Nitrafen description and method of use. How to properly and effectively spray your garden against pests. Instructions for use in gardening

Spraying the garden with pesticides against the wintering stages of pests and diseases is carried out in the spring before buds open.

At a later time, these pesticides cannot be used - they can destroy the leaves.

The garden must be sprayed very carefully so that the solution covers the bark on all branches.

Nitrafen (drug No. 125)

Dark brown paste, soluble in water. Used against eggs of aphids, apple worms, red apple mites, larvae of acacia false scale insects, pear scab, and partially against eggs of comma and willow scale insects.

The drug is also effective as a means of combating the wintering stages of anthracnose berry bushes, American gooseberry powdery mildew, partially against apple scab.

Working concentration 3% (300 g per 10 l of water). To prepare the working solution, pour a dose of concentrate with double the amount of water, stir until smooth, pour into the water measured for preparing the emulsion, and mix well. It is moderately toxic to humans. Stains clothes and buildings.

Drug KZM

Green (petroleum) oil emulsion concentrate. Thick, oily, dark-colored liquid. Contains 68% green oil. Dilutes well in water, forming a stable emulsion.

Effective against tick testicles, partially against leaf roller eggs.

The working concentration is 8% (800 g per 10 l of water) when spraying pome-bearing species and 6% (600 g per 10 l of water) when spraying stone fruits and berry bushes. Emulsions are prepared in the same way as nitrafen emulsions.

Relatively low-toxic to humans.

Preparation 30 and 30C

Concentrated mineral oil emulsion. The liquid is light brown. It thickens a lot in the cold. Contains about 80% petroleum oil. Used against red apple mite eggs in the form of a 5% emulsion (500 g per 10 liters of water). Toxic (but to a lesser extent) against leaf roller eggs.

Low poisonous to humans, flammable.

Iron sulfate (ferrous sulfate).

Light green crystals of various sizes, sometimes with a whitish or brown coating; when ground it is a dark gray powder.

It dissolves well in water. Used to combat mosses and lichens and as a prophylactic against fungal diseases.

Working concentration 5% (500 g per 10 l of water).

Low poisonous to humans.

Preparations for the destruction of gnawing pests (caterpillars, sawfly larvae, weevils, etc.)

Mainly used to control chewing pests chlorophos. Sevin is promising, and the bacterial drug entobacterin-3 is also promising against caterpillars.

Chlorophos (dipterex)

It dissolves well in water. Available in the form of several drugs.

Paste-like chlorophos - thick viscous mass gray, contains 65% of the active substance. Used in a concentration of 0.2% (20 g per 10 l of water).

Crystalline or finely lumpy chlorophos white, contains at least 90% of the active substance. Used in a concentration of 0.1 - 0.15% (10 - 15 g per 10 l of water).

Wettable chlorophos powder - white or gray, contains 80% of the active substance. Used in a concentration of 0.15 - 0.2 (15 - 20 g per 10 l of water).

A highly effective pesticide against leaf-damaging caterpillars (open-feeding) and against the larvae of various sawflies, including apple, plum and currant sawflies, various types gall midges and flies. It is also effective against the codling moth, gooseberry moth, apple blossom beetle and apple copperhead.

Moderately toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals.

Sevin - 50 and 80%

Wettable powder. Substitute for DDT. This promising pesticide is used at the beginning of bud break against leaf-damaging caterpillars and weevils in a concentration of 0.1 - 0.15% - for a 50% preparation of 10 - 15 g per 10 l of water) and during the second spraying against the codling moth (through 30 - 40 days after flowering of the apple tree) at a concentration of 0.2% (20 g per 10 l of water).

If sevin contains 80% of the active substance, its concentration decreases accordingly. Sevin, when used soon after flowering, can cause excessive thinning (abscission) of the ovary in an apple tree, so you should refrain from using this drug when first spraying against the codling moth.

Moderately toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals, poisonous to bees and other beneficial insects.

Entobacterin-3

Light gray wettable powder, bacterial preparation.

With the help of entobacterin, you can successfully fight almost all butterfly caterpillars that damage the leaves of trees and shrubs; it is also effective against the larvae of the cherry slimy sawfly.

The drug is especially toxic against caterpillars and larvae (first instars). The effectiveness of entobacterin against caterpillars of apple and plum moths living inside the fruit is being studied.

Concentration when used in central and northern regions is 0.5 - 0.1% (50 - 100 g per 10 l of water).

The drug should be used at an air temperature of +20 - 30 degrees (at temperatures below +15 degrees it is better to refrain from using it).

The addition of a very small amount of chlorophos to the entobacterin suspension (2 g per 10 liters of suspension) significantly improves the effectiveness. In this case, you can reduce the concentration of entobacterin to 0.3% (30 g per 10 l of water).

Entobacterin can be added to all pesticides used in the garden. The drug is harmless to plants, warm-blooded animals, bees and other beneficial insects.

The production of entobacterin is improving.

Boverin

Pesticides for the control of sucking pests.

Organophosphorus preparations (karbofos, trichlorometaphos-3 and others) are promising for the control of sucking pests. These drugs successfully replace highly toxic ones for humans: nicotine sulfate, anabasine sulfate, thiophos, methyl mercaptophos.

IN lately new anti-tick drugs began to be used - keltan and tedion.

Karbofos (malathion) - 30%

Emulsion concentrate, a complete substitute for thiophos and nicotine sulfate.

Thick liquid from light yellow to dark brown with strong unpleasant smell, disappearing quite quickly after spraying. Mixes well with water, forming a stable emulsion.

Karbofos emulsions are used in a concentration of 0.3% (30 g per 10 l of water) to combat herbivorous mites and open-feeding caterpillars and in a concentration of 0.1 - 0.2% (10 - 20 g per 10 l of water) to combat aphids and apple honeydew larvae.

Karbofos does not destroy pest eggs.

Moderately toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals. Flammable.

Methylnitrophos - 30%

Emulsion concentrate. Thick oily liquid of dark brown color. A promising drug for the control of herbivorous mites, aphids, sawfly larvae, leaf-eating caterpillars of the first instars and other pests.

Used in a concentration of 0.1 - 0.2% (10 - 20 g per 10 l of water).

Moderately toxic to humans.

Trichlorometaphos-3 (30 - 50% concentrate)

An oily brownish-brown liquid with a pungent odor that mixes well with water. A complete substitute for thiophos and nicotine sulfate. It is used to combat herbivorous mites, aphids, copperheads, leafminer larvae, open-living caterpillars and younger sawfly larvae.

Working concentration 0.15 - 0.2% (15 - 20 g per 10 l of water) for a 50% concentrate.

Moderately toxic to humans.

Keltan

Organochlorine drug. Ethersulfonate substitute, compares favorably with latest topics, which does not burn plant leaves in the concentration used. Available in the form of a 20% emulsion concentrate.

A highly effective acaricide, it retains its toxicity on the leaves for 30 - 60 days. It is used in the form of 0.2 - 0.3% emulsion (20 - 30 g per 10 liters of water).

Keltan should not be mixed with Bordeaux mixture and other pesticides with an alkaline reaction, this reduces its toxicity. Moderately toxic for humans and warm-blooded animals.

Tedion - 50%

Wettable powder. Substitute for ethersulfonate and other acaricides.

White or light yellow powder. Used in the form of a 0.2% aqueous suspension (20 g per 10 l of water) against summer eggs and hatching larvae spider mites.

Tedion does not destroy adult female ticks and overwintering eggs. The best time for application on the apple tree is before flowering, immediately after flowering and subsequently within the time limits provided for combating the codling moth.

It can be used together with Bordeaux mixture and in this respect compares favorably with Keltan. The drug is safe for bees and other beneficial insects (entomophages), does not burn plants, and is low-toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals.

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Ethersulfonate - 30%

Wettable powder of white or light brown color with a slight odor. It does not dissolve in water, but after stirring in it it forms a stable suspension. Designed to combat herbivorous mites.

Working concentration 0.1 - 0.3% (10 - 30 g per 10 l of water). The drug destroys the testicles and young larvae of ticks, but has a weak effect on adult ticks. Ether sulfonate remains on the leaves for a long time and gradually destroys the larvae hatching from the eggs.

It can cause burns to young leaves of some varieties of apple trees and stone fruits, especially in wet weather, so it is best used in summer on rough leaves. Low poisonous to humans.

Colloidal sulfur.

Grayish-yellow powder. Contains 70% finely ground sulfur. It is used mainly to combat currant bud, pear and plum gall mites. Effective, but to a lesser extent, against spider mites, scab and powdery mildew of apple trees.

Working concentration 0.5 - 1% (50 - 100 g per 10 l of water).

A dose of sulfur is ground with a small amount of water until creamy, poured into the water intended for preparing the suspension, and mixed well. It is better to soak the sulfur the day before the day of spraying. Low poisonous for people. Flammable.

Liquid soap, potash.

A paste-like mass, brown or greenish in color, dissolves well in soft water. Usually soap is added to solutions of nicotine sulfate and soda to improve their action and adhesion, 20 - 50 g per 10 liters of water.

A solution of liquid soap in high concentrations (250 - 300 g per 10 liters of water) can be used to combat aphids. Liquid soap can be replaced with laundry soap.

Pyrethrum

(Powder of a brownish-straw color). It is obtained by grinding dry flower heads of Caucasian, Dalmatian and Persian chamomile.

The drug does not burn plants and is practically harmless to humans and warm-blooded animals. However, high cost and relatively limited release for sale hinder its widespread use in plant pest control practice.

It is used to combat aphids, flea beetles and various caterpillars (especially younger and middle ages) by pollination.

At long-term storage pyrethrum may lose its toxic properties. Therefore, it is advisable to first test the drug by pollinating a twig infested with pests. The death of pests usually begins 1 - 2 hours after pollination. Pyrethrum can also be used by spraying, for this you need to infuse 100 - 200 g of powder for 10 hours in 10 liters of water.

Pesticides for combating plant diseases.

Along with Bordeaux mixture To combat plant diseases in horticulture, new promising fungicides are widely used - copper oxychloride, captan, zineb and others. Most of the new drugs do not cause leaf burns and are more convenient to use, which compares favorably with Bordeaux mixture.

Copper sulfate (copper sulfate). Pictalls of various sizes are blue, odorless, dissolve in water, faster in hot water (cannot be dissolved in metal containers). It is used mainly as a component of Bordeaux mixture. Low poisonous to humans.

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Quicklime (boiling lime). Pieces of various sizes are white, light gray or slightly yellow; slaked lime (fluff) - white powder, and if there is excess water - a semi-liquid or liquid mass.

To combat pests, you should use only freshly slaked lime, which neutralizes the acidity of some pesticides that burn plants.

During long-term storage, slaked lime interacts with carbon dioxide in the air, turns into chalk and becomes unsuitable for preparing Bordeaux mixture. Freshly slaked lime is also used for whitewashing trunks fruit trees.

When working with quicklime you need to use glasses.

Bordeaux liquid.

A mixture of copper sulfate and lime milk solution. It is usually used in a 1% concentration to combat scab, fruit rot and other fungal diseases.

To prepare 50 liters of 1% Bordeaux mixture, you need to have wooden barrel with a capacity of at least 60 liters and two wooden barrels. A little is poured into one barrel hot water and dissolved in 0.5 kg of copper sulfate, after which add as much cold water to obtain 25 liters of solution.

In the second barrel, 0.5 kg of lime is slaked with a small amount of water and water is also added to obtain 25 liters of lime milk. Lime milk pour it through a thin cloth into a barrel, and then pour a solution of copper sulfate into it, thoroughly mixing the liquid. Both solutions must be cold before combining.

Bordeaux mixture cannot be prepared in metal containers.

Properly prepared Bordeaux mixture should have a sky blue color and a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, which is checked with indicator papers.

For retail sales Dry Bordeaux mixture is produced in packs weighing 300, 600 and 900 g, which contain bags of copper sulfate and lime, as well as indicator papers for checking the quality of the prepared liquid. Low poisonous for people.

May cause leaf burns, brown netting on fruits and cracking, especially in damp and cool weather.

Soda ash, or laundry soda (sodium carbonate).

White pictallic powder, soluble in water. Used to combat powdery mildew gooseberries and currants in the form of a 0.5% solution (50 g per 10 liters of water and the same amount of soap). To prepare the solution, dilute soap in soft water and add soda, previously dissolved in a small amount of water. Virtually harmless to people.

Copper-soap emulsion.

Used to combat gooseberry powdery mildew and strawberry powdery mildew. To prepare 10 liters of working solution, 150 - 200 g of soap are dissolved in 9 liters of rain or soft water.

Separately in 1 liter of water in glass or pottery dissolve 5 - 10 g of copper sulfate. Then the copper sulfate solution is poured in a thin stream into the soap solution with constant stirring. A properly prepared emulsion should have a greenish color and not form flakes.

Copper oxychloride.

Light green powder, insoluble in water, a substitute for Bordeaux mixture. Contains 50 - 9% active principle and forms stable aqueous suspensions. It is used in a concentration of 0.3 - 0.5% (with a content of 90% of the active substance, take 30 g of the drug per 10 liters of water).

The drug in recommended concentrations usually does not cause burns to plants (in years with wet, cold summers, burns are possible) and is convenient for preparing a suspension, which compares favorably with Bordeaux mixture; Remains relatively well on plants.

A suspension of copper oxychloride can be used in conjunction with most pesticides. Copper oxychloride should not be mixed with preparations containing lime.

Moderately toxic to humans.

Phthalan - 50%

Wettable powder of white or yellowish color. It is used against apple and pear scab and other fungal diseases in a concentration of 0.5% (50 g per 10 liters of water).

Also effective against powdery mildew of apple trees. The drug can be used together with most insecticides, with the exception of alkaline ones. Phthalan should also not be used in combination with mineral oil emulsions or shortly after using them on plants.

Low poisonous to humans and warm-blooded animals.

Captan - 50%

Wettable gray powder with an unpleasant odor. A substitute for Bordeaux mixture in the fight against scab and leaf spots of apple and pear trees. Captan is used in a concentration of 0.5% (50 g per 10 l of water).

Its suspensions do not burn plant leaves. Burns are possible only if captan is used in a mixture with mineral oil emulsions or within 10 - 15 days before or after their use.

Captan should not be used together with alkaline compounds and emulsions of mineral oils. For humans and warm-blooded animals, captan is mildly toxic, but can irritate mucous membranes and skin.


Pesticides for the control of mouse-like rodents.

Raticides and bacterial preparations can be used against mouse-like rodents (mice and voles).

Krysid- fine-crystalline powder of gray or gray-brown color, with a slight odor.

Does not dissolve in water. They are used to prepare poisoned baits when fighting house rats (take 10 g of ratsid for 1 kg of bread or porridge, and 5 g when fighting mice). Poisonous to humans and domestic animals.

Bacterial preparations.

Preparations from Prozorov (No. 5170), Isachenko, and Merezhkovsky are used against mouse-like rodents that damage plants. They are produced by veterinary bacteriological laboratories.

Liquid bacterial preparations and preparations on special media are used with the addition of bait products, and preparations on grain are immediately placed in rodent burrows.

When used correctly, these bacterial preparations are not harmful to people or pets.

Pesticides allowed for use in collective and home gardens provided that the work is carried out by special plant protection organizations (stations, teams, etc.)

DNOC (selinon, DINOK)

Yellow powder, soluble in water, contains 40% active principle.

Apply in the spring before the buds of trees and shrubs against the eggs of the apple honeysuckle, aphids, comma and willow scales, acacia false scale larvae, pear scab, and also to combat the wintering stages of anthracnose berry crops, American gooseberry powdery mildew, partially apple scab. Working concentration 0.5 - 1% (50 - 100 g per 10 l of water).

To prepare the solution, a dose of the pesticide is first dissolved in a small amount of water and then poured into a barrel of water, where a working solution is prepared, mixing well.

The drug is very toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals. Upon contact with skin, it irritates and stains it. yellow for several days, strongly stains clothes. When spraying, it is necessary to protect the respiratory system and exposed parts of the body from splashes.

30% and 50% wettable DDT powders

Powders are white or gray in color with a weak characteristic odor. They do not dissolve in water, but form a stable suspension. Used against leaf-damaging caterpillars, sawflies, weevils, codling moths, gooseberry moths and other gnawing pests.

Used exclusively for spraying plants, not suitable for pollination.

Working concentration 0.4 - 0.7% (40 - 70 g per 10 l of water). To prepare the suspension, a dose of powder is ground in a small amount of water until creamy and poured into a barrel of water, where the working liquid is prepared, mixing well.

Poisonous to humans and warm-blooded animals.

Zineb (thietsin) - 50%

Light gray wettable powder, substitute for Bordeaux mixture. Zinc preparation.

Used to combat scab and other fungal diseases of fruit and berry plants at a concentration of 0.4 - 0.5% (40 - 50 g per 10 liters of water) within the time limits established for the use of Bordeaux mixture. Zineb suspensions can be combined with organophosphorus and organochlorine pesticides.

Please note this:

Effective drug to protect the garden from pests and diseases. Available in the form of a dark brown paste, highly soluble in water.

In addition to protection, nitrafen has a stimulating effect on plant growth and development.

It cannot be used on green vegetation. Use this product either early spring, even before the buds swell, or in late autumn - after the leaves fall.

What is Nitrofen used for?

On fruit trees: against scab, various leaf spots, mosses and lichens. Effectively destroys aphids, mites, scale insects, caterpillars, leaf rollers and other sucking-gnawing pests.

To prepare a working solution, 200 g of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water.

To disinfect the soil, take 300 grams per 10 liters of water. For 1 mature fruit tree and
the soil underneath needs 10 - 30 liters of solution.

On berry bushes(gooseberries, currants, raspberries): - against anthracnose, scab, powdery mildew, as well as to destroy aphids and other pests.

The bushes and the soil under them are cultivated after the leaves fall. Dilute 150 g of nitrophen per 10 liters of water.

On strawberries: against leaf spots and gray rot of berries.

Strawberry bushes and the soil under them are sprayed with a solution at a concentration of 150 g per 10 liters of water. This is done in the spring, before the leaves begin to grow.

For weed control. Effectively fights woodlice, cress and others weeds. It is necessary to cultivate the soil in early spring, diluting 300 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.

General spraying of the garden is also carried out to destroy the infection. the soil under the bushes and
around the berry bushes and on tree trunk circles fruit trees with a working solution in a concentration of 300 grams of nitrafen per 10 liters of water.

When using the drug, you must follow the usual precautions as when working with pesticides.

If you have used Nitrafen, please write whether you are satisfied with its effect. Would you recommend using this particular drug to protect the garden from diseases and pests?

Your feedback will help many gardeners evaluate the effect of Nitrafen more objectively and decide whether it is worth purchasing it or not.
Interesting on the topic:

The best reviews from gardeners

    I bought Nitrafen in the fall, but didn’t have time to process it, so I sprayed the trees today, 04/06/2019. I don’t know yet what will happen, summer will show how I protected my young garden. the drug was produced in Voronezh, Russia.

    Stanislav

    I tried nitrophen on peach. After the first application in the spring there was no leaf curl.
    This year I sprayed the entire garden, both at home and at the dacha. There are too many mosses and diseases. I hope it helps

    Alexander

    I always used nitrophen before. good effective remedy, but I recommend the best - 100 grams of honey sulfate 300 grams of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters. water. Excellent dissolution, excellent effect and fertilizer.

    valentine

    I tried the product Nitrofen for currants and I’m satisfied. I didn’t even look who the manufacturer was. The main thing is the result is super. Ukraine.

    Danilovich

    Last year I sprayed it in the fall, in the spring before the buds open it’s still scary for strong poison short term before the growing season, and in the fall that’s it. Even potassium cyanide will decompose over the winter.
    I noticed that nitrafen works as a plant growth stimulator.
    The grapes have never had such huge leaves as this year. The currant hybrid and many trees had branches broken by the harvest.
    I don’t know, maybe it’s just a coincidence or maybe not, especially since the summer was very dry.
    Of course, there were illnesses, but clearly less than before nitrafen.
    This year I missed the autumn weather for processing, waiting for the windows in December.
    This year I want to spray it with a mixture of nitrafen and the drug “30+”. It turns out an emulsion. This mixture covers the plants well and leaves no chance for mischief.
    Last year I tried it when I treated almost everything with a regular solution.
    I add grams 150-200 "30+" to the bucket
    The result is an emulsion

Reading time: 6 minutes. Published 11/07/2018

Fungal diseases can become widespread; Nitrafen can be used
used for both treatment and prevention

In this article:

Description of the drug

Insectofungicide Nitrafen is a paste that has a dark brown color and a sharp bad smell carboxylic acid. Active ingredients- sodium salts of acylphenols. The paste is highly soluble in water and has insecticidal, herbicidal and fungicidal effects. It is sold in iron or glass jars, but most often found in polymer bottles. The shelf life of this substance is three years.


It is necessary to strictly adhere to the instructions for use. Since Nitrafen is a strong chemical

Despite the high effectiveness of the drug, we should not forget that it's very strong chemical agent , which burns young shoots of plants and irritates human skin. Therefore, the use of Nitrofen in gardening should be carried out strictly according to the instructions. It is important to remember that plants can be treated with it only in early spring, before the leaves begin to appear, or in late autumn.

Use in gardening

It is advisable to spray plants with Nitrafen at the end of March or beginning of April. To combat diseases and pests, just one application is enough, since this substance provides long-term protection and, after spraying, is well preserved on any organic surfaces and soils.


Nitrafen is poorly washed off from treated surfaces, which provides long-term protection to plants

The drug is effective against the following pests:

  • mites;
  • caterpillars;
  • mole;
  • scale insect;
  • leaf roller;
  • slowpoke.

In gardening, this substance can also be used to disinfect soil near trees or shrubs. Some gardeners treat fallen leaves with it. But it is undesirable to use the drug as a herbicide, since it creates unstable soil salinization.

But Nitrofen successfully fights the following diseases:

  • rust;
  • septoria;
  • scab;
  • powdery mildew;
  • coccomycosis, etc.

It can be used to treat apple trees, pears, cherries, currants, grapes, gooseberries, strawberries, as well as other fruit trees and berry bushes. Insectofungicide works great against weeds, for example, woodlice and rapeseed. It is also used to disinfect wounds on trees and shrubs. To do this, the damaged areas should be coated with Nitrafen solution.

The instructions for use of this drug provide for its use only in the form of an aqueous solution, which can be prepared differently depending on the purpose.

Instructions for use and price

Nitrafen is a very effective drug for combating larvae and eggs on fruit trees. To prepare a working solution for spraying, you need to take 200 g of paste and dilute it in 10 liters of water. To treat one mature tree, as well as the soil under it, approximately 30 liters of the finished substance will be required.

To spray berry bushes against aphids, scab, powdery mildew and other pests, you should take 300 g of the drug and dilute it in 20 liters of water. For 10 sq. meters of plantings, approximately 2 liters of solution are consumed.


Spraying with Nitrafen should be carried out before the start of the season and after

Experienced gardeners use liquid Nitrophen to treat grapes to get rid of aphids, scale insects, moths and mites. To do this, the drug is diluted in exactly the same proportion as for fruit trees. Thus, you need to prepare a 2% solution and treat all the grapes, soil and vegetation under it in the spring. If it was not possible to complete this procedure on time, then it is advisable to carry out spraying in the fall, when the crop is harvested and green leaves will fall off.

In this video you will learn about the grape processing scheme:

Against leaf spot and gray rot of berries on garden strawberries you can also use a 2% solution of Nitrafen. The instructions for spraying the garden to kill infections are the same as for treating berry bushes. Only in this case, a 3% solution should be used to treat the soil not only under the bushes, but also around them, as well as on the tree trunks of fruit trees.

The insectofungicide is inexpensive; 300 ml of this substance will cost about 120 rubles. You can buy it in special gardening stores or order it online.

Analogues and precautions

Now there are several analogues for almost every drug, and Nitrafen is no exception. Therefore, if desired, you can replace such a product with Bordeaux mixture, concentrated urea solution or copper and iron sulfate.

While working with Nitrofen precautions must be taken, since in pure form this powder is highly poisonous. It may cause irritation to the skin, eyes and respiratory tract, prolonged contact with this substance may lead to dermatitis.

Before applying the solution, be sure to take care of personal protective equipment. It is advisable to carry out spraying with gloves, a respirator, goggles and closed clothing. After working with the substance, you should wash your hands and face well.

Plants should be treated with the drug in dry and windless weather. Morning or evening time. When preparing the working solution, you must strictly adhere to the instructions; you must not exceed the concentration of the substance recommended by the manufacturer. It is recommended to spray plants with Nitrophen no more than once every three years. It is important to remember that this substance is flammable.

As you know, for trees to bear fruit effectively, it is necessary to provide for them proper care. In particular, it is necessary to spray the garden in early spring and autumn, and in some cases in summer. In this article we will look at the purposes for which spraying is performed, what drugs are used for this and how this process occurs.

Spraying seasons

It is impossible to accurately determine the timing of spraying, since they depend on the following factors:

  • The climate zone in which the garden is located.
  • Vegetation processes of trees.

Early spring spraying is carried out immediately after the plants awaken from winter sleep. The last spraying is carried out in the fall after leaf fall. Next, we will consider the features of spraying at different times.

Pay attention!
Spraying can only be done in calm weather.

First half of spring

To protect plants from pests and diseases, they are sprayed before the activation of vegetative processes, i.e. at the beginning spring period. Correct selection fungicides will get rid of most of the pests that could successfully overwinter in tree shoots or bark.

In addition, this procedure will be a reliable prevention against various diseases. Spraying garden trees Before buds open, apply copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture.

These drugs serve as prevention against a number of diseases:

  • Scab;
  • Moniliosis;
  • Spotting;
  • Coccomycosis;
  • Clusteriosporiosis, etc.

In addition, these fungicides kill hatching larvae from eggs laid by insect pests. Some types of trees can also be sprayed with iron sulfate, since it performs the same functions as copper sulfate, but also saturates the plants with iron.

In particular, this element is especially important for normal development and growth, which, in addition to the apple tree itself, includes the following plants:

  • Pear;
  • Hawthorn;
  • Rowan;
  • Quince, etc.

Spraying of garden plants during this period is carried out twice:

  • “Along the green cone” - before the flowers begin to bloom (unopened buds resemble cones). Typically, this procedure is a prevention of diseases such as powdery mildew and spotting.
  • As a rule, trees are sprayed a second time in the spring with urea, during the so-called “bud release” period.. This will kill most insect larvae.

The next spraying is performed after the plants have flowered.

Advice!
Often, instead of urea, nitrophen is used to spray the garden.
This drug is also very effective in controlling insect pests and certain types of diseases.

Second half of spring

After all the flower petals have fallen, it is necessary to perform a final spring spraying. Moreover, the drug is selected depending on the type of tree:

Tree Drugs
Pear and apple tree Medicines are used against scab and other spotty diseases, for example, you can use:
  • Vectra;
  • Rubigan;
  • Impact;
  • Skor, etc.
Apricot To prevent monilial burn or hole spotting, trees should be treated with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.
Peach The greatest dangers are clusterosporiosis, leaf curl and codling moth caterpillars. Therefore, plants should be treated with copper-based fungicides, as well as insecticides such as Stefesin or Decis.
Plum As a rule, damage is caused by codling moth caterpillars, as well as aphids and mites. In addition, polystigmosis and moniliosis are common diseases. Therefore, you can choose the following poisons for spraying:
  • Zolon;
  • Dandim;
  • Fufanon.
Cherries and cherries Such plants are affected by coccomycosis and clasterosporiosis, as well as by some pests. Therefore, treatment can be carried out with the following active substances:
  • Copper chloride with added poisons;
  • Topsin.

Pay attention!
It is necessary to spray the entire garden, and not individual types of trees.

In addition, to prevent fungal diseases and mite infestations, gardens are sprayed with urea or a solution of DDT powder.

Summer

In the summer, as a rule, the garden is treated with urea with your own hands. This fungicide not only kills many insects, but also saturates the trees with nitrogen. The procedure is carried out several times during the hot season.

Young plants are usually treated folk remedies, as they are completely safe. For example, tobacco tincture or other strong-smelling liquid is used against aphids.

Autumn

In autumn, trees are sprayed twice:

  • In early autumn - urea;
  • After leaf fall - with special preparations that prevent putrefactive processes.

It must be said that it is not necessary to purchase preparations for the second spraying, since they can be made at home.

The instructions look like this:

  • 300 grams of copper sulfate must be dissolved in three liters of water;
  • Then 400g of fluff lime should be mixed with 10 liters of water;
  • While stirring the lime mortar, pour the copper sulfate solution into it in a thin stream.
  • The resulting composition must be filtered through gauze folded several times.

Pay attention!
Regardless of what product will be used to spray the garden, this procedure must be performed in dry weather.

This solution has a soft blue color and will stain the trees for a while, however, over time the paint will wash off. The price of such a drug will be significantly lower than the purchased product, but the effectiveness will be the same.

Spraying technology

On my own process Spraying is quite simple, however, it requires patience and the following:

  • Special piston-type pump for tree processing or compressor;
  • Respiratory mask;
  • Rubber gloves;
  • Glasses;
  • Substances for treating trees.

In the photo - a respirator for respiratory protection

The spraying technology is as follows:

  • If the procedure is performed in the spring, you need to brush the tree trunk with a stiff brush to remove moss or lichen. This procedure will lead to cell activation and shoot growth.
  • Shake the solution well before use. This procedure During the spraying process it is necessary to repeat periodically.
  • Then, using a compressor or pump, spray the fungicide evenly onto the tree. It is necessary to treat all parts of the plant, in particular, the leaves are sprayed on both sides. In this case, you need to ensure that the preparations fall evenly with dew; for this, the tip of the tool must be kept at a distance of about 80 centimeters from the leaves.
  • After completing work, you must wash the device. Protective elements (goggles, gloves and a respirator) must not be removed.
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Early spring spraying will help get rid of pests and diseases without harming shrubs and trees.

Athletes say that winning is difficult, but maintaining this victory is even more difficult. It’s the same in gardening: planting a garden is half the battle; the main difficulties begin when you need to take care of it in order to enjoy a generous harvest. And this process begins in March, when everything around awakens, including pathogens and garden pests. It is important to use nitrophen to spray your garden. But we will look at why and how to do this in this article.

Spraying the garden in early spring

Why is this necessary?

Just as a person begins his morning with hygiene procedures, so a gardener must begin in early spring sanitization trees, so that instead of fruits eaten by bugs and spoiled by diseases, we get large and healthy apples, pears, and plums. It is spring spraying (before the buds open) that helps to successfully fight diseases and pests. Most often this is:

  • ringed silkworm
  • psyllids
  • leaf roller
  • caterpillar
  • scab
  • powdery mildew

Having treated trees in early spring, you can forget about aphids, caterpillars, and leaf rollers.

It is best to start spraying and gardening in spring immediately after the snow melts, in sunny, windless weather.

What and how to spray trees

Before starting spraying, it is important for the gardener to decide which products to use:

  • chemical
  • biological
  • combined

The peculiarities of chemical preparations are their rapid solubility in water and a disintegration period of 2-3 weeks. Biological products are made on the basis of various viruses, bacteria and microorganisms that fight pests garden plants. And combined ones help to avoid repeated treatment of the garden, because they contain both chemical and biological components that destroy several types of pests.

Before spraying, it is necessary to clean the tree trunks of moss, lichens, and damaged bark; this will facilitate better penetration of the solution deep into the plant. For spraying, you can use a hand pump or an automated sprayer with a hose of the required length.

A solution is prepared in a separate container, mixed until smooth and placed in a sprayer. During operation, you need to constantly shake the container. The distance from the sprayer tip to the branch should be about 75 cm, so that fine dew is formed and the drug has the maximum effect on branches, bushes and trees.

A prerequisite for successful processing is compliance with security rules: rubber gloves, respirator, safety glasses. After treatment, you must wash your face and hands with soap and rinse the sprayer.

When spraying in the garden, be sure to use protective equipment.

What drugs are used

For early spring spraying, you can safely use any chemicals, since there are no leaves on the trees yet. Getting on fruit trees, the product immediately destroys pest larvae, without waiting for conditions favorable for insects to occur. It is especially useful to use preparations for spraying, which additionally fertilize the soil around the tree. Among the gardening fraternity, there are many opinions regarding the choice of spraying products. Here are the most popular and proven:

Use of nitrophen

An effective drug for controlling insects that overwinter in tree bark is nitrophen. It has a pasty consistency of brown color in polymer bottles, tins or glass jars. Nitrophen has a detrimental effect on mites, aphids, scale insects, moths, scale insects, and leaf rollers. It also successfully copes with diseases of garden plants: septoria, rust, cluster blight, cocomidosis, powdery mildew. One treatment is enough for a successful result. For spraying fruit trees, dilute 300 g of nitrophen in 10 liters of water, for bushes - 200 g per 10 liters. Nitrophen for garden spraying is harmless to humans and animals; it is often used to disinfect the soil around trees and treat fallen leaves.

Spraying with urea

Fungal and infectious forms of garden disease can be defeated with the help of urea, which is harmless to humans and quickly decomposes in the air. Early spring spraying of the garden with urea, which is the second name for urea, is also very useful because it inhibits vegetative processes in plants. On treated branches, the buds bloom later, which helps protect the tree from night frosts. In addition, urea is one of the most concentrated nitrogen fertilizers (46%), in addition to fighting garden diseases, it perfectly fertilizes the soil. Urea is diluted in the following proportions: 700 grams of the drug per 10 liters of water. The trees are treated generously so that every branch is wet.

Urea is an effective medicine and garden food.

To make garden spraying effective in spring, follow these tips: experienced gardeners:


Using the information and useful tips gardeners, you will definitely reap a generous harvest in the fall and delight everyone at home with it!

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