How to make your own solenoid valve for water. DIY solenoid valve for water. Do-it-yourself solenoid valve for watering

When using water supply and heating systems, the occurrence of emergency situations no one is insured.

An electromagnetic (solenoid) water valve allows you to minimize risks and losses in the event of a breakthrough.

This device allows you to quickly shut off or, conversely, open the flow of water in a few seconds, while at a distance. Let us examine in detail how the solenoid valve is designed, its types, principles of operation and installation.

Design and principle of operation

A solenoid valve is a shut-off valve that closes the water flow and allows you to control the speed of fluid movement in the pipeline.

These devices are called electromagnetic, since their operating principle is built around an electromagnetic coil (solenoid).

There are several types of similar products and each has its own characteristics and differences in the principle of operation.

An automatic water valve includes the following components:

• frame;
• lid;
• membrane and seal;
• plunger;
• stock;
• electric coil.

The body of such units is usually made of materials such as brass, stainless steel (to increase resistance to corrosion) and cast iron. Plumbing solenoid valves made of plastic are quite popular.

Plungers and rods are made from materials that have magnetic properties.

The electromagnetic coils are placed in a special protective housing, which has fairly high tightness parameters.

The winding for the coils is usually made of copper wire or enameled wire. Such devices begin to work after voltage is applied to the coil.

An electromagnetic or in other words induction coil converts electricity into forward motion.

The most common are coils with copper winding on a cylinder. The cylinder includes a magnetic plunger. As soon as a pulse is applied to the coil, a magnetic field appears.

As a result of action magnetic field, the core is pulled into the coil.

Product membranes are made of polymer materials that have high level elasticity. Such materials include the following:

• membranes EPDM, NBR, FKM.
• PTFE or TEFLON seals.

Valves can be made from the most different materials, the body is made of plastic, brass or cast iron.

In the event that there is a need to shut off the supply of the transported medium from the control unit to induction coil an impulse is given.

Thanks to this signal, the core of the device rises or falls (it all depends on the configuration of the device) and blocks the flow of liquid.

Immediately after the tension disappears, the core returns to its original position and fluid movement resumes.

Benefits of using electromagnetic devices

The main advantage of a solenoid valve for water is that it allows you to quickly regulate the flow of the transported medium in the system.

The device only needs 2-3 seconds to perform its functions.

Because of this, the solenoid model is a fairly important device in the water supply systems of apartments and private houses.

It also makes it possible to regulate the temperature by regulating the flow of coolant.

The electromagnetic device allows you to smoothly distribute the temperature in the heating system, thereby preventing its contamination.

And this directly allows you to extend the service life of the entire heating system.

Due to the fact that the device in its design does not have wearable mechanical parts, solenoid models are more reliable.

Such a device can be mounted in systems with the most various indicators pressure, because this characteristic does not affect its operation.

It is because of these characteristics that electromagnetic models occupy a dominant position among shut-off valves on the market.

Areas of application

An automatic water valve is a fairly useful device that is used in a wide variety of areas.

This unit is successfully used in various sectors of the household and national economy, and also in various industrial sectors.

Lots of air ducts and water pipes to varying degrees design complexity successfully use this product in their work.

Equipment with a solenoid drive is most popular in designs where most of the devices operate on the principle of automatic control.

The choice of application is mainly determined based on the material from which the valve is made.

Similar devices can be found in washing machines, sewerage systems, irrigation systems, to control hydraulic systems, heating systems and many others.

He gained the greatest popularity in:

1. Irrigation. Used for watering vegetable gardens, orchards, greenhouses. When installing such a device, all processes become automatic. An electromagnetic device with a servo drive (220, 24, 12 V), if a timer is connected to it, will allow you to set time intervals for operation and shutdown of the device. It can be in the normally open or closed position. Such rhythms will allow you to control the regulation of water flows. The advantages of using such a device are more than obvious - there is no need to waste time constantly monitoring the irrigation system.
2. Sewers. Solenoid valve(12, 24 V) for water is quite widely used to regulate the water supply in public showers and toilets. It also uses a timer that allows you to automatically turn on and off the water pressure.
3. Washing systems. The solenoid water valve (220, 24, 12 V) allows you to ensure timely drainage of water during car washing. Moreover, a similar device is used in household and industrial washing machines.
4. Large scale kitchens. The supply solenoid valve sp6135 (220, 24, 12 V) is a truly integral device on conveyor systems for the production of bakery products, adjusting the water supply level to industrial dishwashers and coffee processors.
5. Accurate dosing. Electromagnetic shutter for hot water plays an important role in the procedures of mixing various raw materials and materials.
6. Heating systems. Water solenoid valve (220, 24.12 V) prevents interruptions in the operation of heating systems. The device allows you to make up for losses during the gradual evaporation of water on main heating routes.

In addition, electromagnetic models are used to regulate and control the transportation of various aggressive media in production.

Devices used in production can be quite large in diameter.

Types of automatic water valve

The solenoid valve (its types) come in two categories, the main difference of which is their operating principle of turning the mechanism on and off:

• direct action;
• pilot action.

In addition, they come in several main types, which have their own functional characteristics. Devices are:

• normally open (or normally closed). In the event that no voltage is applied to the coil, this device remains open (if it is normally open), and thus does not interfere with the flow. In the case of a normally closed valve, the opposite is true;
• bistable. As soon as voltage is supplied, the operating positions are switched.

Based on the type of coils, devices are divided into:

• direct current - the coil of devices of this type has a low electromagnetic field strength;
• alternating current - the coils of these devices have a fairly powerful electromagnetic field.

In addition, the units are divided by type of operation:

• one-way;
• two-way;
• three-way.

Single-pass ones have only one pipe and they cannot combine different flows of liquids.

Two-way valves have two pipes (inlet and outlet).

The operating principle of the one-way and two-way device operates on the method of functioning of the ball or cone, which is used for closing.

Three-way solenoid valves for water have as many as three pipes in their design and can operate on the basis of mixing fluid flows.

In addition, devices of this type can control and regulate temperature using mixing water flows. There are also explosion-proof models used in working with explosive environments.

These valves are made of fire-resistant and durable materials. There are also vacuum valves.

Based on the type of connection to the pipeline, they are divided into:

• flanged valves;
• threaded valves.

Useful information! Eat special type devices called cut-off. This type of device can instantly shut down a pipeline or clog one of the pipes during an accident.

Control and shut-off valves must be selected and installed only based on calculations made earlier.

Use one or another type of valve (normally closed, two-way, direct acting, etc.

) is necessary depending on the type of pipeline and what type of medium is transported through it.

Valves are used in a wide variety of environments, which have their own individual temperature and pressure indicators. The choice of device type must be based on the characteristics of the environment, otherwise the device may not last long.

There are several key features to look for when choosing a solenoid valve. The main parameter is the diameter of the inlet and outlet openings.

The range of electromagnetic devices is quite large. They have different distinctive features in the design.

But usually this does not greatly affect the operating parameters.

The most popular are one-inch electromagnetic devices, whose flow rate reaches 40 l/min.

Important! Before purchasing a valve, special attention must be paid to the mechanical regulator built into the device. It may have several modes. The greater their number, the better the system will be controlled.

In cases where a valve with the highest possible throughput is required, the SVR series device can be purchased.

In a normally closed position, the valve of this series can have fluid flow rates of up to 100 l/min.

Valve prices vary according to their quality characteristics.

Installation and operation rules

When installing and operating solenoid valves, the following points must be taken into account:

1. Before self-installation electromagnetic device for water, it is necessary to make preparatory work, which includes pipe cleaning and marking.
2. The valve installation location must be visible and freely accessible. The compactness of solenoid valves simplifies this task.
3. It is strictly forbidden to install the device in a case where the electromagnetic coil will act as a lever.
4. Installation and disassembly should only be carried out when the device is completely de-energized.
5. It is recommended to install a dirt filter on the system, thanks to which the product will not become clogged with foreign particles.
6. The solenoid should not be stressed by the weight of the pipes.
7. Installation must be carried out in accordance with the directional arrows marked on the surface of the valve.
8. If the installation is carried out on open space, the device must be protected with special insulation.
9. It is recommended to use FUM tape as a sealant between valve and pipe connections.
10. The device is connected to the electrical network using a flexible cable whose core cross-section should not be less than 1 mm.

Compliance with the rules when installation work and the requirements of the operating instructions will extend the service life of the device, which stabilizes the operating pressure of the medium inside the system.

Problems with the operation of this device are often caused by the following problems:

• due to a break in the control unit cable, the cable cannot receive the required power supply;
• if the spring fails, the valve does not operate during normal power supply;
• If you don’t hear a characteristic click when starting up the equipment, then the reason lies in a burnt-out electromagnetic coil.

Even a simple blockage of the hole can lead to a malfunction of a normally closed solenoid valve.

Inspection of the internal components of the water valve should only be carried out with the system completely drained. Carrying out complex repairs on your own is not recommended.

Source: https://SantehnikPortal.ru/vodosnabzhenie/elektromagnitnyj-klapan.html

We make a faucet with our own hands: electric, needle, non-freezing

Modern industry produces many different taps and valves to regulate the flow of liquid. There is a suitable one for every application.

However, the inquisitive minds of home craftsmen do not give up attempts to develop and implement their own designs.

Sometimes this is caused by the desire to save money, but more often by the desire to test one’s own strengths as a designer, mechanical engineer, mechanic and electrical engineer.

Types of cranes

Trying to replicate the design of a conventional shut-off valve makes no practical or economic sense unless the home workshop is equipped with high-precision milling, turning and drilling machines. The price of industrial designs for mass production is affordable even for the most modest budget. Another thing is technically complex shut-off valves for special applications, such as:

• ball with electric drive;
• needle;
• non-freezing;
• with instantaneous water heater;

Options for doing it yourself will be discussed below.

Ball with electric drive,

The motorized valve can find its application in modern “smart” water supply, heating and air conditioning systems created by home DIYers with minimal use of purchased components. In addition to testing your strength, there will also be a significant monetary benefit - a purchased device with an electric drive costs from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

For a do-it-yourself ball valve with an installed electric drive, you will need the following materials and components:

Figure 1: 3/4 valve

• window lift drive for Lada 1117, 2123 left LSA;

Figure 2: Power window

• five-pin automobile relays – 2 pcs.;
• limit microswitches - 2 pcs.;
• sheet metal 1 mm thick (for the frame and clamps);
• steel tube 10 mm - trimmings (for bushings);
• square profile 10*10 mm - 10 cm;
• metal strip 4 mm thick - 10*1 cm;
• spring with a diameter of 12 mm;
• M8*45 bolt with nut and washers - 2 pcs.

All electrical equipment is 12 volt. Tools needed:

• drill;
• metal scissors;
• workbench with a vice;
• welding machine;
• hand tools (hammer, screwdriver, wrenches, pliers, etc.)

The mechanism being created should allow the electric crane to be controlled both using a drive and manually. The manufacturing sequence is as follows:

• Bend a U-shaped frame from a sheet of metal.
• Make bushings from the tube sections for attaching the window lift drive to the frame.
• Secure the drive.
• Secure the frame to the pipes coming out of the ball valve using clamps.
• Cut out an attachment for the gearbox axle from a square profile.
• Weld a strip to it.
• Assemble the lever mechanism of the drive from the strip and the handle, spring-loading it. The spring presses the levers together; if necessary, they can be quickly separated without the use of tools and the crane can be operated manually.
• The strip is hinged to the handle using a bolt and nut. Lock the nut.
• Attach the square profile to the window regulator shaft.

Can be used car battery or a power supply with a power of at least 50 W. The lever transmission should move smoothly, without jerking or distortion.

If necessary, correct parts touching each other with a file.

Now comes the turn of the electrical part of the drive.

• Mount limit microswitches in the extreme positions of the handle.
• They should be connected in such a way that they open the control circuit of the relay through which the engine is turned on when the extreme position “Open” or “Closed” is reached.

Such a drive can be connected to the control circuits of a smart home system.

A do-it-yourself electric water faucet will be cost-effective if the window lift drive is inexpensive.

A new one costs up to 1 thousand rubles, and can eat up half the savings.

Instead of a window lifter drive, you can use any other electric drive,

Figure 3: Motorized crane

similar in power and torque.

Needle

A needle valve with a large adjustment range can be assembled from scrap materials at low cost. To make it you will need:

• Plastic disposable syringe 2 ml.
• Insulin syringe 1 ml.
• Bearing ball – 2 pcs.
• Springs - 2 pcs.
• Nut and adjusting screw.
• Epoxy glue.
• Fasteners
• Plastic ties - 2 pcs.

Figure 4: Valve diagram

The diagram shows:

• Syringes - black.
• Balls are blue.
• Springs - green.
• The stock is red.
• The direction of fluid movement is indicated by green arrows.

To make a faucet, you should:

• Select balls by diameter. The big one should be a little smaller internal size 2 ml syringe, small - 2 times smaller.
• Select springs according to force. The compression force of a large spring is approximately twice that of a small one.
• Drill a hole in a large syringe near the spout equal to the inner diameter of the insulin one. Tighten the insulin syringe by the ears with ties, wrap it with synthetic threads and glue it.
• Insert a small ball and a smaller spring into a large syringe.
• Cut off the piston rod.
• Insert the large spring and the second ball.
• Insert the adjusting screw.
• Tighten the nut with screws to the ears.

Figure 5: Finished design

The incoming liquid will tend to press the ball away from the inlet hole, the spring will press it back the more strongly the tighter the adjusting screw is tightened. If the screw is completely turned out, the flow will flow freely, if it is completely tightened, the flow will be blocked.

Anti-freeze faucet

Those who need to use the water supply on their property in winter are faced with the problem of the street tap freezing. With large temperature changes, the water inside the fittings and pipes turns into ice and can break them.

There are several ways to organize such water supply:

• Installation of a purchased anti-freeze tap. In it, the valve plate is located inside the warm contour of the walls. It is always installed with a slope towards the street. Then, after closing the valve, the remaining water in the pipe flows down and does not freeze in the pipe. Devices are released different lengths, which allows you to install it in walls of different thicknesses.

Figure 6: Anti-freeze valve

• A homemade version of such a device is a regular poppet valve mounted on a supply inside a warm wall contour. Its rod is extended by a rod passing through the wall in a tube. A handle is attached to the outside of the rod. The pipe must also be installed with a slope towards the street. This method requires an extra hole in the wall, but is several times cheaper. Of course, you will have to periodically chip off the ice that forms under the spout.

Figure 7: Homemade Anti-Freeze Valve

• A faucet installed on an underground insulated water supply system. In this case, it is necessary to have a drainage into which the water remaining after closing the tap in the vertical pipe will be drained. The design uses a three-way valve installed in an insulated pit.

Figure 8: Three-way valve

• The valve is controlled from the street via a stem extension. In the operating position, it turns on the water supply to the vertical pipe, at the end of which a spout is mounted. As soon as water is drawn, the tap is closed, the supply stops, and the remaining water in the pipe is drained through the third hole of the tap into the drain.

Sensory

Full touch tap home handyman It’s unlikely to be possible to make.

the problem will be in the placement and waterproofing of the infrared proximity sensor.

A rather interesting design that allows you to turn the water on and off with your hands full can be assembled using

• Solenoid valve from a washing machine for 220 v - 2 pcs.
• Fitting 10mm*1/2 external thread - 2 pcs.
• Fittings from ¾ to ½ internal. thread - 2 pcs.
• Bell button for surface mounting.
• Wires.

The installation and configuration procedure is as follows:

• The valves are installed at the break in the hot and cold water line, directly in front of the mixer.
• Their drive is connected via a foot switch.
• During pre-setting, with the solenoid valves open, you need to set the required temperature and intensity of water flow and leave the mixer tap in this position.
• If you need to turn on the water, just press the bell button - the valves will work and water will flow from the tap.

When water is no longer needed, simply release the key and the springs will return the valve to the closed state. Special attention Care should be taken to waterproof wires and connections.

Instantaneous water heater for tap

Purchased instantaneous electric water heaters have a compact design and are equipped with a temperature control system, spout and aerator.

It is unlikely that you will be able to make such a faucet attachment with your own hands in a home workshop. the problem lies in the accuracy of processing parts and ensuring the electrical safety of the device.

However, DIYers have developed a simple and quite effective design that allows them to do without complex and expensive components.

It works by heating a coil heat exchanger on a gas or electric burner. For production, average metalworking skills are sufficient.

Materials and tools you will need:

• Copper tube with a diameter of 10-12 mm - 1 meter
• Rubber or plastic hoses, heat-resistant - 2 distances from the burner to the sink +1 m
• 2 fittings from the internal diameter of the hoses to ½
• Adapter from tap for Eurocube
• 4 clamps
• Threaded arms and nuts for them - 2 pcs.
• Construction knife, screwdriver, gas wrench

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• Wind a spiral from the tube according to the shape of the burner. Taper the spiral to make maximum use of the heat from the burner. The straight sections of the inlet and outlet pipes should extend beyond the slab panel by 20-30 cm.
• Attach the spiral to the stove grate. Place the hoses onto the pipes and secure them with clamps.
• Connect one fitting to the cold water supply (pipe or canister tap), the other to the mixer.
• Place the free ends of the hoses onto the fittings and also secure with clamps. Cold water should go to the bottom pipe of the spiral.

Figure 9: Homemade instantaneous water heater

When such a heater is operating, it should not be left unattended for a minute.

Source: https://ZnatokTepla.ru/truby/kran-svoimi-rukami.html

Converting a valve from a washing machine to 12 volt DC | Master Vintik. Everything with your own hands!

Electric valves are required to automatically control various hydraulic systems. Finished goods quite expensive. Let's look for a cheaper solution.

The most commonly available valves are from broken washing machines.

The coils of such devices are designed for 220 volts AC, which limits their capabilities. Sometimes it is more convenient to control the valve with a low voltage voltage of 12 volts.

I needed such a device to regulate the interior heater mode of a VAZ car.

Suitable valves from foreign cars are outrageously expensive, and with the increase in the exchange rate they even become a luxury item.

Let's try to convert the solenoid valve from the washing machine to the on-board voltage of the car.

First, let's see how everything works.

We remove the coil by inserting a thin screwdriver into the gap between the solenoid and the housing. In this case, you can slightly squeeze the petals that secure the solenoid coil with pliers.

To operate at 12 volts, the valve solenoid (coil) must be replaced.

The most suitable solenoid was found in the EPPXX air valve of the VAZ 2105.

Since no images of the insides were found on the Internet, I will provide them for the curious.

Let's start disassembling

The simplest thing is to cut off the rolling using sandpaper or file it along the outer edge.
Valve cover (view from inside):

Stock, aka cork. The air flow is blocked by a rubber insert at the end. At the opposite end there is a recess for the spring:

A steel washer for closing the magnetic flux and a non-magnetic guide in which the rod moves:

Coil:
1. In the case.

2. Removed.

Oval O-rings seal the terminals from the inside of the housing. We will need one of them later, so save them.

And finally, the body from the inside. The end of the stationary magnetic circuit with a protrusion for the spring is visible:

Using sandpaper, we grind down a tube with a riveting on the back side, and placing the body bottom up, carefully knock out the remains of the internal magnetic circuit with a beard. If the body is dented inward, we eliminate the deformation. Next, drill out the central hole to a diameter of 9mm.

To create a magnetic system similar to the valve system from a washing machine, it is necessary to cut two strips from tin from a tin can - one 15 mm wide, the other 10 mm wide. The length of the strips should be such that a ring of approximately 1.5 turns is wound on the body of the valve stem from the washing machine.

Let's start assembling

We put a steel washer from the EPHH valve on the rod body, then a 15mm ring made of tin (it should pass freely through the washer), then one of the oval rings from the terminals, then the coil (put on with a little friction), then the steel body from the EPHH valve.

After this, we evenly place a second ring of tin, 10 mm wide, into the gap between the stem body and the valve body.

If the operation is difficult, you can shorten the length of the strip so that a little more than 1 turn is wound, with an overlap of 2-3 mm.

When the remaining part is 0.5 - 1 mm, the edges of the tin ring are bent outward using a thin screwdriver or knife.

In the frontal part of the solenoid, the edges are also slightly rolled up.

The assembled valve is activated in the downward position at a voltage of 10-11 volts.

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Pipeline operation for various purposes assumes that the liquid and gaseous media that are transported through them must move in a certain direction. By making a check valve with your own hands or purchasing a serial model, you can meet this requirement for the operation of the pipeline and its equipment, which will allow long time keep them in working order.

Purpose and principle of operation of the device

Backflow in piping systems can occur for a variety of reasons. If we are talking about liquid media, such a reason may be a pump shutdown, and in the case of ventilation, an incorrect installation of the exhaust pipe or a small amount of incoming air. Whatever causes backflow working environment in a pipeline system, this phenomenon is extremely undesirable, since it can lead not only to incorrect operation of the elements of such a system, but also to their failure.

To prevent the formation of reverse flow in the pipeline system, as mentioned above, check valves are installed on it, which can differ both in appearance and dimensions, and in design. The main function of such a device, installed on pipelines through which liquid and gaseous media are transported, is to pass the working flow in one direction and block its movement at the moment when it begins to move in the opposite direction.

The design of check valves, regardless of their type, consists of the following elements:

• a housing, the inner part of which is formed by two communicating cylinders;
• a shut-off element, which can be a ball, a valve or a cylindrical spool;
• a spring that presses the locking element against seat located at the outlet of the valve through hole.

The principle of operation of the check valve is quite simple and is as follows.

• After the flow of the working medium entering the valve reaches the required pressure, the spring pressing the locking element is pressed out, allowing gas or liquid to freely pass through the internal cavity of the device.
• If the pressure of the working fluid flow in the pipeline drops, the spring returns the shut-off element to the closed state, blocking the flow in the opposite direction.

There are many check valves available on the market today. various types, which allows you to select such devices to solve specific purposes. Meanwhile, many home craftsmen, guided by a natural desire to save money, make check valves with their own hands and share drawings and diagrams of their homemade products on the Internet.

Making your own check valve for water

A homemade check valve for installation on a pipeline through which water is transported does not require expensive manufacturing consumables and sophisticated equipment, which makes it possible to save big. So, to make a check valve yourself, you need to prepare:

• a coupling with an external thread cut into its body;
• female tee;
• a spring, the diameter of which allows it to freely enter the tee;
• steel ball, the diameter of which is slightly less than cross section internal cavity in the tee;
• screw plug;
• sealing tape FUM.

If you have not found a spring suitable in diameter, you can make it yourself, using a rod of the appropriate diameter and a rigid steel wire. It is necessary to drill a hole in the rod on which the homemade spring will be wound, and the end of the wire will be inserted into it. To make winding the spring more convenient, the rod can be clamped in a vice, and the wire winding itself can be done using pliers.

After all the materials for making a homemade check valve have been prepared, you can begin assembly, which is performed in the following sequence.

• A coupling is screwed into the internal threaded hole of the tee. This is done in such a way that it overlaps the side hole by approximately 2 mm. It is necessary to fulfill this requirement when tightening the coupling so that the ball, which will be located in the inner part of the tee, does not jump out into its side hole.
• A ball is first inserted into the hole located on the opposite side of the tee, and then a spring.
• The hole in the tee into which the ball and spring were inserted is plugged with a screw plug, tightened using FUM tape.

A check valve made according to the proposed scheme will work as follows: the flow of water entering such a device from the coupling side will push away the ball, pressed by the spring, and exit through the perpendicularly located hole of the tee.

The most important thing when making a check valve of the proposed design with your own hands is to correctly adjust the spring so that it does not deviate at the moment when the water pressure in the pipeline decreases, and at the same time is not too tight so as not to impede the flow of water passing through the device. In addition, all threaded connections must be made very well to ensure absolute tightness of the check valve.

How to make a check valve for ventilation systems

The question of how to make a check valve to equip a ventilation system is no less pressing than making a similar device for water supply or sewerage. By installing a check valve in the ventilation system, you will reliably protect your home from polluted and cold air entering such a system from the outside.

It should be noted that the check valve of the proposed design, when compared with serial models, is no less efficient and can successfully serve you for two to three years.

So, the manufacture of a homemade check valve to equip the ventilation system is carried out in the following sequence.

1. First of all, it is necessary to manufacture the main element of the check valve - the plate on which the flaps will be fixed. To create such a plate, which is cut strictly according to the shape and dimensions of the ventilation duct, you can use sheet textolite or other durable plastic 3–5 mm thick.
2. It is necessary to drill holes along the edges of the sawn plate, with the help of which it will be connected to the fan and fixed in the exhaust duct. In addition, holes must be drilled in the central part of the plate. This is necessary so that air can pass through it freely. The capacity of your ventilation system will depend on how many holes you drill in such a plate.
3. The plate should be fixed in the exhaust pipe using sealant and a sealing gasket. It is also necessary to place rubber gaskets under the places where the plate will be fixed with screws. This way you will reduce the level of noise and vibration in your ventilation system.
4. A piece of dense film is cut out according to the shape and size of the plate, the thickness of which should be at least 0.1 mm. From the film, which is glued to the plate along its edge, the flaps of a homemade check valve will be formed in the future.
5. The exhaust pipe, in which a plate with a film glued to it is already installed, must be installed in ventilation duct using dowels or screws for these purposes. After installing a check valve in the ventilation duct, it is necessary to reliably seal the gaps between the walls of the duct and the exhaust pipe.

The final stage of installing a homemade check valve in a ventilation system is cutting the film glued to the plate into two equal halves. When performing this procedure, for which it is best to use a sharp mounting knife, you must ensure that the cut is perfectly even.

The principle by which the check valve of the design proposed above works is quite simple and is as follows.

• Nothing interferes with the flow of air that passes through such a valve in the direction from the room: the flaps open and allow it to pass freely.
• When reverse draft occurs in the ventilation system, the check valve flaps close securely, preventing outside air from entering the room.

Thus, this check valve, which is of the membrane type, reliably protects the ventilated room not only from polluted and cold air, but also from foreign odors.

1, average rating: 5,00 out of 5)

Not a single modern pipeline can operate without valves, regardless of what exactly is being transported through it. These devices perform several functions at once, among which we can note protection against water hammer of sensitive equipment (pumps), regulation of pressure in the system, etc. What speaks in their favor is that the installation of such a device is extremely simple.

Valves classification

Similar devices on water pipelines (as well as gas pipelines, etc.) are used for several purposes:

• protection of equipment from pressure surges– for example, check valves are usually installed in front of pumps to prevent damage to the equipment during water hammer. Installation is carried out using detachable connections, so even if you have no experience, you can do the work yourself;

• adjustment function– water pipes are only allowed in one direction, so it will help in this situation too. As soon as the water tries to head towards reverse side, the petal will block the passage in the pipe;

• valves can also be used to regulate the pressure in the system, the boundary force is selected at which the transported medium opens the valve, as a result, as soon as the pressure in the pipeline exceeds the maximum, it will open and the pressure will equalize. The air valve on the gas pipeline is an irreplaceable thing.

This does not exhaust the functionality of shut-off and control devices; they can also be used to control pumps and when cleaning waste water, to minimize leaks, etc.

Read more about the design and principle of operation of different types of valves

IN lately in addition to conventional valves (which operate solely on the basis of the application of force), electromagnetic analogues have also appeared; they can be controlled remotely. A water solenoid valve can be used, for example, in a “smart home” system; from one remote control you can control control devices throughout the house and in the surrounding area.

Solenoid valves

The key difference from other analogues is that it does not allow water to pass through when pressure increases, but solely at the command of a person. This is their main advantage.

As for the design, the key element can be considered the coil, which, when passing through it electric current causes the core to move, which opens/closes the passage hole. Such devices can operate either from batteries (supply voltage 24V) or connected to the network (voltage 110V or 220V).

As for classification, we can distinguish:

• normally open/closed or bistable;
• Also, a 220 V solenoid water valve can perform: flow switching function (2/3 way), shut-off (2/2), three way (3/2).

Pay attention!
When choosing, you need to take into account the operating features of each model.
For example, if an electromagnetic shut-off device is produced with servo control, then you need to know that it simply will not work at zero pressure drop, so at least a minimum pressure drop is still needed.

As for the scope of application, electromagnetic devices fit perfectly into the “smart home” concept. For example, an electric water valve installed in a caisson will be able to drain automatically, without even having to leave the house, and this example is the simplest.

Simple and combined models

When operating a water pipeline, you have to solve problems such as:

• releasing air pockets from pipes that formed directly during operation;

Pay attention!
This problem especially often has to be solved when operating a heating system.
All radiators require the installation of a special valve to release excess air.

• when draining water (for example, while preserving a pipe for the winter), it is necessary to ensure an air flow that replaces the drained water in the pipe;
• When the pipe is filled, the valve must allow air to escape.

A simple Mayevsky crane with manual control can handle the release of air plugs; the price of such a device does not even reach 200 rubles.

But other types of shut-off and control valves can also be used:

• Single-function valves are used to automatically relieve excess pressure. They are used to maintain performance pumping equipment etc., except for equalizing the pressure in the system, it is not suitable for anything else;
• combined - allow you to solve all the listed problems. Their device uses a movable float; when the pipeline is filled with water, it rises and blocks large holes through which air enters; when water is drained, it also falls, the holes open and a vacuum is not created in the pipe.

Pay attention!
Also in combined devices there may be small holes to equalize pressure.

Drainage

A drain valve can be used not only in a house to discharge water from pipes, but also as a device to ensure the safety of water supply from a well. Such devices are similar in principle to combined air devices and in winter, when the pressure in the pipe decreases, they discharge water into the well.

When the pressure is above the minimum, the ball closes the outlet and water flows into the house. If the pressure drops below the minimum level, the ball opens the outlet and water flows back into the well, this allows you to preserve the system when the water in the pipe freezes.

A drain valve is useful for protecting hoses and pipes of an irrigation system; such a device is especially useful when laying a separate water supply for irrigation. If the pipe is not laid very deep and there is a risk of freezing, then the drainage pipes themselves will discharge the remaining water from the system.

Of course, you can simply install a drain valve and do the same yourself, but no one can boast of perfect memory. The valve will definitely not forget to drain the water.

As for installation, a threaded (that is, detachable) connection is most often used. Most often, the entire instruction consists of tightening the union nut by hand, and then tightening it with a wrench. In industry, welded and flanged connections can be used.

Summing up

The normal functioning of a water supply system without valves is simply impossible. It is this device that will allow you to drain water from the system and fill it again without any problems; there will also be no problems with air locks. The ease of installation of such devices only adds to their popularity.

The video in this article shows the installation of a check valve in a hot water supply pipeline.

Summer is the best season for innocent water fun in the country house and surrounding areas. Why at the dachas? Because I wouldn't use this valve at home. What are we talking about?
Let's try to figure it out.
So, let's get started!

In fact, this part of automation is still completely unexplored for me,
however, I would like to find a budget option for experimentation. Fortunately, there is a dacha and often, for certain reasons, the possibility of my presence on it does not coincide with the desired water distribution schedule... What exactly is this for?
There are a lot of options - automatically distribute water to certain areas of the dacha, automatically fill an additional container (since the water supply is limited in time, and the water pressure does not allow you to do everything at once).

1/2 thread, no external casing, cast coil, metal mesh at the entrance to the valve, water supply arrow (input-output) on the body, operating principle - membrane, under the action of a spring, closing the valve. The valve is normally closed.

The seller sends with a track that is absolutely not tracked.

Seller details:

Data from device:

I want to say right away that the seller’s data does not coincide with reality, although the data on the nameplate is more reliable (except for zero pressure).

Firstly, and this is the most important factor - for systems with low pressure the valve WILL NOT work! He needs support to open the membrane.
Secondly, the current consumed by the coil is 2! (TWO) times more - 430 mA, and during prolonged operation, it heats up significantly. True, the valve begins to open around 7-8 V.

Now let's start preparing the patient:

We unscrew the 4 screws and see: a whole cast plastic frame, a rubber valve, a cylindrical flask containing a metal core and a spring that supports the valve in a closed state. On the left in the photo is the water inlet, on the right is the outlet.
As you can see, there is a threat of leakage and there is a threat of failure due to the unprotected core and spring from rust.

PROS: simplicity of design, low cost.
DISADVANTAGES: plastic threads and housing, high current consumption, lack of additional sealant other than a rubber membrane, inability to use in systems with low pressure.

It remains to test it in combat conditions.