Caring for strawberries in August and September. How to feed strawberries in August after pruning and harvesting. Organic or mineral mixtures How to properly care for strawberries after fruiting

Pruning strawberries after fruiting and harvesting is one of the mandatory activities, the implementation of which not only provides an impressive (30 to 40%) increase in the yield of this crop next year, but also improves appearance and taste qualities of berries.

Competent and high-quality processing of plantings guarantees the production of especially large, juicy and sweet fruits.

Pruning strawberries helps:

Without resorting to the use of chemicals, prevent the occurrence of dangerous infectious diseases (gray rot, blight, powdery mildew) to which this crop is susceptible.
Significantly facilitate weeding of plantings.
Create optimal conditions for the natural release of the surface of the ridges from pathogenic fungi by improving air circulation in bushes with bare bases. Removing diseased and old leaves helps disinfect the soil due to its good ventilation and warming by sunlight.
Create obstacles for successful development strawberry mite - a microscopic pest that loves dampness and lives at the base of leaf petioles.

Trimming methods

Pruning strawberry bushes after harvest can be:

complete (total);
partial (selective).

From complete removal It is better to discard leaves from strawberry bushes, since total pruning contributes to the rapid depletion of plants, which spend all their energy not on laying fruit buds for the future harvest and storing nutrients, but on increasing green mass.

It is advisable to completely mow the leaves only if the strawberry plantings have been severely damaged by insect pests or fungal infections.

During partial pruning after harvesting, you must first remove all (including healthy) leaves lying on the ground. After this, having carefully examined the bush, remove old, dried and diseased (speckled with spots, specks and dots) leaves of the upper tiers.

It is better to leave young and healthy leaves. You shouldn’t touch this year’s bushes either: they need to get stronger and gain strength.

Cut leaves that are infected with disease and are likely to contain insect pests should be burned immediately. They are not suitable for composting or using as mulching material.

If the gardener does not plan to start propagating strawberries, throughout the entire growing season he must remove its creeping shoots (whiskers), cutting them as close to the middle of the leaf rosette as possible.

Basic rules for pruning

Pruning strawberries after harvest requires conscious action, since thoughtless removal of leaves can harm the plants:

Despite the fact that some gardeners call it mowing, the use of a scythe, lawn mower or sickle in this case is completely unacceptable. This is exceptional handmade, requiring the use of sharpened garden tools: pruners, scissors or a knife.
To avoid mechanical damage to the root system of plants, manually plucking leaves is strictly prohibited. Damaged bushes will hurt, take a long time to recover and probably will not bear much fruit.
In order to prevent pathogens of dangerous infections from penetrating into the base of the bushes, you cannot cut the leaves right down to the root. The length of the petioles left must be at least 5 centimeters.
Pruning should only be done in dry weather. Treated bushes are watered exclusively at the root. Watering by sprinkling can be used only after the wounds remaining after pruning have completely healed.
Treatment should begin with beds where healthy and young plants grow, gradually moving to older and problematic plantings. The beds in which some bushes show signs of wilting or infection by viral diseases should be treated last, disinfecting the tools used as often as possible, using a strong solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate.
Since the main purpose of pruning is to clean the plantings from insect pests and pathogens of dangerous infections, the cut leaves must be carefully collected and burned immediately. Put them in compost pit not recommended (unless they fall into the deepest layers that will not be used within the next five years).

Deadlines

Any pruning of green mass greatly injures and weakens the strawberry, but there is a period during which its bushes are able to quickly recover, painlessly enduring the removal of almost the entire above-ground part.

This period begins 7-10 days after the cessation of fruiting (usually at the end of July). The optimal timing for pruning strawberries in regions where snow cover occurs in early or mid-November expires by mid-August.

It is by this time that gardeners in the Moscow region, the Urals, the northwestern and central parts of Russia, Siberia, the Far East and Altai need to complete the work of processing strawberry ridges. Strawberry pruning is delayed somewhat (until quality is obtained) planting material) only if the whiskers for its propagation are supposed to be taken from a fruit-bearing plantation.

Such strict deadlines are explained by the fact that strawberries need at least 2-3 months of active growing season to grow new leaf apparatus and prepare for winter, since it is the leaves that provide the process of photosynthesis, which affects the development of the root system, annual horns and the formation of fruit buds.

If for some reason the optimal timing for pruning the berry tree has been missed, it is carried out in a gentle manner, which involves removing only the lower and affected (covered with white coating, spots and uncharacteristic redness) leaves.

Step by step instructions

The method of pruning strawberries after harvesting is extremely simple: grasping the bush with one hand, with a sharply sharpened tool, cut off its entire above-ground part (including leaves, unnecessary tendrils and dead peduncles).

As a result, cuttings of leaf petioles sticking out above the ground remain on the ridge (their height - in order to avoid damage to the growth buds in the center of annual horns and hearts of strawberry bushes - should be at least 8 cm) and young leaves that have barely appeared.

Drastic pruning of all foliage is unacceptable, since bushes that have not had time to grow green mass will go into winter weakened and, unable to withstand the cold, will simply freeze out.

The cut leaves are carefully combed out using a rake.

From the quality of bush processing and compliance optimal timing Their pruning depends on the fertility of the strawberry plantation in the coming season.

Caring for strawberries after fruiting and harvesting

Caring for Victoria during the period after fruiting includes:

Removing dry and diseased leaves from the ridges, as well as a layer of old mulch containing pathogens of dangerous infections and insect pests.
Thorough weeding of weeds that take away nutrients from plants.
Trimming old foliage and mustache.
Ruthless destruction of bushes infected with strawberry nematode (to prevent the spread of this pest).
Thorough loosening of the soil between rows.
Watering plantings (during drought).
Preventive treatment of bushes against infections and pests.
Periodic application of fertilizers.
Mulching the soil.

Loosening the soil

In order not to damage the strawberry roots, loosen the soil in the beds only in the rows, immersing the tool to a depth of 70 mm.
Having finished loosening the beds, it is advisable to hill up the strawberries, paying special attention plants with a bare root system (as a rule, this is typical for 2-3-year-old bushes) and making sure that the soil does not cover the growth point (the so-called “heart”), located in the very center of the bush.

Watering rules

In order for the treated bushes to quickly recover, increasing root system, green mass and laying fruit buds, the soil on the strawberry plantation should be moist.
In dry weather, strawberry beds should be watered at least once a week (watering should be plentiful). Immediately after pruning, it is necessary to water the treated bushes not by sprinkling, but by pouring.
To prevent growing leaves from being damaged by sunburn, you need to water strawberries either in the morning or in the evening.
After watering, the soil in the beds must be loosened, preventing the formation of a hard crust on its surface.
To ensure that the soil under the bushes always remains loose and moist, it is advisable to mulch the plantation.

Mulching strawberry beds

Mulching the soil is an extremely useful manipulation that promotes:

loosening the soil in the beds;
accumulation of nutrients and enrichment of the soil with many beneficial microorganisms (due to the decomposition of mulching material);
growth containment weeds, which greatly facilitates plant care;
a more aesthetic appearance of berry beds.

Suitable mulch material for planting strawberries is:

needles;
sawdust;
leaf humus;
straw;
chopped dry grass left over from mowing the lawn and previously dried in the sun.

As a mulching material, you can use spunbond (preferably black, which prevents the growth of weeds), covering it raised beds, intended for new plantings of strawberries.

Pest and disease control

It is advisable to subject the fruiting strawberry bushes to chemical treatment designed to destroy pests and combat all kinds of diseases, since during the fruiting period the possibility of its implementation was absolutely excluded.

Before you begin chemical treatment of strawberry bushes, you need to rid them of diseased, old, dry and pest-damaged leaves:

After removing the damaged foliage, the petioles remaining from it, as well as the soil under the strawberry bushes, are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This measure prevents the occurrence of fungal infections.
You can guess that the plantings are infested with strawberry mites by the presence of leaves, the surface of which resembles corrugated paper. To combat it, you can use anti-tick drugs "Aktellik", "Tiovit Jet", "Fitoverm", "Fufanon", "Kemifos" and an aqueous solution of colloidal sulfur, acting in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Active rotting of berries indicates damage to the bushes by gray rot. In this case, the bed must be treated with a solution of copper oxychloride.
The presence of yellowish leaves localized in the center of strawberry bushes, distinguished by unusually thick petioles, is evidence of their damage by a nematode. As experience shows, in this case, any attempts (including spraying with chemicals) to save the plants are completely useless, so they must be destroyed. The beds on which the affected bushes grew must be watered a large number boiling water
To combat the raspberry-strawberry weevil, strawberry plantings should be treated twice with a solution of the drug "Intavir". The interval between treatments should be at least 14 days. Good results are obtained by spraying the beds with a solution prepared from ten drops of iodine and 10 liters of water.
The presence of brown spots on strawberry leaves can be a consequence of viral infections. You can cope with them by spraying the leaves with a solution of Bordeaux mixture.
Pest and disease control of strawberries can be combined with foliar feeding bushes if you add fertilizer to the tank mixture used.

In order to prevent the development of diseases, strawberry plantings must be regularly inspected, immediately removing diseased leaves and getting rid of diseased plants, using a weak solution of potassium permanganate to water the soil in the garden bed.

Feeding fertilized strawberries

Towards the end of the fruiting period, weakened strawberry bushes, which have devoted all their strength to the fruits of the new harvest, are especially in need of fertilizing. Only with their help will plants be able to fully recover and establish sufficient quantity flower buds.

After harvest experienced gardeners feed strawberries at least three times:

Immediately after pruning the affected leaves (at the end of July or at the beginning of August), the strawberries are fed with nitrogen fertilizers. This measure will accelerate the growth of young leaves.
After two weeks, a second feeding is carried out, consisting of adding organic matter enriched with potassium and phosphorus. This feeding stimulates the formation of flower (or fruit) buds.
About a month later (in mid-September), the strawberries are fed a third time, using a mullein solution.

Fertilizers can be organic or mineral.

The most popular mineral supplements:

“Ammofoska” is a complex fertilizer containing four main components: potassium, phosphorus, sulfur and nitrogen. It can be embedded in the soil using a hoe, scattering dry granules over the surface of the strawberry bed (at the rate of 20-30 g per square meter), and then watered. Ammophoska can be dissolved in water ( matchbox a bucket of water) and water the plants from a watering can.
“Nitroammofoska” and “Nitrophoska” are used in the form of an aqueous solution prepared from one tablespoon of fertilizer per 10 liters of water.
Specialized fertilizers for garden strawberries: “Ogorodnik”, “Kristalon”, “Fertika”.
An aqueous solution of a mixture prepared from potassium sulfate, superphosphate and ammonium nitrate (in a ratio of 1:3:1).

Gardeners should be aware that to feed strawberries, they cannot use fertilizers that contain chlorine, which is harmful to this crop.

The most popular organic fertilizers used for feeding strawberries include:

Vermicompost. It is poured directly to the roots of strawberry bushes.
A solution of mullein, prepared from one part of manure and ten parts of water and infused for 24 hours, after which it is used to apply it under strawberry bushes. To enrich the infusion with additional microelements, experienced gardeners add one part of wood ash to it.
Infusion of bird droppings. It is not recommended to apply bird droppings under growing bushes in dry form: this can cause burns to the roots and death of the plants. To prepare the infusion, bird droppings are diluted with water (in a ratio of 1 to 10) and infused for at least 48 hours. After this, diluting one liter of the finished infusion with ten liters of water, use it to water the strawberries.
An herbal infusion made from nettles and other weeds left over from weeding. Having placed the herb in a large barrel (approximately up to the middle of its volume), add a little wood ash to it, add water to the very edges and leave it in a sunny place for fermentation for ten days. To speed up fermentation and enrich the infusion with beneficial microorganisms, you can add 200 g of yeast to the barrel. The finished herbal infusion is diluted with water (in a ratio of 1 to 1) and used for watering strawberry beds. It not only feeds the strawberries, but also helps deoxidize the garden soil.
Wood ash, rich in microelements and used to reduce soil acidity in garden beds. After trimming the strawberries, sprinkle the soil with wood ash (at the rate of: two-liter jar for each square meter), after which it is watered and loosened. Since wood ash is incompatible with fresh manure, the simultaneous use of these fertilizers is unacceptable.

When fertilizing strawberry beds, you should remember not to overfeed it. Otherwise, it will begin to “fatten”, actively increasing the green mass and refusing to lay flower buds. Experienced gardeners say that underfeeding strawberries is better than overfeeding them.

Preparing plantings for winter

Preparing strawberry beds for winter consists of adding mulching material (peat or sawdust) under the bushes. The thickness of the mulch layer should be at least 5 cm. The use of straw or hay as mulch should be avoided, as they can attract mice that can chew the roots.
In order to reduce the pressure of snow cover on plants, at the end of November they are covered with raspberry branches or spruce branches.
You can protect strawberries from severe frosts by covering them with a thick layer of dry foliage.

To get a good harvest of selected strawberries in the future, they need to be properly processed after harvesting in the present. Namely: trim the mustache and excess leaves, or even mow them down; spray for diseases; fill with fertilizers, carry out water-recharging irrigation.

When the bushes bear fruit, they need restoration. But the plants continue to be depleted due to the runners and old leaves, somewhere withered and beaten by rain or hail. Therefore, on the plantation of the second or third year, they must be removed with pruning shears. If this is done immediately after picking the berries, then the young bushes will have enough time to:

have time to increase green mass;
accumulate nutrients;
go into winter with a reserve of energy for the future harvest.

Removing whiskers and old strawberry leaves

Sockets that are unnecessary but have already taken root should also be removed. If you like a particularly productive bush, its rosettes can be transplanted to a new ridge.

On five-year-old, especially infected plantations, complete mowing is allowed. This does not mean that you need to take your scythe and go to the berry patch. Simply use sharp pruning shears to remove all above-ground parts of the plants, leaving petioles 5 cm wide and without affecting the dense and green “heart” at the base of the roots.

If the plantation has been infected with fungal infections, then experienced gardeners, after mowing, “walk” through the plants and the ground around them, and also blowtorch. This must be done quickly, without lingering on each bush for more than 1 second.

It is better for beginners not to resort to such extreme methods, but to lay new beds in a timely manner.
New tendrils that grow in the future continue to be regularly removed, but new growing leaves are no longer touched.

Processing strawberries after fruiting

When everything unnecessary has been removed from the beds - leaves, tendrils, weeds, the ground must be disinfected copper sulfate or diluted potassium permanganate. The color of the solution should be crimson. This must be done, trying not to get it on the plants, but to be sure, it is better to lightly water it after treatment. clean water from a watering can with a sprayer.

After a day or two, strawberries need to be fed with one of the mineral complexes:

Nitrophoska;
Ammophoska;
Azofoska.

These fertilizers are suitable if time is not lost - no later than the end of July. If it happens in August, then
nitrogen fertilizers are excluded and then mixed for feeding:

superphosphate;
potassium sulfate;
ash.

Fertilizers can be applied either dry during the next loosening of the soil, or in dissolved form.

Until the end of summer, you need to continue to remove new tendrils, leaving healthy leaves; weed, loosen and water. You can cover the soil between the bushes and between the rows with a layer of mulch. Then there will be no need for loosening, watering will be reduced, and weed growth will weaken.

Treatment for pests and diseases after harvest

Biological products are used to treat and prevent fungal diseases:

Fitosporin-M. A microbiological agent that quickly spreads through the vessels of plants instantly affects the causative agents of many bacterial and fungal diseases.
Alirin-B. Used for the treatment and prevention of gray rot, rust, scab, powdery mildew, root rot, etc. In addition, it can reduce soil toxicity.
Verticillin. The biological insecticide is most effective against the complex of aphids, whiteflies and thrips.

After treatment with microbiological substances, the fruits can be removed without waiting for a certain period of time.

The most effective chemicals against pests are:

It should be remembered that after treating with insecticides, you need to wait two weeks and only then remove the fruits. Therefore, it is better to use them before setting berries and after harvesting.

Folk remedies

Available, inexpensive, environmentally friendly, safe for plants and humans, components have always been used by gardeners for processing strawberries during the entire growing season.

Powdery mildew

The fungus appears as a white coating on all above-ground parts of the plant, oppressing the bush and reducing winter hardiness. It spreads quickly throughout the entire area of plantings. The disease appears at increased rates of nitrogen fertilizers, increased soil humidity and temperature.

You can fight it with:

Soap-salt solution. Take 40-50 g of both per bucket of water. Treatment is carried out weekly.
Whey (yogurt or kefir). For 9 liters of water, 1 liter of fermented milk product. Treatment – once every 5-7 days.
Mustards. Water or spray with a solution of mustard (2 tbsp) in water (10 l).
Horsetail. Take 100 g of herb per liter of water, let it brew for a day, then bring it to a temperature of 60 degrees over low heat and cool. Dilute with water 4 times and spray strawberries once a week for a month.

Mustard solution for processing strawberries

Gray rot

Towards the end of summer, when the temperature drops and the humidity, on the contrary, increases, the gray mold.

Berries that come into contact with the soil are the first to become infected. They become covered with a gray fluffy coating and smell like mold. The disease spreads very quickly and can destroy most of the crop.

Iodine is popularly considered the most effective remedy in the fight against gray rot. It (1 ml) is diluted in water (5 l) and sprayed on green berries after harvesting.

Iodine to save strawberries from gray rot

In addition to iodine, you can use the following recipe:

a glass of ash;
a glass of chalk;
a teaspoon of copper sulfate;
bucket of water.

Everything is mixed and processed before flowering and after harvesting the berries.

When the garlic arrows appear (0.5 kg), they are broken out, cut, and poured hot water(3 l), infuse for two days. By diluting with water, bring the volume to 10 liters and water the strawberries.

Brown spot

It appears as light dotted spots with a dark border, progresses with high humidity, starting with old leaves.

If a disease is detected, they should be cut out immediately. Traditional methods the struggles are:

These solutions should be sprayed on the leaves and soil.

White spot

The disease virus penetrates the leaf plate and actively develops with excess moisture. If small white spots appear, you should immediately remove the mulch, if any, the tendrils, all old leaves and give potassium fertilizer. You can spray with ash or iodine solution.

Fusarium wilt

The disease most often manifests itself on weakened bushes, with sudden temperature fluctuations, lack of minerals. First, the root is affected and only then the leaves - they wither, dry out and die.

Wilting strawberry bush

Since symptoms can be detected when the root is already diseased, the plant is removed and burned. Nearby bushes and soil are treated for prevention with iodine, ash or garlic solution.

Crop rotation helps prevent fusurium and verticillium wilt, as well as fungal infections and rot.

In addition, you need to remember that strawberries do not like low-lying areas, thick bushes, excess nitrogen and moisture. Fruits best on southern slopes.

Strawberry cycle in the garden

If it is easy enough to get rid of pests, then bacterial diseases and all kinds of rot - much more complicated. Crop rotation when planting a plantation significantly increases the chances of having time to escape viruses. Since strawberries bear fruit well without rejuvenating measures for only three years, four-year-old bushes should be removed and burned after harvesting.

Considering that best predecessors strawberries are garlic and onions, berries are laid as follows:

Do you follow the rules of crop rotation when growing strawberries?

YesNo

0 ridge – winter garlic;
1 ridge – strawberries of the 1st year of fruiting;
2nd ridge – strawberries of the 2nd year of fruiting;
3rd row – strawberries of the 3rd year of fruiting;
4th row - strawberries of the 4th year of fruiting.

(The ridges are taken conditionally - it can be one hundred square meters or a hectare).

At the end of July - beginning of August, the garlic is harvested, the zero bed is filled with fertilizers and dug up. Fresh rosettes taken from two-year-old bushes are placed on it.

The rosettes for planting are those that are located first to the mother bush. As a last resort, if there is a shortage of material, you can take the second one.

The fourth ridge is cleared (the old bushes are burned). Winter garlic is planted on it in the fall.

Next year the strawberry looks like this:

on the zero ridge - bushes 1 year old;
on the first - bushes 2 years old;
on the second - bushes 3 years old;
on the third - bushes 4 years old;
on the fourth - garlic.

Now in August the third ridge will be vacated, the garlic will “move” onto it, and new rosettes will be placed in its place. Thus, the strawberry plant can constantly occupy the same part of the plot, but if desired, it can “walk” throughout the entire garden.

The main thing is that its predecessors are not tomatoes and potatoes, since they have the same diseases as strawberries.

Properly planned crop rotation allows you to obtain stable harvests from year to year.

Winter shelters for berries

If bushes of the second, third and fourth years of life can winter without shelter (provided there is sufficient snow cover), then the new plantings need to be insulated. It is also necessary to insure rare varieties and new products, the endurance of which is still unknown.

To prevent plants from rotting away, they need to be covered after the daytime temperature reaches sub-zero temperatures. Usually this is the end of October - beginning of November, plus or minus ten days. You can cover:

spruce branches;
dry leaves (from the forest);
stalks of sunflower, corn, reeds;
white non-woven material.

Covering a young strawberry bush with spruce branches

In addition, shields are installed near the ridges perpendicular to the prevailing winds for snow retention.

If you carry out all the activities for processing strawberries after harvesting: properly trim them, fertilize them, water them and cover them, then they will “thank” the gardener with large, aromatic berries in large quantities.

You probably won’t find a gardener who doesn’t grow strawberries in his garden. After all, both children and adults love her. Fragrant juicy berries are not only tasty, but also very healthy, as they are rich in vitamins and minerals.

That is why everyone who grows it wants to get a rich harvest. But to achieve this, you need to care for strawberries not only when they bloom and bear fruit. Caring for strawberries after harvest is of great importance. This is directly related to the laying of future berries, so experienced gardeners pay special attention to strawberries during this period.

The berries have been picked - why do we need care now?

Some people believe that regular autumn harvesting is sufficient for strawberries. But the thing is that strawberries stop bearing fruit very early, and there is still a lot of time left until autumn. Over the summer, the beds can become so overgrown with weeds that autumn harvesting will be very difficult, which is why caring for strawberries after harvest is required.

In addition, bushes that have finished bearing fruit must again replenish their strength, accumulating them for the next season, which will be almost impossible to do in the vicinity of weeds.

Among other things, it is at this time that strawberries begin to form young leaves and form flower buds again. Numerous mustaches appear, which also weaken the mother bush if they are not trimmed in time. Against the background of this process, the old foliage slowly dies off, preventing the new one from developing normally.

Already all these factors indicate that caring for strawberries after harvest is necessary. But that's not all.

Various pests and pathogens that have accumulated on old leaves over the season try to move to new young leaves. And they may be quite enough. After all, everyone knows that during fruiting it is not recommended to weed strawberries, much less treat them with chemicals.

So, in addition to the accumulated dying old leaves, it is also necessary to loosen the row spaces. Since strawberry roots are already shallow, the resulting adventitious roots may even end up on the surface of dense soil. And this is just at the moment when strawberries really need extra nutrition.

In fact, it turns out that fertilizing carried out in the fall is still far away, there are not enough nutrients in the soil, and strawberries remain on a starvation diet. But as already mentioned, the better it gets stronger and lays more flower buds, the more berries can be collected next year. Here are other reasons why strawberries need to be processed after harvest.

What measures should be taken with strawberries after harvesting?

Based on the above, there is a need to carry out complex measures, which will consist of proper care for plants.

It is as follows:

trimming old leaves and removing whiskers;
destroying weeds and loosening the soil;
timely watering;
treatment against pests and diseases;
feeding

Trimming old leaves or mowing?

Many people ask whether strawberries are mowed after harvest. In most cases, yes. Because thanks to this, strawberries can be freed from old leaves and the way can be opened for new ones, which just during this period begin to grow. You just have to do this very carefully.

This procedure should begin when at least a week has passed after picking the strawberries. The leaves are mowed at a height of 7-8 cm so as not to damage the growing points, after which they are removed with a rake.

Within a few days, the strawberry bushes will begin to be covered with young leaves, and soon the bed will take on its original appearance.

If you are not a fan of mowing and are wondering when to prune strawberries after harvesting, then you can also do this after 7-10 days.

Old leaves are cut to the same height without affecting the growth point. Each bush is treated this way. This method is suitable when you need to trim strawberries after harvesting in a small area.

In addition to young leaves in the summer, strawberries begin to throw out mustaches. If you want to propagate it, then you can dig in some whiskers. The rest should be gotten rid of, since they take a lot of energy from the plants.

How to tidy up your garden beds?

After you have renewed your strawberries after harvesting, what to do next? Of course, tidy up the beds.

Destroy all the weeds that managed to occupy it during ripening, go through the rake again, removing the remaining leaves, and you can start hilling each plant with a hoe. During this period, the roots of some bushes begin to protrude, which leads to their drying out, and the plants cannot grow normally. This is why hilling is necessary. Just be careful not to cover the heart with soil.

After this, all that remains is to loosen the row spacing well.

Watering strawberries

Caring for strawberries after harvesting requires mandatory watering. Because the soil in the beds must be well moistened. It should be watered abundantly, but infrequently, taking into account weather conditions. To retain moisture, the soil must be mulched, for which peat is suitable. Do not allow a crust to form after watering. Therefore, you need to loosen the soil around each bush and between the rows.

Spraying strawberries

The summer period, when the berries are picked, is the most best time to improve the health of plants. Treatment of strawberries after harvest against diseases is carried out with various preparations.

Which one to use depends on various diseases plants identified by their appearance:

If damage to young leaves appears, then the earthen mite is to blame. Spraying with colloidal sulfur diluted with water or preparations such as Fitoverm, Actellik and Titovit Jet can help get rid of it;
the presence of brown spots on the leaves indicates viral diseases. In this case, they are treated with Bordeaux mixture;
if rotting of the berries was observed, then the plants were affected by a fungus - gray rot. To eliminate it, you need to spray the bushes with a solution of a popular fungicide - copper oxychloride.

Processing strawberries after harvest also involves prevention.

Firstly, the affected leaves must be removed immediately, carefully inspecting the bushes.

And secondly, manganese is a reliable assistant in this case. Dilute a weak solution and not only spray the bushes with it, but also water the soil in the garden bed.

Fertilizing strawberries

Don’t know what to feed your strawberries after harvesting, and why do it? First of all, so that next year it bears fruit well. After all, as mentioned above, it is at this time that flower buds are formed, which determine the next harvest.

Complex fertilizers produced specifically for strawberries, such as Rubin, Ryazanochka or Agricola, are perfect for summer feeding. They must be added according to the instructions, combining this procedure with watering and loosening the soil.

If you are interested in what else to feed strawberries after harvesting, then you can also use humus, wood ash or ammophoska for this purpose.

Preparing for winter

This is not a difficult task, but it is mandatory, since next year’s harvest will depend on this stage.

You have already figured out how much attention strawberries require after harvest, and what to do with them throughout the summer. It remains to figure out how to prepare it for winter.

Don't be surprised, but you've already done some of this preparation. After all best protection from winter cold - these are healthy, overgrown leaves and the absence of pests. So it’s not in vain that you tried all summer, putting the bushes in order, feeding them and treating them with remedies for diseases, and also removing weeds and loosening the beds.

Now all you have to do is mulch the plantings with sawdust or peat in October, making a layer no more than 5 cm, and in November cover them with spruce branches or raspberry branches so that snow will linger on them later. This will be the best shelter for strawberries.

In June, berries begin to ripen in the garden beds of any experienced gardener. Strawberries are one of the first to please their owner with juicy, ripe and aromatic fruits.

In fact, in the specialized literature there is no name “strawberry”, because this berry is called “musk strawberry”. Yes, strawberries really belong to the strawberry genus, and they got their name “strawberry” from the word “club,” which means “round.”

There is probably not a single person indifferent to this berry. Unless allergy sufferers avoid it. The cost of strawberries in stores is often very high, so many people decide to grow this beauty in their summer cottage. True, not many people know about the features of planting, growing and feeding it.

Basic rules

Strawberries love black soil and grow and bear fruit rather poorly on sandy soil. Accordingly, caring for strawberries that grow in sandy soils will be more painstaking.

This berry is quite finicky, so improper care of it is fraught with sad consequences in the form of a decrease in yield or its complete absence. The groundwater level in the area where the berries are planted must be at least 60 cm.

Strawberries are being planted early spring, in early April, or at the end of August and beginning of September.

Before planting, the ground is inspected for the presence of larvae, all last year’s foliage is removed and the soil is dug to a depth of 30 cm. If necessary, treated with an ammonia solution.

Before purchasing seedlings, you need to pay attention to the root system. Correctly selected seedlings increase the likelihood of obtaining a large and tasty harvest of berries.

Basic rules

After picking the berries, novice amateur gardeners do not know how to care for strawberries in the fall, and therefore do not particularly care about the plant that brought the harvest, leaving worries about it until the spring. Experts advise that in the next 3 months after fruiting, especially in August, you take time to care for strawberries, because it is in August that strawberries begin to lay buds for the next season’s crop.

The second half of July, August and the end of September is the time when strawberries require extra work from the gardener, namely:

cleaning the site and planting beds;
feeding;
removing old mulch;
weeding;
loosening and hilling;
mowing dried leaves and mustaches;
systematic watering.

After the crop has borne fruit, it is necessary to clear the soil under the strawberries from plant debris, as well as mulch. Insects and disease carriers can accumulate in it. After fruiting, the soil becomes significantly compacted, so in order for air to flow to the roots, you need to make the soil looser with the help of garden tools, but carefully, without touching the roots of the plant. Hilling is also performed by covering the growing new roots with soil.

Trimming

Mowing is not a mandatory procedure, but if there is a suspicion that the plant is sick, mowing such a specimen is simply necessary so that the rest of the bushes do not become infected.

Leaves need to be cut only in dry weather, no later than the beginning of August, otherwise the buds on the plant will not have time to develop. Cutting is done in the morning or evening. Do not pick off unusable leaves with your hands. The petioles are left up to 6 cm long.

When pruning old bushes, you should always start with young shoots, gradually moving to older ones. This method will not allow diseases to be transferred from old plants to young and healthy ones.

If you need to trim most of the plants, then the speed of processing the bushes can be increased by using a garden trimmer.

Feeding after removing the leaves is necessary so that new shoots have time to grow before the cold weather. The procedure is performed with sharp scissors and pruners. The soil is cultivated and mulched. If the gardener’s plans include the process of complete rejuvenation of the bushes, then they carry out complete pruning to the ground.

Young bushes are never pruned. Seedlings that are 1-2 years old are partially pruned to remove only dry leaves.

Watering

It is necessary to water strawberries according to the rules, otherwise you can’t count on the appearance of delicious berries on the branches of the plant.

Strawberry seedlings do not tolerate dry soil. Before the flowers appear, you need to water the strawberries using the sprinkling method. When color appears, water directly at the roots of the plant, without affecting the flowers and leaves. The drip irrigation system is the most popular among gardeners.

After winter, an adult plant begins to be watered as soon as the snow melts, at the end of April. Watering is carried out once every 5-6 days, the water temperature should not be lower than +15 degrees. Water the strawberries early in the morning so that the soil dries out before evening.

Weeds take water from the crop, so you should carefully weed the beds with berries.

In dry weather, it is necessary to provide strawberries with additional water at the rate of 2 buckets per 1 square meter. m beds. In rainy weather, strawberries are not watered.

Soil care

Weeds are the main reason why strawberries lack minerals and beneficial microelements. Therefore, you need to weed strawberries at least 7 times during the summer.

In autumn, it is better not to weed the beds. By accidentally damaging the root system in the fall, you can ruin an entire bush, since the root system will not have time to recover before the cold weather. It is recommended to loosen the soil to a depth of 10 cm after weeding.

Experts advise using herbicides to control weeds. The beds should be treated 10-14 days before planting the crop. To enrich the soil, it is sometimes planted with buckwheat. It also works against plant debris.

How to plant?

This finicky berry cannot grow for more than 4 years in one place. It needs to be replanted.

Strawberries are most often planted in a row manner. There are several variations. There are ridges:

one-liners;
two-line;
three-line.

In a single-row ridge, the distance between seedlings is 15-20 cm, between ridges – 70 cm. In a double-row ridge, 30 cm between plants and 60 cm between ridges. The distance between three-line ridges is 90 cm, between seedlings – 15-20 cm.

More often than others, double-line ridges are used. Mark the ground using a tape measure and pegs. Having outlined the planting sites, make holes about 15 cm deep. Water is poured into them, and then strawberries are planted. The seedlings are strengthened with dry soil. It is important that the growing point of the strawberry is at ground level. If you plant it lower, the plant may rot, and if you plant it higher, it will freeze. The seedling needs to be watered for the first 10 days until it takes root.

Top dressing

After picking the berries, strawberries need nitrogen to produce new leaves, so at this time they need to be fed with mineral nitrogen fertilizers, such as nitroammofoska and ammophoska.

When diluting mineral fertilizer, you should follow the proportions - 2 tablespoons (20 g) per bucket of water (10 liters). If nitrophosk fertilizer is used, it is recommended to also add 200 g of wood ash to the solution, since it contains many essential microelements. Nitrophoska is the most safe fertilizer, because its use does not provoke the accumulation of nitrates in the soil and fruits of plants.

You should always carefully study the instructions and composition of fertilizers, and, if possible, avoid the use of fertilizers containing chlorine.

Ammofoska is diluted at the rate of 15-20 g per bucket of water. It is not forbidden to use fertilizer “dry”, scattering 20 g per 1 square meter. m beds. At the end, you need to water the ground with a bucket of water over this area.

In August, you can feed the berries with organic matter. Bird droppings and mullein are best suited for this. It is important to preserve the roots of the plant, and therefore the fertilizer should be diluted in water. The mullein solution is diluted in a ratio of 1:10; it is recommended to infuse it for 24 hours.

Bird droppings are used with water in a ratio of 1:15, avoiding contact with plant leaves.

In the form of mulch, mullein is laid out between the rows. This way you can enrich the earth with minerals for 2-3 years in advance. To improve the quality, the litter is enriched with minerals, for example, ash.

"Ruby";
"Ryazanochka";
"Agricola";
"Fasco"

Another organic fertilizer – slurry – can help the plant stock up on nutrients for the cold period.

1.3 liters are diluted with water (10 l), and then left for 48 hours. 1 liter of this solution is enough for 1 bush. They need to be watered without getting on the leaves. You can repeat this feeding at the end of October after pruning and removing dry leaves.

Strawberries are also fed with wood ash. In dry form, they are scattered around the plant, and in liquid form, they are watered with a solution prepared from 100 g of ash per 10 liters of water. The dosage of this fertilizer is 500 ml per bush.

The nitrogen needed by the plant is also provided in fertilizers such as urea and ammonium nitrate. 10 g of urea are diluted in 10 liters of water and each bush is watered in a volume of 0.5 liters. Similarly, 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate is diluted in a bucket of water and watered 1 liter per plant.

The dry version of this fertilizer in a volume of 100 g is spread over an area of 10 square meters. m, after loosening the soil a little with a rake.

Gardeners who are owners remontant strawberries, must not forget about feeding the plant during the second flowering.

Feed the strawberries mineral fertilizers per 1 sq. m can be in the following composition:

superphosphate – 25 g;
ammonium sulfate – 25 g;
potassium sulfate – 30 g.

If organic fertilizers are available, use a mixture of manure and water in a ratio of 1: 5. This solution in an amount of 10 liters is enough for 1 square meter. m beds. Having collected the second harvest, the strawberries are fed with bird droppings in a proportion of 1:15 with water. 5 liters of this solution are poured onto 1 square meter. m of soil.

Preparing for winter

When planting strawberries in the fall, you need to make sure that the seedlings do not freeze. Many people debate whether there is any point in additional cover. Snow is the best “clothing” for plants. But nowadays in middle lane Often in the middle of winter, false thaws may occur, followed by bitter frost. The snow begins to melt, revealing the plants, and then sub-zero temperatures set in, and the strawberries have a hard time.

You need to guess right time for shelter, since by performing this procedure too early, a cultural debate will occur. Accordingly, strawberries are covered when the temperature drops below 0 degrees both day and night during the week. Before doing this, you should thoroughly weed the beds and collect all plant debris. Loosening the soil will not be superfluous, but on the contrary, it will help the strawberries to breathe if the air temperature begins to rise.

It is necessary to remove the mustache if further planting of this crop is not intended. They take on the bulk of the nutrients and take them from the main bush of the plant.

Under no circumstances should you cover strawberries if it rained the day before. You need to wait until the soil dries and then begin the procedure. You can cover strawberries with straw, dry leaves in combination with spruce branches, and sawdust. Spruce branches are also used in combination with hay so that it does not fly away from gusty winds.

If you don’t want to bother yourself with unnecessary red tape, you can buy special agrofibre for covering the crop at any garden store. It protects strawberries from frost, allows them to breathe and allows the sun's rays to pass through.

Agrofibre, like other covering materials, has many analogues, for example, such as:

agril;
lutrasil;
agrospan;
spanboard;
spantex;
wrap

Choosing the right place to plant strawberries is already half the battle. The crop grows and bears fruit best in chernozem with a soil acidity of 5-6.5 pH. The slope of the beds is expected to be no more than 5%. If there is a slope, then it should not be directed to the south, otherwise in the spring the snow will melt away from the strawberry field too quickly and expose the strawberries too early.

Agricultural technology for growing berries involves thorough soil preparation. Nutrients are introduced into it in advance, which will enrich it and provide all the microelements to the planted crop.

Excess moisture in the area can be reduced by installing drainage. Large stagnation of water can be removed by laying drainage pipes at a depth of up to 40 cm. If the humidity is moderate, it is necessary to dig several drainage grooves up to 30 cm deep, where water will drain from the beds.

When planting, experienced gardeners choose only quality varieties with nice healthy leaves. Before planting a seedling in a hole, its roots are dipped in a solution of potassium permanganate. Do not press down the soil of the seedlings too much. The soil should be loose and breathable.

Pests and diseases are the reason why a gardener may lose not only berries, but also plants. Experienced gardeners notice problems in the health of a crop at the first sign and quickly make decisions to combat this or that disease.

Experts consider autumn the best period for controlling strawberry pests. There are not many of them, but they also poison the life of strawberries and deprive gardeners of the opportunity to reap a rich harvest. Treatment of plants begins immediately after fruiting.

Main berry pests:

slugs and snails– affects the fruits of the plant;
nematodes– cause darkening of the leaves and cause a lack of harvest;
transparent tick– causes yellowing of leaves and reduction in harvest volume.

Strawberries are also attacked by weevils, ants, strawberry beetles and whiteflies.

The strawberry or transparent mite develops in a humid environment. It feeds mainly on the juice of strawberry leaves. They look like small yellowish spots. The yield of infected bushes decreases.

Preparations for removing transparent mites, which are used to treat strawberries 2 weeks before flowering, as well as after fruiting, are as follows:

"Karbofos";
"Inta-vir";
"Aktellik";
"Sherpa".

The affected bushes are generously sprayed with a stream of diluted preparation. If the strawberries are severely damaged by pests, they are mowed down. Strawberry beds that have already been attacked by ticks should be well weeded, as ticks can collect in the weeds.

The weevil is a beetle that also preys on strawberry leaves. He lays the larvae in flower buds, where they pupate. Weevils can attack both strawberries and raspberries, so it is advisable not to plant strawberry bushes next to raspberries so that the beetles do not migrate from one crop to another.

Strawberries are sprayed with insecticides (Karbofos, Iskra, Inta-Vir, Kinmiks) in the spring when the buds open, and also 10 days before flowering. Heavy artillery is also thrown into the fight against the beetle in the form of biological preparations, such as:

"Nemabakt";
"Antonem."

There are many folk remedies that are also very effective against pests.

Take 40 g of birch tar into a bucket of water and rub soap into the bucket, mix, and spray the crop with this solution in the morning, preferably when the weather is expected to be dry.
Ash helps repel beetles, so it is poured into the middle of the bush during the flowering period.
Baking soda also helps during the flowering period of strawberries. Take 20 g of soda in a bucket of water and treat the leaves with this solution.
In the evening, newspapers are spread on the ground under the strawberry bushes. Early in the morning, beetles are shaken off the plants just at a time when they are inactive. Newspapers are collected and liquidated. A very original method that really works.

Folk remedies They are effective when repeated systematically, since they are quickly washed off with the first rain.

Strawberries, or more precisely, the roots of the plant, are a favorite treat for the larvae of the cockchafer, which live and develop in the soil for several years.

Preparations for protection against larvae are as follows:

"Zemlin";
"Vallar";
"Initiative";
"Anti-Khrushch."

These medications are dug directly into the soil to a depth of 10 cm.

Folk remedies are also used to help fight larvae.

Slugs are another type of strawberry pest that can be very difficult to control. They reach a length of 150 mm. During the season, 2 generations of slugs are born. They eat through the stems, buds and berries of the crop, leaving a silvery mucus on it. Their activity begins at night. In addition to damaging the plant, they can also carry fungal diseases.

The last remedy is the safest of all those presented.

Folk remedies are also used to exterminate slug colonies:

Jars of cornmeal, which is poisonous to slugs, are placed between the rows;
100 g of mustard powder is diluted in 1 liter of water and watered on the soil under the strawberries;
10 ml of brilliant green is diluted in a bucket of water and watered between the rows of the crop;
wet rags, cabbage leaves and boards are scattered between the beds - in the morning colonies of slugs collect in this garbage, which are successfully destroyed.

Nematodes are cylindrical worms that infect the leaves, fruits and buds of strawberries.

A gardener may notice a lag in the development of some nematode-infected bushes. The berries on such bushes are small, the leaves are eaten, differ in color and are curled. Nematodes attack strawberries at the beginning of summer, so during this period you need to carefully monitor any changes that occur.

The appearance of nematodes can be prevented through prophylaxis. Before planting, strawberry seedlings are disinfected in hot water (50 degrees) for 15 minutes. Do not forget about systematic weeding.

Spraying preparations help resist the pest:

"Karbofos";
"Fufan";
"Kemifos";
"Bi-58 new";
"Rogor."

Biological preparations are also used, which are treated twice at weekly intervals:

"Lepidocide";
"Bitoxibacillin."

Knowledgeable gardeners catch leaf rollers using jars of kvass or fermented jam, which are placed near the beds.

The plant is also treated with tobacco infusion. 0.5 kg of tobacco dust is poured into a bucket of hot water, adding 50 g of soap as an adhesive. The spraying procedure with this solution is carried out very carefully, since it can cause severe irritation if it comes into contact with the skin.

Powdery mildew- a common disease when the leaves become covered with a grayish coating, and mold appears on the berries. To avoid this, the crop is sprayed with soda ash before flowering.
Late blight wilt- a disease that inhibits plant growth. When the first signs appear, such a plant is eliminated.
Brown spot – fungal disease, which affects strawberries in the form of brown spots on the foliage and fruits of the plant. A fairly persistent fungus that goes dormant in winter, and by spring begins its pest activity again.
Gray rot– a disease that impairs the taste and appearance of berries. The cause of the disease is the fungi sclerotia and conidia, which appear in moist soil.

Experienced gardeners are very successful in fighting these diseases and pests, because an attentive strawberry owner will immediately notice problems and changes occurring with the plant.

In pest control they use:

"Karbofos"– against mites after fruiting;
"Aktar"– against weevils and whiteflies;
soda- against ants.

Soda ash is used in the fight against powdery mildew. For the solution, take 5 tablespoons of soda, add 5 tablespoons of grated laundry soap and fill everything with a bucket of water. You need to mix everything and spray the affected strawberry bushes with this solution once a week. Strawberries are processed twice - at the beginning and at the end of the summer period.

Experienced gardeners recommend using the excellent preparation “Switch”. It is very effective in the fight not only against gray rot, but also against brown spot; it also treats powdery mildew and fusarium. Treatment is carried out before and after the appearance of flowers on the crop.

Alirin-B tablets must be mixed with water in the proportions indicated in the annotation. Spraying is carried out twice before the flowers appear and twice after flowering.

"Horus" is not a favorite among gardeners, but some praise the product for its lack of phytotoxins and for the length of time it stays on the plant (the product is indelible by rain).

"Teldor" is a drug that forms a film on the crop, preserving strawberry fruits.

Attentiveness should come first for a gardener. You need to be especially vigilant with gray rot:

during constant rains;
during active dew fall;
when air humidity rises;
during decline temperature regime below +15 degrees;
during a period of rapid planting growth.

Common Mistakes

Beginning gardeners very often when growing this crop make the following mistakes.

Plant seedlings with a lot of leaves. It is correct to leave two or three healthy leaves on the seedlings so that they do not dry out the seedlings.
Do not cut off the roots when planting. It is easier to distribute small roots up to 10 cm in the hole. Long roots will bend, which will lead to their death.
There is no “bath day” before boarding. Before planting, seedlings must be lowered for 15 minutes in hot water to prevent crop diseases.
Strawberries are not treated with chemicals. Lack of treatment has an adverse effect on the crop, which is quite picky and may encounter a disease or pest at any time. Proper processing crops before flowering and after fruiting will not harm humans and will protect the plant from “unexpected guests” and other ailments.

To learn how to care for strawberries after fruiting, see the following video.

Wonderful strawberry ( garden strawberries) - both very tasty and very healthy. That is why, in addition to food, it is actively used for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. However, its nature is capricious and requires careful and patient care, which is not always compensated by a generous harvest. In order to have a good harvest of garden strawberries next season, you need to lay its foundation this year. It is especially important to carry out a number of measures to care for strawberries after fruiting and harvesting, in particular, to properly prune strawberry bushes.

Caring for strawberries after fruiting and harvesting in July: main activities

After fruiting and harvesting, in mid-summer (July), strawberries need proper care.

Perhaps the most important thing at this time, which, in fact, is what this material is devoted to, is to prune the strawberry bushes after they bear fruit.

Positive experience shows that after the summer pruning of strawberries has been completed, it is optimally good weed the beds from weeds and loosen the soil. Moreover, you need to loosen near the bushes shallowly, so as not to touch the root system, which is located very close to the surface. Next, you should water abundantly, and then apply light nitrogen fertilizing. A little later (maybe in a day or two, or closer to autumn) feed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers, and then treat the bushes against diseases and pests (or do this at the end of summer).

Thus, the algorithm for caring for strawberries in the summer, after harvest, consists of the following stages:

trim leaves, peduncles and tendrils;
perform weeding and loosening of the soil;
water generously;
feed with nitrogen, and a little later with potassium and phosphorus (or immediately after pruning with complex mineral fertilizer);
carry out treatment against diseases and pests (you can immediately after pruning, or a little later - in August).

By the way! To avoid tedious weeding and loosening every year, simply mulch the strawberries or plant them under black film. Read about how to do this

Video: caring for strawberries after harvest: pruning, removing tendrils, weeding and loosening, fertilizing

Pruning strawberries after harvest

When to prune

After fruiting is completely over and you have harvested the entire crop, it is recommended to cut off some of the strawberry leaves, its flower stalks and the resulting rosettes.

As for the timing, as a rule, it falls in the second half of July.

How to trim correctly: which leaves to remove and which to leave

Recommendation ! It is recommended to carry out pruning of strawberries exclusively with gardening gloves and only with the help ofacute scissors or pruning shears. Only no need to cut off leaves and mustache hands, since they are quite strong and sit firmly in the ground, and you simply you can pull out part of the bush.

Next, look at the condition of the bush: if there is leaves with signs of disease(dotted or speckled, all spotted), old and withered, then they are also needed trim, A healthy and young - leave.

Most often, strawberries, namely their leaf apparatus, are affected.

By the way! Don't forget to remove the fruiting ones too. flower stalks.

Video: pruning strawberries after fruiting

It would be quite logical to note that due to such pruning, the strawberry bush will get rid of some of the spores of pathogens and pests, and will also be better ventilated and will not sour during the autumn rains.

Advice! All cut strawberry leaves are better burn (or take outside the site) to avoid the spread of various diseases, especially if they show obvious signs of disease and the presence of pests.

And in no case are they such leaves cannot be composted!

There is a lot of controversy about whether it is possible to remove all strawberry leaves after fruiting, because this is the easiest way to do it.

Worth knowing! The fact is that if you cut off the entire bush, it will quickly become depleted and strawberries will spend all their energy restoring green mass instead of laying flower (fruit) buds for next year and storing nutrients before wintering.

However, you must understand that in any case you will have to remove part of the green mass, which means that in the future you will have to help the plant recover, that is, feed it - give it the whole complex of macro- and microelements.

Pay attention! But it makes sense to completely remove garden strawberries, which are very damaged by diseases and pests, in order to plant a new strawberry plantation next year.

However, if you really feel sorry for her, then without fail it will be enough remove all mulch(of course, if it has been mulched), and then carefully treated against diseases and pests.

Mustache trimming

Necessity trim your mustache strawberries don't just happen. She directly depends, do you plan to replant them? to expand your strawberry beds.

Advice! It is in the first year after fruiting (in the second year of life of the rosette after overwintering) that the mustache should be taken for propagation, since such a dependence manifests itself - the older the bush, the less potential it has for reproduction and the weaker the mustache it will produce.

More often mustaches are regularly removed as they grow. But it is optimal to do this before flowering, after fruiting and harvesting, as well as at the end of the summer season. In fact, they are very convenient to remove when you once again loosen or weed the beds.

Pay attention! Removing the whiskers also further stimulates the formation of future strawberry flower buds.

Video: how and when to remove mustaches from strawberry bushes

Fertilizing strawberries after fruiting

After pruning the strawberry bush, it is advisable to carry out intensive feeding of the weakened plant, since during this period the garden strawberry is under quite a lot of stress and you need to help form its new leaf apparatus.

As a rule, immediately after trimming the leaves, it is recommended to give nitrogen fertilizer, and after a few days (7-10) or closer to autumn - potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

By the way! More information about autumn feeding of strawberries after fruiting you can find .

Strawberry bushes can be watered as nitrogen fertilizermullein solution, diluted in a ratio of 1 to 10, orpoultry (chicken) droppings, which should be infused for 24 hours, and the concentration should be half as much - 1 to 20. It’s also perfectgreen manure(3-4 days herbal infusion, best nettle).

Video: feeding strawberries after harvest

After this (best after a few 7-10 days, although it is possible at the end of summer), you definitely need to give the plant potassium, for example, dust the beds (or make an infusion or solution) or use “ Potassium humate" with trace elements, the most common potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate).

It is also very advisable to use phosphorus (for example,).

Pay attention! You need to feed only on damp soil and under the bush (without getting on the leaves), so be sure to water the strawberries before feeding plain water, or fertilize after rain.

However, as an option, you can immediately after trimming the strawberry bushes (and then again after 7-10 days), feed the plant instant complex fertilizer with microelements(such as Kristalon, Master, Plantafol, Kemira), in which equal amount of macronutrients(for example, 15:15:15 or 18:18:18).

Important! If, after heavy feeding, small flowers begin to appear on the bushes, they need to be promptly removed, because they will only weaken the plant, and they will no longer be of any use.

Treatment of strawberries after harvest from diseases and pests

Or immediately after feeding, or already in second half of August worth doing treatment of strawberries from diseases and pests.

For pests, especially against ticks, it is best to use Fitoverm (Actofit), Bitoxibacillin, Vertimek, Masai.
For strawberry diseases, especially against brown spot - Horus (for all spots), Topaz (for powdery mildew), .

By the way! In general, you can make a tank mixture (from 2-3 selected products) by first dissolving each drug separately in water (according to the instructions), and then pour the resulting solutions into a common container (sprayer).

Remember! If after mixing the preparations no sediment forms, they can be used in a tank mixture.

Samu processing it is advisable to carry out in calm weather, while carefully You need to spray not only the bushes themselves, but also mulch(if your bushes are mulched). After 2 weeks it is advisable to repeat.

However, if strawberry this season was very heavily affected by diseases and pests, then it is recommended remove all old mulch, and then carefully treat against diseases and pests.

A folk remedy for treating strawberry bushes against diseases is to use brilliant green, diluted in water in a proportion of 4-5 drops per 1 liter of water. According to some summer residents, brilliant green is an excellent antiseptic that helps in the fight against gray mold, powdery mildew and other diseases.

Features of caring for remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberries are able to bear fruit all summer (hence its name), so traditional summer pruning for remontant bushes is not done. Complete or even partial pruning of leaves also noticeably weakens the plant, even if you feed it well afterwards.

Another thing is that it is necessary periodically inspect the bushes for diseased and dry leaves, in other words, you need do selective pruning, including after each fruiting and harvesting of strawberries.

But as for mustache, then them still needs to be trimmed, unless, of course, you need them for reproduction.

Video: features of caring for remontant strawberries

Thus, if you properly care for strawberries in the summer, following all the tips and recommendations, namely, correctly pruning the bushes after fruiting and harvesting, and also give good feeding, treat it against diseases and pests, then next year you will definitely have bountiful harvest tasty and ripe berries.

Video: caring for strawberries after fruiting from A to Z