Some gardeners argue that a regular variety cannot be forced to bear fruit 3-4 or more times a year, since the plant is guided by the length of daylight hours and has a biological clock like animals. But if you try to grow it, you get a much smaller harvest and a maximum of 2 times a year. In fact, everything is far from true. Each plant has its own time of formation of generative buds, from which fruits are then formed. An ordinary variety is genetically “encoded” for 1 harvest and it can be either in mid-summer or winter, depending on its growing conditions.
Fortunately, modern breeding areas have developed special remontant varieties in which the periodicity of the formation of generative buds is completely absent. That is, the main thing is to create optimal conditions for the development of the fetus, and there is no difference when this happens. This can be in summer, spring or any other time every 2-3 months. Getting 5 harvests within a year will not be difficult. Remontant varieties They bloom constantly, but greatly deplete the soil, so very serious care for the plant is required.
Let's consider the best varieties, which are acclimatized on the territory of the Russian Federation.
- Queen Elizabeth 2. An excellent variety, it has become famous due to its high yield - one bush grows approximately 5 kg of berries in one harvest and this is not a record! Per hectare, subject to excellent care, you can get up to 19-25 tons, which is why Queen Elizabeth 2 is the best option for those gardeners who are seriously involved in growing berries for sale. The weight of one fruit can reach 150-200 grams, average berries - 60-80 grams. Has very sweet taste. The remontant variety allows you to get up to 4-5 harvests per year at good fertilizer soil and constant watering. Resistant to powdery mildew and fungal diseases - they almost never appear on the stem when grown in greenhouses.
- San Andreas. Californian remontant variety, but has been acclimatized by Russian breeders for more than 15 years, recommended for industrial use. High density berries allows them to be transported without problems to any distance and stored in basement. From one bush you can collect up to 2 kg, from a hectare - up to 10 tons. Resistant to fungal diseases, especially brown spot. The fruits have a very sweet taste.
- Temptation. One of the best remontant hybrids, which is characterized by high productivity and large sizes fruits From one bush you can collect up to 1500 grams, each of which will be at least 60 grams. Thus, with good watering and constant fertilization of the soil with organic matter, you can get up to 50 tons per hectare. It is highly decorative, the inflorescences are bright, the bushes are not spreading. Harvesting can be done within 2 months after planting a new bush in the soil; full maturity of the bush occurs within a year.
- Lyubava. If you are counting on year-round cultivation of strawberries in a greenhouse, then you should pay attention to this variety. Despite the small size of the berries (30-45 grams), the yield reaches 2 kg per bush and up to 250 c/ha, since the planting density is relatively high. It is very sweet, has an excellent presentation and smell. Even young bushes bear fruit, and they begin to bloom immediately after taking root. The remontant variety practically does not require pollination; it is enough for it that the bushes are in close proximity. Another advantage of this plant is that it forms very few tendrils, usually no more than 7 pieces. This way, you don’t have to constantly care for the plants and pick them to increase yield.
These were the most popular remontant varieties, which are very easy to grow in a greenhouse. They practically do not react to the length of daylight hours and are content with artificial lighting. Their unpretentiousness to diseases makes them ideal material for planting in greenhouses where there will be high relative humidity.
Strawberries all year round - a practical guide to planting bushes
The most important part is planting the plant. Not only the future productivity of your plot will depend on it, but also the plant’s susceptibility to diseases, the number of waves of fruiting, the speed of fruit ripening and much more. Today there are many methods, but let’s look at some of the most popular planting methods.
Growing strawberries in pots . The advantage of this method is the high organization of the site - you can make rows of the correct shape, place pots in several tiers (usually 5-6 of them), and also organize it relatively different varieties and precocity. There is perhaps only one drawback - the relative high cost. Make metal frames and place ceramic or plastic pots will be very expensive, costs can be up to 1000 rubles per 1 square meter area of the greenhouse and this does not take into account watering. This is the so-called “Dutch technology”, which involves a minimum cost of space and a maximum yield per square meter (in this case, even cubic).
Cultivating an area with pots is also very convenient: the fruits hang down and are always clean, watering is easy and you can get by with a regular irrigation system, walking and harvesting is convenient, since there is nothing on the floor, and a person moves freely around the area. Productivity increases 4-5 times due to the high planting density, but if the plant gets sick with something, especially fungal diseases, the disease will spread throughout the entire area in a matter of days.
Growing in boxes. This is the most common technology for growing strawberries. all year round on the territory of Russia. It provides for the construction wooden boxes different shapes(75x25x25, 50x25x25, 150x30x25 and other sizes) in which strawberries are planted. It is relatively easy to care for, since the area is well organized, the floor is again free, and you can divide the area into different ripening periods and varieties. Disadvantage - there will be a small harvest per unit area, since the plants are placed too “spreading out”. Advantages - you can make the boxes yourself, so the costs will be minimal, there is no need to build an expensive metal frame.
Growing on the floor. An option when seedlings are planted directly into the soil. The advantage of this method is its low cost, since there are no costs for arranging the place. 10 minutes with a shovel or hoe - and the area is ready to receive seedlings. There are, of course, a lot of shortcomings, otherwise no one would have managed to make boxes, pots, metal structures and other devices. The first drawback is the lack of free space. This is similar to growing strawberries in open ground– a few weeks after the start of the growing season, it is no longer possible to walk through the area, as everything is overgrown with tendrils. A lot of effort goes into removing them. Planting density is 10-15 bushes per square meter, no more, while Dutch technology allows you to plant up to 60-90 bushes. Consequently, the yield indicator will also suffer.
Growing in bags . This method is for those who want to learn how to grow strawberries in winter using Dutch technology, but at Russian costs. Craftsmen were able to reduce the price of pots and shelves by hundreds of times, replacing them with an ordinary polypropylene bag, which is hung on a rope or simply laid down. Inside the bag there is fertile soil, holes of 5-8 centimeters are cut and seedlings are planted. As a result, we have hanging “pots”, huge space savings in the greenhouse and all the other advantages of Dutch technology. For watering, you can use regular sprayers or a hand watering can. The only difficulty is securing the bag so that it does not swing. You will have to walk very carefully or make special wire stretchers between adjacent “pots”.
What soil is needed for year-round growing of berries?
Particular attention should be paid to the soil. It is its quality that will determine how quickly the next wave of harvest is formed. To do this, you need to remember just a few rules for creating soil. Let's take a closer look at them.
- There must be drainage. Regardless of where you grow it, it is necessary that moisture entering the soil quickly passes through the root system and does not linger in it. In this case, oxygen will better flow to the roots, and the plant itself will develop faster. This will also keep the soil loose, which is important when growing berry crops. To prepare the drainage, we need crushed stone or gravel, which must be placed at the very bottom of the pot, box, bed or bag. As a rule, it occupies no more than 25% of the volume of the entire soil.
- Mix fertile soil with sand. At least 25% should be sand so that the soil is very loose. This will increase the gas exchange of the root system, as a result - the bushes will grow much faster and form new berries. It is best to use coarse sand, which is mixed with soil and poured immediately onto drainage crushed stone or gravel.
- The soil must contain peat, organic fertilizer and other useful substances, which will help the plant start and quickly move into the formation stage generative organs. If the soil is poor quality, the bushes will be “dwarf” for a month and may not grow at all to the size we need. The number and size of fruits will also be affected.
- High quality fertilizer. Without it, nothing will grow - this is clear even to a beginner. If you grow remontant varieties, you need to double the dose of fertilizers, since these varieties pull out every last gram from the ground and after them the soil becomes deserted. The constant addition of nitrogen and ammonia fertilizers should be your rule. When planting bushes, it is necessary to add a lot of organic components, as well as nitrogen, so that root system It took root as quickly as possible and began to release nutrients to the stem. Immediately after the plant takes root in a new place, you need to add superphosphate and ammonium nitrate - they will help gain vegetative mass and grow the bush to its maximum size. Then feed with orthophosphorus fertilizers - they will help increase the size of the fruits and collect a maximum of one bush.
If you do everything correctly, and the soil is not only perfectly composed, but also saturated with minerals and macroelements, then you can count on a solid harvest and high quality berries!
How to grow strawberries all year round - how to properly organize your plot
If you have already dealt with this crop, then most likely you can imagine how many problems growing strawberries all year round can bring you. During the fruiting period (and you will have it almost constantly), you will need to perform many operations simultaneously. Watering plants, fertilizing, trimming tendrils, harvesting, spraying against fungus, and the like will fall on you at once, and it will not be possible to combine some operations. For example, you cannot spray immediately before picking berries, even if these preparations are practically harmless to human health.
The first mistake a young gardener makes is planting several remontant varieties at the same time. Experienced specialists plant strawberries so that the harvest time is different. Even if it coincides, then you can artificially prolong it or speed it up with the help of watering, daylight hours ( artificial lighting), as well as fertilizers.
Automated watering is a significant saving of your free time. As you know, watering berries takes a lot of effort, since the area is large, and they have to be sprayed very often. In order not to torment yourself with work and your plants with drought, it is best to immediately stock up on a PVC hose and several rotary sprayers. They can be installed under the roof of the greenhouse and adjusted so that water reaches all corners of the greenhouse. Thus, all you have to do is connect the hose to the water supply and turn on the water supply. 5-8 minutes and not only the soil in the pots (bags, boxes, garden beds) will be wet, but also the leaves! And this will significantly increase the productivity of the plant.
Watering will help solve the fertilizer problem. How? Just use urea and other liquid preparations that can be mixed into water and sprayed onto the entire room at once! Remember that you cannot stay indoors or enter it 3-4 hours after the end of the procedure, as the substances can be hazardous to human health. Use sprayers if necessary!
Strawberries in winter are not a myth, but a reality! All you need to implement this project is a greenhouse, some money for seedlings and a great desire to get 5 harvests a year!
Strawberries are perhaps the favorite among other berry crops. It has very high taste qualities and therefore appeals to both children and adults.
Grow strawberries in your garden or personal plot sometimes quite problematic - the berry requires special care. Those who have decided to take this step should study the characteristics of this culture in advance. In this article we will talk about the timing of berry ripening. They usually depend on the variety chosen, as well as on the area in which they grow.
Ripening time for remontant varieties of strawberries
It must be said that there are two types of strawberries: single fruiting (short daylight hours - SDS) and multiple fruiting (remontant). The latter variety, for obvious reasons, is gaining popularity every year. This is quite understandable, because the harvest is an order of magnitude greater. So, let's talk about the main features of this type.
Remontant strawberries differ from ordinary ones in that they have practically no tendrils. In addition, it bears fruit and, accordingly, ripens much earlier. The main feature is repeated fruiting. It happens in waves. For example, the first harvest can be harvested in June, the second in early July, and the third, if possible, in mid-August.
As for the varieties of this variety, there are a lot of them today. Among the most popular are the following varieties: “Albion”, “Bordurello”, “Vima Rina”, “Geneva”, “Temptation”, “Queen II”, “Lubava”, “Maara Des Bois”, “Inexhaustible”, “Ostara” ", "Diva", "Referenta", "Superfection", "Tristar", "Flora", "Hummi Gento", "Charlotte", "Evie", etc.
Let’s add one more thing – large fruit. The size of one berry can reach 50-75 g.
When do ordinary strawberries ripen?
KSD strawberries produce a harvest only once a year. It differs from the remontant variety by its smaller weight of fruits (25-30 g) and the presence of more developed whiskers.
Single-fruiting strawberries are divided into four groups: early, mid-early, middle, and also. Each group certainly has its favorites.
Early varieties of strawberries
Mid-early strawberry varieties
Medium varieties of strawberries
Late varieties of strawberries
There are not so many late varieties of strawberries. Here's the main list:
How to speed up the ripening of strawberries
It is noteworthy that the ripening period of strawberries can be accelerated. There are two simple ways to do this. The essence of the first is the use of covering material. This method allows you to harvest a week earlier.
There is another way - planting this crop in a greenhouse. Both the first and second methods are equally effective. Which one to use is up to the gardener to decide. In any case, to get a good harvest, you must not forget about proper care for this culture.
Video about Florence strawberries
During berry ripening, routine weeding is very important. After all, weeds not only take away nutrition from the fruits, but also create shadow and stuffiness. As a result, the bushes and fruits become sick. Moreover, many weeds can infect strawberries with dangerous viruses and diseased plants will not be able to bear fruit at all.
If you have not yet mulched your strawberry beds with straw, chopped bark or strips of special film, you can correct this omission. Plants will feel comfortable in mulched beds, and they will thank you with large, dense and clean fruits.
But strawberries do not need additional watering and fertilizing during fruiting.
Think about varieties
Excellent care can increase the yield, but only briefly prolongs its arrival. You can truly extend the pleasure only if you have late and remontant strawberries.
Mid-late and late varieties. The harvest ripens 1-2 weeks later than the main strawberry “wave”. At the same time, the berries of late varieties are usually dense and behave well during transportation and processing. For an ordinary family, it is convenient if only a small part of the plantation is occupied by late varieties, and mostly mid-season strawberries grow there.
Remontant varieties large-fruited strawberries produce several waves of harvest over the summer. Although this is a very attractive quality, you should not give the entire bed to strawberries of this type: experts recommend occupying no more than a third of the allotted area. These berries have their own characteristics. They reach condition and reveal their aroma and taste not immediately after reddening, but after another 2-3 days.
Late varieties: Alpha, Bereginya, Kubata, Rusich, Tarda, Troitskaya.
Repairers: Garland, Elizabeth 2 and Lyubava.
Strawberries are photophilous. Strawberries are moisture-loving. Strawberries are responsive to fertile soil. Strawberries grow well for no more than 5 years in one place.
In everyday life, large-fruited garden strawberries are often called strawberries. Most varieties of strawberries (as opposed to wild strawberries) are dioecious - the male (staminate) and female (pistillate) flowers are located on different plants.
Strawberry fruits have strong aroma and sweeter than strawberries. The bushes are taller than strawberries, the leaves are ribbed, the flower stalks are higher than the leaves. Strawberry plants are more winter-hardy and less drought-resistant than strawberry plants.
Strawberries contain a lot of sugars, acids, mineral salts and vitamin C. They have medicinal properties, especially with anemia and stomach diseases.
Strawberries are fast-growing crops. Already in the second year after planting it gives high yields. By using summer planting dates for strawberries, you can get good harvests the next year after planting. Strawberries ripen in June, that is, when other fruits and berries are not yet available.
In addition to varieties of ordinary garden strawberries, in which the fruiting period lasts several weeks, there are remontant varieties. They bear fruit continuously for a long time - from the end of June until almost autumn. This is explained by the fact that the period of fruit bud formation in remontant varieties is greatly extended, and by the fact that the development cycle of peduncle primordia passes quickly under conditions of high summer temperatures. Remontant varieties bear fruit both on the main bushes and on the runners. 
Strawberries are photophilous, but can grow and bear fruit in partial shade. In shaded areas, strawberries wake up 1-2 weeks later, begin to bear fruit later and their berries are less sweet than berries grown in the sun.
Strawberries are moisture-loving. Especially in the first half of summer (the period of flowering and budding). The berry harvest will depend on the quality of watering.
Strawberries grow well in any type of soil, but medium loamy soils are best for them.
Sandy and clay soils should be improved by applying high doses of organic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers on sandy soils they are applied systematically, as they are quickly washed out into the lower layers of the soil, where there are no strawberry roots. Good results on such soils, the application of peat helps.
After 4-5 years of growing strawberries in one place, their yields drop sharply due to the aging of the root system, the area is heavily overgrown with weeds, strawberry diseases and pests accumulate in the soil, so after strawberries the area is occupied by other crops for 2-3 years.
The first year is planting strawberries.
Choosing a place to plant strawberries.
The site should be flat or with a slight slope (no more than 5°). The best slopes are southern and western (warmer). On such slopes, strawberries ripen faster. The site on the north side was protected by buildings, trees or bushes.
It is impossible to allocate too much for strawberries damp areas, depressions and too high and dry places. Groundwater should lie at a depth of at least 80-100 cm.
first year strawberry
Strawberries on summer cottage planted in an open sunny place. It is permissible to plant in the rows of a young garden (up to 8 years old) at a distance of 1 m from the trunk.
In areas overgrown with wheatgrass, planting strawberries is possible only after clearing the field of wheatgrass. Areas infested with wheatgrass are sprayed in advance (in the fall) and the wheatgrass is removed. In the spring, this area can be occupied by early potatoes, root crops and other crops, and strawberries can be planted in the fall.
Preparing the site for planting strawberries.
After harvesting the previous crop, the soil must be dug up. The soil must settle well before planting, so the soil must be prepared in advance. For spring planting of strawberries, the site is dug up in the fall, for autumn planting - a month before planting. Otherwise, when the ground settles, the roots of planted plants may be exposed. 
Before planting, the soil must be carefully divided - leveled with a rake, since planting strawberries on an uneven surface leads to sparseness of the plantings.
Strawberry planting time.
It is better to plant strawberries in late summer - early autumn (August-early September) or early spring (early May). In the fall, it is advisable to complete planting before September 15 so that the planted strawberries can take root before the onset of cold weather, since the root system does not grow at temperatures below 15°C.
Strawberries planted in the spring and strawberries planted in the fall produce their first normal harvest in the summer of next year. That is, strawberries planted in the fall begin to bear fruit faster.
It is better to plant strawberries in cloudy, rainy weather. It is not planted in hot weather. If the planting date is late and the weather is dry, then planting should be done as early as possible in the morning and afternoon. 
On slopes, strawberries are planted across the slope, since this arrangement better retains melt and rainwater.
If planting strawberries is planned on plots of land with stagnant water, then the strawberries are planted on ridges to avoid getting wet. It is better to place the ridges from north to south so that the tops of the ridges dry out less. The width of the ridge is 60-70 cm. Strawberries are planted along the ridge at a distance of 30 cm row from row and 15-20 cm in a row. Paths 35-40 cm wide are left between the ridges.
If the place is low, but the water does not stagnate, strawberries are planted without beds, since a lot of labor is spent on making beds, beds are more difficult to process, they dry out quickly, so frequent watering is necessary. The harvest on the ridges is smaller.
If available good seedlings strawberries, then it is allowed to plant strawberries in mid-summer (mid-July - early August). Strawberries should be planted in summer in cloudy, rainy weather.
Laying out an area for planting strawberries.
The direction of the rows is marked with a marker or cord. The rows are usually directed along the long side of the plot (if the plot is flat) or along the row spacing. Placed along the cord wooden slats(approximately 2 m long), on which marks are made every 15-20 cm, indicating the landing site.
When choosing a planting method, it is necessary to take into account the location of the area allocated for strawberries.
If the area is open, then a more dense planting is used; in more shaded areas, excessive thickening should be avoided.
The standard planting method is single-line (in a row 15-20 cm, between rows 70 cm).
Planting density also depends on the variety: heavily leafy varieties should be planted 20 cm apart in a row, less leafy varieties should be planted 10-15 cm apart.
Preparing strawberry seedlings for planting.
Seedlings are considered good if the plant has at least 3 developed leaves on short petioles, a strong growing point and a well-developed root lobe with a length of at least 6-7 cm. 
It is not advisable to take seedlings that are very elongated and with weak roots for planting, since such plants take root and develop worse.
From quality planting material The survival rate of strawberries, their further development and the size of the harvest depend. In an area planted with weak seedlings, many plants fall out (die), the remaining ones develop poorly and become more overgrown with weeds. Such a plot requires additional large costs for weeding and replanting and, despite this, produces a low yield.
Seedlings are taken from pure-grade plantings of any life span of mother bushes.
The seedlings are dug up with a bayonet; when harvesting, the vines connecting the rosettes to the adult bushes are cut off. Among the dug up plants, seedlings suitable for planting are selected. 
The best results are obtained by planting freshly harvested seedlings. If you cannot plant seedlings right away, then you need to dig them in right away and water them well. The roots of seedlings must be protected from the sun and wind at all times; if they are a little dry, they need to be placed in water before planting. If the roots dry out significantly, the seedlings should be placed in water for 1-2 days.
It is good to transport seedlings in plastic bags, after thoroughly moistening them with water and pouring about 30% water into the bag. It can also be transported in boxes or baskets covered with paper or burlap on top. In this case, the roots must be wrapped in damp burlap so as not to dry them out.
Trimming strawberry seedlings before planting.
Very long roots of seedlings should be shortened slightly before planting (up to 6-7 cm), since long roots are difficult to straighten and they will bend, which has a bad effect on the growth and development of plants.
If the weather is hot, dry, you should prune to reduce evaporation. lower leaves at the seedlings, leaving one or two top leaves near the core.
Transplanting.
At the planting site, a hole is made with a bayonet of such a size that the root system of the seedlings can freely fit in it. With your left hand, place the strawberry bush against the vertical wall of the hole so that the base of the apical bud (growth point) is flush with the ground. Right hand straighten the roots so that they do not bend and cover them with soil up to about half of the hole, pressing the soil tightly to the bottom of the roots. Then fill the entire hole and once again compact the soil around the plants with both hands.
Plants are planted incorrectly if:
1) the growth point is buried in the ground - deep planting;
2) the upper part of the roots is above the soil surface (the roots are exposed) - shallow planting.
Deep planting can lead to large falls, since the covered growing points in most cases rot out. After planting and watering, the covered growing points must be carefully dug out (freed from the ground). If the roots of strawberries are exposed, it is necessary to sprinkle them with earth, since otherwise shallow planting will lead to the death of the bush from freezing in winter or drying out in summer. Good results are obtained by filling the exposed roots with peat.
Immediately after planting, the plant is watered well (approximately 0.5-0.7 liters of water per plant). Watering helps the soil adhere more closely to the roots. It is necessary to water with a weak stream, since a strong stream can knock the planted plant out of the ground. It is good to water from a watering can, after removing the strainer. In dry weather, watering should be done every other day for 7-10 days until the plants take root. Water consumption is increased to 1 liter.
In cloudy, rainy weather, you can get by with just one watering when planting.
After planting, the soil around the plants must be mulched (peat, sawdust, dry grass, straw). Mulch is placed in strips on both sides of the row, without covering the plants. If there is no mulching material, then after watering the ground around the plants must be mulched with dry soil.
10-15 days after planting, the survival rate of the strawberries is checked and new plants are planted in the places of the dead ones.
When late autumn planting replanting is done in the spring. Correct plants planted deep or shallow.
Approximately 3-4 weeks after planting (when weeds appear and the soil is compacted), the soil in the rows and between rows is loosened. It is necessary to loosen the rows very carefully - with a bayonet to a depth of 3-4 cm, so as not to damage the planted plants.
The second year is the first harvest and work with the mustache.
In the spring, the strawberry itself will let you know that it is time to bring it out of its dormant state. Young green shoots will begin to emerge through the fallen leaves. This is a signal that it is time to remove the shelter. Carefully remove the covering material. Dry and yellowed leaves on bushes are also removed.
The causative agents of many diseases (white spot, gray rot and others) and many pests (strawberry leaf beetle, fleas) overwinter on dry and dead leaves. Therefore, in the spring, as soon as the dead leaves dry out, they must be removed from the area and burned.
Old leaves that remain green after winter should not be removed, as they nourish the plant in early spring and protect flower buds from spring frosts.
When the soil dries out, after removing the leaves, the soil must be loosened in order to preserve as much moisture as possible between the rows. Further, before the formation of the ovary, caring for the strawberry consists of systematic watering and loosening the soil.
strawberries of the second year of planting
From the moment the ovary forms, it is good to mulch the rows with any available material (peat, straw, sawdust). This will maximally protect the soil from drying out during the fruiting period, since when the crop ripens, abundant and frequent watering will contribute to the rotting of ripe berries. Mulch will also prevent contamination of the berries when they bend to the ground.
The next stage is harvesting. When harvesting, it is good to have two containers, one for good berries, the second for rotten, damaged, dry ones (so as not to breed pathogenic flora in the berry garden), which are then taken away from the site and destroyed.
propagation of strawberries by mustache
After fruiting, strawberries enter into an active reproduction process; they begin to intensively throw out mustaches. Since the strawberries are young, the plantings in the rows are compacted. Periodically (1-2 times a week) the rows are walked around, directing the whiskers from the paths into the strawberry rows. 
During the summer period, compaction should lead to the fact that for one adult bush (planted last year), 3-5 young bushes from guided tendrils should be additionally rooted and planted, no more. Otherwise, plantings that are too dense will promote reproduction various diseases, and next year’s harvest will be small.
Excess and weak mustaches are removed throughout the summer.
For the winter, strawberries are covered with fallen leaves, straw, or other material.
The third, fourth year - maximum yields.
Caring for strawberries in the 3rd and 4th years of existence consists of removing all tendrils, hilling and (if necessary) cutting off the foliage at the end of summer.
In the spring, the rows are freed from covering material, all brown and yellow leaves from the bushes, loosen the aisles. During flowering, the rows are mulched. After harvesting, during the first post-harvest loosening, the strawberry bushes are hilled.
three-year-old strawberry plant with mulched row spacing
Starting from the 3rd – 4th year of strawberry life, a mandatory measure in caring for plantings is the hilling of adventitious roots that form near the soil surface.
When hilling, make sure that the growing point is not covered with soil, this will lead to oppression of the plants. Hilling creates best conditions for the formation and growth of adventitious roots in the surface layers of the soil and ensures their placement in deeper layers - all this helps to increase the yield of strawberries. 
For the winter, strawberries are covered with fallen leaves, straw or other covering material.
The fifth year is the planting of new strawberries, rejuvenation of the old ones.
Strawberries grow well in one place for 4-5 years. Next, the root system of the bushes ages and dies. New (adventitious) roots that form near the apical buds above the soil surface fall into unfavorable conditions(they are located almost at ground level, too high for normal development and nutrition of the bush) and cannot replace old roots.
five year old strawberry
The berries of old bushes become smaller. Strawberry soil accumulates many strawberry pests and diseases. The bushes begin to hurt more and more often. Therefore, old strawberry plantings are removed and young ones are planted.
In the fifth year of life, the strawberry is allowed to bear fruit for the last time. Then the tendrils are rooted for planting material of a new young strawberry. In the fall, the old strawberries are removed.
bayonet-and-scoop-landing tool
In the spring, strawberries of the 5th year of life are freed from covering material, all brown and yellow leaves are removed from the bushes, and the row spacing is loosened. Then, during flowering, the rows are mulched. After harvesting, the bushes are earthed up and the tendrils for planting material for the future strawberry plant begin to take root. Until the end of summer, the strawberries are kept moist, weeds are periodically removed and the soil is loosened in order to obtain high-quality strawberry seedlings.
Young rooted rosettes are planted in a new location in August-September. After this, the old strawberry tree is dug up. Over the next 2-3 years, strawberries are not planted on it.
ABOUT rejuvenation of strawberries (if it is not possible to plant new plantings).
Strawberry renewal is based on rejuvenating old plants by cutting off the aboveground part at soil level, but not deeper than 0.5 cm.
The above-ground part is cut off with a sharp shovel (if there are a lot of strawberries), which is placed almost horizontally, or cut off with pruning shears (if the strawberries are small). When rejuvenating, it is important that the plant is not uprooted (the strawberry rhizome should be left in the soil). New shoots are formed from dormant and lateral buds of the rhizome, from the base of which new adventitious roots grow. Thus, the entire plant is completely rejuvenated (renewed) - both the above-ground part and the root system.
seven-year-old strawberry mulched with sawdust
The new above-ground system, after rejuvenation under favorable weather conditions, begins to grow in about 10-15 days. Drought somewhat delays the regrowth of the aboveground part. In younger plants, the aboveground part recovers faster compared to older ones.
Strawberries should be rejuvenated immediately after fruiting. Cutting off the above-ground part during this period will ensure better yield of rejuvenated plants compared to a later period of rejuvenation. At the beginning of the growing season, the plant should not be rejuvenated due to the fact that rejuvenated plantings do not produce a normal harvest in a given year.
The above-ground part of rejuvenated plants branches more strongly, the number of new adventitious roots increases (by 40-60%). The roots of rejuvenated plants, approximately 4 months after cutting the aerial part, have more dense branching and are completely located in the soil, while the adventitious roots of non-rejuvenated plants are formed from the stem, in most cases at a height of 1-3 cm and, thus, have worse conditions for growth. 
The yield of rejuvenated plantings is significantly higher than that of old bushes, and the average weight of the fruit also increases.
Caring for rejuvenated plantings standard and consists of watering (if the soil is not moist enough), fertilizing and loosening the soil.
Repeated rejuvenation is carried out after 1-2 years.
Fertilizing strawberries.
For pre-planting digging of the soil, you need to add 3-4 kg of humus or compost, 30-40 g of superphosphate and 0.5 liters of wood ash per 1 m2.
After planting, the soil around each bush should be sprinkled with humus, compost or peat.
Next year, fertilizers may not be applied.
In the second year after planting strawberries (the first year of fruiting), you need to add humus or compost at 3-4 kg per 1 m2.
In the third year, in the spring, humus or compost is added at a rate of 2-3 kg per 1 linear meter of row.
In the 4th year, strawberries are not fertilized or given 1-2 nitrogen fertilizers of 5-10 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 linear meter of row. The plants are fed the first time in the spring, the second time after fruiting.
In the 5th year, no fertilizer is applied to strawberries.
In the 6th year, strawberries are usually not left, and if they are left, they are not fertilized.
Doses and timing of fertilizer application can be changed depending on the condition of the plants.
The strawberry harvest is a phenomenon expected by gardeners. Every day, lovers with a sweet tooth cross off another day on the calendar, waiting for the strawberries to ripen. In today’s article we will take a closer look at how many days after flowering strawberries ripen and answer popular questions about strawberries.
The fruiting period of strawberries depends on the selected variety. For example, remontant strawberries ripen all year round, but ordinary ones - depending on the climatic conditions growing region.
In general, about 8 weeks pass from planting to the ripening period. After flowering and before fruiting, strawberries ripen in 4-5 weeks. Pay attention to weather conditions and quality of care that affect fruiting. Additional stimulation of fruiting and protective treatments are necessary during this period.
How to speed up strawberry fruiting:
- Clear the garden bed of weeds.
- Loosen the area between the rows.
- 7 days before fruiting, feed with nitrogen.
- During the flowering period, fertilize with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
- Water regularly.
- Protect from birds and rodents.
- Shade from direct sunlight.
How many days after fruiting can strawberries be planted?
After the first triumphant harvest, gardeners can’t wait to plant again. The question arises: “How many days after harvest can strawberries be replanted?” Since remontant strawberries ripen regularly, we do not consider them. Other strawberry varieties require specific cycles. For example, you can grow strawberries in the same bed/territory after a 4-year break.
It is necessary to select a suitable soil mixture for growing berries. What soil mixture is suitable for strawberries: moderately heavy, loose soil.
How to fertilize what we have:
- Loamy soil can be fertilized.
- It is good to dilute peat soil with sand.
- Fertilize clay soil with nutrients and sand.
- Feed sandy soil with nutrients.
Methods for planting and propagating strawberries
After the first harvest, the question arises which planting method to use to grow strawberries. You can replant the berries with seeds, but you will still have to wait a long time. Other strawberry propagation methods:
- By layering
- Dividing the bush
By choosing one of the presented methods, you can significantly reduce the cost of effort, money and time for planting strawberries in the soil mixture.
How many days after planting will strawberries ripen? Ripening will occur approximately 20-22 days from the moment of planting - depending on weather conditions in the regions.
Which variety of strawberry to choose?
For successful fruiting, certain varieties of strawberries are selected. It is worth paying attention to the following:
- "Cardinal"
- "Ruby Pendant"
- "Totem"
- "Holiday"
The berries of these varieties ripen almost at the same time, so they can be planted together. The weight of one berry is from 30 to 60 g, the smallest ones are 15 g. You can use it in personal recipes, for sale and delight yourself and your family with a fresh harvest of strawberries.
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