Plum details. Cultivation, useful properties and variety selection. Growing vegetables in narrow beds Narrow beds organic farming

O.A. Telepov, a potato grower, shares his experience.

In July of this year, a visiting, “field” seminar of the Omsk club of potato growers took place at my site.

After inspecting the site and having a long conversation about my technologies and experiences, one of the authoritative members of the club asks the question: “Since you are using the Mittlider system for dividing the garden into narrow beds, then why do you ignore the recommendations to make wide aisles?”

I show everyone to my garden: “Look, the plants do not interfere with each other ...” It turns out - as if brushed aside ...

I was not too lazy to answer, everyone was just already tired - three hours in the sun! This is not the first time such a question has been asked, and certainly not the last.

Why did the aisles make the width equal to the width of the beds - 50 cm, and not more? Yes, just out of greed. Let's count. Harvest winter garlic this year is good - 3.2 kg per square meter of beds. This fact was easy to establish: the weight of all the heads of garlic was divided by the area of ​​​​the garden. Most often they think so. But there is trickery in this. Why do we not take into account the area of ​​the tracks when we calculate the yield?

3.2 kg per square meter of beds does not mean at all that the harvest per hundred square meters is 320 kg! My weaving is 100 meters of a bed (50 cm wide) plus 100 meters of a track (the same width). It really turns out that the yield from a given hundred square meters is the yield from 50 square meters (100 meters multiplied by 0.5 meters) of the ridge - 160 kg. In one domestic cartoon, the hero exclaims: “But in parrots, I’m much longer!” So I can, without lying at all, say that this year my garlic harvest amounted to 320 kg per hundred square meters of the ridge. But my "accounting" records after the sale of garlic on the market say something completely different - 160 kg were sold. The yield turned out to be "in monkeys"!

Now let's take a system of narrow ridges with wide, meter-long, row-spacings. There are no longer 50, but 33 on a hundred square meters of the plot square meters ridges, which means that from a hundred we get only 106 kg of the same garlic. The harvest is already “in baby elephants”, with the same boa constrictor. Facts are stubborn things.

Adherents of narrow ridges with wide aisles claim that wide aisles are more comfortable to walk on. I completely agree with this! Moreover, it would be nice to have passages of 2.5 meters. Then it would be possible to ride on them on a walk-behind tractor or a car. I'm not being ironic at all. It would be really convenient: I drove up with a trailer to the place, unloaded the organics; straight from the garden, he put the crop into the trailer ... But, unfortunately, one has to be guided not only by convenience. There is an old anecdote about the "new Russian", which was bought by "Zaporozhets". Friends are surprised: “Why do you need Zaporozhets? You have a chic jeep. He calmly replies that, they say, it is inconvenient to drive a jeep along the corridors of his new house.

Our limited areas in most cases require the use of every piece of land. Everything that has been said above is about the economy, so to speak. But it is important to consider other factors, the main of which is the place under the sun for each plant. One of the Omsk newspapers literally said the following about narrow paths in my area: “In principle, this is nonsense. Many experts argue that in this case there is not enough sunlight for photosynthesis. But my plants do not crowd each other, but just close the tops in the phase of their maximum development, despite the opinion of many experts.

It turns out that the experts are wrong? In no case. But you can cheat and get around some problems. The first thing to do is to place the beds from north to south. So the illumination of all crops will become much better. When thinking over the placement of crops for the next year, I try to take into account not only the requirement of crop rotation (bed rotation), but also the size of the vegetative mass of plants located on neighboring beds.

For example, if you place narrow beds with zucchini and cabbage next to each other, then they will clearly obscure each other. I have carrots growing next to cabbage. The tops of carrots grow mainly upwards, and therefore most of the area of ​​​​the path goes to cabbage, and carrots do not suffer either. There are many such combinations if you look closely at the plants.

Potatoes do not fit into this principle. If you plant it not in a continuous array, but place it on the beds mixed with other crops, then you need to take into account that its stems lie down under their own weight. And if we take into account that in some varieties these stems reach 1.5 meters in length, it turns out that they will block not only my narrow paths, but also neighboring beds.

But we are solving this issue. In reality, everything happens like this. Beds with potatoes alternate with family bow or winter garlic. At the beginning of summer, onions and garlic grow intensively, and potatoes are only gaining strength. In early August, it becomes crowded with potatoes. But at this time, onions and garlic are already ripening, we remove them. And the potato rows are placed after two meters. They have more than enough space. Thus, plants are not deprived of light, and important condition done - there is no empty land on which the sun's rays fall.

In August, on my site with a wheelbarrow, you can only drive along the main paths located across the ridges, they are wide - 1-1.2 meters. It is possible to walk along the aisles between the beds, but it is better to do it carefully. But in August there is no need for frequent walks between the ridges. There are almost no weeds, loosening and watering are not needed.
I do not urge everyone to do in my opinion, to each his own. My principle of laying out a garden is one of the options, and you choose.

Oleg Telepov, gardener, member of the Omsk club of potato growers

A typical summer resident always works hard in his garden. In the spring, he plows or digs up the plot, fertilizes the land, carries out sowing, which includes the constant planting of potatoes. Then, all summer long, he weeds, runs to the beds with heavy watering cans, loosens, spuds, stepson ... Such an approach to gardening at FORUMHOUSE is firmly a thing of the past. In this article, we will tell you which modern methods used by members of our portal.

RIS Member of FORUMHOUSE

Neighbors in the country dig, water, water, and mulching, flat-cutting and narrow beds are considered nonsense and nonsense. I don’t want to offend anyone, but gardening, as my parents did, is very difficult.

Organic farming in the country

Many FORUMHOUSE residents are the most ardent supporters of the organic farming method, in which the cultivation of fruits takes place in complete harmony with nature, according to the principle of "do not remake nature, but help it." Strict followers of this method do not use a shovel and a chopper, do not remove weeds, and work for several days during the season - the rest of the time they harvest.

Basic principles of organic farming. Proponents of organic farming:

• they do not plow and do not dig up the ground, the maximum that is allowed is to loosen the soil with a Fokin flat cutter to a depth of 5-7 cm.
• never use herbicides. Good agricultural technology is the key to a healthy plant, and in the gardens of well-known organists there are no aphids, fungal diseases, or the Colorado potato beetle. And if diseases and pests still appear, they are treated with microbial solutions, folk remedies or biologics.
• do not use mineral fertilizers: Only compost, rotted manure, mulch, warm beds, etc. can be used.
• they try to attract as many earthworms as possible to their site and stimulate the work of soil microorganisms.
• actively mulch both beds and paths. Agronomist Nikolai Kurdyumov, the author of the “smart garden” system, says that mulching will not get rid of weeds at all, but it’s easier to “tear out one weed exhausted by the struggle for rooting” than to be on duty with a chopper all the time. But the main purpose of mulch is not even weed control, but the preservation of moisture, increasing soil fertility and improving its structure.

Adhering to these principles on his site, the summer resident pursues three goals:

1. increase soil fertility (every year it gets better and better);
2. grow exceptionally healthy and tasty fruits without any chemicals;
3. reduce the time spent on working in the beds, make work easier.

Asemenich Member of FORUMHOUSE

But OZ in the economy requires exceptional consistency and high technological discipline! And without it, it's better not to start ...

Permaculture by Sepp Holzer

Permaculture is a direction in organic farming, which was founded by the famous Austrian naturalist Sepp Holzer together with two friends.

Permaculturologists set themselves the task of creating a vegetable garden that will take care of itself. To do this, they select plants that stimulate each other's growth, do not compete for nutrients in the soil, and repel pests from each other.

Artecology Member of FORUMHOUSE

The Art of the Lazy Master! This is how I would characterize the concept of permaculture in relation to all of us.

Member of our portal with a nickname ShadeXXX using the principles of permaculture, he is trying to revive his site in the steppes of Kazakhstan. Now there is nothing alive on his clay plot, except for dry stunted grass and mosquitoes, but he is sure that in a few years there will be a garden and a pond.

lazy bagel garden

One of the most famous permaculturologists post-Soviet space— Boris Bublik. He believes that any work with a chopper and a shovel harms the garden: you just need not interfere with nature, but rather help it by planting suitable plants nearby.

He does not remove weeds, works in the garden for only a few days per season, and practically does not care for him. The garden grows according to the principle of "edible forest", by itself, without human intervention. In the photo - the garden of Boris Bublik.

This is a rather radical approach, and among FORUMHOUSE organic farming supporters, the attitude towards bagel ambiguous: "he is more of an orator than a scientist." But this prevents the participants of our portal from successfully using many of the techniques of a permaculturologist. Especially garden tools of his invention (or based on them).

A potato planting tool, or as the permaculturist himself calls it, "potato horseradish" is a thick stalk into which a nail is driven to control the depth of the hole. Bagel does not plant whole potatoes, but eyes from the largest tubers.

In the photo below - "potato horseradish" by a member of our portal with the nickname Deppert.

Deppert

Che stared with his carved eyes, poked the holes more tightly, put the germinated eyes into the holes and trampled them down. All. Planting 4 varieties of potatoes took about an hour of leisurely work with smoke breaks.

Bagel does not sow seeds in even rows, he considers it pointless. He has about ten portable seeders - one and a half liters plastic bottles with holes in the bottom. In each seeder, holes of certain sizes are very small, for carrots, larger, for beets, etc. The gardener randomly scatters seeds with seeders over the beds, covers them with earth with a rake or a flat cutter - that's all.

The summer resident should not stand over the garden bed, bending over the letter "g", considers Bagel. He sows large seeds through a long pipe, first making holes with a peg (in the photo this pipe is on the far right).

Another know-how: self-sowing beds. Onions and garlic are not completely harvested in August, the seeds crumble, and in the spring the summer resident, without hitting a finger on a finger, has a sown bed!

Book Bagel became the primer of organic farming for our participant with the nickname Sly Fox. Thanks to this book, the forum member stopped perceiving the dacha as a place of hard labor and shared useful information with all forum users.

Sly Fox

My main task in the "garden" period was to escape from the summer cottage by any means. I read it, and I “pecked”, so much so that every day, month, year, it’s more and more difficult to get me out of the garden-garden-front garden.

Narrow beds according to Mittlider

Jacob Mittlider - Doctor of Agricultural Sciences. The task of his system: to get outstanding yields from a small area garden without much difficulty. The system stands on two pillars:

1. narrow ridges and wide passages between them. We talked in detail about this technology, which provides plants with optimal lighting. Beds and passages never change places.

Michurinets Member of FORUMHOUSE

How to collect high yields Every gardener wants to know vegetables. One of the methods is based on natural agricultural technology. And narrow beds have long needed to be done on the site.


Read carefully, and bring to life the experience of experienced gardeners. They're already reaping big crops vegetable crops.

Reasons for poor harvests

Today, soil fertility is declining catastrophically. The land on the plots has grey colour, because it becomes dense and depleted.

Fertility falls - yields decrease. And if we add to this the use of pesticides and mineral fertilizers, the picture is rather unsightly. Soil, water, air, food are contaminated, and so are the diseases of people, which are less and less curable.

But the problem can be solved quite easily if Natural Farming is applied. It will preserve and restore soil fertility.

Natural farming practices, especially minimal tillage, nutrient recovery, protection against temperature changes.

Smart garden beds

On ordinary beds, and even densely planted vegetable crops, especially in the middle, get sick and often rot. Plants develop poorly, give small fruits and are stored for a short time. It is difficult to process and weed such beds. And for pests, weak plants are food and a place where they lay offspring.

Have you ever noticed that the plants in the outer rows are much healthier than those in the middle. So you need to make narrow beds so that it is easier to process them. And if you combine two technologies - narrow beds and agricultural technology of natural farming, you can get a harvest. It's business, learn how to make your own compost, and only once arrange narrow stationary beds.

Further, instead of mineral fertilizers, which spoil the taste of the fruit, making it unnatural, use humus, grass, manure, ash. In short, organic fertilizers. At the same time, we note that, nevertheless, mineral fertilizer is not a poison, but it is good in reasonable doses.

Plants need to be fed, but not overfed.

How to arrange narrow beds

To build boxes for narrow beds, you need to maintain their width from 50 to 100 cm. We take an arbitrary length.

1. There is a gap of 60–80 cm between the beds. You should not think that the earth in the aisles is useless. No. She works. Vegetable box = this is a high bed. Its walls are made of different building materials: slate, boards, stone, brick, etc.
2. The beds should be located from north to south, and the passages should be mulched.
3. The box is filled with organic matter. Leaves, grass, straw are placed first, then manure or compost.
4. The contents of the beds should be shed with herbal infusions.
5. From above they fall asleep with earth, which is removed from the aisles. The box is full.

This is how it turns out smart garden, because only two rows of vegetables can be placed on it and only in a checkerboard pattern!

This geometry hides a huge productivity. After all, plants will receive enough light and space for development and growth. On a smart garden, they will all be extreme. Here, wide aisles help, providing space and light.

As a result, a small area of ​​organics will give much more than big square soil.

With narrow beds, the garden becomes well-groomed and beautiful. Pleasing to the eye and planted vegetables that are not clogged with weeds.

Planting vegetables in narrow beds

On narrow beds, vegetables are planted as follows:

• in 2 glad, observing the staggered order - cabbage, peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, etc.
• in 4 or 3 rows, observing a checkerboard pattern - garlic, onions, beets, various salads, carrots, radishes, etc.

There are disadvantages of the method - in the first year, material costs for the construction of narrow beds. There are also advantages - a smart garden bed will work for many years, bringing high yields.

Caring for narrow beds

They require constant filling with waste, foliage, grass, plant residues. After harvesting vegetables, it is advisable to sow the beds. When seedlings are planted in the holes, rotted manure or compost is not introduced into them. The bed is the compost.

Fences will not allow to be washed out by humus. Thanks to the large aisles, vegetable crops receive enough air and light. The beds are easy to water and the water does not stagnate.

Less fertilizer is used, both organic and mineral. If the bed is mulched, then hilling and weeding will disappear.

Narrow beds are not dug up, but only loosened to a depth of 7 to 10 cm. In the spring, they warm up faster, so they can be planted earlier. Crop rotation is also convenient: onions grew last year, and carrots and cabbages are sown this year. Tubers and roots of vegetables are clean and without signs of disease.

It is convenient to set arcs above the beds. They are sold in specialized gardening stores. It is only necessary to drive in two pegs on both sides at a distance of 1 m and put on arcs. So, they do along the entire length of the box. You can cover with foil from frost.

The best top dressing for smart beds

These top dressings will help to simply, cheaply and practically restore soil fertility and increase yields.

Starter culture for organic infusions

In a barrel of 200 liters put:

• herbal or wood ash - 1 shovel;
• litter or manure - half a bucket;
• leaf litter or rotten straw - one bucket;
• garden soil or compost, or humus - 1 shovel;
• sand - 1 shovel;
• curdled milk or whey - 1 l;
• mash - 3 l.

Mash recipe

Taken not chlorinated warm water- 3 l and sugar is added to it - 5 tbsp. spoons and yeast - 1 pinch.

Two or three days should wander and be added to the tank with top dressing. The mash is kept in the refrigerator until it is used so that it does not turn sour.

How to prepare feed

1. In the tank, everything is infused for a week and periodically mixed. The infusion is diluted exactly twice.
2. In a barrel of 200 liters, a weed is laid on 2/3 of the grass, ash is added - 2 shovels. Fill with water and cover with foil. Two weeks insist and breed 1:10.
3. A 200 liter barrel is filled by a third fresh manure and fill with water. After two weeks, apply, diluting 1:10.
4. A third of chicken manure is placed in a barrel and filled with water. After two weeks, dilute 1:20.

Pro100ogorod is always ready to share experience and knowledge.

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A dacha is not just a plot for growing and harvesting. For many, this is a favorite place to relax and implement ideas for. Often the method of planting vegetable crops is relegated to the background, but this is not correct, because from them interesting location and attractive appearance largely depends on the appearance of the entire landscape. This article tells you the easiest way to make beds for the lazy at the dacha. Photos and descriptions of the most good ideas, as well as ways to implement them, should help make your site comfortable and well-groomed.

Tall structures made of boards for planting crops will be the highlight of any site

A garden bed is most often a fenced plot of land intended for growing a certain type of plant.

• Slate.

Usually this material is used only if it is available (for example, left after the repair of the roof).

• Plastic.

The main feature of plastic is that it can be given any shape, so it is great for round or other curved fit options. In addition, it is not affected by rain and low temperatures, so it will last a long time without losing its original attractiveness.

An expensive and durable option.

• A natural stone.

It makes the most spectacular sides that will serve long years. Unlike bricks, stones have irregular shape, which will allow you to make landscape design in eco-style. Disadvantages of stone ledges: high cost and gradual sinking into the soil under the influence of its own weight, so such a ledge must be periodically checked and corrected.

Qualitatively made with your own hands from improvised materials will serve for many years, but for good harvest its correct location is also necessary.

Placing beds in the garden: how to arrange, photos, tips

The quality and quantity of the crop depends on the proper location of the beds in the summer cottage, so this issue should be given Special attention. First of all, you need to know the following:

• Beds located on the cardinal points (from north to south) - good decision only for low plants on a flat horizontal area.
• If the site has a slope that cannot be leveled, the beds should be across it regardless of orientation.
• It is desirable to make rows of one plant of the same size. This will make it easier to calculate the amount of fertilizer, the degree of irrigation and planting.
• If the site has multidirectional slopes, choose the south side (the crop will ripen faster on it).

On small areas often there is a lack of free horizontal areas for planting. If this is your case, try one of the following ideas:

• Create vertical designs.

• Use unused items for planting plants (for example, a wheelbarrow, a barrel, and so on).
• Attach the bed to the recreation area.

How best to make beds in the garden - options

The beds are classified according to design features, with the following types:

• Traditional (flush with the rest of the site, dimensions make it easy to reach the center from any side (right or left)).

• High (30-40 cm above ground level, contribute to the most rapid ripening of the crop).

• Deep (during the device, a trench is dug 20-30 cm deep, due to which the earth most often does not freeze through, and the landing can be carried out earlier).
• Narrow (for example, according to the Mittlider method, described in detail in the next chapter).
• Vertical (an excellent solution for small areas, but not all plants can be planted in this way).

Related article:

How to make beds from boards with your own hands

Now let's look at how to properly make beds in a garden made of wood. This material is the most common when arranging beds. Board structures have the following advantages:

• Reliability.

The tree perfectly retains moisture inside the row, and also does not deform for a long time.

• Low cost.

This material often remains after construction. If it was not there, you can buy boards at a fairly low price.

• Ease of installation.

The main thing is high-quality wood processing, if this is not done, insects and moisture will quickly destroy the structure.

• Attractive appearance.

Wood is a material ideal for eco-style beds.

The only drawback of board structures is their fragility (in comparison, for example, with plastic or brick). However, the ability to change them quickly and at the lowest cost more than covers it.

How to make a bed of boards with your own hands: photos, dimensions, installation sequence

If you decide to do wooden structure, first of all, you need to choose the type of tree:

• Oak or ash- hardwoods, the boards of which are perfect in this case, but their price is quite high.
• Pine- cheap, but short-lived. You can extend the life of such a fence with the help of periodic chemical treatment.
• Cedar or larch– the best price-quality ratio. Due to the presence of resin in these conifers, there is no need to process them.
• Acacia- also a great option for arranging beds.

What are optimal dimensions board beds? First you need to decide on the height of the structure, which depends on the following factors:

• Features of the planted culture.

Some vegetables require a certain depth (for example, for potatoes, the planting depth must be at least 40 cm).

• Soil fertility.

If the soil is fertile, the sides can be made 10-15 cm high. If fertile soil is required to be backfilled, 30 cm or more.

• Bed type.

For example, for warm temperatures, a height of 50 cm or more is typical.

The length of the row can be any, but it is not recommended to make it too long for two reasons: it will be an obstacle to moving around the garden, the wooden structure will have to be further strengthened with oblique or vertical pegs.

The most important parameter when arranging beds in the country is their width, since ease of use largely depends on it. If you make it too wide, it will be problematic to reach its center. Therefore, the maximum value of the width is considered to be 100 cm.

In most cases (if the planned design does not have a too complex shape), it will not be difficult to make a bed of boards with your own hands. The size of the boards depends on the size of the future beds, however, if you only have material of insufficient length at your disposal, it does not matter, several boards can always be spliced ​​in length.

The procedure for the construction of a wooden structure:

• Territory preparation.

At this stage, it is necessary to level and dig the site for the structure.

For a rectangular structure, it is necessary to connect 4 boards and attach support bars to them, which should be 20-30 cm longer than future sides. They need to be slightly sharpened with an ax from the free side (to simplify entry into the ground).

• Construction installation.

We hammer the structure into the ground, while it is important to use the level to achieve maximum evenness of the structure.

• Surface treatment of boards.

First of all, the surface is primed (to protect against moisture and pests), then covered with oil paint (optional, you can leave the color of the tree).

• Backfill.

The composition depends on the type of construction and the selected culture. But in all cases, the first layer should be drainage.

Most often, they try to plant only one crop in one area, but sometimes they practice joint planting of vegetables in the garden. However, it is worth remembering that not all plants get along with each other. Therefore, the following is a table of compatibility of vegetables in the beds.

Related article:

Interesting ideas come to the mind of many summer residents and owners of private houses. In the article, we will consider original photo examples and several instructions for creating such beauty.

Mixed planting of vegetables in the garden: examples, photos

More and more summer residents are interested in obtaining not only a large harvest, but also an environmentally friendly one. Therefore, the question arises, how to achieve a quality crop without resorting to chemicals?

An excellent solution is a mixed planting of vegetables. After all, some cultures have a beneficial effect on each other. However, in this issue you should be extremely careful, since not all plants like any kind of neighborhood at all.

Thanks to the science of "allelopathy", a table of the neighborhood of vegetables in the garden has been compiled, using which you can significantly reduce the use chemicals for pest control and fertilizer.

Neighborhood of vegetables in the beds - compatibility table

The table below reflects the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. Planting using this information will ensure a quality crop with minimum investment funds.

Mixed planting vegetables in the garden: examples with photos and tips

Each benevolent or unfriendly neighborhood of vegetables in the garden has its own rationale. For example, strawberries and onions are great neighbors. Onions protect the berry from rot and disease, and if parsley is also planted nearby, it eliminates the appearance of slugs.

Onions are also a great companion for most garden crops, as they keep pests away. The most interesting neighborhood of this plant is with carrots. Both cultures have their own pest - the onion and carrot fly, and the first one cannot stand the smell of carrots, and the second - onions.

Garlic is excellent for pest control, making it a good companion for most crops. However, it is not recommended to plant it next to plants of the legume family, since the latter are leaders in nutrient intake, and garlic needs quite a lot of them.

Joint cultivation of crops in the garden can be detrimental to other vegetables. For example, tomatoes cannot be planted with cucumbers, as they require varying degrees glaze. Thus, the proximity of these two crops will create difficulties in processing (there will be a need for spot irrigation, which will take much more time and effort).

In addition to the properties of plants, it is necessary to pay attention to their size. For example, when alternating cabbage and radish, the second crop will receive insufficient sunlight, causing the quality of the crop to deteriorate significantly.

So, you have developed an ideal layout for all the vegetables in your summer cottage, but every year the harvest is getting worse. What to do? It is necessary to ensure crop rotation.

Table of crop rotation of vegetables in the beds

Crop rotation is the organization of crop rotation in the garden. Ideally this process must be continuous and annual. However, in real conditions, this is very difficult to achieve for the following reasons:

• There is not enough information about the contamination of the soil and the presence of pests in it.
• No time for precise calculations ideal option landing.

Why is crop rotation essential for a good harvest? Each crop has unique characteristics in terms of obtaining nutrients. Someone is looking for them in the surface layers of the soil (for example, a cucumber), someone, in search of water, lowers the roots several meters deep (for example, a watermelon). In addition, each plant needs (in more) different elements (for example, for a tomato - phosphorus, for cabbage - nitrogen).

Now imagine that from year to year a certain layer of soil is depleted, and the content of precisely those substances that are necessary for this crop decreases.To make it easier for you to decide how to rotate vegetables, below is a table of vegetable crop rotation in the garden.

Important! The main thing is that the culture does not return to its original place within 3-4 years. During this time, the soil will have time to recover and accumulate the necessary amount of nutrients.

How to make a garden bed for cucumbers in the open field: photos, methods

Cucumbers are a rather capricious crop that requires special care. Many believe that it can only be planted in seedlings, however, thanks to many years of selection, there are currently several varieties that can be planted immediately in open ground.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare beds for cucumbers in the spring:

• Correctly choose the direction of the rows - from north to south.
• Fertilize the soil best solutions- cow dung or chicken manure, if they are not available, any mineral fertilizer will do).
• Put the sides (preferably at least 25 cm).

The main secrets of growing cucumbers in open field- choosing the right time for planting (from May to mid-June, depending on the region) and choosing the right variety.

How to make beds for cucumbers - common features

In the case when seedlings are not used, grow a quality crop in the usual way(on standard beds) will not work. You must use one of the other ways to grow cucumbers in open ground:

• The device beds with a bookmark.
• Installation of a warm bed (including a raised structure).

These methods are non-standard, therefore, they are described in detail below to prevent errors during arrangement.

How to make beds for cucumbers with a bookmark in the garden

To arrange a bed for growing cucumbers with a bookmark, it is necessary to dig a trench 30 cm deep and successively fill it with the following layers:

No water stagnation.

Warm beds for cucumbers in the open field

How to make a warm bed for cucumbers on the surface of the earth? To do this, it is necessary to build a box (for example, from boards or bricks) and fill it with the following layers:

• Sand.
• Organic waste (leaves, bark, etc.).
• Straw.
• Fertilizer (manure is best).
• Earth and humus.

The main thing is to carefully compact each layer, otherwise the soil will turn out to be too loose, and you should not expect a good harvest.

Advantages warm beds for cucumbers:

• Lack of dirt from the beds due to the presence of bumpers.
• High yield.
• Aesthetic appearance (you can make beautiful identical beds).

Raised beds for cucumbers in the open field

In an unfavorable climate, it is advisable to arrange raised (or high) beds 40-50 cm high (for convenience, you can make it higher). At the same time, the sequence of layers remains the same as in conventional warm structures on the surface of the earth. Such structures have the following advantages:

• Even faster warming of the soil, which means that the harvest will appear earlier.
• Convenience (no need to bend over to care for cucumbers).

  

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At the request of many of my friends, I will tell you how I grow vegetables.

I work, so I can only go to the summer cottage on weekends. At the same time, you need to relax after a working week, eat barbecue, take a steam bath, and, well, work a little on the ground. Currently, there are several problems in horticulture: soil fertility is declining. The earth becomes dense, depleted and gray in color. The fall in fertility entails a decrease in harvested crops.

The use of mineral fertilizers and pesticides leads to contamination of soil, water, air and food, which leads to human diseases. Traditional agricultural practices used by most gardeners are very labor intensive. And this reduces the interest in gardening among young people.

However, all these problems are quite easily solved if natural farming is used instead of traditional farming. Such agricultural technology not only preserves, it also restores soil fertility. The result is an increase in productivity. horticultural crops. Mineral fertilizers are not used, which preserves the purity of Nature and preserves human health. A number of horticultural operations in natural agricultural technology are used less frequently than in traditional ones. And some are completely missing. All this reduces the labor intensity of cultivating the land and caring for plants.

In my opinion, it is more important to return to nature and forget the postulate that the soil must be stuffed with fertilizers, torn with shovels and sprinkled with pesticides. Natural farming is, first of all, gentle tillage, protecting it from temperature changes, returning nutrients that the earth has generously given to plants.

Every year in the spring, coming to our summer cottage, we sow or plant vegetables in our beds. The size of the beds is from 1.4 meters to 2 meters wide, the paths between them are from 20 cm to 40 cm maximum. This is called the traditional way of planting vegetables in the garden. The plant in such beds, especially in the middle, often get sick, rot, and because of this they develop poorly, vegetables are small, and are not stored for a long time. But for pests, a weakened plant and good food, and offspring can be deposited near it. Weeding, processing such beds is one torment.

But on such a bed I saw one positive side. The outermost plants, relative to those located in the middle, looked more worthy. Larger ones are not susceptible to disease and are easy to weed, thin out, etc.

I also thought about another factor. A single tree along the alleys within the city, no one feeds it, the foliage that it throws off, and then they try to remove it for appearance and beauty. Although this foliage could serve as top dressing for the tree. So why does this tree exist and where does it get its food? Behind last years scientists have found that about 60% of the plant takes food from the air. It's certainly interesting.

The unpredictability of our Far Eastern climate, high temperature fluctuations, night and day, dry or rainy summers, excessive precipitation by the end of August and the beginning of September confirmed the methods of growing vegetables that I had chosen over many years of trial and error. I came to the conclusion that we need to look for another way that is less time consuming, but at the same time with the possibility of obtaining higher yields. I combined two technologies.

1. "Narrow ridges - a unique vegetable growing technology for small areas."
2. "Agrotechnics of natural farming".

I became convinced that it is organic matter that can reveal all the possibilities of plants, saving time and energy. Only on good compost can one see and evaluate the quality of Western and domestic varieties: most of them are created for organic soil. I am sure: we can’t get away from organic matter. That's all there is to it: learn how to compost and also arrange stationary beds - once for many years.

Vegetable growing on narrow ridges was developed by J. Mitlider in the 70s of the last century and brought by the author to Russia in 1989.

But blindly copying techniques and advice, even the best, will not lead to anything. There must be a creative approach to understanding the biological laws of the culture itself, and the processes that occur during its cultivation. Mitlider has one drawback (this is my opinion) when using mineral fertilizers, the taste of the fruit is unnatural. To fix this, instead of mineral supplements, I use humus, ash, manure, herbal infusion, etc. (I'm a supporter organic fertilizers). I am for a clean ecological product.

But do not take mineral fertilizer as a poison. Just stick to the dose. It is better to underfeed a plant than to overfeed it.

What I am especially grateful to J. Mitlider for is the development of narrow beds. Although Mitlider does not recommend putting the box on narrow beds, I still knocked together the boxes. Nature itself told me this. In the spring, many suburban areas are flooded, the water does not have time to drain, there is water in the aisles. We have the same problem in late August and early September - it rains day and night. Yes, and in the middle of summer it can rain for 2 - 3 days, or it can flood the entire garden in half an hour.

Therefore, raising the beds 15-25 cm above the path solves this problem. The width of the ridge is 60 - 100 cm, the length is arbitrary. The gap between the beds is 60 - 80 cm. It just seems that the earth in the aisles walks uselessly. It is the passages that work, and how!

A vegetable container is a high bed, the walls of which are made of bricks, logs, timber, boards, stone, slate ... The beds stretch from north to south. The passages between them can be mulched with sand, sawdust, roofing felt, etc. I preferred the lawn, which I cut with a trimmer once a month. Some passages I covered with sawdust. The beauty of the garden leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful.

Box - the box is filled with organic matter. Plant residues (grass, straw, foliage) are put down, then compost or manure, or we spill with infusions of herbs and the like; V upper layer earth is laid from the aisles. Thus the box is filled.

Each bed is 2 rows of vegetables, planted along the edges in a checkerboard pattern between vegetables. In this geometry, a huge reserve of productivity is hidden, it has long been noticed: the outermost plant develops almost twice as well as those in the middle - they have much more light and space for growth. And here - all the plants are extreme. A wide aisle is also needed in order to give them light and space. A small area of ​​organic matter yields more than a large area of ​​soil. Anyone who has worked on narrow ridges for at least one season is convinced of the enormous possibilities of this method and simply cannot return to traditional technology. Working on the ridges, a person experiences joy not only from a good harvest, but also from the very process of growing vegetables.

The beauty of the garden, which looks more like a park, leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful.

In two rows in a checkerboard pattern, I plant cabbage, eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, etc.
In four or three rows, I plant onions, garlic, beets, lettuces, radishes, carrots, etc.
Disadvantages Requires material costs in the first year for the construction of the beds. This tiny flaw makes the container inaccessible to most summer residents.

Such a bed has been working for several years, one might say forever (replenish it with waste, plant debris, foliage, etc.). After digging, sow green manure. When planting, do not add compost or rotted manure into the hole. This bed itself is compost.

The humus is not washed out, as the bed is fenced. According to many agronomists, 60 - 80% of the plant gets its nutrition from the air, so large passages play a significant role in the biological process of the plant. The culture receives good light and sufficient air flow.

About 30% of the plant receives food from the ground. Naturally, the consumption of organic and mineral fertilizers on a narrow bed is 2 times less compared to a standard bed. At the same time, you will get a much higher yield from a narrow bed. I have tested this for several years and it shows in my photographs.
Contains a large amount of nutrients, a supply of moisture.

Convenient watering.
No stagnant water.
Does not require hilling.
Does not require weeding - if the bed is mulched.
Does not require digging, only loosening by 7 - 10 cm.
You can plant early, as the beds in the spring warm up faster than usual.
Narrow beds are easy to rotate. Where onions were planted last year, this year you can plant carrots or cabbage. The beds are all the same width.
Yields are increased by 100% or more.
Tubers, root crops are clean without visible signs of disease.
Beautiful and easy to work with.
Takes up minimal space, does not create dirt and mess.

It is very convenient to make shelter with plastic arcs, which are sold in seed stores. We put 2 pegs on both sides of the beds and put an arc on them. The distance between the arcs is about a meter. Depending on the length of the beds, you set the desired number of arcs. Covering material or foil can be used over the arches until the danger of frost has passed.

This system of narrow beds allows me to get consistently high yields, regardless of the vagaries of the weather and the conditions of the site itself.

Really great? And this is even if we take into account that Igor lives in the Khabarovsk Territory, in Komsomolsk-on-Amur!
And they tell us the zone of risky farming, the zone of risky farming :))

Creation of a bed-box.

At the request of many of my friends, I will tell you how I make a garden bed. A vegetable container is a high bed, the walls of which are made of bricks, logs, timber, boards, stone, slate. The beds stretch from north to south.

In the photo you will see a bed made of logs. The logs remained after the dismantling of the houses, they were not taken into construction, since the core had rotted, but it will do for the garden.

We prepare a flat area.

We firmly lay the logs in the ground, you can even deepen it a little. Width from 80 - 120 cm, it all depends on climatic conditions the hotter, the wider the bed.

The length is arbitrary.

We knock the logs together with nails or screws.

I put cardboard at the bottom so that a perennial weed does not develop ...

... as well as pests of Khrushchev, wireworm, etc.

We lay down coarse plant residues of corn, sunflower, etc.

Yes, it needs to be painted or whitewashed. Water-based paint for facades is currently on sale. This is so that the sun does not heat the earth and insects will gnaw less, and most importantly, the beauty of the garden.

Then I lay the plant residues of other crops - carrots, cabbage, potato, tomato tops, etc. Whether they are diseased or not. Effective microorganisms will process all sores. Do not plant perennial weed. I don't use Baikal and the like.

Igor Lyadov uses 4 types of dressing tinctures

1. I believe that every farmer can independently prepare microbial preparations for himself, almost as diverse in composition as the commercially available EM crops, but from his own, local microbes adapted to climate and soil, which will be ecologically more intelligent and practical.

We offer practical, simple and cheap way restore soil fertility and increase plant productivity. Given that the main components of EO are yeast and lactic acid bacteria, which are already enough in the soil and around us, we suggest using ordinary sugar-yeast brew as a starter for organic infusions.

The infusion is being prepared. In a 200-liter container (barrel) is placed:
- a shovel of wood or grass ash;
- half a bucket of manure and