What does remontant variety mean? All about remontant strawberries, rules of care and propagation. After two weeks

My kids and I wait all winter for strawberry season, and when those berries finally start to turn red, we eat them by the bowlful. But then the strawberries go away... Of course, they are replaced by other berries, but still sometimes you want to eat a juicy and sweet strawberry, or cook something with these berries. No problem! The main thing is to plant a remontant variety, it will delight you all summer. With us, he doesn’t give birth very often, but regularly and continuously. I'll tell you how I care for bushes, but first I'll explain...

This word means that the plant can bear fruit several times in a row or throughout the season.. Not only strawberries can be remontant, but also raspberries, as well as citrus fruits.

Most varieties of rem strawberries bear fruit twice: the first time in July, and the second from August to September (and the second time, even more berries grow). Because of this, the bushes are under such stress that many simply die at the end of the season.

By the way! I call this berry strawberry (it’s more common), but in fact it’s correct to say garden strawberry. So if you see the name “remontant strawberry” somewhere, know that this is the same as remontant strawberry.

Growing seedlings of this crop

Yes! You can not only buy ready-made seedlings - bushes, but also grow them from purchased seeds.

This is done like this:

1. Moisten the soil for seeds thoroughly (pour up to 0.8 liters of water for every kilogram of soil). You can buy universal soil, or take light humus soil from the site.
2. Stir the soil well, breaking up any lumps.
3. Place soil in pots 10 to 15 cm in diameter. Fill them almost completely.
4. Place the seeds on top, sprinkle with a thin (this is important) layer of non-soaked soil. If you have already soaked everything by mistake, even sand will do.
5. Spray the top of the pot with a spray bottle (only the smallest one).
6. Create a “greenhouse” by covering the pot with a jar, glass, or at least film.
7. Keep the pot on a warm, bright windowsill.

When should I do this in order to be able to plant before the spring season? If you live near Moscow, Kyiv or Minsk, sow strawberries in the last week of February - the first of March. If you live in the southern region, you can start earlier - even in early February.

The room with the pot should be at least 18 degrees. As soon as the seedlings hatch, give them airing more often, and move the pot to the brightest room (or to the flowers under a phytolamp).

When the babies grow 2-3 leaves (not cotyledons), transplant them into a larger box or separate “houses”. Just don't go any deeper!

10-15 days before moving to the garden, harden the sprouts by taking them out onto the balcony or veranda for 15-20 minutes a day.

Planting strawberries

This culture loves sunny beds without puddles. The soil can be sandy loam or loamy, but not peat or turf. Fertilize it well with manure and ash. “Kaliyfos” is also suitable (a tablespoon per “square” of the garden, applied a month before planting the sprouts).

Successful predecessors: mustard, beets, garlic, radishes ( different types), carrots, parsley or legumes. And after potatoes, nightshades, cucumbers and cabbage, do not plant this crop.

Plant the “young growth” in the middle or end of May, when you are sure that there are no night frosts and they will not return. Bushes can also be planted before winter (from August to October).

You can plant it in a carpet (leaving 20 cm between the bushes on all sides) or in rows (leaving 20 cm on one side, 70 cm between the rows on the other). Choose a day that is not sunny. Transfer the seedlings to moistened holes using the transshipment method. Make the holes deep so that the roots do not curl up, and at the end press the soil down a little.

First, water the bushes every day, then take 3-day breaks.

Caring for these difficult strawberries

• Watering. Only add water that has been warmed up in the sun, in the evening and early in the morning. Make sure that the soil is wet by 3 cm (deeper is not necessary, the roots of the crop are superficial).

• Mulching. This procedure helps you save energy on carrying watering cans with water. And besides, if you cover the area with straw or black agrofibre (pictured), it will look beautiful, plus it will help you collect clean, “marketable” berries.
• Top dressing. This berry cannot live without nitrogen and potassium! Good option- mulch from manure (5 kg per “square”) or humus (2.5 kg). At the end of May, give strawberries a solution of urea (2%), and at the end of June - a solution of manure or chicken litter. “Crystallin” and “Solution” are also suitable. During the season, this crop can be fertilized up to 15 times, and not until the end of fruiting, but until late autumn.
• Transfer. If ordinary strawberries need this “procedure”, then remontant strawberries do not, this is a short-lived crop. However, if you got a “mustachioed” variety, it can reproduce itself - your task is only to plant the resulting rosettes in the right places. Well, if you really need to replant a couple of old bushes, remember: this should be done in the fall (but not too late) - if you replant them in the spring, they will not have time to produce a harvest.

• Trimming. It is done at the end of the season so that the plant does not become infected with infection or bugs. But remember: take care of the rosettes of the upper leaves; fruit buds will appear from here in the spring. Well, the tendrils can be cut off at any time (if you don’t need new strawberry bushes).
• The enemies of this culture. They are the same as garden varieties: fusarium, powdery mildew, gray rot, brown/white spots. Among the insects, the enemies of the crop are: strawberry mite, aphids, wasps, nematodes, weevils, and of course, ants. Don't forget about slugs and starlings, too.
• Wintering. After the arrival of frost and pruning, it is recommended to cover the strawberries with non-woven material. Although if your winters are warm, just cover the bed with straw, leaves or sawdust.

Do you live in one of the northern regions and are you afraid that you won’t be able to get a good harvest of such strawberries? I offer this video in which an experienced gardener shares her positive experience of growing remontant strawberries in a greenhouse following the example of Holland:

Propagation of such strawberries

In addition to the method with seeds, which was discussed above, you can propagate remontant varieties:

• Mustache. Direct the tendrils of the strongest bushes to free space in the garden bed (use the best ones, cut off the rest). They will begin to sprout - leave the first rosette, remove the rest. When the rosette becomes a strong bush, separate it from the “mother”, that is, a large bush, and transplant it to a more spacious place.
• Dividing the bush. This is a less popular method. You need to find a strong bush 2-4 years old. Dig it up in the fall or early spring, divide (the bush should have many shoots with roots). Plant in different places.

The most popular varieties

Experienced gardeners divide them into 2 categories: neutral varieties (they produce berries all the time) and long-day varieties (they produce several harvests per season). Among the remontant strawberries, there are varieties with small/large berries, beardless/mustachioed ones. And most importantly: some of them are recommended for vegetable gardens in the middle zone, and some can be grown even in the north.

Heat-loving varieties (Ukraine, Belarus, Moscow region)

• "Aromas". A variety with tasty large berries. Not afraid of many diseases (strawberry mite, powdery mildew).

• "Vima Rina" The variety was developed by the Dutch. He is NSD (neutral daylight), almost without a mustache. It produces berries from the end of June until frost. Some say they have a cherry flavor.

• "Garland". My favorite variety, although with small berries (but sweet). It can be grown in the garden or in hanging pots. It blooms and bears fruit at the same time.

• "Diamant" ("Diamond"). A variety from America, one of the most delicious. The only thing: the berries are light, so the jam they make is not the most beautiful. This plant is “mustachioed”, so it is very easy to propagate.

• "Tristan" (hybrid). Almost decorative variety With pink flowers. Blooms early, ripens all summer. Beardless.

Not afraid of cool air (Siberia)

These varieties are also suitable for the Moscow region. In northern conditions, they often have to be covered with film, but it’s worth it!

• "Ada." German variety, generous with berries and tendrils. The berries are small, have whitish flesh and a red “heart”, with sourness. Bushes are afraid of diseases and pests.

• "Mount Everest". This variety is good because it can grow on any soil. It looks a little funny, as it has large leaves, wide bushes and small berries. But he is not afraid of most insects and diseases. In the first year after planting, it grows antennae, but then stops.

• "Queen Elizabeth 2". Popular winter-hardy variety, early. The berries can be very large (up to 110 g, while the weight of most berries of other varieties is from 50 to 70 g). By the way, bushes are often sold in markets, promising “Elizabeth” and at the same time wholeheartedly deceiving, so be careful.

• "Inexhaustible." Large light pink berries, of which a lot grow on the bushes, with a very pleasant taste. Can reproduce by antennae (although they grow only a few). The only pity is that this variety is painful (for example, it is afraid of powdery mildew).

• “Russian size” (hybrid). The size of the berries is truly impressive. But they are also tasty and very juicy. The variety is not afraid of diseases and frosts.

Before we talk about remontant strawberries, let's talk about the word remontance itself, or more correctly, about its meaning. Repairability means the ability or possibility of repeated flowering or fruiting This term applies not only to plants, but also to pets.

The ability to produce several harvests per season is found in both wild strawberries and garden strawberries. Both varieties with medium-sized berries and varieties with large fruits can be remontant.

Remontant varieties of garden strawberries produce berries constantly, from mid-May until the first frost. They produce the largest harvest in the first two years of cultivation.. In subsequent years, the number of berries decreases sharply, and the entire plantation needs to be replaced.

Also, most gardeners believe that remontant strawberries are slightly inferior in taste to ordinary disposable varieties. These two factors influence the fact that remontant strawberries are grown much less frequently than ordinary ones.

It is worth noting that remontant strawberries have quite a lot of advantages, and they outweigh the disadvantages. Some varieties of this species are propagated only by seeds, others by both tendrils and seeds, which makes it possible to completely transfer the parental properties to young plants.

In our country, you can often find very old varieties obtained by crossing forest and alpine strawberries. These are varieties such as Rügen and Baron Solimacher. There are also species with medium-sized yellow and red berries.

Famous varieties of remontant strawberries (Monthly Gridneva, Monthly white and others) reproduce only by mustaches, and varieties with large berries reproduce both by dividing the bush and by the mustache. Among these varieties are Superfection, Mount Everest, Ostara, Hummi Gento.

In the regions of Central Russia, the time of continuous fruiting of remontant strawberries is about three months, and in the region of the Stavropol and Krasnodar territories - more than four months.

The reason for such a significant difference is that garden and remontant strawberries belong to various types the same plant. Remontant can form and form inflorescences with a long day of sixteen to seventeen hours of light and high temperature, and the usual one with a short day lasting ten to twelve hours and low temperature.

Remontant varieties produce more leaves and horns. Also, each horn contains many more flowers than conventional varieties. And since they develop in long day conditions, this happens much faster, that is, in just 15 - 20 days.

The first harvest of fruit from remontant strawberries ranges from fifteen to thirty percent of the total harvest. In the second collection, about seventy percent is collected.
It is worth remembering that large-fruited remontant strawberries form berries not only on the uterine tendrils, but also on the rosettes of the tendrils, which greatly increases the yield.
Good planting material and proper care will give you the opportunity to enjoy this berry for several months.

Remontant strawberries are attractive because they produce their fragrant, juicy and sweet berries throughout the summer and early autumn. True, you will have to try for this. There are many tricks and specific points in the process of planting and growing it. We will try to reveal them in more detail so that the gardener has no questions left.

Remontant strawberries and their popular varieties

Many gardeners know that garden strawberries are often mistakenly called strawberries. Without going into details of terminology, today we will talk specifically about varieties garden strawberries, its planting and cultivation. Remontant strawberry varieties are those that bear fruit throughout the entire growing season. U different varieties Fruiting can be either continuous or occur in waves.

Ali Baba

This is a beardless strawberry variety of Dutch selection with a semi-spreading bush 15-20 centimeters high. The berries are rich red in color, conical in shape and average weight of 3-5 grams. The pulp is white, aromatic with a pleasant sweet and sour taste. The number of inflorescences is 15-20 times greater than that of similar varieties. Fruiting is continuous, begins in mid-June and ends with the onset of frost. The variety is winter-hardy and drought-resistant. Is immune to fungal diseases. High-yielding.

Ali Baba - a beardless strawberry variety

Yoke

This is also a beardless variety, zoned in all regions of crop cultivation. Blooms and bears fruit continuously for up to three months. Middle lane and up to five months in the southern regions. The bush is semi-spreading, the berries are large (17-23 grams). The taste is sweet and sour, pleasant. Tasting score 4.6 points. Productivity up to 163 c/ha. Winter hardiness - high, drought resistance - average. Immunity to diseases at the level of standard varieties.

Strawberries Koketka have large berries

Seasons

A mustachioed variety, similar in quality to wild strawberries. The bush is semi-spreading, 20-25 centimeters high. The berries are aromatic, conical, rich red, sweet. Fruits twice. The first time in June brings up to 1 kg/m2, and the second time in August - up to 0.5 kg/m2. The variety is ampelous, that is, it bears fruit not only on the plant itself, but also on the runners.

Strawberry Seasons bears fruit not only on the plant but also on the mustache

Garland

A very early and productive mustachioed variety. The bush is spherical, medium density. Flowering and fruiting are continuous. It begins in May until the end of rooting of the rosettes and ends in October. The berries are conical, very large, with an average weight of 26-32 grams. The taste is excellent, tasting score 4.1 points. The yield per season exceeds 1 kg per bush or 616 c/ha.

Garland strawberries have an average weight of 26-32 grams

Elizabeth

Early mustachioed variety. The bush is erect, semi-spreading. The berries are large, but by the fourth year of cultivation they become very small. Tasting taste score 4.7 points. Fruits in waves. The first flowering occurs in May, and the berries ripen in June. The second wave is harvested in August, and the third in October. The average yield is 350 c/ha. The winter hardiness of the variety is average, immunity to diseases and pest damage is above average.

Elizaveta strawberries have very large berries

Lyubasha

Early ripening variety. The bush is powerful, semi-spreading, well-leafed, without mustache. The berries are red, conical, large (with an average weight of 12 to 23 grams). The taste is sweet with aroma. Tasting score - 4.9 points. Productivity is low - 104 c/ha. The variety has high winter hardiness, average drought resistance and heat resistance. Immunity to major fungal diseases at the level of standard varieties.

Lyubasha strawberries are grown in seedlings

This culture requires a lot of attention. Before you start planting it, you should carefully study the rules.

Choosing a place for strawberries on the site

Strawberries grow and develop well in sunlit or slightly shaded areas. In dense shade it will bear fruit poorly, and the berries will grow small and tasteless. It is important to follow the principles of crop rotation. Strawberries cannot be planted after the following crops:

• potato;
• cabbage;
• cucumbers;
• pepper;
• eggplants.

The best predecessors for it are:

• carrot;
• salad;
• garlic;
• beet;
• grain crops;
• green manure;
• radish;
• peas;
• beans.

The site is chosen to be flat or with a slight slope to the southwest. In the lowlands, strawberries will wither away, so they should not be planted there. The optimal level of soil acidity is pH 5.5, the maximum permissible is pH 4.5. Highly acidic or alkaline soils are not suitable for growing strawberries. Best results Planted on light loams and sandy loams. All other soils must be improved before planting.

Soil preparation

Soil preparation begins in the fall. The area is cleared of weeds, and it’s even better if green manure is grown on it before:

• mustard;
• peas;
• phacelia;
• barley;
• lupine;
• alfalfa, etc.

If green manure has been grown, it should be mowed and left on the site. Then humus or compost is evenly scattered at the rate of one bucket for each square meter, wood ash in the amount of 3-5 l/m2 and superphosphate - 30-40 g/m2. If the soil is too acidic, add fluff lime 0.5 kg/m2. After this, the soil is plowed or dug up using a spade, turning over the layers of earth. There is no need to break the clods - this is done in the spring before planting.

Video: preparing the soil for planting strawberries

Planting scheme for remontant strawberries

It is more convenient to plant and grow remontant strawberries using a two-line bush pattern. Moreover, each tape consists of two lines located at a distance of 30 centimeters, and plants are planted in them with an interval of 25-30 centimeters. The gap between the tapes is usually chosen to be 70 centimeters.

It is more convenient to plant and grow remontant strawberries using a two-line bush pattern

Landing dates

Remontant strawberries should be planted during the period of active root growth. This happens twice:

• In spring, when the soil warms up to 12-15 °C.
• In summer, late July-early August.

Spring planting is preferable, since in this case the first (albeit small) harvest can be obtained in the current season, and also at this time the plants take root and take root faster. Summer planting (especially in areas with a hot climate) involves additional labor costs for frequent watering, loosening the soil and shading unrooted plants from the hot sun.

Planting remontant strawberries

In the spring, as soon as the soil warms up enough and the threat has passed return frosts, you can start planting. It is better to do this in the late afternoon, before sunset. This process is simple and it looks like this:

Video: a method for quickly planting strawberries under agrofibre

Caring for remontant strawberries

This culture is quite demanding to care for.

Watering

This is the most important stage caring for remontant strawberries. It should never dry out, but it should not create swamps either. In the first 7-10 days after planting the seedlings (this is especially true for summer planting), the beds are watered and loosened every other day. Water in the evening, loosen the next day in the afternoon or evening (it is clear that when using covering material for mulching, loosening is excluded). Watering rate is 2-3 liters per bush. After this time, the soil is mulched with humus, compost, pine litter, etc. Subsequently, the need for watering is determined based on the degree of soil moisture - it must be constantly moist at a depth of three to five centimeters. During the ripening period, it is advisable to water strawberries at the root to avoid fungal diseases and rot. It is very convenient to use a drip irrigation system for these purposes.

It is very convenient to use a drip irrigation system for watering strawberries.

Feeding

As a rule, varieties of remontant strawberries have high yields. This requires a significant amount of power.

When applying fertilizers, you need to ensure a balanced diet and avoid overdoses. Excessive use of nitrogen is especially dangerous. An excess of this element leads to rapid growth of green mass and a decrease in the number of berries, as well as to the accumulation of nitrates in them.

Table: fertilizers applied when planting and fertilizing remontant strawberries

Some gardeners prefer to use ready-made complex fertilizer mixtures that contain all the necessary macro- and microelements. In this case, you need to follow the instructions included with each specific fertilizer. When purchasing, you should give preference to well-known brands. The following can be recommended:

• Agricola;
• Clean slate;
• Robin Green;
• Florovit;
• Good power.

Photo gallery: complex fertilizers for strawberries

Complex fertilizer for strawberries Agricola Complex fertilizer of the brand Clean Leaf increases the resistance of strawberries to diseases Robin Green fertilizer provides strawberries with all the necessary nutrients Bui fertilizers are a well-known and reliable brand Polish fertilizer Florovit is designed specifically for feeding strawberries Fertilizer for strawberries Good Power includes all the necessary elements and vitamins

Pruning remontant strawberries

During the season, the tendrils are periodically removed (unless they are required for propagation) so that they do not take away the plant's strength. Dried and damaged leaves are also removed during the season. After the end of fruiting, you should cut off the fruiting stalks and some of the old leaves, leaving 3-5 pieces on each plant. Complete pruning of leaves in autumn for remontant strawberries is not carried out. Leaves and tendrils are cut with scissors or pruning shears at the base, trying to leave the petioles as short as possible.

Sheltering remontant strawberries for the winter

Even frost-resistant strawberry varieties are prone to freezing, especially in regions with little snowy winters and unstable weather conditions. Therefore, the beds need to be insulated for the winter, using existing suitable materials. Well suited for these purposes:

In regions with snowy winters, additional shelter may not be used - snow perfectly protects strawberries from frost.

Protection against pests and diseases of remontant strawberries

Modern varieties of remontant strawberries usually have average or increased resistance to fungal diseases, but the risk of damage always remains.

The most common diseases of remontant strawberries

Since strawberries are grown in conditions of constant moisture, they are often created for the development of fungal diseases. favorable conditions. Their prevention consists of the following measures:

• Tilling the soil before planting with a 2% solution of copper sulfate. The beds are treated with the same solution immediately after the snow melts before the plants awaken from winter sleep.
• Disinfection of seedlings with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Adult plants are treated with the same solution before flowering.
• After flowering, apply 1-2 treatments with Horus or Teldor fungicides, and this is done no later than 10 days before the berries ripen.
• Throughout the season, you can use Fitosporin-M, which is a safe biofungicide. The berries are suitable for consumption on the day of processing.
• Weed control.
• Avoiding dense plantings.
• Timely pruning of diseased leaves and flower stalks.

Gray rot

The spores of the pathogenic fungus overwinter in the affected fruits, leaves, and peduncles. Therefore, they need to be promptly removed and burned. The first signs of the disease are:

It is quite difficult to fight the disease; its prevention is more effective.

Brown spot

The spores of the causative agent of this disease also overwinter in dry leaves. The disease manifests itself in the spring when conditions are favorable for it (warm, damp weather, dense plantings). The second wave of infection occurs in August and the third in September. At first, barely noticeable spots appear on the leaves, which subsequently grow and acquire a red or brick color with a brown tint. Then the leaves turn completely red and dry out. Such leaves must be promptly removed and burned, and the plants treated with biofungicides.

Strawberry leaves affected by brown spot turn red and dry out

Powdery mildew

Fungal spores germinate at temperatures of 18-23 °C and air humidity of 70%. First of all, a white powdery coating appears on the leaves and petioles of rosettes. The disease quickly spreads to peduncles, tendrils and berries. Affected vascular system leaves causing them to turn brown with a rusty coating. Then they curl up and dry out. The berries first turn white, crack, and juice flows out of them. Further, they rot, turn brown and dry out. In the hot season, at air temperatures above +35 °C, the fungus dies. Prevention and treatment are similar to previous diseases.

When strawberries are infected powdery mildew first of all white coating appears on leaves and petioles of rosettes

Pests of remontant strawberries

Pests can cause significant damage to crops and sometimes lead to plant death.

Strawberry mite

See this dangerous pest impossible with the naked eye, since its size does not exceed 0.2 mm. The lesion can be diagnosed by the following signs:

To finally verify the correctness of the diagnosis, you need to examine the affected leaf using a professional optical instrument with a magnification factor of at least eight.

To prevent strawberry mite damage during the mass egg-laying period (early May), strawberries are treated with the effective acaricide Neoron, which will protect the plants for up to six weeks.

Neoron will protect strawberries from mites for up to six weeks

During the fruiting period, Fitoverm is used to control the pest, which is a biological preparation with a waiting period of only two days from the last treatment to the consumption of the berries.

Fitoverm can be used two days before harvesting strawberries

Spider mite

You can detect spider mites by the web with which they weave around strawberry leaves.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberries are a very productive crop and, as a result, their bushes degenerate quite quickly. Unlike ordinary garden strawberries, which are replaced after four years (and there are varieties that bear fruit for up to seven years), the fruiting period of remontant strawberries is three years. Therefore, already in the fourth year, spent bushes should be removed and new ones planted instead. In practice, you have to plant strawberries every year, having three beds for this. The scheme of work is as follows:

1. In the spring of the first year, strawberries are planted in the first bed and the first small harvest is obtained.
2. The next year, a second bed is planted, which will also produce a certain amount of berries. And the first one produces the main harvest this year.
3. In the third year, strawberries are planted in the third bed. This year, the main harvest is harvested from the second, and the first completes fruiting. In the fall, old bushes are removed from it and the bed is prepared for planting new seedlings in the spring.
4. Thus, a continuous conveyor of annual stable fruiting is obtained.

For these purposes, the gardener needs to have a certain amount every spring. planting material. It is more profitable to produce it yourself and there are three ways to do this.

Usami

If a strawberry variety has tendrils (side shoots), then you can use them to obtain the required number of seedlings while maintaining varietal characteristics. They do it like this:

Video: propagation of strawberries with mustaches

Dividing the bush

Remontant varieties of strawberries often do not have runners. In this case, the propagation method is used by dividing the bush (particulation). At the same time, varietal characteristics are also preserved. Unlike the previous one, this method allows you to use fruit-bearing bushes for propagation, while simultaneously obtaining a harvest from them. This can be done both in spring and autumn, after fruiting. Usually, plants in the third year of life are used to divide the bush. The sequence of actions is as follows:

Video: propagation of strawberries by dividing the bush

Seedlings grown from seeds

This method is used less frequently, since it is more troublesome and does not guarantee the preservation of varietal characteristics. Seeds for seedlings can be purchased at the store or collected yourself. You should know that they retain germination capacity for no more than one year and it is no more than 50-60%.

To collect the seeds yourself, select several ripe berries and cut off a thin surface layer of pulp from them with a blade. Dry the resulting strips in a warm place, avoiding direct contact with sun rays. After this, rub the dried pulp with your fingers, separating the seeds from it. The algorithm for growing seedlings from seeds looks like this:

Storing planting material before planting in the ground

If winter storage of planting material is necessary, then at the end of September the plants are tied in bunches and placed in boxes, at the bottom of which wet moss is first placed. The boxes are covered with lids and sent to the basement. Optimal storage conditions are:

• humidity within 85-90%;
• air temperature within +2-6 °C.

Storing strawberry seedlings using Frigo technology

IN lately The method of storing strawberry seedlings using Frigo technology is becoming more and more widespread. Its essence is as follows:

Short-term storage of seedlings before planting

Sometimes it happens that purchased strawberry seedlings cannot be immediately planted in the garden. In this case, it is better to dip the roots of the seedlings in a mixture of mullein and clay, and then place them in a humid environment - sand, sawdust, moss, etc. Such seedlings can be stored in a cool place for 2-3 days.

Methods for growing remontant strawberries in limited areas

In cramped conditions, when the plot is small and there is not enough space for everything, gardeners resort to various tricks and tricks.

Growing in boxes and boxes

Remontant strawberries are often grown in various containers (boxes, baskets, buckets, flowerpots, etc.), placing them in vertical plane, which gives an increase in planting area. The advantages of this method are obvious:

• Containers with plants become mobile beds - they can always be moved to a new location.
• In the fall, they can be brought onto the veranda or into the greenhouse, thereby extending the fruiting period for some time.
• The berries do not come into contact with the ground, which virtually eliminates fungal diseases.
• Pests - beetles, slugs, mole crickets - also cannot reach the plants.
• Vertical beds are an excellent decoration for a site.
• Berry picking simplified.

Any suitable container with a depth of at least 15-20 centimeters is suitable for this method. The bottom must be perforated to prevent moisture stagnation. The landing process is not difficult and is no different from landing indoor plants. As usual, a small drainage layer (expanded clay, crushed stone, etc.) is placed at the bottom of the container and filled with nutritious soil mixture. It should be loose and fertile. Plants are planted according to an already known algorithm and the boxes are placed in right place. When caring for strawberries, more frequent watering will be required, since the soil in the boxes dries out much faster than in the garden bed. Regular feeding is also needed, since in a limited volume of soil with abundant fruiting, nutrients are quickly consumed.

Photo gallery: options for growing remontant strawberries in various containers

Picking strawberries grown in boxes hung on the wall is greatly simplified A mobile bed with strawberries can be easily moved to a new location The fence plane can also be used for growing strawberries You can grow strawberries in a pyramid An old chest of drawers is an original place for growing strawberries Suspended in flower pot, strawberries are a wonderful interior decoration

Growing in pipes

To grow strawberries in limited areas, plastic containers have recently begun to be increasingly used. sewer pipes with holes cut in them for bushes. Let's briefly describe this method.

The principle is that plastic pipes with a diameter of 110-200 mm are filled with nutritious soil, after having previously cut holes in them. A perforated water pipe with a diameter of 20-30 mm is also placed inside this pipe to supply irrigation water and liquid fertilizers. Pipes prepared in this way can be installed both horizontally and vertically. You can post them on outdoors and in the greenhouse. You should know that due to the small volume of soil, watering and fertilizing will be required quite often. Moreover best way application of fertilizers - in liquid form during irrigation. With this method of growing, it is best to use automation systems used in hydroponics for watering and fertilizing.

Hydroponics (from hydro - water and other Greek πόνος, pónos - work) is a method of growing plants in artificial media without soil. The plant gets its nutrition from the nutrient solution surrounding the roots. The supply of nutrient solution is easily automated.

Wikipedia

https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroponics

Photo gallery: growing strawberries in pipes

It’s easy to make your own structure for growing strawberries in vertical pipes Strawberries are grown in horizontal pipes usually three tiers Pipes for growing strawberries can be placed in a greenhouse

Planting and growing remontant strawberries will require a lot of knowledge and effort from the gardener. But with due diligence and diligence, the result should please you with abundant and regular harvests of healthy and tasty berries.

Many people prefer to plant only these, but there are also those who do not welcome their cultivation on their own. What are the features of remontant plants and what are they?

What is remontant: differences between remontant and ordinary varieties of strawberries, raspberries, wild strawberries

Repairability means the ability of a plant to flower and, accordingly, bear fruit several times in one season. The term comes from the French word "remontant", which means "to rise again."

Not only the designated garden ones have this feature, but also their wild counterparts. It is also characteristic of some other plant species. Distinctive feature of such plants - most often the fruits are not inferior in size to non-repairing plants, regardless of how many harvests the plant produces per season.

However, it is often noted in descriptions of remontant that it has less pronounced taste characteristics. Another problem is that such plants do not live long - an average of two years.

Did you know? English-language literature uses other terms regarding similar varieties: fall-bearing - bearing fruit in the fall, everbearing - continuously bearing fruit, autumn-fruiting - autumn-fruiting.

Popular varieties of remontant berries

There are a huge variety of similar types of berries. They have their own characteristics in cultivation and productivity.

Strawberry

garden berry This type produces a harvest twice a year, but pays for it with smaller ones that do not have such a pronounced taste. The bush has weak foliage and is short-lived. However, a lot of similar species have been bred. The best remontant is obtained from the following:

• "Mitse Nova", which has sweeter berries compared to other multi-harvest varieties;
• "White Dream", the berries of which have a flavor;
• "Arapahoe" is a large-fruited and high-yielding species bred in the USA;
• "Lyubasha" - comparatively new look universal use, ripens early, frost-resistant.

Important! The yield ratio for such varieties is usually 30% on the first pass and 70% on the second.

Be prepared for the fact that remontant bushes will periodically become bare in different places. The fact is that after the first harvest, some of the bushes die. The process continues with each subsequent harvest. The maximum that a remontant bush can live is three years.

Strawberries

Signs of repair are observed in both garden and forest varieties. At the same time, it can produce fruits of medium and large sizes. It begins to bear fruit in mid-May and continues until the first frost. However, the largest harvest can only be harvested in the first two years of the plant's life. Then gradually its strength sharply fades away, and the plantation has to be completely replaced.

Many gardeners note that remontant varieties are noticeably inferior in taste to ordinary ones. However, they willingly grow and propagate their various varieties. The most popular can be called “Monthly White” and “Monthly Gridneva”, which reproduce only by mustaches. Among those that can also be propagated by dividing the bush, it is worth noting “Hummi Gento”, “Ostara”, “Mount Everest”.

Raspberry

Typically, such varieties are planted in order to obtain several harvests one after another, up to. But it is believed that the autumn harvest is much inferior in its taste characteristics, since during the first summer the plant gives up most of its internal resources.

Today, remontant has a wide variety of varieties. When choosing, you need to focus on the soil and climatic requirements of each. On average, they produce a harvest of 1.7–3.7 kg of fruit per bush. Varieties such as “Elegantnaya”, “Ruby Necklace”, “Bryanskoe Miracle”, “Atlant” can produce more than 20 tons per bush.

Productivity depends on the average weight of berries, their number on one shoot, and the number of such shoots on one bush. In addition, productivity is also affected by climatic conditions, which allow or do not allow the entire crop to ripen on the bush.

Therefore, in the northern regions they usually prefer to grow varieties such as “Eurasia”, “”, “Bryanskoe Divo”, which in cool conditions manage to produce approximately 1.3–1.6 kg per bush. “Diamond” and “Indian Summer” bear fruit the worst in such conditions. Their productivity averages 1 kg per bush.

Important! When purchasing seedlings, check with the seller what remontant raspberries are. In relation to this berry, the term may have a different meaning - a variety that bears fruit on both annual and biennial shoots.

The difficulty of growing a remontant plant lies in its propagation using traditional methods. As a rule, such varieties produce few replacement shoots, which creates a shortage of planting material. On the other hand, they are easier to care for.

Typically, such plants are planted on the south side in the sunniest and warmest areas of the garden in order to obtain bountiful harvest. But if we are talking about the southern regions, then they can be planted in partial shade, even shade. It is desirable that the soil is fertile and loose. But still, after watering, it is advisable to loosen it and remove weeds.

To smooth out the possible disadvantages of remontant varieties (low yield, loss of taste and external qualities), some gardeners prefer to abandon the first harvest. Still, it is not as significant as the second one. Therefore, they mercilessly cut off the first flower stalks.