Pressure gauge
- Tester
- Power phase indicator
- Hammer
- Chisel for a hammer drill with a diameter of 10 cm
- Pump with vacuum system
- Hand pump
- Pipe cutting device
- Scouring
- Flaring kit.
Installation process
It is worth familiarizing yourself with the installation process of the air conditioner. It is necessary to follow the sequence of work, and it is also necessary to carry out the electrical connection of the air conditioner in compliance with basic safety rules.
Installation of the outdoor unit
It is worth noting that independent work only permissible when installed on the first and second floors of buildings. At higher altitudes, you must contact specialists. An alternative is to install an external unit on loggias or balconies of the upper floors of buildings.
Installing an external unit does not require additional skills and does not cause difficulties in operation. For optimal performance, it is recommended to work in pairs.
- First you need to choose a place for the brackets, install and secure them.
- Then install the outdoor unit on the brackets and attach it.
Installation of the indoor unit
Basic steps when installing the unit indoors:
- Determining the optimal location
- Installation of electrical wiring
- Installation of communication holes
- Pipeline laying
- Connecting blocks
- Checking the system for leaks
- Establishing a vacuum inside the air conditioner
- Filling the unit with refrigerant
- Connecting the air conditioner to the mains
- Carrying out a test operation of the air conditioner
- Insulation of the harness passing between the blocks
- Closing a hole in the wall.
Before carrying out the installation procedure, you should familiarize yourself with the basic requirements:
- It is prohibited to install the unit in places that obstruct air flow (behind curtains and drapes)
- Installation above heating appliances is prohibited
- Installation is prohibited in rooms with a large number electrical equipment that creates interference (for example, electrical appliances in the kitchen interfere with the operation of the air conditioner, so it is not advisable to install an indoor unit in this room)
Completing the installation
After completing the installation procedure, you should ensure that the device is operating correctly. To do this, you need to turn on the circuit breaker. The device will start operating in test mode. If this mode does not turn on on its own, you should turn it on using the control panel. If in this case it is impossible to enable the test mode, you should disconnect the device from the network and seek help from specialists.
If the air conditioning test system has started and was completed successfully, you should pay attention to the air flow. If the apartment receives cold air, the blinds on the indoor unit have taken the optimal position and are oscillating, which means the installation and installation of the split system was carried out correctly. You can begin standard operation of the device.
In order for the air conditioner to work as long as possible and to avoid malfunctions, you should constantly monitor the condition of the device, clean it, disinfect it and refill the freon refrigerant level in a timely manner. If there is the slightest malfunction in the operation of the system and a decrease in operating efficiency, you should disconnect the device from the network and carry out diagnostics.
Compared to other air conditioning devices, the split system has a more complex two-block design. This system consists of an external compressor-condenser module and an internal evaporator module with a corresponding number of communications through which freon and electricity are supplied and condensate is discharged. This scheme complicates installation, but does not exclude self-installation. To install such an air conditioner yourself, just read the instructions, make up for the lack of knowledge and experience through Internet resources, and consult with specialists.
Installation features depend on the design of the indoor module, which can be wall-mounted or floor-mounted. To save space, small apartments usually use a wall-mounted air conditioner. This split is somewhat more difficult to install due to the need for durable wall mounting. But regardless of the details, the work is carried out in the following sequence:
- installation of separate wiring;
- installation of an external condenser unit;
- fastening the evaporator (indoor unit);
- connection of communications with vacuum;
- test activation.
Tools
To install the split yourself you will need a tool. It is recommended to include in the set:
- a drill with a hammer drill and a corresponding set of drills that is capable of breaking through a solid concrete wall;
- pipe cutter for neatly cutting pipes without the threat of clogging with copper shavings;
- a kit for flaring the edges of tubes, which will ensure the tightness of the connections;
- an example that can be used to strip the ends of connections;
- a pump, possibly a bicycle pump, to assess the tightness;
- vacuum cleaner, to remove moisture from the system by vacuuming;
- indicator screwdriver and tester for wiring;
- pressure gauge for pressure control.
How to choose a place
Before installing split system modules, it is necessary to correctly determine their location. For the external unit, the space should be:
- protect the device from direct sun rays and exposure to dust;
- guarantee the stability of the structure;
- provide sufficient free space for normal operation of the device.
Here such a situation is excluded, and the necessary protection of the unit is provided by the visor. An additional advantage is ease of maintenance. When choosing a location for the compressor you need to:
- provide protection from sun or heating;
- eliminate the threat of ignition of various vapors and gas leaks;
- provide the required free space and distance from the floor around the perimeter of the block as required by the instructions;
- prevent interference from constantly operating electrical appliances (distance of at least a meter);
- guarantee the strength of the wall, preventing the structure from collapsing.
Installation of separate wiring
A split system, even in its most low-power version, requires at least 1.5 kW. Such power requires a separate line, unloaded by other consumers, especially in houses earlier than 1990.
It requires:
- two-core wire with a cross-section of 1.5 to 2 mm, always copper;
- 16A circuit breaker.
If you plan to hide the wiring in a groove, then you should take care of this during the renovation so as not to spoil the expensive interior of the renovated apartment. When the idea to install a split came after a renovation, the solution may be to install additional wiring in the box. In any case, this will allow:
- avoid overloads;
- prevent device failure;
- eliminate the possibility of fire as a result of a short circuit.
Installing an external condenser unit
The complexity of this stage depends on the location where you decide to place the air conditioner. Three options can be used:
- on the open balcony;
- on the loggia;
- on the wall.
On the balcony, it is enough to install short brackets and place the module on them. The protection function will be performed by a standard balcony canopy.
When choosing a loggia, you can limit yourself to the same brackets, but you should remember that a closed space does not provide the necessary air circulation, which will damage the air conditioner.
Open doors will help avoid this, which reduces the value of the loggia, especially in winter. It is impossible to mount the module on the wall without reinforced brackets, which must confidently support a weight several times greater than the mass of the unit itself. To attach them, it is better to use long anchors with a diameter of 20 mm.
Mounting the evaporator and installing communications
Before installing it, you need to mark the mounting locations. Check them horizontally and vertically using a level. After this, the work is performed in the following order:
- Holes are drilled according to the markings and anchors are inserted.
- The mounting plate is secured with screws;
- In accordance with the position of the block, a hole is punched for communications (50 - 80 mm) with a slight slope outward for drainage.
- A waterproofing cup with a tube is mounted in the holes.
- a check is made to ensure that the wire is connected correctly to the terminals in accordance with the diagram.
- Tubes with thermal insulation made of flex and drainage are connected to the corresponding pipes.
- If it is necessary to lengthen the edges of the tubes with the nuts on, they are first flared.
- Using electrical tape, a compact bundle (route) is formed from tubes, drainage and wires, which is passed through the hole to the outside.
- The indoor unit is hung on a mounting plate.
Having completed the above work, you can install the external unit on the previously fixed brackets and lead the route to it. Excessive force should be avoided when bending the tubes to avoid deformation and wrinkles (the permissible bending radius is at least 100 mm). If the air conditioner hangs over the sidewalk, then it is necessary to take care of alternative options for discharging condensate indoors.
Sealing and vacuuming
It is impossible to install a split correctly without sealing and vacuuming the communications. The connections are sealed using a soap solution and a regular bicycle pump. The solution is applied to the connections and the tubes are pumped using a pump. When bubbles appear, carefully tighten the nuts by 1/8. The procedure is performed until the bubbling stops.
Then vacuuming is performed, which removes air, dust and remaining moisture. To do this:
- open several running ports;
- connect the vacuum pump through the service port;
- turn it on and wait for a pressure of 10 mmHg;
- close the low pressure lever;
- turn off the pump, return plugs to all open ports.
Testing
Before checking, fill the split with freon or refrigerant, depending on the requirements of the instructions, to the specified pressure. Testing is activated using a circuit breaker. At correct execution After installing the air conditioner, it will automatically enter test mode. Its result should be:
- normal flow of cold air;
- correct position of the blinds;
- condensate drainage through drainage.
If all the signs are present, the split can be used every day. Otherwise, you will need to contact specialists. In this case, the warranty for the air conditioner will be lost.
So it is still not recommended to install such an air conditioner yourself. It’s better to immediately weigh your strengths and think about inviting a specialist.
By controlling the microclimate of personal space, we create conditions that are optimal for rest, work, and activities. Installing a split system will allow you to set a favorable level of temperature and humidity for the most in a simple way. Agree, in the summer there are many days that require regulation of climatic parameters.
After reading the article we have proposed, you will learn all the details and subtleties of the installation of air conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematized information will be useful to both independent home craftsmen and customers of installer services to verify proper performance.
We describe the installation process in detail, listing the nuances of the location and fastening of the blocks. The materials required for installation and connection of the units are listed. Photo and video attachments are a valuable addition to the text, making it easier to perceive information.
When studying information on how to properly install a split system in a private house or apartment, you first need to choose the location of its parts.
To do this, it is necessary to take into account the direction of distribution of the flow of cold/hot air in the room, taking into account the basic technical requirements specified by the equipment manufacturer in the instructions.
The most common options for the location of the indoor unit of a split system are above the bed/sofa. Outdoor - usually taken outside and installed on an area near a window or on balcony slabs
There are certain rules, which must be taken into account when choosing the block placement point:
- the distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 15-20 cm, although some manufacturers indicate 20-30 cm in the instructions;
- from the side to the wall - at least 30 cm;
- to an obstacle that will impede the flow of outgoing air or disperse it - at least 150 cm.
For the external part of the split system, the location is chosen based on the load-bearing capacity of the walls. Installation is possible near a window, on slabs enclosing a loggia, or on a wall next to a balcony.
For those who live on the lower floors, the unit is installed above the window - as far as possible from passers-by.
Based on technical requirements to the wall of the ventilation facade, used as a platform for fixing the outdoor unit of the split system - the possible load capacity should be 2.5 times the weight of the installation unit
For multi-storey building, especially if the apartment is on the top floor, you will need to involve high-rise specialists or determine the installation point very close to the window, which will provide easy access during installation.
Determining the distance between blocks
Often the choice of location for equipment is regulated by the minimum and maximum distance between its parts. These indicators are mainly indicated by the manufacturer and depend on model range and characteristics.
Sometimes companies do not indicate the minimum length of the circuit between two units, so installation can be carried out arbitrarily.
The minimum distance between the blocks of the Daikin split system is 1.5-2.5 m, Panasonic - up to 3 m. However, if the blocks are located a meter apart, the length of the route must be at least 5 m (its excess is rolled up into a ring and hidden behind the block)
It is a little easier to figure out the maximum possible distance between two units. The standard indicator is 5 m. It is also possible to increase the length of the route, but in this case it is necessary to count on additional costs due to the need to refuel with freon.
Preparation for work
The decision to install a split system yourself usually comes after asking the specialists for prices. Incredibly high amounts for completing a job that takes 3 hours are justified by the presence of expensive tools and their wear and tear during operation. This is what makes up the bulk of the fee for the master’s services.
If the prices from split system installers are too high, it is worth installing with my own hands, having thoroughly studied the technology of this type of work
If you look at the recommendations of equipment manufacturers, the instructions often indicate that preparatory work can be done on your own, but for installing pipelines, connecting to electrical network When carrying out the vacuum process, it is advisable to invite specialists with the appropriate tools.
Hardware Installation Tools
Execute self-installation cooling unit is possible, because Most of the tools are in the suitcase home handyman. An exception may be a vacuum pump, but it is not necessary to buy one - it will be possible to make such a unit from old parts.
Some teams of craftsmen do not even use this equipment when laying a route up to 6 m long.
If at self-installation air conditioner could not find the vacuum pump, alternative option may serve powerful compressor from an old refrigerator or aquarium blower
During installation important aspect is to maintain the horizontal arrangement of block systems. In connection with these requirements, each stage of work must be accompanied by a control check at the construction level.
If a tool is not available, you can rent it at a hardware store.
You will need to prepare the following equipment in advance:
- Hammer. It is used to make holes in the façade through which a route will be laid, connecting the external and internal blocks.
- Drill with a set of drills. Used for mounting fasteners.
- Pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes.
- A device for removing burrs after cutting pipes. You can use a reamer, a file and sandpaper.
- Copper pipe roller.
Some people believe that using a reamer does not make sense, especially if the new one does not leave burrs and dents, but in vain.
Only after manipulations with the chamfer remover can the edge of the flared tube be pressed as tightly as possible with the nut, and accordingly, freon leakage is unlikely.
The operation of a device for flaring copper pipes is carried out by deforming the tube according to a selected pattern, as a result of which a cone is formed. At the same time, the original wall thickness and circular cross-section are preserved
According to technical installation rules, it is necessary to have vacuum pump- sealing of the air conditioning system is performed with this equipment. After filling the route with refrigerant, the evacuation process is carried out.
Purchasing the necessary materials
You will need quite a lot of components, but all of them are easily available in any specialized store. Do not forget that materials must be of the highest quality and selected exclusively for a device that is functionally designed for cold weather.
It is necessary to purchase a wire to supply power and connect the units. The required parameters are always indicated in the passport or equipment installation instructions.
The standard is a four-core power cable with a cross-sectional area of 2 mm 2 or 2.5 mm 2. The length is selected based on the distance of the route, taking into account a small margin.
You will also need to prepare seamless pipes thick-walled type soft copper, intended for cooling devices. Pipes are selected with smaller and larger diameters. More specific specifications are listed in the user manual.
The length is equal to the length of the route plus an additional margin of up to 30 cm. During the transportation of tubes, their edges must be sealed to protect from dust settling inside the product.
The pipes are selected exclusively for the cooling system; their soft copper alloy lends itself well to flaring and ensures proper tightness
Foamed rubber insulation is used to insulate pipes. They sell it in 2 m lengths. To implement thermal insulation measures, you will need a length equal to the length of the route. Synthetic insulation is used on two pipe diameters.
As a drainage tube, experts recommend installing a corrugated hose equipped with a plastic spiral inside. You can also use an alternative part - a polypropylene tube. Its length is equal to the length of the track with an additional 80 cm.
You will also need two L-shaped brackets to secure the unit from the outside. The suitable size of the parts is determined by its dimensions, and the safety margin for the load-bearing load should exceed its weight by 5 times. This increase in the maximum permissible stress of the part is required to compensate for wind and snow loads.
It is better to buy these components from a company that sells spare parts for household split systems.
After purchasing a bracket for attaching the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, you cannot make additional holes in it, because this significantly reduces the safety factor of the part
The following fastening parts are used: anchors, dowels and bolts. Their number, type and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and mounting plate intended for the indoor unit.
The type of walls where the outer part of the system is to be installed also matters. To camouflage the laid communication line, you will need a plastic box of standard dimensions 60*80 cm.
Installation procedure for split system
Installing an air conditioning system yourself is a very real task, however, there are many nuances in the work and they relate to certain models, so the installation process may have some differences. To study all the requirements, you must first read the instructions for the purchased equipment model.
Stage #1 – installation of outdoor and indoor units
The indoor unit must be installed first. Having decided on its location, the area for the mounting card is marked on the wall. After drilling out the gaps, plastic plugs for the dowels are inserted, the card is hung and secured with dowels.
The most careful fastening should be done in the lower part of the plate, because in this area there are latches that hold the block
After installing the cassette, using a building level, the strict horizontal positioning of the future block is measured. In case of any discrepancy, all completed work will need to be redone.
At this stage, preparatory work for laying the routes will take place. First, the lines of its location are calculated. Then a hole is drilled in the facade wall, taking into account the required slope of more than 1/100.
A hole with a diameter of 5 cm is also drilled with a slope, and the angle of inclination can be increased in comparison with the route. Thus, the condensate formed will better leave the system.
When choosing a back-to-back installation of units, you need to check the hole intended to accommodate the power cable. To do this, you need to check the location of the power ports on the units.
And now it’s time to install the outdoor unit. If we are talking about a multi-story building, then you will need special equipment for high-altitude work.
As in the first case, the block must be strictly horizontal, so a level is also used at the marking stage.
When placing the outdoor unit, it is necessary to take into account the limitation regarding its slope - the maximum permissible slope angle is 45°
When installing the fasteners, each existing hole must be filled with anchor bolts (standard diameter 10*100 mm), regardless of their number. Afterwards, the outdoor block is installed and also fixed with fasteners.
Stage #2 – laying a communication line
Using an electrical wire and two copper tubes, the outdoor and indoor units are connected. Additionally, through the wall there will be laid drainage system, responsible for removing condensate. These elements must be correctly selected, connected, laid and secured.
First, you should prepare the copper tubes by cutting them to the required length using a pipe cutter and treating the edges with a reamer to remove burrs and dents after the cutting procedure.
It is not recommended to use other tools, such as a file. After its use, metal shavings get inside the tube, which will circulate throughout the system and ultimately lead to failure of the compressor.
To pass copper tubes through a wall, their edges must be insulated with a plug to protect them from dust.
Thermal insulation of the tubes is carried out by placing polyurethane foam hoses on them. You cannot choose foam rubber as a sealant - it has a short service life. Having completed the thermal insulation measures, all joining areas of the material are tightly taped with metallized tape.
Now it’s time to lay the drainage and cable. Each wire must be equipped with a special tip. They are installed on conductors cleared of insulating material and crimped with pliers.
The finished cable is connected to the air conditioner according to the diagram given in the manual for the device.
On both blocks, in an area located slightly above the ports, there is a removable plate designed for connecting copper pipes. Under it there are electrical connectors for the cable.
The drainage tube is connected to a special outlet on the block indoors and is discharged through a hole in the wall. The tube must be long enough and end at least 60 cm from the wall.
According to the rules, its installation is carried out at an angle towards the exit. Fixation with clamps is required every meter of length to eliminate sagging and prevent condensation accumulation.
Stage #3 – connecting system units
Communications carried out through the wall are connected to the corresponding ports. It's important to remember that total length The drainage pipeline cannot be more than 20 m long. Copper pipes are laid in a loop method to catch oil, which is contained in small quantities in freon.
Drainage can be diverted in two ways: take it to the sewer or to the street. The first method is technically correct, but due to the complexity of reproduction it is not widely used.
When laying the drainage pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns; sagging is also not allowed - condensation will accumulate in these areas
At the bottom of the internal block of the system there is a tube with a plastic tip. A corrugated hose is put on it and tightened at the connection with a clamp.
A similar procedure is performed for the outside of the device, but many people ignore it. If instead of a hose you use polymer pipe, the appropriate adapter is selected. It is used to connect the output of the unit and the tube.
To connect copper pipes, you first need to lay them along the wall using a pipe bender. If such a tool is not available, then we suggest that you read the article, which describes in detail how to bend a pipe without special equipment. Read more - read.
The tubes must be given the necessary slope without kinks or sharp creases. First of all, they are connected to the unit indoors. To do this, loosen the nuts on the corresponding ports.
When unwinding, a characteristic hissing sound of escaping nitrogen will be heard. It is pumped in at the time of production to eliminate oxidation of parts. After lowering it, you need to remove the plugs and completely unscrew the nut. Next, the rolling procedure is performed.
During the flaring process, the pipe is held with the hole down to prevent metal shavings from entering the system
The edges of the pipes in a 5 cm area are leveled. Then flaring is carried out to ensure the connection between the inlet and outlet of the blocks. It will work out that way closed system circulation. Correct installation plays an important role in achieving maximum tightness during the movement of freon.
The flared edge of the pipe is connected to the required outlet and secured with a nut. It is prohibited to use any additional accessories– sealants, gaskets, etc. The copper tubes used provide the necessary sealing.
When connecting copper tubes, it is necessary to apply a force of 60 kg, only then will the copper clamp the fitting monolithically, and the contact will be sealed
Similar actions are performed with all four ports. After the connection, the last stage of installing the air conditioning system follows - eliminating air and moisture, as well as possible argon residues that may have accumulated during the installation process.
Stage #4 - vacuuming the system
During the installation work Air gets into the air conditioner pipes and if it is not removed, it will end up in the air conditioning system. The result is increased load on the compressor and, accordingly, its rapid heating.
Also, water particles negatively affect all parts. Freon contains a proportion of lubricating oil; its hygroscopic consistency becomes less effective when in contact with water. As a result, component wear will accelerate.
To remove air, two methods can be used: a vacuum pump or a small amount of freon liquid, which is drained from a unit located outside. When manufacturing an outdoor unit, manufacturers with a slight surplus.
The “spray” method is repeated several times, with the second attempt being made with the top valve. If the length of the route is 2-3 m, the procedure is carried out 3 times, with a four-meter length - 2 times
An alternative to an expensive vacuum pump is to release excess freon from the outdoor unit system. To do this, unscrew the plugs on its valves. It is necessary to work with a lower port of larger diameter. Under its cover there is a hexagonal connector. Based on its parameters, the appropriate key is selected.
Using a suitable key, turn the valve 90° and after a second return it to its previous position. Thus, a small amount of freon enters the system and increased pressure is created. By pressing your finger for a second on the spool located on the same port, excess freon and gases are released from the system.
After complete removal of air, the spool outlet is tightened with a plug, and the valves are fully opened and freon enters the split system. To check the tightness of the connections, they are coated with soap foam.
It is worth remembering that with independent, insignificant factors do not exist. And everything that was done incorrectly, for example, rolling pipes without cleaning the edges, or an insufficiently fixed connection, ultimately leads to rapid wear of the cooling system components. Therefore, during the installation process you need to be extremely careful with all the details.
If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in the installation of split systems, please share it with our readers. Perhaps you know some subtleties that we did not mention in this material? Leave your comments and ask questions in the block below.
